
Gel nails have become a popular alternative to traditional manicures, offering a longer-lasting and shinier finish. The process involves applying a gel-like substance that is cured under UV or LED light, creating a hard, durable layer on the nails. This curing process involves a chemical reaction called polymerization, where small molecules called monomers join together to form long chains, known as polymers. While gel nails have revolutionised the manicure industry, it's important to be aware of potential risks, such as UV exposure and chemical interactions with natural nails.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Composition | Methacrylate compounds, photoinitiator compounds, plasticizers, inorganic or organic pigments, and stabilizers |
| Application | A base coat is applied, followed by a thin layer of gel polish. Each layer is cured under a UV or LED lamp |
| Removal | Requires breaking the strong covalent bonds formed during the curing process, typically using acetone |
| Pros | Durable, flexible, long-lasting shine, quick-drying, chip-resistant, versatile, affordable |
| Cons | Potential chemical interactions with natural nails, exposure to radiation, skin irritation, and sensitization |
| Safety Considerations | Use of sterile tools, application of sunscreen, avoiding peeling or use of mechanical instruments for removal |
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What You'll Learn

The history of gel nails
The practice of colouring nails is thousands of years old. In 3200 BC, Babylonian warriors purportedly spent hours getting their hair curled and their nails manicured before going off to battle. They used kohl to colour their nails, and the colour of their nails may have signified their class. For example, black nails may have been considered a higher rank, whereas green nails were not. In ancient Egypt, mummies dating back over 5,000 years show evidence of nail painting. Around the same time, women in India used henna colours on their fingernails, and men in ancient Babylon wore blue nails. In 3000 BC, the Chinese used nail colour to indicate rank and dynasty. The upper classes may have used ingredients like beeswax, Arabic gum, and egg whites for nail colour.
In the 20th century, the modern nail polish industry began to emerge. In 1920, makeup artist Michelle Menard wanted to create a glossy nail lacquer that mimicked the shine on automobiles. She eventually perfected her formula, which gained popularity among flappers, and in 1932 she launched the cosmetic house known today as Revlon. The company sold its nail enamel in a variety of colours at drugstores and department stores for several years before expanding into lipstick and eventually an entire makeup line.
In 1957, dentist Frederick Slack broke a nail at work and used aluminium foil and dental acrylic to repair it. He designed a faux nail that looked realistic, which prompted him to collaborate with his brother to create and patent what we know today as acrylic nails. In the 1970s and 1980s, new nail enhancements came onto the scene, including nail wraps and gel nail polish. Jeff Pink, the American makeup artist and founder of Orly, created the versatile French manicure in 1975. Essie Weingarten developed her collection of nail polishes in the early '80s.
Gel nail polish is formed of methacrylate compounds and photoinitiator compounds like benzoyl peroxide that don't dry but instead adhere to the nail when exposed to UV light. Plasticizers are added to give gel nail polish its strong but flexible nature. Gel manicures are durable, flexible, and almost indestructible, and they are now a staple in nail salons around the world. They can also be bought and used at home with DIY kits.
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How gel nails are made
The process of applying gel nail polish involves several steps and a range of chemical compounds. The natural nail is first cleaned, buffed, and shaped. Then, a base coat is applied, followed by a thin layer of gel polish. Each layer of gel polish is cured under a UV or LED lamp, which hardens the polish and creates a durable coating. This process is repeated for each layer of gel polish, ensuring even curing. The UV light plays a crucial role in activating photoinitiators, such as benzoyl peroxide, which are added to the gel formula.
Upon exposure to UV radiation, the photoinitiators break down into active molecules called free radicals. These free radicals then trigger a chemical reaction, causing the dissolved components of the gel polish to form a stiff and shiny layer on the nail. This process, known as polymerization, involves the linking of small molecules called monomers to form long chains, known as polymers. The interconnected polymer network gives gel nails their chip resistance and staying power.
The composition of gel nail polish includes methacrylate compounds, such as hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) and di-HEMA trimethyl-hexyl dicarbamate, which function as cross-linkers between polymer chains. Plasticizers are also added to give gel nails their strong yet flexible nature. Additionally, pigments in gel nail polish can be inorganic, like iron oxide, or organic. Stabilizers, such as Benzophenone, are also included to prevent discoloration in the sun.
While gel nails offer a longer-lasting and shinier finish than traditional nail polishes, it's important to consider potential chemical interactions and their effects on natural nails. Prolonged use of gel nail polishes can affect the hydration levels of the nail plate, leading to brittleness and weakening. It is recommended to give nails a break between gel manicures and ensure proper nail care to maintain nail health. Additionally, the UV radiation from the curing lamps has been associated with potential skin damage and cancer risks, so adequate protection or alternative methods like opaque gloves are suggested.
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The science of gel nail polish
Gel nail polish is a type of nail coating that requires curing under a UV or LED light to harden and set. Unlike traditional nail polishes that air-dry, gel polishes undergo a chemical process called polymerization when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, transforming from a liquid to a solid state. This process involves the linking of small molecules called monomers to form long chains, known as polymers, resulting in a durable and glossy finish. The key to this transformation lies in the presence of photoinitiators, such as benzoyl peroxide, within the gel formula.
