Isla Bennett
Gel nail overlays are a great way to strengthen your natural nails and allow them to grow longer. The process involves applying a thin layer of gel over the entire nail and then curing it under a lamp. This adds a layer of strength and structure to your nails, making them less prone to breakage. The gel overlay also provides a smooth base for nail polish, allowing you to change up your nail colour as desired. The type of gel used can vary, with options including soft gel, hard gel, and builder gel, each with its own advantages and removal processes. With proper application and care, gel nail overlays can be a long-lasting and stylish solution for those seeking stronger and longer nails.
Characteristics and Values Table for Applying Gel Overlay Nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To add strength and structure to nails, helping them grow longer and hide imperfections. |
| Application | Apply a thin layer of gel over the entire nail, adding more gel down the center. Cure under a lamp. |
| Removal | Softer gels can be soaked off, while harder gels need to be filed off. |
| Flexibility | More flexible than acrylics, safer for natural nails, and less prone to chipping. |
| Longevity | Lasts for about a month. |
| Maintenance | Gets infilled at each appointment. |
| Types | Soak-off gel, builder gel, hard gel, and Acrygel (a hybrid of gel and acrylic). |
| Top Coat | A thin gel top coat is applied and cured under a light. |
| Nail Polish | Any nail polish can be applied over the gel overlay. |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right gel
If you have strong and healthy natural nails and want a vibrant and long-lasting manicure, gel polish is a good option. It offers a wide range of colours and finishes, allowing you to express your personal style. Gel polish is also known for its durability and chip-free nature. A well-applied gel polish manicure can last up to three weeks without showing signs of wear or chipping.
On the other hand, if you have weak or damaged nails and need extra strength and protection, a gel overlay is a better choice. It enhances the appearance of your natural nails while promoting nail growth and durability. A properly applied gel overlay manicure can last up to two weeks without major chipping or lifting. Unlike extensions, overlays do not add length but instead enhance the natural nail by creating a smooth, protective layer. Overlays are built thicker over the stress points of the nail where it usually breaks. For shorter nails, a 'Builder In A Bottle' product should suffice, while longer nails require a hard gel.
Another option is Acrygel, a modern hybrid made of both gel and acrylic. Acrygel is super strong, like traditional acrylic, but less dehydrating to your natural nails. It can withstand the toughest levels of wear and tear. Soak-off gels are another minimal option, which are quick to apply and suited to those with marginally weak nails that don't normally expose their hands to extensive wear and tear.
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Applying the first layer
Once you have selected the appropriate gel, it is time to apply it to your nails. Start by cleaning your nails and ensuring they are free of any oils or residue. This can be done by wiping your nails with alcohol or acetone. Then, apply a thin layer of the chosen gel to each nail, making sure to cap the free edges. The gel should be applied carefully and evenly, ensuring that it does not pool or clump on the nail surface. After application, cure the gel under a UV or LED lamp according to the manufacturer's instructions.
The first layer of gel serves as a foundation for the rest of the manicure. It should be thin and delicate, providing a smooth base for the subsequent layers of gel or nail polish. This initial layer is crucial in achieving a natural look, enhancing the appearance of your nails, and prolonging their length. It is normal for the first layer to appear slightly uneven or "wonky," as the subsequent layers will help to create a more uniform and polished look.
Depending on the type of gel you are using, you may need to repeat the process of applying and curing the first layer to ensure adequate coverage and strength. It is important to follow the specific instructions provided with your chosen gel product, as curing times and application techniques may vary. Once the first layer is complete, you can move on to the second layer, which will add more depth and dimension to your manicure.
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Applying the second layer
Start by applying a thin layer of gel evenly over the entire nail. Make sure to cover the entire surface of the nail, from the nail bed to the tip. This initial thin layer provides a solid foundation for the rest of the application. Take your time with this step, as a thorough application will ensure a smooth and consistent finish.
Next, add a small amount of gel down the center of your nail, following the natural curve from the nail bed to the tip. This step adds extra volume and height to the center of the nail, creating a subtle arch. Adjust the amount of gel you apply to suit your desired level of arch. If you have naturally flat nails and wish to achieve a curvier look, consider adding a slightly larger amount of gel during this step.
