Liam Carter
Gel manicures are a great, long-lasting option for those who want to avoid the hassle of frequent polish applications. While gel manicures are more durable than traditional polish, they are not entirely impervious to chipping and snagging. If you're considering filing your gel nails, it's important to understand the risks involved. Filing or cutting your nails can break the seal between the gel coat and the nail, making your manicure more susceptible to damage and potentially weakening your natural nails over time. To avoid this, it's recommended to get a fresh manicure every two to three weeks, depending on your nail growth and care. However, if you choose to file your gel nails, there are techniques and tools you can use to minimise the risk of damage, such as using a board hand file and filing in one direction.
How to File Gel Nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Filing Technique | File in one direction, not back and forth |
| Filing Angle | File from underneath, parallel to the nail, not perpendicular |
| Filing Amount | File down 90% of the gel nail polish |
| Filing Tools | Emery board file, 150 or 180 grit board file, high grit file, Mylee Half Moon Nail File |
| Filing Timing | File between layers, after curing |
| Filing Purpose | Reshape, fix chips, or prepare for a new manicure |
| Post-filing Care | Buff, wipe, and dehydrate the nail before reapplying polish |
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What You'll Learn
Filing and shaping gel nails
Before you begin filing, it is important to identify the desired shape for your nails. Common nail shapes include oval, almond, square, and stiletto. Choosing a shape that suits your style and the length of your nails is key.
When filing gel nails, it is recommended to use a board hand file or an emery board file. These files are gentle and effective in shaping the nails without causing excessive damage to the gel manicure. Start by finding the middle point of your cuticle and matching it to the center point of the free edge. This will be your guide as you file the sides towards that point. Be sure to file in one direction with gentle strokes to avoid putting too much pressure on the nails.
If you are reshaping your gel manicure, it is important to be cautious. Filing too aggressively can break the seal between the gel coat and the nail, making your manicure more susceptible to chipping and peeling. Instead, focus on gentle reshaping, ensuring that you do not file off the top coat. Filing from underneath the nail, rather than holding the file perpendicular to it, can help smooth the edges without creating a flat edge.
In some cases, you may need to file down your existing gel polish before reshaping. Use a nail file with a suitable grit level, such as 100-grit or 150-grit, to remove the shiny top layer and most of the base gel. File with a back-and-forth motion, applying enough pressure to remove the gel without damaging your natural nail. Remember to wipe away any dust with a lint-free nail wipe after filing.
After filing and shaping your gel nails, it is important to care for your cuticles. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin and trim any dead white skin to neaten the nails. Be sure only to cut dead skin to avoid the risk of infection.
Finally, buff your nails to prepare them for the next steps. Buffing creates a rough texture that enhances the adhesion of the gel to the nail plate. You can use a buffer sanding block or a high-grit file for this step, being careful not to over-buff your natural nails. Once you've finished buffing, wipe down the nail plate to remove any remaining dust, dirt, or oils.
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Buffing and reapplying a top coat
Buffing your nails before applying a new top coat is a crucial step in the gel nail process. It helps to create a smooth and even surface for the new polish to adhere to, ensuring a flawless finish. Here is a detailed guide on buffing and reapplying a top coat to your gel nails:
Buffing Your Nails:
Before you begin buffing, it is important to have the right tools. Use a buffer block or a nail file with the appropriate grit. A fine-grit or high-grit file is recommended for buffing gel nails. The grit number indicates the roughness of the file, with higher numbers being finer. Avoid using a buffer that is too smooth, as it may not be effective in buffing away the previous gel polish.
When buffing your nails, pay attention to any leftover polish stuck to the nail plate and any flakes that may prevent the new gel from looking smooth. Buff away imperfections and focus on the free edge, which is the top end of your nail. This step helps remove excess gel polish and ensures a clean surface for the new application. Be gentle and buff in one direction to avoid splitting or lifting, which can occur from aggressive back-and-forth motions.
Reapplying the Top Coat:
Once you have finished buffing, it's time to apply a new top coat. The top coat serves as the final seal, protecting your gel nails from chipping and external elements. It provides the signature long-lasting shine or matte finish associated with gel nails. Apply a thin layer of the top coat, sealing the free edge to prevent chipping.
After applying the top coat, cure your nails under a UV or LED lamp. The curing process hardens the gel polish and ensures its longevity. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for curing time, as it may vary depending on the lamp and gel polish used.
If you notice any lumps or unevenness after curing, you can gently buff the surface with a high-grit file and then apply another layer of the top coat to achieve a smooth finish. This process can be repeated as needed until you achieve the desired results.
