Ava Monroe
Gel manicures are a popular choice for many due to their long-lasting finish, resistance to chipping and fading, and beautiful appearance. However, gel nail polish can sometimes shrink, causing frustration for those who have paid for a professional manicure or applied it themselves. There are several reasons why gel nails may shrink, including the use of certain soaps, incorrect preparation techniques, and the use of primer. Understanding these factors can help prevent gel nail shrinkage and ensure a smooth and even finish.
Characteristics and reasons for gel nail shrinkage
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Buffing nails | Creates bumps and holes in the top coat |
| Washing hands with soap before application | Conditioning agents in soap create separation and holes in the gel |
| Using acetone to prep nails | Causes air bubbles and heat spikes |
| Not curing nails for the full cure time | Gel polish does not set properly |
| Not using a thin base coat | Gel polish does not set properly |
| Not prepping nails correctly | Gel polish may not dry |
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What You'll Learn
Washing hands with moisturising soap before a gel manicure
It is recommended that clients wash their hands with non-moisturising soap and water before a gel manicure. This is because most soaps have oils or conditioning agents that can work against the gel, causing separation or holes in the gel top coat. After washing, hands should be rinsed and dried thoroughly.
Washing hands with soap and water is an important step in the manicure process for hygiene and safety reasons. It is also essential to wash hands before massaging in a nail oil, as the use of nail oils can encourage allergies if there is any trace of monomers on the skin. While hand sanitiser is useful for killing viruses, it does not wash away debris, so it is no substitute for proper hand washing.
However, it is important to note that gel manicures can be tough on nails, causing brittleness, peeling and cracking. Repeated use can also increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, it is recommended that gel manicures are reserved for special occasions only.
To keep nails healthy before, during and after a gel manicure, dermatologists recommend being proactive and asking your manicurist if their tools are sterilised and cleaned after each client. It is also important to avoid picking at gel nail polish when it starts to come off. Instead, make an appointment to have it removed by your manicurist, and only soak your fingertips in acetone to protect the surrounding skin.
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Using acetone to prep nails
Acetone is a natural compound found in low concentrations in our bodies. It is a common staple in nail care, especially in nail prep routines. Its primary role in nail prep is as a dehydrator, removing moisture from the nail plate's surface temporarily. This quality is essential for preparing nails for treatments like polish or artificial nails, ensuring better adhesion and longevity of the nail product.
When used as directed, acetone is a safe and effective tool in nail care. Its ability to temporarily dehydrate the nail plate without causing long-term damage is invaluable in professional nail treatments.
However, there are misconceptions regarding its effects on natural nails. For instance, using a quick acetone swipe to prep the nail before the gel top coat can eat away at the acrylic underneath and cause little air bubbles or heat spikes. Therefore, it is important to understand its properties and correct usage.
To use acetone to prep nails, start by washing your hands and then gathering your supplies. Lay down a protective towel, paper, or cloth over your workspace to protect surfaces and for easy manicure debris clean-up. Then, use a cotton ball or pad soaked in acetone to wipe each nail, including the surrounding skin up to the first knuckle. This will help to temporarily dehydrate the area. Next, prep the cuticle dry and remove shine from the nail. Brush off all dust and wipe the nail clean with a lint-free pad soaked in alcohol. Finally, apply a dehydrator and allow the nail to dry completely before adding any nail polish or gel.
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Buffing nails
If you are applying gel polish, it is recommended not to buff your nails to a shine as this will prevent the polish from lasting as long. Gel polish needs a slightly rough surface to bond to the nail plate properly, so buffing can actually be counterproductive. Instead, you should aim for a gentle buff to create a rough surface for the gel to adhere to.
To buff your nails correctly, you need to use the right tools. A 180-grit file or a 100-120 grit buffer block is ideal. Anything above 180 grit will make your nails too smooth, creating a less-than-ideal surface for gel application. When buffing, hold the buffing side parallel to your nail and stroke it across each nail in an X shape. Avoid buffing side-to-side as this can create heat that dries out and damages your nails.
