Isla Bennett
Gel nails are a long-lasting manicure option that uses a specific type of nail polish cured with a UV or LED lamp. The process of refilling gel nails, also known as retouching, involves maintaining the nail extensions as the natural nail continues to grow. This typically occurs after 3-4 weeks to prevent the stress point and weight of the gel from projecting towards the tip of the nail, causing cracks or loosening. During a refill, the gel is almost entirely removed, and the nail surface is prepared by roughening it with a file. A new extension is then applied, followed by the desired shape, colour, and design requested by the customer. It is important to use the correct gel products meant for long-term wear and to protect the natural nail bed to prevent damage and weakening.
How are gel nails refilled?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to refill | After 3-4 weeks, when the natural nail has grown and the extended part with the gel nail moves away from the cuticles |
| What to do | The gel is almost entirely eliminated and the customer can choose to modify the shape, color, and design |
| Time taken | Approximately 1 hour and a half for a skilled nail technician |
| Removal process | The gel nails color and builder gel are removed gently, avoiding unnecessary pressure on the nail surface |
| Residuals | Any filling residuals are eliminated by dusting the fingers and hand with a fan nail art brush |
| Nail surface preparation | The nail surface is roughened with a stone nail file for the preparation phase |
| Gel application | Each coat of gel polish is placed under a UV or LED light for 30 seconds to 2 minutes to cure and harden |
| Removal of gel | Gels must be removed by soaking nails in acetone for at least 10 minutes |
| Nail health | Over-prepping natural nails can cause them to weaken and damage, so it is important to leave some gel on the nails between fills |
| Protection | Using a builder gel adds protection to natural nails and prevents over-filing |
| Sun protection | The UVA light from nail lamps can be strong, so it is recommended to use sunscreen or UV-protective gloves during manicures |
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What You'll Learn
The refill process
To begin the refill process, the nail technician will gently remove the gel nail colour and builder gel, being careful not to apply unnecessary pressure to the nail surface. A nail drill can be used to aid in this step. Once the gel is removed, any residual filling can be eliminated by dusting the fingers and hand with a fan nail art brush.
The next step is to prepare the nail surface for the new extension. This involves roughening the nail surface with a stone nail file to ensure that the new gel adheres properly. It is important to note that over-buffing the nails before gel application can damage the natural nail, so this step should be done with care.
After the nail surface is prepared, the new gel extension can be applied. This process involves applying a gel base, colour, and top coat, curing each layer under a UV or LED light for 30 seconds to two minutes. The final result is a glossy, long-lasting manicure.
It is recommended to leave 10-20% of the gel manicure on the nails during the refill process to protect the natural nail and provide a strong base for the new gel layer. This helps prevent damage to the natural nail and allows for continuous nail growth without breaking.
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The risks of gel nails
While gel nails can be aesthetically pleasing, they can also cause several unexpected health issues. The curing process of gel manicures involves hardening the gel using ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to skin cancer. This is true regardless of the type of lamp used, as even LED lamps emit UV radiation.
Additionally, gel nail polishes contain several chemicals that can be harmful, such as acrylate and methacrylate, which are known to cause allergic reactions like contact dermatitis and, less commonly, hives. The process of removing gel polish can also temporarily damage nails if not done carefully. It is important to avoid picking at the polish or using other nails or tools to remove it, as this can further damage the nails. Instead, it is recommended to have the gel polish removed by a manicurist or by carefully soaking the fingertips in acetone.
Furthermore, the prolonged wearing of gel nails can lead to pseudo-psoriatic nails, where extra skin growth under the nail resembles psoriasis. Some individuals with pseudo-psoriatic nails have also tested positive for an allergy to methyl methacrylate, which can cause permanent loss of fingernails in severe cases. Others have experienced peripheral neuropathy, characterised by tingling or numbness in the fingers, which can also be permanent.
The cumulative UV exposure from regular gel manicures, typically done every few weeks, significantly increases the risk of UV-induced skin damage. This is particularly true for the back of the hands, which is often unprotected by clothing and is one of the most common places people forget to apply sunscreen. Therefore, it is recommended to reduce UV exposure by applying sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to the hands before a gel manicure appointment and wearing dark, fingerless gloves during the procedure.
