Isla Bennett
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for those seeking a long-lasting manicure with a smooth and safe finish. While gel polish itself does not damage nails, improper application and removal can weaken nails and cause breakage. To keep gel polish on natural nails for an extended period, it is crucial to follow the correct application and removal techniques, practice good nail care, and use suitable products. This includes preparing the nails, applying a base coat, builder gel, colour coat, and top coat, curing the polish with a UV/LED lamp, and removing the polish gently without peeling. Additionally, maintaining nail health through proper cuticle care, moisturization, and protection from water can help keep natural nails strong and prevent chipping.
How to keep gel polish on natural nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Application technique | File the nail tip in a single direction to prevent chipping and tearing. File the sides of the nails in a circular motion. |
| Removal technique | Do not peel off. Use the Gelous Removal Tool or Orangewood Cuticle Sticks to gently lift and remove the polish. |
| Nail care | Apply a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly, to your nails and cuticles several times daily. Use a jojoba-based nail oil to help keep the layers of keratin bonded together. |
| Products | Use the complete Gelous system: Base Coat, Builder Gel, Colour Coat, and Top Coat. |
| Protection | Wear gloves while cleaning or washing dishes to prevent water from penetrating the nail plate. |
| Safety | Ask your manicurist if tools are sterilised. Ensure they clean and disinfect tools after every client. |
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What You'll Learn
Use a complete gel system
Using a complete gel system is the best way to ensure a smooth, safe, and long-lasting manicure. The Gelous system, for example, includes a Base Coat, Builder Gel, Colour Coat, and Top Coat, as well as a UV/LED Gel Nail Lamp. The lamp is designed to work within a specific wavelength range, and the gel polish is formulated to cure perfectly within this range. This ensures optimal curing, which helps to prevent issues like irritations and allergies.
The base coat is essential as it helps the gel polish adhere to your nail bed. Apply a thin layer of the base coat gel polish, making sure it's evenly spread across the whole nail. Cure the base coat under the UV/LED lamp for about 45 to 60 seconds; the duration varies depending on the lamp. The base coat should be sticky, not dry, after curing.
After curing the base coat, apply your gel polish. Again, make sure this is a thin layer and wipe away any excess with acetone before curing.
The Builder Gel is a unique addition to the system, adding strength and thickness to your manicure. It creates a hard, protective layer that decreases flexibility and supports nail growth. It can be applied in one of five shades or left clear. When it's time to remove your gel polish, leaving a layer of Builder Gel behind will help maintain the strength of your nails.
Finally, seal your manicure with the Top Coat. This will give your nails a glossy finish and further protect the colour layer.
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Apply a protective base
Applying a protective base is an essential step in achieving a flawless gel manicure. Not only does it provide a smooth canvas for the gel polish to adhere to, but it also helps to strengthen your natural nails and promote healthy nail growth. Here's a step-by-step guide to applying a protective base for your gel polish:
- Nail Preparation: Start by ensuring your nails are clean and dry. Remove any existing nail polish and gently push back your cuticles using a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick. Avoid cutting or pushing your cuticles too aggressively, as this can lead to inflammation and infection.
- Filing and Shaping: Gently file your nails to your desired shape using a nail file. For thinner nails, opt for an emery board, and for thicker nails, a metal file is more suitable. Always file in a single direction when shaping the nail tip to prevent chipping and tearing. For the sides of the nails, use a circular filing motion.
- Buffing: Lightly buff the surface of your nails to create a smooth base. This step helps the gel polish adhere better and creates a more even finish. Be careful not to over-buff, as this can thin and weaken your nails.
- Base Coat Application: Select a high-quality base coat designed specifically for gel manicures. Carefully apply a thin, even layer of the base coat to each nail, ensuring complete coverage. Allow the base coat to dry thoroughly according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Builder Gel (Optional): If your nails are prone to bending or breaking, consider using a builder gel after the base coat. Builder gel adds strength and thickness to your manicure, creating a hard, protective layer. It enhances the resilience of your nails and supports nail growth. It is available in clear or various shades to match your desired look.
- Curing: Most gel manicures require curing under a UV or LED lamp. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for curing time and ensure you use a lamp that operates within the recommended wavelength range. Proper curing ensures a smooth, long-lasting finish and helps prevent issues like irritations and allergies.
Remember, it is crucial to use recommended products and follow the correct application techniques to maintain the health and strength of your natural nails. Taking the time to apply a protective base will not only enhance the durability of your gel manicure but also provide a protective barrier for your natural nails.
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Rehydrate nails with moisturising products
To keep your nails healthy before, during, and after gel manicures, it is important to rehydrate your nails with moisturising products.