Buffing your nails once a month is sufficient to maintain their health and shine. Overdoing it can weaken your nails and cause unnecessary damage. So, when incorporating buffing into your nail care routine, be sure to follow the correct techniques and always be gentle with your nails.
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Not curing nails for the full recommended time
Gel nails are prone to shrinking because the gel itself shrinks when cured. Uncured gel can also lead to allergic reactions. Therefore, it is important to cure nails for the full recommended time.
If you are a nail technician, it is paramount to ensure a good cure so that the colour and overlay will last. If the gel polish is applied too thick, the curing time might not be enough to create a full cure, which can lead to peeling. Thinness is key. Apply the first coat of gel polish thinly and set it for the full cure time.
If you are doing your own nails, it is important to invest in a powerful lamp to get a full cure. Cheap mini curing lamps often do not have the power needed to fully cure gel nails. If your gel isn't fully cured, it won't properly adhere to your nail.
To avoid gel nails shrinking, you should also avoid buffing your nails. This can take up to an extra 10 minutes and does not help the gels. You should also avoid washing your hands before applying the gel top coat, as the soap can contain oils or conditioning agents that work against the gel.
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Using primer before applying gel polish
Gel nails can shrink due to several factors, including buffing the nails, washing hands with moisturising soap before the application, and using a quick acetone swipe to prep the nails. To prevent gel nail shrinkage, it is recommended to avoid buffing and ensure the nails are thoroughly cleaned and dried before applying the gel polish. Using a primer before applying gel polish can also help address this issue by improving the adhesion of the gel polish to the nail plate.
A primer is a product used to treat the surface of the nails before applying nail extensions or gel polish. It is designed to improve the adherence of the gel polish to the nail plate, resulting in a longer-lasting manicure. Primers are especially beneficial for individuals who experience chipping and lifting issues with their gel manicures.
There are two main types of primers: acid-free and acid primers. Acid-free primers are the most commonly used type, known for their gentle formula and excellent adhesion properties. On the other hand, acid primers are recommended for individuals with problematic nail plates or specific medical conditions that can affect their nails.
When used correctly, a primer can significantly enhance the durability of a gel manicure. It is applied at the beginning of the manicure process to prepare the nail surface. Primers help remove any remaining oils or grease on the nail plate, ensuring that the base coat adheres properly. Additionally, primers prevent the formation of air bubbles, which can cause lifting and peeling issues.
To use a primer effectively, follow these steps:
- Start with clean and dry nails. Ensure that your client washes their hands with non-moisturising soap and water, then rinses and dries them thoroughly.
- Use a cotton ball soaked in acetone to wipe each nail and the surrounding skin up to the first knuckle. This helps temporarily dehydrate the area and remove any residual oils.
- Push back the cuticles and ensure the nail plate is dry and free of any shine. You can use a nail file or buffer gently to create a rough surface for better adhesion.
- Apply a small amount of primer to each nail, covering the entire nail plate. Allow it to dry completely.
- Continue with the rest of your gel manicure process, starting with the base coat, gel polish application, and curing under a lamp for the recommended time.
By incorporating a primer into your gel nail routine, you can improve the adhesion and longevity of your gel manicure, reducing the chances of shrinkage and lifting issues.
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Frequently asked questions
This could be due to buffing your nails before applying the gel. It is better not to buff your nails as it does not help the gels and takes up extra time.
Washing your hands with soap before applying the gel can cause the gel to shrink. This is because most soaps have oils or conditioning agents that can work against the gel.
You can prevent gel nail shrinkage by following these steps: avoid buffing your nails, wash your hands with non-moisturizing soap, dry your hands, use a non-moisturizing hand sanitizer, wipe each nail with acetone, prep the cuticle dry, remove shine from the nail, brush off dust, wipe clean with a lint-free pad, and apply a dehydrator.
This could be due to improper prep or application of nail enhancements. It is recommended that you avoid using primer before applying gel polish.