Allow the gel to settle for a few seconds. This step is crucial, as it gives the gel time to level and spread evenly across the nail. Be patient and avoid the temptation to cure the gel immediately, as this can impact the final shape and structure.
Once the gel has settled, it's time to cure it under a lamp. Place your nails under the lamp for the recommended time, which can vary depending on the type of gel and lamp you are using. Curing the gel sets the shape and hardens the gel, providing strength and structure to your nails.
After curing, your nails may have a sticky layer on them. This is normal, and you can easily remove this residue with a non-acetone nail polish remover. Don't be concerned if your nail surface doesn't look perfect at this stage, as the final results will come together once the topcoat is applied.
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Curing the gel
Once you've selected the appropriate gel type for your needs, it's time to cure it. After applying a thin layer of gel evenly over the entire nail, you'll add a bit more gel down the center of your nail, from the nail bed to the tip. This technique helps achieve a nice curve, enhancing the natural shape of your nails. Allow the gel to settle for a few seconds. Then, place your nails under a UV or LED lamp to cure. The curing time will depend on the type of gel and the lamp you are using, so refer to the manufacturer's instructions. Typically, it takes around 30 seconds to two minutes for the gel to harden completely.
It's important to note that the gel will likely leave a sticky residue on your nails after curing. This is normal, and you can easily remove it with a non-acetone nail polish remover. Don't be concerned if your nails appear uneven or "wonky" after the second layer of gel. This is common, and the final result will still look smooth and polished. Additionally, ensure that you cap the free edges of your nails during the curing process to prevent chipping and ensure a long-lasting manicure.
If you're using a builder gel, also known as "Builder In A Bottle" or BIAB, you'll follow a similar curing process. These gels are thicker than standard gel polishes and provide extra support to flexible natural nails. While they can be soaked off, the removal process takes slightly longer than with regular gel polishes. Remember that the gel overlay application process may vary depending on the brand and type of gel you're using, so always refer to the specific instructions provided with your products.
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Removing the sticky layer
One of the most common and effective ways to remove the sticky layer is to use Isopropyl Alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol. This product is recommended by most polish lines and is likely what is suggested in kit instructions or YouTube tutorials. It is cheap and easily accessible, and it will give you the best results in removing the sticky residue. Simply soak some lint-free cotton pads in the alcohol and wipe your nails.
If you are looking for a more convenient option, alcohol wipes are also available. These wipes come in individual packets, already soaked with 70 percent Isopropyl alcohol, and they are perfect for removing the sticky layer from all your nails. They are a bit more costly, but they are very convenient and hygienic, especially when dealing with clients.
For those who prefer a more natural approach, you can use a small amount of non-acetone nail polish remover to wipe away the sticky layer. However, be cautious not to use too much, as it can potentially weaken your gel manicure and remove some of the colour or glossiness.
Additionally, you can create a DIY Gel Nail Cleanser using household chemicals with a high concentration of alcohol. This method is similar to using Isopropyl Alcohol, but it may be more drying on your nails. Soak a cotton pad with the cleanser and then wipe away the sticky layer.
Finally, if you are in a pinch and have some alcohol lying around the house, you can use spirits such as vodka or gin to remove the sticky layer. While wine or beer will not work, any straight spirit should effectively remove the tacky layer of gel.
Remember, it is essential to correctly remove the sticky layer to ensure your gel nails look their best and remain durable.
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Frequently asked questions
A gel overlay is a thicker/stronger gel that stays on your nail and gets infilled at each appointment. It is similar to acrylic but it’s more flexible and therefore safer for your natural nail.
The hard gel cannot be soaked off and needs to be filed off if you want bare nails again. Soft gel can be soaked off.
First, apply a thin layer of gel over the whole nail. Then, add a little bit more gel down the center of your nail and cure it under a lamp. Finish by applying a thin layer of gel top coat on every nail, making sure to cap the free edges, and cure it under the light.
Yes, you can use regular nail polish with a gel overlay. Once you’re done building your overlay, wipe it down with alcohol or acetone and paint it like a regular nail, skipping the base coat.
A gel overlay can help your natural nails grow longer and stronger. It can also hide imperfections and improve the appearance of your nails.
