Noah Sinclair
Builder gel is a type of gel polish that can be used to create nail extensions, strengthen weak nails, and grow them out. Unlike regular gel manicures, which typically last for about two weeks, builder gel can last longer and cause minimal damage to your nails over time. It is applied in a similar way to nail polish, with small, horizontal strokes to ensure the polish goes across the entire nail. Builder gel is also self-levelling, so it should be left for a few seconds after application to ensure it is applied evenly. Once applied, it must be cured under a UV or LED lamp, which hardens the gel. The flexibility of builder gel means it is less likely to crack than other gels or acrylics.
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What You'll Learn
Prepping your nails
If you are applying builder gel to the natural nail only, you can now apply a base coat or primer if your builder gel requires one. If you are extending the nail, apply your nail tip or form before applying the gel and creating the length.
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Applying builder gel
Nail Prep
Before applying builder gel, the nail should be prepped. This includes pushing back and trimming the cuticles to avoid any gel being applied to them, which can cause lifting. Nails should be cleansed with a lint-free pad soaked in nail cleanser or acetone to remove any excess oils or residue. A nail dehydrator can also be used to remove oils. A primer can be applied to enhance adhesion, and some sources suggest buffing the nail plate with a nail buffer.
Applying the Gel
Builder gel can be applied directly to the nail to build up and strengthen the apex (the highest point on your nail bed). It is applied with a nail brush, using small, horizontal strokes to ensure the gel goes across the entire nail. The gel should be kept thicker in the center and thinner at the edges, staying away from the cuticle and covering the free edge. It is important not to apply the gel to the skin or cuticles. Builder gel tends to 'self-level', so allow it to settle for a few seconds to ensure it is applied evenly.
Curing
Builder gel is then cured under a UV or LED lamp, which sets the gel firmly in place. The lamp type and curing time will depend on the specific builder gel being used.
Additional Coats
Additional coats of builder gel can be applied as needed, curing each layer. After curing, the nail's structure should be assessed, and more gel can be added for smoothness and strength if required.
Shaping and Filing
Once the final coat has been cured, the nail can be shaped and filed to the desired shape, evening out any areas that are too thick.
Top Coat
To finish, a top coat can be applied for a glossy or matte finish. This is then cured under LED/UV light to complete the manicure and provide durable shine and protection.
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Curing with a UV/LED lamp
When curing with a UV/LED lamp, it is important to follow the correct procedure. Firstly, ensure that you are using a compatible gel nail polish and lamp. Incompatibility can lead to under-curing, which can damage your nails. Apply the gel nail polish in thin, even coats, leaving a slight gap between the polish and your cuticles to prevent lifting. Remove any excess polish from your skin before curing to avoid potential reactions or allergies.
Position your hand under the lamp, ensuring that the shine from the lacquer faces upward to receive maximum light exposure. Most UV/LED lamps have preset timers, with curing times ranging from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, depending on the lamp's power and the polish's requirements. LED lamps typically cure faster than UV lamps, but not all gel polishes are compatible with LED technology. Some lamps offer dual UV and LED functionality, allowing you to switch between the two.
It is important to be mindful of the potential risks associated with UV exposure. According to Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist, both LED and UV lamps emit ultraviolet (UV) light, primarily in the UVA range, which is a risk factor for skin ageing and cancer. To minimise these risks, Dr. Gohara recommends maintaining a strong skin barrier by using gentle, moisturising cleansers. Additionally, consider applying sunscreen before your manicure routine to provide extra protection.
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Shaping and filing
Shaping:
Before applying any product to your nails, it's essential to shape them to your desired style. Use a nail file to gently shape your nails, taking care not to be too aggressive, as this can weaken the nail bed. The shaping process involves refining the nail edges and achieving the desired nail shape, such as square, round, or almond.
Filing:
Filing serves multiple purposes in the UV builder gel nail process. Firstly, you'll use a nail file to gently buff the surface of your nails after shaping. This removes the natural shine and creates a textured surface for the builder gel to adhere to. It's important to be gentle during this step to avoid damaging your natural nails.
After applying the UV builder gel and curing it under a UV or LED lamp, you'll return to filing. This time, the filing process will help you perfect the desired shape and even out any areas that may be too thick or uneven. Use a nail file to gently shape and refine the nails, taking your time to achieve the exact shape you want. Remember that hard gels, a type of builder gel, typically need to be filed off for removal, so be cautious not to over-file.
Additionally, you can use a nail shaping clip to further refine the nail shape and achieve more intricate designs.
Aftercare and Maintenance:
To ensure the longevity of your UV builder gel nails, proper aftercare is essential. Regularly apply cuticle oil to the base of your nails to maintain cuticle health and promote nail growth. It's also important to wear gloves when performing tasks that may expose your nails to harsh chemicals or extreme conditions.
To maintain the structure and appearance of your gel nails, get a fill every 2–3 weeks to address any new nail growth. When it's time for a change or to give your nails a break, remember that safe removal is crucial to protect your natural nails. Most builder gels can be soaked off at home using foil, acetone, and cotton. However, hard gel nail polish usually requires professional removal as it needs to be carefully filed off to avoid damaging your natural nails.
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Adding colour or top coat
Adding colour or a top coat to your UV builder gel nail art is a simple process. Firstly, it is important to note that you should always follow the instructions of your chosen gel brand to get the best results. This includes using products from the same nail system, such as using the same brand for the builder gel and top coat.
If you have used a clear or skin-coloured builder gel to mimic natural nails and want to add colour, you can apply a layer of your chosen gel polish. This can be done using a gel polish colour of your choice. Apply the polish in thin layers, starting from the base of the nail and gently brushing towards the tip, ensuring to cover the entire nail surface. Repeat this process for all nails and cure the gel polish according to your lamp instructions. For a richer colour, you can repeat these steps, adding more layers of colour.
After curing the colour, you can apply a top coat to seal in the gel polish. Cure the top coat under the lamp and, if needed, wipe away any tackiness with a lint-free wipe and isopropyl alcohol. You can then finish by moisturising your cuticles with cuticle oil.
It is important to note that builder gels can also come in various colours, so you may not always need to add a separate colour or top coat. Clear, nude, and light pink are the most common shades, but there are many colours to choose from. Additionally, if you are using hard gel, you may need to file it off instead of soaking it off, which can add bulk to the nail.
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