Isla Bennett
Gel nail polish can be tricky to apply without encountering issues such as shrinkage, lifting, or peeling. There are many factors that can cause gel nail polish to shrink, including the use of primer, improper curing placement, and the presence of oil or moisture on the nail bed. To prevent these issues, it is important to start with a clean, dry nail plate, free of any oil or residue. Capping the free edge of the nail and curing a few nails at a time can also help to reduce the risk of shrinkage.
Why do gel nails shrink when drying out?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use of quick-dry nail polish | Quick-dry nail polishes can cause worse shrinkage than regular nail polishes |
| Buffing nails | Buffing nails before applying gel nail polish can lead to shrinkage |
| Washing hands before application | The oils and conditioning agents in soap can cause the gel polish to separate or form a "hole" |
| Primer | The use of primer can increase soak-off time and cause the gel polish colour to bleed into the base coat |
| Application technique | Applying a thin coat of base and curing it for the full cure time can prevent shrinkage |
| Top coat | The use of a top coat can prevent shrinkage |
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What You'll Learn
Gel polish is too thick
If your gel nail polish is too thick, there are several things you can do to rectify this. Firstly, check the consistency of the polish by stirring it with a clean cuticle stick. This can help break down any clumps and ensure a smoother consistency. If the polish is still too thick, you may need to repeat the thinning process. Always store your gel polishes in a cool, dark place to maintain consistency and prolong their shelf life.
If you are finding that your nails are still sticky after curing, this is likely because you haven't removed the tacky layer from the top coat. This sticky residue is normal and helps the subsequent colour coat adhere better to the nail. To remove the stickiness, you will need to use an acetone-based product.
If you are experiencing wrinkling or bubbling, this could be due to under-curing. The thicker the layer of polish, the longer the curing time needs to be as it takes longer for the light to penetrate through the layers and fully cure the polish. Try to apply multiple thin, even coats, curing between each layer.
If you are still experiencing thickness, try warming the bottle by placing it in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes. This will make the polish thinner and easier to apply.
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Incorrect nail preparation
To avoid this issue, it is important to apply thin layers of gel polish. You can always add more polish if needed, but it is crucial to start with thin layers. Additionally, ensure that you are using a high-quality gel polish and that your nail lamp is functioning properly. The UV light should be hitting all fingers optimally, and it is common practice to cure the thumbnails separately to ensure the lamp cures the gel polish effectively.
Another aspect of incorrect nail preparation that can lead to issues with gel nails is the presence of moisture and oil on the nails. Moisture and oil can cause nail polish to bubble, so it is important to clean your hands and nails before applying gel polish. Wash your hands with warm, soapy water, and clean beneath each nail. Applying a clear base coat before the gel polish can also help seal in your nails' natural oils, preventing them from spoiling your manicure.
In summary, to avoid issues with gel nails drying out, it is crucial to apply thin layers of high-quality gel polish, ensure your nail lamp is functioning properly, and address any moisture or oil on the nails before beginning the application process.
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Low-quality nail lamp
Using a nail lamp is essential to cure gel nail polish. Without it, the molecules in the gel won't be able to bond together correctly, and your manicure will remain soft and susceptible to damage.
While there is no explicit definition of what constitutes a low-quality nail lamp, a low-quality nail lamp may be one that does not provide enough power to cure your gel nail polish effectively. This could be due to several factors, such as the type of lamp, the power rating, the wavelength, and the bulb's effectiveness.
Firstly, LED lamps generally cure faster than UV lamps and produce less heat, benefiting those with sensitive skin or nails. However, some technicians prefer UV lamps as they offer more power and a wider working area. Therefore, a low-quality UV lamp may not offer sufficient power for effective curing, whereas a low-quality LED lamp may not provide the same level of curing as a higher-quality LED lamp.
Secondly, the power rating of your nail lamp is essential. For an LED lamp, a power rating of at least 36 watts is recommended. A low-quality nail lamp may have a lower power rating, leading to longer curing times or ineffective curing.
Thirdly, the UV wavelength exposure and the bulb's effectiveness play a role in the curing process. The UV wavelength must be compatible with the compounds in the gel polish to absorb light and initiate polymerization. Over time, UV bulbs can wear out and lose their effectiveness, impacting the curing process. Therefore, a low-quality nail lamp may have an incompatible UV wavelength or an ineffective bulb, leading to improper curing.
In summary, a low-quality nail lamp may not provide sufficient power, have a low power rating, or lack the appropriate UV wavelength or effective bulbs to cure gel nail polish effectively. This can result in longer curing times or incomplete curing, impacting the durability and quality of your manicure.
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High humidity levels
Gel nail polish can be tricky to apply, and high humidity levels can cause a number of issues. Firstly, it's important to understand that gel nail polish is affected by the environment in which it is applied. Heat, cold, and humidity can change the consistency of the nail polish, and this can impact the final result.
Humidity, in particular, can slow down the drying process of gel nail polish. In low humidity, the vapour from the evaporating solvents in the nail polish dissipates into the air, allowing the polish to cool down and dry fully. However, in high humidity, the thick, stagnant air prevents the vapour from moving away, disrupting the drying process. This can result in the top coat remaining tacky or not drying at all.
To avoid issues with high humidity, it is recommended to maintain a workspace temperature of around 70-75°F (21-24°C), with humidity levels below 50%. You can use dehumidifiers, air conditioners, or fans to regulate the humidity and maintain the ideal temperature. Additionally, ensure that your client's hands are thoroughly dried before beginning the application process, as any moisture left on the nail can impact the treatment's longevity.
It is also important to note that the thickness of the gel nail polish layers can impact the drying time. Applying thin layers of polish and allowing each layer to dry before applying the next can help prevent issues.
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Using the wrong products
Additionally, using a nail lamp that is incompatible with your gel polish can result in under-cured nails. Some gel formulas may not cure properly when exposed to oxygen, leaving a sticky layer that needs to be wiped off. If you are experiencing issues with curing, try testing another colour to see if it is a repeated issue with the lamp. Lamps do not last forever, and an upgrade may be necessary if you are experiencing regular issues.
Furthermore, it is crucial to prepare the nails properly before applying gel polish. Nails that are not filed before application can cause peeling as filing helps remove any natural debris, creating a smooth surface for the gel polish. Applying a base coat and sealing the free edge of the nail can also help prevent chipping and lifting.
Finally, it is important to note that the thicker the layer of polish, the longer the curing time needs to be. Thick coats of gel polish can lead to wrinkling and bubbling as the UV lamp may not be able to fully penetrate the colour and cure all layers effectively.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nails shrink when drying out because the gel contracts during the curing process. To prevent this, seal the free edge by applying the gel horizontally at the very edge.
Capping the free edge should be the last step before curing. This can prevent the product from contracting and shrinking during the curing process.
Ensure that your nails are clean and dry before applying gel nail polish. The presence of oil or residue on the nail bed can cause gel polish to shrink.
Applying the gel too thickly can lead to peeling, which can make it seem like your gel nails are shrinking. Applying a thin coat of base and setting it for the full cure time can help prevent this.
