Isla Bennett
Gel nails are a popular alternative to acrylic nails, offering a more natural look and feel. The application and removal processes are less involved than those of acrylics, and they are less prone to breakage, brittleness, and cracking. Gels are also faster to apply than other types of extensions, and they allow your natural nails to grow underneath. In this article, we will take you through the steps to fill in your gel nails with tips at home, as well as how to apply a full set of gel nails with tips.
How to fill gel nails with tips
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Gel nail extensions vs acrylic nail extensions | Gel nail extensions are a gentler, easier-to-remove alternative to acrylic. Gels are also lighter, more flexible, and create a more natural look. |
| Gel nails with tips | To add length and drama, glue on a set of nail tips before applying the gel. Choose natural or clear tips in your desired shape and length. Popular shapes include coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval. |
| Preparing nails for gel application | Start with clean, polish-free nails. Remove any old nail polish, gel nails, or tips using acetone. Wash hands with warm water and/or use a lint-free wipe soaked in alcohol to remove any filing debris and oil. Allow nails to fully dry. Push back cuticles with a cuticle pusher. Trim off any hangnails with a cuticle trimmer if necessary. |
| Applying gel nails with tips | Brush the gel on very thin over the entire nail, applying it as you would a base coat. Cure the gel under a UV or LED lamp. The curing time depends on the system being used and can be anywhere from 30 seconds to three minutes. Apply additional coats of gel as needed, curing each layer under the lamp. The number of layers applied depends on the desired strength and thickness. |
| Finishing the manicure | After curing the final coat of gel, cleanse the nails with a disinfectant cleanser to remove the tacky layer, then have the client wash their hands. Finish the service by applying a base coat and polish. |
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What You'll Learn
Preparing your nails
Start by removing any old nail polish, gel nails, or tips. Use acetone to get rid of any traces of the old manicure. You can wrap your old gel nails in acetone-soaked cotton pads before gently scraping off the gel. Soak your nails in warm water for 3-5 minutes to help loosen any remaining polish or gel. Use a coarse nail file to gently buff off any stubborn areas. Wash your hands with warm water and soap to ensure your nails are completely clean and free of any residue.
Next, you'll want to push back your cuticles. Use a cuticle pusher, either metal or plastic, or an orangewood stick to gently push back the thin layer of cuticle skin towards your nail fold. This step helps expose more of your natural nail, creating a better surface for the gel to adhere to, and ensuring your gel nails last longer. If desired, you can soak your hands in warm water for 5-10 minutes to soften your cuticles before pushing them back.
Now, it's time to shape your nails. Use a nail file to shape your natural nails and the tips (if you're applying them). File in one direction only to avoid damaging your nails. Choose the nail tip shape you desire, such as coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, or squoval. You can also trim your nails to the desired length at this stage.
Once your nails are shaped and filed, use a buffing block to roughen the surface of your natural nails and the tips. This step is crucial as it helps the gel adhere better to your nails. Be sure to buff gently and not overdo it, as excessive buffing can thin out your nails. Dust off any filing debris with a fluffy brush.
Finally, cleanse your nails with a disinfectant cleanser to remove any dust and natural oils. These can interfere with the gel's ability to bond to your natural nail. You can also use a lint-free wipe saturated in alcohol to wipe down your nails. Allow your nails to dry completely before proceeding with the next steps of your gel manicure.
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Choosing the right nail tips
Size
The first and most important factor to consider when choosing nail tips is size. If the nail tips do not match the size of your natural nails, they may fall off easily. Measure the width of your nails at their widest point and compare these measurements to the sizes of the gel tips. It is recommended to choose a larger size if your nail size falls between two different options. The nail tips should fit snugly on your nail bed, allowing for a natural look.
Shape
Nail tips come in various shapes, including coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval. The shape you choose will depend on your personal preference and the style of manicure you desire. For example, almond-shaped tips are ideal for those seeking a more untraditional nail shape, providing a larger canvas for nail art.
Type
There are two main types of nail tips: nail tips and nail forms. Nail tips are plastic-shaped tips that are glued onto the top of the natural nail. On the other hand, nail forms are attached underneath the free edge of the natural nails, wrapping around and sticking to the fingers like stickers. Nail forms tend to be more challenging for beginners, while nail tips are generally easier to work with and more time-efficient.
Material
Most nail tips are made from plastic, specifically acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). This material is durable yet flexible, allowing for a smooth surface that resists yellowing. When selecting nail tips, opt for those made from pure or "virgin" plastic, as it does not contain any recycled material that could potentially cause quality issues.
Adhesive
When applying nail tips, it is crucial to use a professional glue or resin designed for nails. These adhesives vary in thickness and setting time, so choose one that provides enough support to securely attach the tip. If you are new to using nail tips, slower-setting glue is recommended to allow for more flexibility in placement.
By carefully considering these factors, you can choose the right nail tips to create beautiful and long-lasting gel nails.