In addition to the health risks, gel nail refills also require periodic maintenance. After 3-4 weeks, the natural nail growth can cause the extended nail to move away from the cuticles, leading to an unaesthetic appearance. During the refilling process, the gel is usually removed, and the customer can choose to modify the shape, colour, and design according to their preferences.
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Retouching vs refill
Retouching and refilling are both methods of maintaining gel nail extensions. They are required when the natural nail starts to grow out, causing the extended part with the gel nails to move away from the cuticles. This usually happens after about 3-4 weeks, but the exact period varies according to the different growth rates and the care of the customer's nails.
Retouching
Retouching, also called a refill, is the periodic maintenance required for any type of nail extension treatment. It involves removing the gel nails colour and builder gel, dusting the fingers and hands, and then starting the process of a new extension. This process can take up to 1 hour and a half for a skilled nail technician. During retouching, the customer may decide to modify the shape, colour, and design of the previous appointment.
Refill
A refill is a method of covering up gel nail regrowth without fully removing the gel. It involves matching, blending, and curing the gels, reshaping the nails, and removing any nicks and chips. Refills can be done at home by adding regular nail polish to the regrowth gap or using glitter polish to create exciting and creative looks. Refills can also be done professionally, which can help prolong the life of the manicure for a few more weeks.
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The tools and products used
Firstly, it is recommended to use a gel product that is designed to be worn for extended periods. A builder gel or sculpting gel is necessary for refills, as it protects the natural nail and can be built up to create length. These gels are stronger and more flexible than regular nail polishes, allowing them to withstand chipping and everyday wear and tear.
Before a refill, the existing gel nails should be gently removed, taking care not to apply unnecessary pressure to the natural nail. A nail drill can be used to remove the gel nail colour and builder gel. Any residual gel can be eliminated with a fan nail art brush.
To prepare the natural nail for the refill, it should be buffed and wiped down with alcohol, allowing the new polish to adhere better and preventing lifting and peeling. A stone nail file can be used to roughen the nail surface during the preparation phase.
Each coat of the new gel polish is then cured under a UV or LED light for between 30 seconds and two minutes. This dries and hardens the polish, creating a glossy and long-lasting finish.
It is important to note that UV nail lamps emit harmful UV rays, so some sources suggest using a broad-spectrum sunscreen or UV-protective gloves during the manicure process.
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The advantages of gel nails
Gel nail polish has become a staple in the nail industry and is one of the most popular types of nail polish. Its popularity can be attributed to the following advantages:
Longevity
Gel nail polish can last for several weeks without chipping or peeling, with an average lifespan of 2 to 3 weeks. This means you can forget about nail upkeep for almost 3 weeks while feeling your best.
Quick Drying
Gel nail polish dries quickly, often in just 60 seconds to 2 minutes under a UV or LED lamp. This eliminates the need to wait for the polish to air-dry and removes the risk of smudging or denting your manicure before it has set.
Natural Appearance
Gel nails are designed to mimic the look of natural nails while offering the strength of acrylic nails. They provide a glossy finish that does not dull or fade over time, ensuring your nails look freshly manicured throughout their lifespan.
Customizable
Gel nail polish is highly customizable, allowing you to achieve a wide range of looks, from a timeless French manicure to more creative and wild designs. You can also modify the shape, colour, and design during refill appointments without any issues.
Nail Strengthening
High-quality gel polishes can help strengthen and protect your natural nails by reinforcing them. This is especially beneficial if you desire longer nails, as the gel provides additional support and durability.
Wide Availability
Gel nail services are widely available in nail salons around the world, making it convenient for enthusiasts to maintain their nail care routine.
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Frequently asked questions
It is recommended that you get a gel refill after 3-4 weeks. This is to avoid the stress point and the bead of the extended nail being projected towards the tip of the nail, compromising the structure of the extension and causing cracks.
During a gel refill, the gel colour is removed and the gel is reapplied. The gel is eliminated by soaking the nails in acetone for at least 10 minutes. The customer can then decide to modify the shape, colour and design.
Gel refills prevent overprepping of the natural nail. By leaving 10-20% of the gel manicure on the nails, the natural nails have a protective layer. This prevents damage such as peeling, ripping and breaking.
Yes, gel manicures can weaken your natural nails. If the gel is peeled or pried off the nail, it can strip layers of the natural nail. In addition, the UV light from the nail lamps emits stronger UVA radiation than sunlight, which can cause signs of premature ageing.
