Caleb Foster
Filling in the back part of your gel nails is a great way to refresh your manicure without having to start from scratch. This process, known as an infill, involves filing down the existing gel polish to create a neat surface, pushing back the cuticles, and then filling in the nail growth with new gel. This not only saves time and product but also helps to prevent over-prepping your natural nails, keeping them strong and healthy. It's important to use the right tools and products, such as a coarse nail file, a cuticle pusher, and a long-lasting gel polish, to ensure that your gel mani looks clean and lasts for several weeks.
How to fill in the back part of gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First Step | File down existing gel polish using a 100-grit nail file. Remove 90% of the gel, including the shiny top layer and most of the base gel. |
| Second Step | Use a softer file to gently go over your natural nail and remove any shine or lifting gel. Ensure a seamless transition from the natural nail to the gel. |
| Third Step | Push back cuticles and remove any dead skin with a cuticle pusher. |
| Fourth Step | Buff nails to create a rough texture, aiding better adhesion of the gel to the nail plate. |
| Fifth Step | Dehydrate the nail surface to remove any dust, dirt, and oils. |
| Sixth Step | Apply a thin coat of gel base to all nails, just past the edge of the old application. Cure under an LED or UV lamp. |
| Seventh Step | Apply another layer of gel base and dip fingers into the colour powder of choice. Tap off excess powder and cure under the lamp again. |
| Eighth Step | Repeat the previous step for a second layer and more coverage. File and shape nails, then dust off filing debris with a brush. |
| Ninth Step | Apply a thin coat of gel top to all nails, capping the free edge. Cure under the light for 45 seconds. |
| Tenth Step | Sculpt nails to the desired shape using a nail file. |
| Eleventh Step | Paint nails with chosen gel polish and cure in between each coat. Finish with a top coat to seal the manicure. |
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What You'll Learn
Filing down existing gel polish
Next, place a cotton ball soaked in acetone on your nail, then wrap it in a foil square. Press the cotton ball down onto your nail firmly, ensuring it covers the whole nail surface. Cover the cotton ball with the foil and wrap the top and sides around your finger to secure it in place. Repeat this for all the nails on that hand. Wait for 10 minutes to let the acetone soak into the gel polish. After 10 minutes, the gel polish should look crumbly, soft, bubbly, or curled.
Now you can pinch off the foil and cotton ball from your nail. Use a cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick to gently push the gel polish off each nail. Be careful not to scrape all the way down to your natural nail. Stop when there is still a little residue left. If the polish is not coming off easily, keep soaking the nail with the acetone-soaked cotton ball for another 5 minutes.
Finally, switch to a finer-grit file (400- to 600-grit) once you can see your nail ridges. Using this, slowly and carefully file away the remaining gel polish. Be patient, as this can take up to 10 minutes for each nail. Wipe away the dust occasionally with your free hand to see how far you have filed.
Another method to remove gel nail polish is to let your nails grow out and then clip them. This is a slow process, as it takes about six months for fingernails and 12 to 18 months for toenails to grow out. During this process, you need to resist the urge to pick at your gel nail polish, as picking and scraping off the polish can damage your nails.
A third method is to use a coarse nail file (80- to 100-grit) to file the surface of your nails in a cross-hatching pattern. First, run your nail file across your nail in one direction, then rotate it at a 90° angle and run the file over the same spot again. Then, move the file to a different spot on your nail and repeat the cross-hatching motion. Continue filing until there is just a thin layer of polish left on the nail. Be careful not to file too long in one place, or you could accidentally file down into your natural nail.
Once you get to the very bottom layer of polish, switch to a finer-grit file (400- to 600-grit). Using this, slowly and carefully file away the remaining gel polish. This method can take a long time, up to 10 minutes per nail, and you should wipe away the dust occasionally to see your progress.
It is important to note that filing off gel polish can damage your nails, making them thinner and weaker. Therefore, it is recommended to use acetone to remove gel nail polish, as it is less likely to damage your nails if used correctly.
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Cuticle care and prep
Pushing Back Cuticles:
Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin. Be firm but not too harsh, as cuticles are delicate and serve as a protective barrier for your nails. Cutting or damaging your cuticles can lead to infections and damage to the nail bed.
Removing Dead Skin:
Use the cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick to remove any dead skin from the nails. This step is essential to prevent future lifting of the gel polish.
Softening Cuticles:
Use a cuticle remover to soften your cuticles. This will make it easier to push them back and create a smooth surface for the gel polish to adhere to.
Cleaning Nails:
Thoroughly clean your nails to remove any residue, dirt, or dead skin cells. You can use cleanser wipes or a lint-free nail wipe to ensure your nails are grease-free and ready for the next steps.
Dehydrating Nails:
Apply a nail dehydrator to the natural part of your nail. This step helps remove any remaining moisture and ensures better adhesion of the gel polish. Allow the dehydrator to air dry completely before proceeding.