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Using nail clippers
If you have been using clippers for years, you will have a good grip and will be able to angle the clippers easily. However, it is important to note that any clipping or cutting of gel nail polish could result in a broken seal, which is one of the reasons why nail polish cracks or lifts.
To successfully cut gel nails with nail clippers, first rinse your hands properly to remove any lotions or oils. Then, cut each nail to the appropriate length. After clipping, the next step is filing. Using an emery board, gently file your nails down using a side-to-side motion to form the desired shape. If the cut nail has lost its natural curve, using the file can help create and mimic the arch.
It is important to note that if you are not a trained professional, you could cause more harm than good when attempting to cut or file gel nails. The best thing you can do for gel nails is to care for them properly and get a fresh manicure every two to three weeks, depending on how fast your nails grow and how well you look after them.
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The risks of filing gel nails
Filing gel nails can cause various forms of damage to your natural nails. Firstly, the mechanical action of filing can be harmful, especially if the wrong type of file is used. Files meant for artificial nails should not be used on natural nails, as they can be too rough and cause damage. Forcefully filing or scraping off the gel product can also cause mechanical damage to the nail.
Another risk to the nail's health is the prolonged application of gel nails. It is recommended that gel nails are not left on for longer than two to three weeks, as the weight of the product can start to pull on the edge of the nail, causing tears in the base. This can lead to the nail lifting and peeling back, which causes further mechanical damage to the nail.
The use of tools to file and remove gel nails can also pose a risk of infection if they are not properly sterilised. In addition, the curing process of gel nails involves exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which has been linked to skin ageing and an increased risk of skin cancer. This risk is cumulative and increases with repeated exposure. While the risk of cancer is currently considered low, it is still present, and there is ongoing research in this area.
Finally, gel nail polish contains various chemicals, such as methacrylates and acrylates, which can cause allergic reactions in some people, including skin rashes, breathing difficulties, and in some cases, nail loss. Therefore, it is important to be aware of the potential risks associated with filing and removing gel nails and to take the necessary precautions to minimise these risks.
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How to reshape gel nails
Reshaping gel nails can be a delicate process, and it's important to be careful not to damage the nail or the manicure. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to reshape your gel nails:
First, it is recommended to use nail nippers to cut the corners of the nail diagonally. It is important to cut less than you think you need, as you can always file more if required. Cutting too much can cause issues with the seal between the gel coat and the nail, making your manicure more susceptible to damage.
Next, you will want to start filing the sides. To do this, find the middle point of your cuticle and match it to the centre point of the free edge. This will be your guide as you file the sides towards that point. Be sure to file gently and in one direction to avoid splitting or lifting, which can be caused by filing back and forth. If you are using a board hand file, place it under the nail rather than on top to avoid filing off the top coat.
If you are reshaping a French tip nail, be aware that you will break the seal on the white tip, and it may start collecting pigment.
Once you are happy with the shape, use a dry brush to dust off the nails. Then, wet the brush with 90% alcohol and dust them off again, remembering to brush under the nails.
It is important to note that filing or cutting gel nails can potentially damage the manicure and weaken the nails. If you are unsure, it may be best to seek the help of a professional nail technician.
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Frequently asked questions
Filing your gel nails can be tricky as it may destroy your manicure. If you want to file your nails, it is recommended to use a 150- or 180-grit board file and file in one direction to reshape the sides of your nails. Be sure to be gentle and only file when necessary, as filing can break the seal between the gel coat and your nail, making your manicure more susceptible to damage.
To avoid damaging your gel manicure, it is best to avoid using nail clippers and instead use a board hand file to reshape your nails. Place the file under your nail and bring it in, so you do not file off the top coat. File gently and in one direction to avoid splitting or lifting, which can occur when filing back and forth.
Yes, you can file your gel nails once they are fully cured. It is recommended to buff the shine off your first top coat to ensure that the next coat sticks. File from underneath and parallel to your nail to smooth the edges without creating a flat edge.
To infill your gel nails at home, first file down your existing gel polish using a nail file. Remove around 90% of the gel, including the shiny top layer, to create a neat surface. Then, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin and trim any dead skin. Next, buff your nails to create a rough texture, being careful not to over-buff your natural nails. Finally, wipe your nails with a lint-free wipe and use a nail prep dehydrator to remove any remaining dust, dirt, or oils before applying a new layer of gel polish.
To reshape your gel manicure, start by finding the middle point of your cuticle and matching it to the center point of the free edge. This will be your guide for filing the sides. Use an emery board file and file gently in one direction to avoid damage. Visualize an imaginary rectangle on your nail to help guide your filing.