Firstly, it is important to note that you cannot moisturise the nail plates with polish on. The polish acts as a barrier, so you will need to remove it before rehydrating your nails. Acetone, commonly used to remove nail polish, can dehydrate the nail plate, cuticles, and surrounding skin, causing them to become brittle. Therefore, it is recommended to opt for traditional nail polish if you experience recurring nail problems or are allergic to acetone.
To rehydrate your nails, apply a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly, to your nails and cuticles several times daily. This will minimise brittleness and help prevent your nails from chipping. You can use your go-to hand cream, or a nail-specific cream, such as Londontown's Kur Restorative Nail Cream, which contains vitamin E to strengthen nails and prevent cracking. Oils tend to absorb into the nail even better than creams, especially products with sunflower oil and Brazil nut oil, which are phospholipids that increase nail flexibility and combat dryness. Glycolic acid is another good option, as it helps to break down the bonds of the keratin that makes up the nail cells and is a humectant that helps hold onto moisture.
In addition to using moisturising products, your diet can also play a role in keeping your nails hydrated. To prevent dry and brittle nails, eat foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids, such as salmon, walnuts, soy, eggs, and seeds.
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Avoid picking at gel polish
While it may be tempting to pick off your gel polish, especially when it has started to lift, doing so can cause damage to your natural nails. When you pick off gel polish, you are also removing the top layer of your natural nails, which weakens them and makes them more prone to cracking, breaking, and odd textures. It can take months for your nails to recover from this damage as you wait for the healthy nail to grow out.
To avoid picking at your gel polish, it is important to care for your nails properly. This includes wearing gloves when cleaning, using cuticle oil, and avoiding using your nails as tools. Keeping your nails and hands moisturized is also essential, as it can help prevent chipping and maintain nail flexibility.
If your gel polish has started to lift, it is recommended to book an appointment with your manicurist to have it removed correctly and efficiently. They can also provide advice on at-home removal techniques if you are unable to schedule an appointment.
Additionally, it is crucial to use proper application and removal techniques, practice good nail care, and choose the right products to maintain the health and strength of your nails. This includes using products designed for gel polish, such as a base coat, builder gel, colour coat, and top coat, and ensuring proper curing with a UV/LED gel nail lamp.
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Protect nails from water damage
To keep your nails healthy and prevent water damage, it's important to care for them properly before, during, and after gel manicures. Here are some tips to protect your nails from water damage:
Protect Nails During Water Activities:
- When swimming, especially in chlorinated pools, apply a fortifying base coat, durable nail polish, and a top coat to protect your nails from chlorine damage.
- Consider using glitter nail polish as it is thicker than regular lacquer and can help prevent nail damage from pool chemicals.
- Even saltwater can be damaging to your nails, so always wear a protective base coat and non-breathable nail polish when swimming in the sea.
- Keep your nails dry as much as possible. Wear gloves when washing dishes or cleaning to protect your nails from harsh chemicals and water exposure.
Proper Gel Polish Application and Removal:
- Follow the proper gel polish application and removal techniques. Be gentle and patient during removal, as rushing or being forceful can damage your nails.
- Avoid picking, peeling, or using other nails or tools to remove gel polish. Instead, soak your fingertips in acetone or use cotton balls soaked in acetone and wrapped in foil to remove the polish.
- Apply sunscreen to your hands before a gel manicure to protect your skin from ultraviolet radiation used to seal the polish.
- Take breaks between gel manicures to give your nails time to recover and nourish them with cuticle oil and hand cream.
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Frequently asked questions
Firstly, prep your nails. Push back your cuticles, trim and file your nails into a shape that will be less prone to breakage (usually a rounded shape). Then, buff your nails to create a gritty texture that will help the gel polish adhere better. Next, cleanse your nails with alcohol and a lint-free wipe to dehydrate them and ensure the product really adheres. Finally, apply thin, even layers of gel nail polish, capping the free edge of your nail after each layer.
The gel nail lamp you use should be strong enough for the specific brand of gel polish you are using. For example, some products require a minimum of 48W and a wavelength of 360-405nm. Be sure to cure your nails for the recommended amount of time, or longer if you are unsure.
Avoid getting gel polish on your skin as this can cause it to lift or fall off. Make sure your nails are fully dehydrated before applying gel polish, as oil on the nail plate will cause the product to lift off. You can use a nail primer to dehydrate your nails and prevent chipping.
Gel manicures are supposed to last two to three weeks without lifting or chipping if you prepare your nails properly. However, some people find that their gel polish starts to chip within a few days.
Yes, you should avoid using your nails as tools or doing anything that puts stress on the edges of your nails, as this can cause chipping. You should also avoid submerging your hands in water, as this can cause the nail plate to swell and bend, leading to chipping, cracking, or peeling.
