Isla Bennett
Gel nails are a popular choice for those wanting long-lasting colour and shine. However, gel nails are prone to cracking, which can be caused by a variety of factors. From improper removal techniques to thin and uneven application, there are many reasons why your gel nails might be cracking. Read on to learn more about the main causes of gel nail cracking and how to prevent it.
Why do gel nails crack fast?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Thickness of the nail | Thinner nails are more flexible and can bend beyond the flexibility of the gel on top, creating stress fractures. |
| Preparation and application | Applying polish in thicker coats may seem like a strong barrier, but thin and even coats are better at preventing cracks. |
| Nail structure | A nail structure that is too flat will experience cracking in the stress zone and sidewalls. |
| Over-filing | Filing the sidewall structure of the nail during preparation can weaken the nail bed and sidewalls, causing cracks. |
| Improper removal | Any force needed to remove the gel will cause delamination and thin the natural nail. |
| Nail health | Dry or brittle nails can cause cracking. |
| Setting time | If nail polish does not have enough time to set, it can cause cracking. |
| Exposure to water | Since nails are porous, they can absorb water, which expands the nail bed. When the nails dry and contract, the polish can crack. |
| Exposure to chemicals | Exposure to cleaning chemicals or other materials can damage gel polish. |
| Hormonal changes | In pregnant women, hormonal changes can cause the nail to grow faster or the body to reject the substance, leading to cracking and peeling. |
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What You'll Learn
Gel nail polish application
Gel nail polish is a great way to get a long-lasting, flawless manicure. Here is a detailed guide on how to apply gel nail polish like a pro:
Preparation:
Firstly, decide on the nail shape you want and cut, file, and shape your nails accordingly. Unlike acrylic nails, you cannot shape gel nails post-application, so this step is crucial. Next, soak your nails in warm water to soften the cuticles, making them easier to trim. You can also use a waterless sugar scrub to slough off dead, dry cuticles, ensuring you clean your nails with alcohol wipes before polishing. Push back the cuticles to create a larger nail bed for a better base for the gel polish. Buff your nails to ensure the nail plate is free of any dead skin and to remove the nail's natural oils, creating a clean base for the polish. Use a lint-free wipe to clean your nails post-buffing to ensure no dust or skin is left on the nail.
Application:
Start by applying a thin base coat to your dry nails. You can use a regular base coat or a specific primer if your gel polish has one. Dry your nails under an LED lamp for 1-2 minutes or let them air dry for about 10 minutes. Once the base coat is completely dry, apply a thin layer of gel polish. Remember, with gel nail polish, you need less product on the brush compared to regular nail polish. Apply the gel polish in smooth, vertical strips, ensuring you wipe off any polish that gets on your skin. Cure your nails under an LED or UV lamp. Apply a second layer of gel polish, which will look more opaque and colourful. Again, cure your nails under the lamp. You can add a third coat if desired, but it is usually unnecessary.
Topcoat:
Apply a top coat to protect the gel polish and cure your nails under a UV light for 2 minutes or an LED lamp for 30 seconds. You can use a regular or special gel top coat for this step.
Removal:
To remove gel nails, start by filing off the top layer with a nail file. Gently drag the file back and forth until the top layer is no longer shiny. Avoid picking the polish off your nails as this can damage your cuticles and nails. Soak cotton balls in acetone and wrap them around each nail with tin foil. Wash and dry your hands while the gel soaks. Remove the cotton and tin foil and gently push off any remaining gel with an orange stick or cuticle pusher.
Tips:
- Keep nails short to reduce the risk of bumping or flexing, which can add stress to the nail plate and lead to cracks.
- Avoid gels that require 'roughing' the surface of the nail as this can damage the nail.
- Do not proceed with gel application if your nails are damaged or thin. Allow your nails to regrow stronger before applying gel polish.
- Avoid soaking your nails in water before application as this can cause the polish to crack.
- Take your time when applying gel nail polish, ensuring each layer dries properly before adding the next.
- Use thin, even coats of polish to avoid cracks.
- Ensure proper structure and apex placement of the nail to prevent cracking in the stress zone and sidewalls.
- Avoid over-filing the sidewall structure of the nail during preparation as this can weaken the nail bed and cause cracking.
- Moisturise your nails post-application to prevent dryness and brittleness.
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Natural nail strength
To maintain natural nail strength, it is important to address any nutritional deficiencies, chemical exposure, or chronic conditions that may be causing brittle nails. Strategies to strengthen natural nails include taking a biotin supplement, drinking enough water, eating a nutrient-dense and high-protein diet, and using nail lotions and oils. Additionally, it is recommended to give nails a break from polish and allow them to strengthen naturally.
Nail-strengthening treatments containing ingredients like keratin, wheat protein, or calcium can also be effective in improving natural nail strength. These treatments can help seal in moisture, reduce brittleness, and stimulate nail growth. It is important to note that improper removal or over-filing of gel nails can lead to thin and weak natural nails, so it is recommended to seek professional advice for safe removal.
Overall, maintaining natural nail strength is crucial to prevent gel nail cracking. This can be achieved through proper nail care, addressing any underlying health issues, and using effective nail-strengthening treatments.
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Nail maintenance
Gel nails are a popular choice for those seeking a manicure that is long-lasting, chip-free, and fast-drying. While gel manicures offer these benefits, proper nail maintenance is essential to prevent issues such as chipping, lifting, or even infections. Here are some detailed tips for gel nail maintenance:
Pre-Application Care:
Before applying gel nail polish, it is crucial to prepare your nails adequately. Ensure your nails are polish-free, and if you need to remove old gel polish, do so carefully to avoid damaging the nail plate. You can use acetone to remove the gel, but be careful to avoid over-saturating the cotton ball as excess acetone can irritate and dry out your skin. Additionally, avoid using coarse files that can create a rough surface, leading to uneven gel application. Instead, opt for fine files to achieve a smooth finish.
