Isla Bennett
Gel nail extensions have become increasingly popular for achieving longer and stronger nails. They are considered a healthier alternative to acrylic nails, offering a lightweight and natural-looking finish. While long nails have been popular due to celebrities like the Kardashians, short nails are also trendy, as seen at New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2020. Applying gel nails on short nails can be challenging, especially with bitten or super short nails, as there needs to be enough nail bed for the extensions to adhere to and not fall off quickly. However, with the right techniques, such as the spill method or cap in reverse method, and products, it is possible to have stylish and long-lasting gel nails even on short nails.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Time taken | 1-2 hours |
| Healthier alternative | Yes |
| Natural-looking finish | Yes |
| Lightweight | Yes |
| Natural nail bed required | Yes |
| Application process | Technician prepares the nails by filing, cleaning, and buffing them. Then, they apply a form underneath the natural nail to create the length one by one with a gel builder, a gel primer, and a gel top coat. |
| Removal process | A nail technician will file down about 85% of the extension. Then, they will soak off the remaining gel in an acetone wrap with aluminum foil and wait 15 minutes. |
| Longevity | 2-5 weeks |
| Cost | $80-$125 |
| Techniques | The Cap in Reverse Method, The Spill Method |
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What You'll Learn
The 'spill method'
The spill method is a technique used to apply gel nails on short nails. It involves grabbing a nail form and allowing all the gel layers to overflow by about 2 mm to the free-form. This method is creative and allows for a unique look. However, it should be approached with caution as it can cause the gel to oxidize and turn brown at the tip if a soft gel texture or gel polish is used. This technique should only be used on clients who are not allergic to the products.
To use the spill method, start by grabbing a nail form and applying a gel base. You can use either a soft gel or a semi-hard gel. If you're using a semi-hard gel, the Kokoist 2-in-1 Bonding Duo in a bottle is a great option as it is easy to apply and can be soaked off completely. With the brush, wipe off most of the product, leaving only a small amount in the bristles. Then, apply the gel base upside down, allowing it to seep over the edge.
The spill method is a unique technique that can give your nails a creative and eye-catching look. However, it is important to be cautious and avoid using certain types of gels to prevent oxidation and discolouration. Additionally, always ensure that your client is not allergic to the products before proceeding with this method.
Overall, the spill method is a fun and creative way to apply gel nails on short nails, but it requires careful consideration and knowledge of the products being used. It is a technique that can add a unique touch to your gel nail application.
The spill method is an advanced technique, and it is important to be aware of potential issues such as allergies and oxidation. It is always recommended to prioritize the safety and satisfaction of your clients, so proper precautions and product knowledge are essential when considering this method.
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The 'cap in reverse method'
Capping the free edge is when you paint the end of your nail with the polish applicator brush. This is important in ensuring you have a longer-lasting, chip-free manicure. By painting the free edge, you will give your manicure a protective layer.
The Cap in Reverse Method is a technique used to cap the free edge of short nails. This method involves using a base gel, which can be soft gel or semi-hard, and can be in a bottle or potted form. First, dip your brush into the gel product and wipe off most of the product without using much pressure. Then, apply the gel base upside down, allowing the gel to seep over the edge enough to cap it. Since there is barely any product on the brush, flooding the skin with gel should not be an issue.
The Cap in Reverse Method is a straightforward and effective way to apply gel to short nails. It is important to note that this method should only be used on clients who are not allergic to the products being used. After applying the base gel, you can proceed to apply two layers of your preferred colour and then add a top gel.
It is worth noting that there is an ongoing debate in the nail industry about whether it is better to file the free edge after application or to cap the free edge. Filing the free edge helps to prevent lifting by removing excess product, resulting in a longer-lasting and more durable manicure. However, capping the free edge provides a protective layer that can extend the wear time of the manicure. Ultimately, the decision to use the Cap in Reverse Method or finish filing depends on the preference of the client and the nail technician.