Upon exposure to UV light, photoinitiators absorb the light energy and break down into active molecules called free radicals. These free radicals trigger a chain reaction, causing the monomers in the gel polish to link together and form polymer chains. This process, known as cross-linking, leads to the hardening of the gel polish, creating a strong and long-lasting coating on the nails. The interconnected polymer network gives gel polishes their chip resistance and extended wear.
The process of applying gel nail polish involves multiple thin layers of substance applied to the nails, followed by curing under a UV lamp after each layer. This method ensures even curing and hardening of the gel polish. The use of UV light in gel manicures has raised safety concerns due to the potential risks associated with UV radiation exposure, including skin aging and cancer. However, newer LED curing lamps have been introduced to address these concerns by providing a faster and safer curing process with a narrower wavelength of light.
In addition to photoinitiators, gel nail polishes also contain methacrylate compounds, which can function as cross-linkers between polymer chains. Hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) is a major component in many gel formulas. Other ingredients may include plasticizers, which give gel polishes their strong yet flexible nature, and stabilizers like Benzophenone, which prevent discoloration. While gel manicures offer durability and shine, it is important to be mindful of potential chemical interactions and the impact on the natural nail's hydration levels, which can lead to brittleness and weakening over time.
The popularity of gel nail polish can be attributed to its longevity, quick drying time, and ability to strengthen and protect natural nails. However, it is essential to practice proper nail care and give nails a break between gel manicures to maintain their health. Additionally, being aware of the ingredients and potential risks associated with certain chemicals in gel polishes can help consumers make informed choices when opting for this trendy nail enhancement.
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The pros and cons of gel nails
Gel nail polish is formed of methacrylate compounds and photoinitiator compounds like benzoyl peroxide that don't dry but instead adhere to the nail when exposed to UV light. Plasticizers are added to gel nail polish to give it its strong but flexible nature.
Pros of Gel Nails
Gel nail polish is extremely versatile and is a great way to customize your daily look without having to commit to a full set of acrylics. It is durable, more flexible, and less prone to chipping like normal nail polish. It is also easy to use and quite affordable.
Cons of Gel Nails
The use of UV light to cure the gel manicure increases the risk of skin cancer and causes skin ageing and DNA damage. The British Association of Dermatologists found that 2.4% of people tested at dermatology clinics showed an allergic reaction to at least one methacrylate compound. Removing gel nail polish can also be difficult and may damage your nails.
Precautions
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends carefully choosing your nail salon and making sure sterile tools are used during application. A generous layer of sunscreen should be applied to the palms of the hands before the treatment to prevent damage from the ultraviolet lamp used for drying the gel. It is also important to not peel the polish off the nails, and to limit the contact area of acetone and other nail polish removers with your skin.
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Removing gel nails
If you are removing gel nail polish at home, there are two main methods: the traditional method and with a gel nail polish remover. The traditional method involves using acetone, cotton balls or pads, aluminum foil, a cuticle pusher, and a nail file. Cuticle oil and a nail buffer are extra. First, use a coarse nail file to file down the gel top coat layer until the top coat is no longer shiny and smooth. Then, tear off pieces of cotton ball or pad that fit just the nail bed of each nail. Soak the cotton in acetone and place it on your nail, then wrap your nails in foil. Leave the cotton and foil on for 15 to 20 minutes. When you remove the foil, most or all of the gel nail polish should be gone. Remove any remaining gel nail polish with a washcloth that you’ve just run under warm water. Wash your hands or feet with a gentle, fragrance-free soap and water to remove the acetone. Gently rub petroleum jelly into your cuticles and the skin around your nails every day for seven days to reduce any irritation caused by the acetone.
Alternatively, you can use a gel nail polish remover. Put a thick layer of gel polish remover on your gel nails. Give the remover 5 minutes to soak into the gel nails. Use a metal cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick to gently remove the gel polish from each nail. Then clean your nails with a nail buffer.
It is important to note that you should not pick, peel, or file off gel nail polish, as this can significantly damage your nails and cause white spots.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail polish is made of methacrylate compounds and photoinitiator compounds like benzoyl peroxide. Plasticizers are added to give gel nail polish its strong but flexible nature.
The process of applying gel nails is meticulous and begins with cleaning, buffing, and shaping the natural nail. The gel polish is then applied in thin layers, with each layer placed under a UV or LED lamp to cure the polish.
The UV or LED light activates photoinitiators in the gel formula, which absorb the light energy and break apart into free radicals. These free radicals react with the monomers in the gel polish, triggering them to link together and form long polymer chains. This process, known as cross-linking, results in the hardening of the gel polish and creates a strong, durable coating on the nails.
Gel nails are known for their durability and long-lasting shine, typically lasting longer than regular nail polish. However, it is recommended to give nails a break between gel manicures to maintain nail health.
Removing gel nails requires breaking the strong covalent bonds formed during the curing process. This is typically done by soaking the nails in acetone, a powerful solvent that breaks down the polymer chains and dissolves the polish.











































