Isla Bennett
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for those wanting long-lasting, durable manicures. However, it's not uncommon for gel polish to crack, chip, or peel. There are several reasons this might happen, and fortunately, there are also several ways to prevent it. From ensuring proper nail preparation and using the correct products to maintaining nail health, this article will explore how to keep gel nail polish from cracking.
How to keep gel nail polish from cracking
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use a sturdy base coat | Nail Envy, Halo Mega Bond |
| Use a top coat | Seche Vite, Out The Door |
| Moisturize hands and nails | Use a dash of cream, Pure Nails Cuticle Feed, Sweet Almond Nail & Cuticle Oil |
| Avoid water | Water can cause nail plates to expand and then contract when drying, leading to cracks |
| Avoid harsh chemicals | |
| Keep nails dry | |
| Avoid using nails as tools | |
| Prep nails | Push back and trim cuticles, buff nails, cleanse with Prep & Wipe, dehydrate nail plate |
| Remove any dirt or oil residue | Polish may not adhere properly |
| Cure gel polish for the correct amount of time | 30-60 seconds for LED lamps, 120 seconds for UV lamps |
| Use a flexible gel | |
| Keep nails short |
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What You'll Learn
Avoid over-filing or thinning natural nails
Thinning the natural nail is one of the leading causes of nail issues and service breakdowns. The thinner the nail, the more flexible it will be. The natural nail is the base that supports your nail product. If it bends beyond the flexibility of the gel on top, it starts to create stress fractures. They start off small but can lead to visible cracks or even breakages. Once the nail breaks below the gel, the gel is likely to snap too.
Improper removal or over-filing are usually the key reasons the nail plate becomes thin. Any force needed to remove the gel will cause delamination and therefore thin the natural nail. If removal takes place outside of the salon, ensure your clients are taught how to remove their nails safely. A safe soak-off should not be rushed. If clients experience lifting, advise them not to pull off the remaining gel but to safely soak it off or book in for a removal. Infills reduce the risk of damage to the natural nail.
We never advocate for 'roughing' the surface of the natural nail or using e-files on the natural nail – even with proper training, there is always a risk of damage to the natural nail. A gentle buff with a 240-grit buffer to remove the shine is all that is needed with gels for adhesion. If damage has been caused by unsafe removal or prior over-filing, we would advise reducing the length of the nail and starting a nail 'rehab' program. This will allow the nail to grow out any damage. Keeping nails short and without a free edge will reduce the risk of the nails getting bumped or flexed, adding stress to the nail plate.
If your client prefers to have longer nails, we recommend using full-cover tips to add length, keeping the natural nail short. Do not use any gels that require 'roughing' the surface of the nail. Ideally, you want to use a gel that doesn’t require this as it will add further damage. If you feel major damage has occurred, we advise not proceeding with gel application. Excessively thin nail plates can allow products to soak through the nail plate and into the nail bed. This increases the risk of allergic reactions and chemical burns, especially if you are applying build layers of gel. It is always safer to allow the nail to regrow stronger before returning for gel application.
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Use a sturdy base coat
Using a sturdy base coat is an effective way to prevent gel nail polish from cracking. A sturdy base coat, such as Nail Envy, can help to stiffen the nail and prevent nail flex, which is often the cause of cracks. It is important to find a base coat that suits your nails, as some may be too flexible and others too stiff. For example, if you have thin and weak nails, a softer gel may be more suitable, while thicker nails may require a harder gel.
Additionally, it is crucial to properly prepare your nails before applying any polish. This includes pushing back and trimming your cuticles, buffing your nails to create a smooth surface, and cleansing and dehydrating your nail plate. Proper nail preparation ensures that the gel polish adheres properly and reduces the likelihood of peeling and chipping.
Applying a base coat is a critical step in achieving a long-lasting manicure. It provides a protective layer that helps to prevent chipping and cracking. However, it is important to note that a base coat alone may not be sufficient to completely prevent cracking, especially if your nails are prone to lifting or your hands are frequently exposed to water.
To further reduce the chances of cracking, it is recommended to use a top coat in conjunction with a base coat. Experimenting with different products and combinations can help determine the best routine for your nails. Additionally, maintaining moisture in your nails and manicure post-application can also help prevent dryness and brittleness, which can contribute to cracking.
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Moisturise hands before flights
Moisturising your hands before a flight is an important step in maintaining healthy skin and nails. The air inside an aircraft cabin is often dry, which can lead to moisture loss from the skin and nails. By moisturising beforehand, you can help prevent this moisture loss and keep your hands and nails hydrated.
