Ava Monroe
Gel nail polish is known for its durability, long-lasting nature, and scratch resistance. However, while it may be harmless, the manicure process and removal can be rough on nails. The curing process involves exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to cancer. Additionally, the chemicals in gel nail polish can cause allergic reactions, such as rashes and hives. Proper removal of gel nail polish is crucial to prevent nail damage, and it is recommended to give nails a break between manicures to allow for recovery.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Durability | Long-lasting, scratch-resistant and rarely chips |
| Application Process | Requires curing under a UV lamp |
| Health Impact | Temporary nail damage, increased risk of skin cancer, skin ageing, DNA damage, and allergic reactions |
| Removal Process | Requires acetone, professional removal recommended to prevent nail damage |
| Maintenance | Requires time and effort, including regular rehydration of nails |
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What You'll Learn
Gel nail polish removal methods
Gel nail polishes are long-lasting and rarely chip. However, they can be difficult to remove and may damage your nails if not done carefully. Here are some methods to safely remove gel nail polish:
Traditional Acetone Method:
- Prepare your work area: Line your work area with plastic wrap to protect it from acetone damage. Place a thick towel on top.
- Protect your skin: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to your cuticles and the skin around your nails. This will act as a barrier against the acetone.
- Cut and prepare the necessary items: Cut 10 squares of aluminum foil, big enough to wrap around each fingertip. If using cotton balls, tear off 10 pieces that fit just the nail bed of each nail.
- Break the seal of the topcoat: Use a coarse nail file to gently file down the gel topcoat until it is no longer shiny and smooth. Be careful not to file down to the natural nail.
- Soak in acetone: Soak cotton balls in acetone and apply them to your nails by wrapping small pieces of aluminum foil around your fingertips. Ensure only your nails come into contact with the acetone.
- Remove the polish: After about 15 minutes, gently push the gel polish off each nail using a metal cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick. If the polish is stubborn, soak the nails in acetone for another 5 minutes.
- Clean and moisturize: Wash your hands with gentle, fragrance-free soap and water to remove the acetone. Gently rub petroleum jelly into your cuticles and the skin around your nails for the next seven days to reduce any irritation.
Alternative Methods:
- Nail Polish Remover Clips: Soak off gel nail polish removers are a popular alternative to acetone. They are simple to use, require fewer tools, and are less damaging to nails. Apply a thick layer of gel polish remover to your gel nails, wait for about 5 minutes, and then gently push the gel polish off with a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick.
- Double Bowl Hot Water & Acetone Technique: This method involves using a special bowl with a removable bottom. Place hot water in the bottom section and acetone in the top section to warm it. Soak your nails in the acetone, and then use a "triangle-shaped scraper" to remove the gel polish.
- Letting Nails Grow Out: Dr. Lipner suggests that letting your nails grow out is another safe way to remove gel nail polish. Clip your nails once a week to help remove the gel polish gradually and prevent catching on objects.
- Peel-off Base: Using a peel-off base coat allows you to easily lift off the gel polish from your nails without the need for acetone or other removal methods.
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The curing process and UV exposure
UV light plays a critical role in the polymerisation process. It activates photoinitiators, which are added to the gel formula. These photoinitiators absorb UV light, become energised, and trigger a chain reaction that causes the monomers to link together and form polymers. The level of UV radiation emitted by nail lamps is typically low, and exposure time is generally short, ranging from a few seconds to 5-10 minutes per service.
To achieve proper curing, several factors must be considered: the range of UV wavelengths, the intensity of the emitted wavelengths, the duration of UV exposure, and the thickness of the gel polish or enhancement. Inadequate curing, known as under curing, can lead to reduced durability, cracking, and an increased risk of adverse skin reactions. Therefore, it is crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions and ensure proper curing to minimise potential issues.
While gel nail polish offers durability and a long-lasting shine, concerns have been raised about the potential risks associated with UV exposure during the curing process. Dermatologists recommend taking precautions to minimise these risks, such as wearing sunscreen on the hands before a gel manicure to protect against skin cancer and premature skin ageing caused by UV radiation. Additionally, it is advised to ensure that manicure tools are sterilised and disinfected after each client to maintain hygiene and prevent infections.
The use of LED lamps during the curing process has been suggested as a safer alternative. LED lamps are more focused and energy-efficient, utilising more violet light wavelengths. However, it is important to note that all nail lamps, including those with LEDs, emit UV radiation. Therefore, it is recommended to limit UV exposure and allow time between manicures for nails to recover.
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Chemicals in gel nail polish
Gel nail polishes are beloved for their quick-drying, long-lasting, and chip-resistant properties. However, their convenience and durability come at a cost to nail health. The curing process involves exposure to ultraviolet light, which can lead to skin ageing and increase the risk of skin cancer. Additionally, gel nail polishes contain various chemicals that can cause allergic reactions and other adverse effects.