Application Techniques:
When applying gel nail polish, it is recommended to use thin and even coats rather than thicker coats. Proper structure and apex placement of the nail play a vital role in preventing cracking. The gel polish should be blended perfectly flush with the cuticle, with a thinner amount applied towards the free edge. Over-filing the sidewall structure of the nail can weaken the nail bed and contribute to cracking. Additionally, use a buffer block gently to create a textured surface, as gel adheres better to texture and may peel if the finish is too glossy.
Post-Application Care:
After your gel manicure, there are several things to keep in mind to maintain the health and appearance of your nails. Firstly, avoid using your nails as tools; they are not meant for tasks like opening cans or peeling stickers. Treat your nails gently and avoid aggressive typing or similar actions. Keep your nails away from harsh chemicals, especially during cleaning or gardening, and consider wearing gloves to protect them. Water can also be detrimental to gel nails, so minimize their exposure to hot water in showers or when doing dishes. Additionally, avoid excessive hand sanitizer use as it can dry out your nails.
Moisturizing and Hydration:
Maintaining proper hydration is crucial for the health of your nails and cuticles. Apply cuticle oil regularly, as it helps keep them moisturized and prevents peeling. However, when applying lotion or oil, avoid the nail surface itself and focus on the surrounding skin and cuticle area.
Safe Removal and Aftercare:
To protect the integrity of your nail plate, always remove gel nail polish correctly. Improper removal is a significant cause of temporary damage to natural nails, leading to issues like peeling, lifting, and thinning. Gels should come off easily with acetone, and it is recommended to have this done by a professional nail technician who follows the proper removal procedures provided by the gel polish manufacturer. After removing the gel, give your nails a break between applications to let them breathe and regrow stronger.
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Nail products
The natural nail is the base that supports your nail product. If it bends beyond its flexibility, it can create stress fractures. These fractures start off small but can lead to visible cracks or breakages. The thinner the nail, the more flexible it will be.
Improper removal or over-filing are normally the key reasons the nail plate becomes thin. If removal takes place outside of a salon, ensure you know how to remove gel nails safely. Any force needed to remove the gel will cause delamination and thin the natural nail.
If you are dealing with dry or brittle nails, opt for nail-strengthening oils and polishes, and ensure that you are getting enough nutrients and vitamins. Give your nails a break from polish until they are stronger and healthier.
To prevent cracks, it is important to prepare the nail properly. Applying polish in thicker coats may seem like it creates a strong barrier, but thin and even coats of polish are the best way to avoid cracks from appearing. A nail structure that is too flat will experience cracking in the stress zone and sidewalls. Over-filing the sidewall structure of the nail during preparation can also cause gel polish to crack as it can weaken the nail bed and sidewalls.
If you work with different materials or use your hands a lot for work, the gel polish may crack from minor bumps or some materials. Chemicals used for cleaning can also damage the gel polish, so it is important to wear rubber gloves during housework and gardening.
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Repairing cracked nails
If your gel nails are cracking, it may be because your natural nails are thin and weak. The thinner the nail, the more flexible it is, and the more likely it is to bend beyond the flexibility of the gel on top, creating stress fractures. These fractures start off small but can lead to visible cracks or breakages if the nail is repeatedly bent or bumped.
Improper removal or over-filing are usually the reasons why the nail plate becomes thin. Any force used to remove the gel will cause delamination, thinning the natural nail. To avoid this, ensure that you or your client are taught how to remove gel nails safely. A safe soak-off should not be rushed. If you experience lifting, do not pull off the remaining gel, but instead, soak it off or book a removal appointment. Infills can also reduce the risk of damage to the natural nail.
To repair a cracked nail, you can try using a nail repair kit, which usually includes nail repair protection gel, nail glue, a nail file, and nail wraps. Alternatively, you can try using builder gel to fix and seal the crack. However, it is recommended to let the nail grow out a bit before removing the gel. You can also use a teabag as a barrier strip before applying a gel overlay to hold things together and avoid direct contact with the skin and product.
To prevent gel nails from cracking, it is important to prepare and apply the polish correctly. While it may seem like thicker coats create a stronger barrier, thin and even coats of polish are the best way to avoid cracks. Proper structure and apex placement of the nail can also help to avoid gel polish cracking. The nail structure should not be too flat, as this will cause cracking in the stress zone and sidewalls. Instead, gel polish should be blended perfectly flush into the cuticle of the nail, with the majority of the product placed over the stress area and a thinner amount towards the free edge. Over-filing the sidewall structure of the nail during preparation can also cause the gel polish to crack as it weakens the nail bed and sidewalls.
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Frequently asked questions
The thinner the nail, the more flexible it will be. The natural nail is the base that supports your nail product, and if it bends beyond the flexibility of the gel on top, it starts to create stress fractures. These start off small but can lead to visible cracks or even breakages if the nail is repeatedly bent or bumped.
To prevent cracking, ensure that your natural nails are not thin or brittle. You can do this by using nail-strengthening oils and polishes and ensuring that you are getting enough nutrients and vitamins. You can also try to keep your nails short, as this will reduce the risk of them getting bumped or flexed. When applying gel polish, use thin and even coats, and ensure that each layer dries properly before painting the next.
If your gel nails have cracked, you can try to repair them using professional styling products, such as builder gel or acrylic gel. Gently file the nail to remove the cracked tip, then work on the cuticles. Apply a small portion of gel to the crack, spreading it thinly and smoothly with a brush, and then harden it in a lamp. Finally, apply a thin layer of gel to the entire nail.