By following these steps, you will ensure that your cuticles are properly cared for and that your nails are adequately prepped for the gel polish application.
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Buffing the nail plate
Step 1: Choose the Right Tools
Select a suitable buffer for the job. You can use a multi-sided buffer block with different grit levels, or a separate file and buffer. If using a buffer block, opt for one with a grit of 100, 120, or 180. A finer grit of 180 or higher will create a smoother nail surface, which is not ideal for gel adhesion.
Step 2: Prepare Your Nails
Before buffing, ensure your nails are clean and free of any old nail polish. Use a cotton swab dipped in nail polish remover to wipe away any traces of polish. If your nails are long, trim them to the desired length to make the process easier.
Step 3: Buffing Technique
Hold the buffer parallel to your nail. Start with the large grit side of the buffer and place it on your nail. Using gentle, unidirectional strokes, buff your nail in an X shape. Avoid buffing side-to-side as this can create heat and dry out your nails. Each nail only needs 6 to 8 strokes to avoid over-buffing, which can damage your nails.
Step 4: Polish and Shine
After buffing, use the finer grit side of the buffer to polish your nails. Repeat the X-shaped strokes, with 4 to 6 strokes for each nail. Finally, use the smooth side of the buffer with little circular motions to add shine to your nails.
Step 5: Clean and Dehydrate
Once you've finished buffing, use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust created during the process. Then, wipe down the nail plate with a nail prep solution to remove any remaining dust, dirt, and oils. The final step is to dehydrate your nail surface using a nail prep dehydrator, which will help the gel adhere better.
Remember, buffing is an important step, but it should be done sparingly, about once a month, to avoid damaging your natural nails.
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Applying the gel
Before applying the gel, it is important to prep your nails. File down your existing gel polish using a nail file. Remove the top shiny layer and most of the base gel to give yourself a neat surface to work with. Be careful not to damage your natural nail or the surrounding skin. Use a softer file to gently go over your natural nail and remove any product that is lifting.
Once you are satisfied with the filing, push back your cuticles and remove any dead skin with a cuticle pusher. This is an important step to prevent future lifting. Buff your nails to create a rough texture, which will help the gel adhere to the nail plate. Be careful not to over-buff your natural nails as this can cause damage or thinning. Use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust and then wipe down the nail plate with a prep solution to remove any remaining dust, dirt, and oils.
The next step is to dehydrate your nail surface using a nail prep dehydrator. Once your nails are prepped, it's time to apply the gel. Depending on your gel system, you may need to apply a base gel first, followed by a builder gel. Starting at the cuticle area, carefully place the gel on the nail and drag it up to the tip. Once the whole nail is covered, apply more gel to the middle of the nail and let it float, creating a nice curve and reinforcing the stress point. Repeat this process for all your nails.
After applying the gel, cure your nails under an LED or UV lamp. Paint your nails with your chosen gel polish and create your desired nail look. Remember to cure each coat of gel polish and always finish with a top coat to seal and protect your manicure.
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Curing the gel
Curing gel nail polish involves using a UV or LED lamp to seal and harden the polish, through a process known as polymerisation. This causes the molecules in the gel polish to bond together, creating a solid layer of colour that is long-lasting and chip-resistant.
The curing process requires some training and technique to master. It is important to understand that gel polish is different from regular nail polish and requires curing under a special lamp to harden and seal. The use of a lamp is essential, and while some brands may not require UV or LED light, it is recommended by professionals to ensure effective curing. Without a lamp, the gel will remain soft and susceptible to damage. LED lamps are generally faster and produce less heat, beneficial for those with sensitive skin, while UV lamps are more powerful and often provide a wider work area.
Curing times can vary depending on the nail type and lamp used, ranging from a few seconds to several minutes. It is important to cure each coat, including the base and top coats, for adequate sealing. For best results, apply thin coats of polish, as thicker coats may not cure properly, especially with weaker lamps. Thin coats also reduce the risk of bumpiness and
To cure gel nail extensions, a thin layer of "Bond" is applied to the natural nails and cured under an LED lamp for 60 seconds or a UV lamp for 2 minutes. This is followed by applying "Prime" to the inside of the nail tips and curing again for 15-20 seconds.
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Frequently asked questions
Filling in the back part of your gel nails is also known as an infill. To do this, you need to remove around 80-90% of the gel from the back part of your nail, leaving a nice neat surface to work with. Then, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin. Next, apply a dehydrator and primer to your natural nail, before filling in the nail growth with a new gel. Finish with a top coat.
You will need a nail file, a cuticle pusher, a dehydrator, a primer, and your chosen gel polish. You will also need a lamp to cure your nails, either an LED or UV lamp.
Typically, people tend to infill their gel nails around once every three weeks. You will notice when your gels need infilling as your natural nail will be exposed at the cuticle end, and the gel nail will have moved upwards. Lifting is also a sign that you need to infill your nails.