One of the primary chemicals found in gel nail polishes is butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), a synthetic antioxidant used as a preservative, mainly in the food industry, to prevent oils from becoming rancid. While BHA is commonly used in medicines and cosmetics, studies have linked BHA intake to an increased risk of stomach cancer. The external use of BHA is still being studied, but caution is advised, especially for those with a tendency to put their fingers in their mouths or bite their nails.
Gel polishes also contain acrylates and methacrylates, which are polymer plastics. These substances have been associated with allergic contact dermatitis, as demonstrated by a study involving over 114,000 patients, including nail artists and cosmetologists. Among this subgroup, 47.1% reacted to at least one acrylate and/or methacrylate.
Another harsh chemical commonly associated with gel nail polish removal is acetone. Soaking nails in acetone and electrical filing can cause nails to become thinner and more brittle, and there have been reports of nerve damage associated with electrical filing. To safely remove gel nail polish, it is recommended to use nail polish remover clips or cotton balls soaked in acetone, wrapped in aluminium foil, to minimise contact with the skin.
The "Toxic Trio" of chemicals—dibutyl phthalate, toluene, and formaldehyde—have also been identified in some nail polishes, further emphasising the importance of choosing non-toxic and clean nail polish options.
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Nail damage and nail health
Gel nail polishes are known to cause temporary nail damage, but the cumulative UV exposure is worse. The curing process involves repeated exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to cancer. Dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands before getting a gel manicure to prevent skin cancer and premature skin ageing.
Gel nail polishes contain acrylate and methacrylate, which are known to cause allergic reactions such as rashes (contact dermatitis) and, less commonly, hives (urticaria). Removing gel polish can also temporarily damage your nails if not done carefully. Cracking, peeling, white spots, grooves, and an overall weakening of the nail plate are common issues. These problems can take months to resolve as the damaged nail grows out. Gel polish can leave your nails dry and brittle, especially if you don't allow time between manicures for your nails to recover.
To maintain nail health before, during, and after gel manicures, dermatologists recommend the following: Be proactive with your manicurist by asking if their tools are sterilised and ensuring they clean and disinfect them after each client. Avoid letting your manicurist push or cut your cuticles, as this can lead to inflammation and infection. If you have recurring nail problems or are allergic to acetone, consider traditional nail polish instead of gel polish, as acetone is required to remove gel polish.
When removing gel nail polish, only soak your fingertips in acetone or use cotton balls soaked in acetone and wrapped in aluminium foil to protect the surrounding skin. Make an appointment with your manicurist to have the polish removed safely. To care for your nails between gel manicures, take a nail polish break and apply a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly, to your nails and cuticles several times daily to minimise brittleness and prevent chipping.
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Pros and cons of gel nail polish
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for many nail art enthusiasts, with its ability to mimic the look and feel of natural nails. It is widely available and can be purchased in most beauty outlets and online. It is also offered in most nail salons worldwide.
Pros of Gel Nail Polish
Gel nail polish is long-lasting, rarely chips, and dries quickly. It is also flexible, which means that, unlike acrylic nails, it gives instead of tearing at your nail bed. It is also available in a wide range of colours and styles, from a timeless French manicure to more creative looks.
Cons of Gel Nail Polish
The curing process of gel nail polish involves exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to skin cancer. It is also important to note that gel nail polish contains chemicals that can cause allergic reactions, such as contact dermatitis and hives.
In addition, the removal process can be tricky, and if not done carefully, can temporarily damage your nails. To safely remove gel nail polish, it is recommended to only soak your fingertips in acetone and to use nail polish remover clips to protect your nails.
Precautions
To minimise the potential risks associated with gel nail polish, it is advisable to limit the frequency of gel manicures and allow time for your nails to recover between treatments. Applying a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly, to your nails and cuticles can help to minimise brittleness and prevent chipping.
When getting a gel manicure, you can bring your own sunscreen and ask your manicurist to apply it before the nail-painting process. It is also important to ensure that your manicurist sterilises their tools and disinfects them after each client.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail polish is known to be highly durable, long-lasting, and scratch-resistant. It dries quickly, lasts for weeks, and rarely chips.
The chemicals and removal process can be damaging to nails. The curing process involves exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to skin cancer. Additionally, gel polish contains acrylate and methacrylate, which can cause allergic reactions such as hives and contact dermatitis.
To minimise the risks, it is recommended to space out gel manicures and allow nails to recover. When removing gel polish, it is important to do so with care, such as by soaking nails in acetone or using professional removal services, to prevent nail damage. Applying moisturising products to nails and cuticles can also help minimise brittleness and prevent chipping.