When moisturising your hands, pay special attention to your nails and cuticles. Massage a generous amount of hand cream or lotion into your hands, cuticles, and nails. You can also apply a cuticle oil to your cuticles and the surrounding skin. This will help to nourish and protect your nails, keeping them flexible and less prone to cracking or chipping.
If you have gel nail polish, moisturising is especially important. Gel manicures can cause nail brittleness, peeling, and cracking, and the aircraft's dry environment can further contribute to these issues. Moisturising your hands and nails before your flight will help to counteract these effects and keep your gel manicure looking fresh and lasting longer.
Additionally, when travelling with nail polish or gel nail kits, there are a few things to keep in mind. Nail polish is considered a flammable liquid, so it is typically allowed in limited quantities in carry-on and checked luggage. Familiarise yourself with the specific regulations, such as the TSA's 3-1-1 liquids rule, and pack your nail polish accordingly. To ensure your nail polish arrives intact, wrap each bottle in bubble wrap or a similar protective material and place it in the centre of your luggage, surrounded by soft items.
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Push back and trim cuticles
Pushing back and trimming your cuticles is an important step in the manicure process to ensure your gel nail polish has a smooth surface to adhere to, thereby reducing the chances of cracking. Here is a step-by-step guide to pushing back and trimming your cuticles:
Step 1: Apply Cuticle Remover Gel
Start by applying a cuticle remover gel to soften the cuticles. This will help to loosen the cuticles and make them easier to push back.
Step 2: Push Back Cuticles
Using a cuticle pusher, gently push back the softened cuticles. Be careful not to use too much force, as this can cause damage to the nail bed. Pushing back the cuticles will help to clear away dead skin cells and allow your nail products to seal more easily, resulting in a longer-lasting manicure.
Step 3: Trim Hangnails or Loose Skin
If there are any hangnails or loose skin remaining after pushing back the cuticles, you can carefully trim them away with cuticle nippers or small scissors. Be mindful not to cut too close to the skin to avoid causing pain or damage.
Step 4: Moisturise
Finish by applying a moisturising product, such as cuticle oil or a rich hand cream, to your cuticles and nails. This will help to prevent dryness and keep your cuticles healthy, reducing the likelihood of splitting or cracking.
It is important to note that cuticles should not be cut too aggressively or too often, as this can lead to inflammation and infection. If you are unsure about trimming your cuticles, it is best to leave this step to a professional manicurist. Additionally, maintaining healthy nails and cuticles is an ongoing process. Be sure to regularly moisturise your cuticles and nails, and consider adding nail-healthy supplements to your diet to promote nail strength and cuticle health.
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Cure gel polish for the correct amount of time
Curing your gel polish for the correct amount of time is essential to prevent cracking and chipping. The curing process hardens the gel polish and ensures it adheres properly to your nails.
When curing gel polish with an LED lamp, the recommended curing time is between 30 and 60 seconds. If you are using a UV lamp, the curing time is longer, at 120 seconds. It is important to follow the specified curing times for your chosen lamp type. Insufficient curing time can lead to improper setting of the gel polish, resulting in increased chances of chipping, cracking, and peeling.
Additionally, proper preparation before curing is crucial. This includes pushing back and trimming your cuticles, buffing your nails to create a textured surface for the polish to grip, and cleansing your nails to remove any dirt or oil residue. By following the correct curing time and proper preparation techniques, you can help ensure your gel nail polish remains intact and crack-free for longer.
Remember, always follow professional advice and instructions when it comes to curing and applying gel nail polish to maintain the health and strength of your natural nails.
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Frequently asked questions
To prevent gel nail polish from cracking, it's important to prepare your nails properly before applying the polish. This includes pushing back and trimming your cuticles, buffing your nails, and cleansing them with a product like Prep & Wipe to remove any dirt or oil residue. Additionally, using a base coat and a top coat can help prevent cracking, and it's recommended to apply thin and even coats of polish rather than thick coats.
Cracks can appear in gel polish due to improper preparation or application. Applying polish in thicker coats can lead to cracking, as it may not dry properly. It's best to use thin and even coats of polish.
The use of harsh removal techniques or prior over-filing of the nails can cause them to become thin and weak. It's important to safely remove gel polish by gently soaking it off rather than using force, which can damage the natural nail.
To maintain nail health, it's recommended to keep nails short and without a free edge to reduce the risk of bumping or flexing, which can add stress to the nail plate. Additionally, performing a "nail rehab" program can help, which involves allowing the nails to grow out any damage and providing them with proper nourishment.
Some tips to prevent gel nail polish from cracking include using a sturdy base coat, such as Nail Envy, to add strength and durability. Additionally, using a flexible polish like Revlon Colorstay can make the polish less prone to cracking. Moisturizing your hands and nails can also help prevent dryness and cracking.