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Using nail forms
Nail forms are used to alter your nail shape and add length. The process of using nail forms takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how much length you want to add and how neatly you apply the gel.
Firstly, prepare your nails by removing any traces of old nail polish or gel. File the nail surface to make it rough, so the gel has something to grip on to. Push back your cuticles and wipe your nails with a cleanser.
Next, apply the nail forms. Take one sticker at a time and peel off the backing. Poke out the hole if the circular part doesn't stay on the backing. Adjust the form to fit your nail tip tightly. Push the tip edges of the form together so they keep their curve. Move your fingers to see what positions push the nail against the form better, so you can keep that position in the oven later.
Now, apply 2-4 layers of gel, curing them in the oven. Your tip should be quite sturdy before you take the forms off. The form of the nail doesn't have to be perfect, but make sure the surface doesn't have huge bumps and pay attention to the nail edges. Make the tips a bit longer than you want so you can file off any wonky edges.
Finally, take off the nail forms. Nip the forms in from the edges so they will pull down gently. Wipe your nails with cleanser and file them into shape.
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Gel nail extensions
To start the gel nail extension process, the nail technician will first prepare the nails by filing, cleaning, and buffing them. They will then push back the cuticles and remove any hangnails, shaping the nails and drying them with acetone or rubbing alcohol. A primer is then applied to improve adhesion.
There are two common methods for applying gel nail extensions. The first method uses a "Perfect Fit Form," which fits under the nail, allowing the technician to sculpt the tips onto the free edge of the nail by applying a gel builder. The second method involves using "Fast Forms," which are pre-shaped nail tips that are formed off the hand and then adhered to the natural nail with gel. These come in various sizes and shapes, such as stiletto, round, coffin, and square.
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Removal techniques
Gel nail extensions can be removed at home or by a nail technician. However, experts recommend letting a professional handle the removal process to prevent damage to your nails.
If you opt for a salon removal, a nail technician will file down about 85% of the extension. They will then soak off the remaining gel in acetone wrapped with aluminium foil and wait 15 minutes. Afterward, they will gently push off the product and buff the natural nail.
If you choose to remove your gel nails at home, there are two main methods: the traditional method and using a gel nail polish remover. The traditional method involves using acetone, cotton balls or pads, aluminium foil, a cuticle pusher, and a nail file. First, use a coarse nail file to file down the gel top coat layer until it is no longer shiny and smooth. Next, cut the cotton balls or strips to the size of each nail. Soak each piece of cotton in acetone and place it on top of the corresponding nail. Wrap each nail with plastic food wrap or aluminium foil to create a tight seal and wait 10 to 15 minutes. Finally, gently push off the gel polish with a metal cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick.
As an alternative to the traditional method, you can use a gel nail polish remover. This method requires fewer tools and is faster and less damaging to the nails. Simply apply a thick layer of gel polish remover to your gel nails, wait 5 minutes, and then use a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently remove the gel polish. Finish by cleaning your nails with a nail buffer.
Regardless of the removal method, it is important to take steps to protect your nails and skin. Before starting the removal process, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or cuticle oil to the cuticles and surrounding skin to create a protective barrier. Additionally, work on one hand at a time to avoid accidentally smudging the acetone or remover. Choose a well-ventilated area and cover your work surface with a cloth to avoid stains and protect against acetone damage.
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Frequently asked questions
Nail technicians prepare the nails by filing, cleaning, and buffing them. They also push back cuticles and remove any hangnails.
Hard gels are better for short nails than soft gels because they are less likely to turn brown at the tips. Kokoist semi-hard gels are a good option, as they are easy to apply and can be filed down and soaked off.
The spill method is recommended for short nails. This involves allowing the gel to overflow onto a nail form by about 2mm.
Gel nails on short nails can last anywhere from two to five weeks, depending on the skill of the nail technician and how oily the client's nails are.
