Isla Bennett
Maintaining nail health is an important aspect of self-care. Nails that are too long can harbour dirt and bacteria, leading to infections. Cutting and filing nails can help prevent common issues like hangnails and ingrown toenails. However, it is important to cut and file nails correctly to prevent them from splitting, breaking or peeling. Nails can be cut using clippers or manicure scissors, or filed down with an emery board or glass nail file. Nails should be cut straight across, and filed with long swipes from the outside corners towards the centre to smooth and shape them. Filing nails when they are soft after a shower or bath can make them less likely to split.
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What You'll Learn
Cut nails after a shower or bath, and always before filing
Cutting your nails after a shower or bath is a great way to ensure they are softened and easier to trim. This is also a good time to cut your nails as they are less likely to split. Use nail clippers to cut each nail straight across with multiple cuts.
If your nails are very long, you may want to use a cutting tool like clippers or manicure scissors. If your nails are already short, you can simply file them. Filing nails that are too long can cause too much stress on the nail, encouraging breakage or splitting.
When filing, use a file with a higher grit number, such as a 180 or 240 grit, to prevent tearing. File from one of the outside corners toward the centre. Do not file back and forth in a sawing motion, as this can fray and damage the nail bed and cuticle.
After cutting and filing, remember to moisturise your nails and skin with a lotion. This will help bring moisture back into your nails, preventing splits and breakage. It is especially important to moisturise in dry weather, as dry nails split more easily.
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Use the right file—a higher grit number prevents tearing
The numbers on nail files refer to the grit grade, with lower numbers indicating a coarser grit and a more abrasive file. For example, a 100-grit file is pretty coarse and abrasive, and is typically used for heavy-duty filing and shaping.
For natural nails, a grit ranging from 180-240 is best. A 180-grit file is the most delicate type of the three mentioned above (100, 150, and 180) and is used for finishing filing on acrylic nails or for shaping and shortening natural nails. The finer granules of 180-grit nail files provide a much gentler filing action, making them perfect for smoothing out edges and giving your nails that perfect shape without causing any damage. A 240-grit nail file is even more delicate and perfect for filing the natural nail and also removing the shine from the natural nail during nail prep.
If your nails are very soft or damaged, a 240-grit file may be better. A 180-grit file should be fine for shaping the natural nail edge, but a 240-grit file will be gentler.
Buffers have numbers, too, and are made with sponge, making them more delicate and softer than a hard file. A buffer with a grit of 400-900 is considered extra fine and is used for finishing, removing ridges and stains, and prepping for buffing and shining. A buffer with a grit of 1000-4000 will feel smooth and is used to create a high shine on natural nails and enhancements.
If you are removing gel polish, a 100-180 grit file is recommended to break the surface before coming in with acetone remover. A 100-grit file is used for heavier filing and removing the bulk of the gel, while a 180-grit file is used for finer filing, smoothing, and finishing the removal process.
If you are filing your natural nails, aim for files in the 200-240 grit range or a file labelled as a "medium grit".
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File in one direction, from the outside corners to the centre
When filing your nails, it's important to file in one direction, starting from the outside corners and moving towards the centre. This technique helps to prevent nail damage and splitting.
First, it is recommended to cut your nails before filing, especially if you have longer nails. Cutting your nails first reduces the stress on the nail, which can otherwise encourage breakage or splitting. Use a cutting tool like clippers or manicure scissors to trim your nails to the desired length. Avoid biting your nails, as this can peel away layers of keratin, weakening the nail edge and making it prone to breakage.
Next, choose the right nail file. For natural nails, opt for a higher grit number, such as 180 or 240 grit, to prevent tearing. Emery boards, made of ground crystal, are a popular choice for their fine grit and gentle action on the nails. Glass nail files often have a grit of 240 or higher, making them a suitable option as well.