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Applying the gel
Before applying the gel, ensure your nails are clean and free of any old nail polish, gel residue, or tips. Use acetone to remove any traces of the old manicure, and then wash your hands to create a blank canvas for the new manicure. Push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher to expose as much of your natural nail as possible. You can soak your hands in warm water for 5-10 minutes to soften your cuticles before pushing them back.
Choose natural or clear nail tips in your desired shape and length. Popular shapes include coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval, and lengths typically range from extra-short to extra-long. Assign one nail tip to each of your natural nails, ensuring they match in width.
Glue the nail tips to your natural nails. Use a buffing block to roughen the shiny surface of your natural nails and the tips. This process will help the gel layers adhere better. Apply the gel from your cuticle to the free edge of the fake nail tip. Spread the gel across your entire nail to complete the first coat. Gently push the gel back towards your cuticle and then pull the brush in the opposite direction towards the free edge to divide the bead of gel in half. Distribute the gel evenly on both sides of your nail using the brush. Remember, don't press down on your nail with the brush; instead, lightly distribute the gel as if it were a cushion between your nail and the brush.
Cure the first coat of gel under a UV or LED lamp according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Once the first coat is cured, apply a second coat of gel in the same manner and cure it. You can apply additional coats depending on the desired strength and thickness. After curing the final coat, cleanse your nails with a disinfectant cleanser to remove any tackiness, and then wash your hands. Finish the service by applying a base coat and polish if desired.
Remember, gel nails are thinner and more flexible than acrylics, providing a more natural feel and look. With the right tools and techniques, you can achieve a professional-looking gel manicure that lasts up to three weeks.
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Curing the gel
Curing gel nails requires some training and practice to master, but with the right technique and patience, you can achieve perfect results. Gel polish is a type of nail polish that needs to be cured with a special UV or LED lamp. This process, known as polymerisation, uses light to seal and harden the gel nail polish, creating a durable layer of colour that resists chipping and wear.
To cure gel nails, start by prepping your nails. Carefully soak a cotton ball or pad with a non-acetone polish remover and rub it onto each fingernail to remove any dirt or oils. This provides a clean surface for the gel. If you get any gel polish on your skin, wipe it away with a cleanser before curing, as it will not simply peel off once cured. Next, gently shake the bottle of gel nail polish and carefully paint two thin coats of polish onto your dry nails. Allow a few minutes for the gel to set between each coat. When applying the gel, remember to cap the free edge by running the brush over the tip of your nail to create a seal. This helps the gel stick to your nail and prevents chipping or peeling.
Once you have applied the gel polish, it's time to cure it under the lamp. Set a timer and activate the lamp. Ensure your hand is flat under the lamp, and keep still to achieve a perfect shine. The curing time can vary depending on the product and the type of lamp used, so refer to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, the cycle takes between one and ten minutes. If your gel is not curing, it may be because the gel layer is too thick or your lamp is not functioning properly.
After curing each coat, you may need to remove any sticky residue with a cotton pad soaked in alcohol or a specialised gel cleanser. Finally, for frequent use, remember to replace the UV bulb in your lamp every 2-4 months to maintain its effectiveness.
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Finishing touches
Once you have applied your final layer of gel nail polish, it's time to finish your manicure. Cure your nails under a UV or LED lamp for the recommended time, which is usually 2 minutes for a UV lamp and 30 seconds for an LED lamp.
After curing, you may find that your nails have a tacky, sticky layer on them. If this is the case, simply dip a cotton ball in isopropyl alcohol and gently blot the top of each nail. Next, take a nail buffer and smooth out the top layer of the clear coat by gently rubbing the softest side of the buffer back and forth. This will smooth out any imperfections or excess top coat buildup. Finish by wiping away any gel polish or top coat from your cuticles with an acetone-soaked cotton ball.
Finally, apply cuticle oil to the skin around the base of each nail. This will leave the skin around your nails looking hydrated and healthy.
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Frequently asked questions
Start with clean, polish-free nails. Remove any old nail polish, gel nails, or tips using acetone. Choose natural or clear tips in your desired shape and length. Roughen the surface of your natural nails and the tips with a buffing block. Apply the gel from your cuticle to the free edge of the fake nail tip. Cure the gel under a UV or LED lamp.
To fill in gel nails, start by filing the cuticle area with a 100/180 grit file to remove any lifted product and to roughen the surface so the new gel will adhere. File down the old product until it is invisible, being careful not to file the natural nail. After filing, cleanse the nails with a disinfectant to dehydrate the nail plate. Apply the new gel thinly across the entire nail and cure under a UV lamp.
Gels are thinner and more flexible than acrylics, creating a more natural look. Gels also do not require the same level of buffing and electronic filing for adhesion and removal, which can be damaging to natural nails.
Gel nails with tips can last up to three weeks. At that point, you can either fill in the area between the cuticle and the nail outgrowth or remove them and start over.
Wrap old gel nails in acetone-soaked cotton pads and scrape off the gel. Soak any remaining nail glue and tips in acetone.