Now, you can begin the filing process. Hold your hand towards your face, with your wrist underside up and nails bent towards you. This position makes it easier to observe the nails as you work. Starting from one of the outside corners, file towards the centre in a smooth, unidirectional motion. Avoid filing back and forth in a sawing motion, as this can fray and damage the nail, leading to potential nail bed and cuticle issues.
By filing in one direction from the outside corners to the centre, you create a smooth nail edge. This technique helps prevent your nails from catching on fabrics or other surfaces, reducing the chances of nail splitting and breakage.
Finally, remember to moisturize your nails and skin after filing. Moisturizing helps maintain nail flexibility and prevents dryness, reducing the likelihood of nail splits and breakage.
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Avoid filing too deeply into the corners and sides
Filing your nails is an important step in nail care as it helps shape your nails and prevents them from catching onto things like clothing or furniture. However, it is crucial to avoid filing too deeply into the corners and sides of your nails as this can weaken them and make them more prone to splitting and breakage.
When filing your nails, use gentle, long swipes to smooth out and shape the nail. Start from one of the outside corners and file towards the center. Avoid using a back-and-forth sawing motion across the entire nail tip, as this can damage the nail, including the nail bed and cuticle. Filing your nails in this way can cause fraying and encourage nail breakage or splitting, especially if you have longer nails.
To avoid over-filing, it is recommended to trim your nails with a cutting tool such as clippers or manicure scissors before filing. This is especially important if you have longer nails, as taking down the length with just a file can cause too much stress on the nail. When trimming, cut your nails straight across, and then use a nail file to slightly round the nails at the corners. This will help keep them strong and prevent them from catching on things.
Additionally, it is important to use the right type of nail file. For natural nails, opt for a higher grit number to prevent tearing. A glass nail file with a grit of 240 or more is a good choice as it is very gentle on your nails. Emery boards are also convenient, but they tend to wear down quickly due to the grit.
By following these steps and avoiding filing too deeply into the corners and sides, you can help keep your nails strong and healthy while achieving your desired shape.
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Moisturise nails and skin after filing to prevent splits and breakage
Moisturising your nails and skin after filing is essential to prevent splits and breakage. Nails, like skin, require hydration to remain healthy. Dry nails are more prone to breakage, so it's important to keep them moisturised. You can use a good-quality hand cream or cuticle oil to keep your hands and nails hydrated. Coconut oil is also a great natural alternative, which can help treat cracked and brittle nails, and is a natural anti-inflammatory—perfect if your cuticles are irritated or inflamed.
Applying a lotion with lanolin or alpha-hydroxy acid may also help soothe your nail area. Before bed, try using urea cream or mineral oil on your nails and cuticles, then put on cotton gloves to lock in the moisture. During the day, apply lotion after washing your hands or showering.
If you're looking for an all-over treatment, try a paraffin wax bath at a nail salon or in the comfort of your own home. This will help to moisturise your hands and nails.
In addition to moisturising, it's important to be gentle when filing your nails. Avoid filing back and forth in a sawing motion, as this can fray the nail and damage the nail bed and cuticle. Instead, always file in one direction to prevent weakening the nail structure. It's also a good idea to use the correct file. For natural nails, a higher grit number is best to prevent tearing. Try a 180 grit, or if you're new to filing, a 240 grit.
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Frequently asked questions
If you want to maintain a certain length, trim your nails once or twice a week. If you're trying to grow your nails, cut them less frequently, but always remove any damaged or split edges.
Use a tool that is specifically designed for cutting fingernails or toenails. Opt for high-quality tools as they are less likely to tear or bend your nails. Cut your nails straight across, then use a file to shape them.
File your nails from the outer corner into the centre and repeat on the other side. Avoid using a back-and-forth sawing motion, as this can weaken and damage your nails.
Emery boards are convenient, but they don't last long. Glass nail files are gentle on the nails and less likely to damage them. Metal nail files are very abrasive and should not be used on natural nails.
Moisturise your nails after trimming to keep them flexible and prevent splitting. Use nail oil or cuticle oil to repair frayed nails and prevent future breakage.
