Ava Monroe
The use of long, artificial nails in an array of shades and designs has become increasingly popular. However, the origins of this trend are often separated from Black women, who have routinely worn them for generations. Black women have been left out of the conversation surrounding nail art, despite popularizing the trend and facing scrutiny and ridicule for their manicures. This erasure of Black women from the narrative surrounding nail art is a classic case of cultural appropriation.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Nail art | Popularized by Black women |
| Associated with celebrities like Florence Griffith-Joyner (Flo Jo), La Toya Jackson, Lil' Kim, Missy Elliot, Serena Williams, Janet Jackson, and Cardi B | |
| Part of black women's aesthetic culture since at least the 1970s | |
| Part of self-expression and resistance to stale stereotypes | |
| Used to share messages about topics like LGBTQ+ issues and racial inequality | |
| Melanonychia | A condition where brown or black lines appear on the nails due to increased deposits of melanin |
| Can occur naturally in people with a dark complexion | |
| May be a sign of other health issues, including nutritional deficiencies, trauma, infection, or cancer |
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What You'll Learn
Black women and nail art
Nail art has become a way for Black women to express themselves and their stories, and to assert their style. The nail salon is a sacred space for many women, and especially so for Black women. However, Black women are often left out of the conversation surrounding nail art, despite the fact that they have been pioneers of the art form.
Black women have been wearing long, artificial nails in a variety of shades and designs for generations. In the 1970s, singers Donna Summer and Diana Ross wore long, red, square-shaped acrylics with rhinestones, and Flo Jo and La Toya Jackson wore intricate nail designs. In the 1980s, Florence Griffith-Joyner (Flo Jo)—a former nail technician—won Olympic gold with six-inch multicoloured nails. In the 1990s, hip-hop legends like Lil' Kim and Missy Elliot started a cultural wave with nail art that continues today.
Despite this history, when nail art entered the mainstream, it became more likely to be associated with celebrities like the Jenners and the Kardashians than with Black women. This is partly due to the fact that Black women comprise a small percentage of professional nail technicians, making it easier to erase them from the narrative about manicure trends.
However, Black women are now rightfully being put front and centre of the nail art conversation, with communities like Instagram's @BlkGirlNailfies celebrating the art form and its pioneers. Black nail artists like Tahsiyn are also ensuring that Black women's stories are being told through their nail art. For example, Tahsiyn was inspired by wall art around the city when creating a pastel-and-neon design with a matte finish for Momo Yusuff.
Nail art has become a way for Black women to express their creativity, and to assert their style and femininity. As celebrity nail artist Gracie J says, "I think these women were brave for standing in their glory, unapologetic to social norms."
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The history of nail art
Nail art has a long and complex history, spanning millennia and encompassing various cultures and social codes. While the specific question of whether "black people have long nail beds" is not directly addressed in the sources available, the history of nail art is deeply intertwined with the cultural contributions of Black women.
The earliest known record of nail art originates from the short-lived Inca Empire (1438-1533), one of the largest empires in South America. The Incas decorated their nails by painting eagles on them. In ancient China, Empress Dowager Cixi, who ruled from 1835 to 1908, was known for her long nails, often protected by 6-inch-long gold guards.
Nail polish, as we know it today, was introduced in 1932 by Revlon, making it accessible to the masses. However, the concept of nail colouring and decoration has evolved over centuries, influenced by ancient civilisations like the Egyptians and Chinese, who used nail shades to denote social class distinctions.
In the 1970s, disco singers like Donna Summer and Diana Ross popularised long, red, square-shaped acrylic nails adorned with rhinestones. During this decade, press-on nails and nail wraps also emerged as early options for nail art enthusiasts.
In the 1980s, Florence Griffith-Joyner, commonly known as Flo Jo, an Olympic track and field athlete, brought attention to her manicure as much as her athletic achievements. She wore 4-inch, curved, tiger-striped fingernails and solid fuchsia manicures, challenging the norms of the time.
The 1990s witnessed hip-hop icons like Lil' Kim and Missy Elliott leading a cultural wave of nail art that continues to influence trends. Additionally, models like Donyale Luna and singers like Glodean White, Coko from SWV, and Janet Jackson sported bejewelled, flamboyant nail designs, pushing back against Eurocentric beauty standards and creating their own language of beauty.
Despite these contributions, Black women have often been left out of the narrative of nail art, with their manicures being ridiculed or considered "ghetto." In recent times, long, artificial nails and intricate designs have gone mainstream, often associated with celebrities like the Jenners or Kardashians rather than the Black women who pioneered these trends.
Today, nail art has become a form of self-expression, with individuals embracing unique designs, textures, and colours to showcase their personalities. The industry continues to innovate, with gel nails, nail art pens, adhesive strips, glitter gels, and 3D stickers offering endless possibilities for creative manicures.
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Melanonychia
The pigmentation in the nail plate is caused by the deposition of melanin, which occurs when melanocytes are activated. This melanocytic activation can be caused by trauma, infection, inflammation, or certain medications. In some cases, it may be associated with genetic disorders, injury, nutritional deficiency, endocrine disease, or nail infection. Melanonychia is typically more common in older individuals and increases with age. It affects both sexes equally and is more prevalent in people with skin of colour, especially those with Fitzpatrick skin type V and VI. Nearly all Afro-Caribbean people will develop black-brown pigmentation of the nails by the age of 50. It is also common in other ethnic groups such as Japanese, Hispanic, Indian, and other dark-skinned individuals.
The most concerning cause of melanonychia is subungual melanoma, which can result in metastasis and even death. However, benign causes are more common, and in these cases, no further treatment is necessary. The management of melanoma of the nail unit may require complete excision of the tumour and, in some cases, amputation of the digit.
The diagnosis and treatment of melanonychia require an understanding of its epidemiology, pathophysiology, and clinical details. While there are no established guidelines, a systematic stepwise approach has been suggested to determine the probable etiology. This includes distinguishing between melanocytic activation and melanocytic hyperplasia, which refers to an increased number of melanocytes and increased synthesis of melanin, respectively. In cases of melanonychia associated with a systemic disease or drugs, treatment of the primary condition or discontinuation of the offending drugs may lead to improvement.
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Prejudice faced by Black women
The prejudice faced by Black women is a pervasive issue that stems from the intersection of racism and sexism. This unique form of discrimination, termed "misogynoir" by Moya Bailey, describes the specific hatred, dislike, distrust, and prejudice directed towards Black women. Black women have historically been erased from narratives and had their contributions co-opted, with their resilience tested in the face of anti-Black violence, health disparities, and economic inequalities.
In the context of nail art and manicure trends, Black women have been left out of a conversation they started. While long, artificial nails with intricate designs and bejeweled accents have gone mainstream, Black women who sported such styles a generation ago were ridiculed and deemed "ghetto." Today, these manicures are more likely to be associated with celebrities like the Jenners or Kardashians than with women of color. This erasure is compounded by the underrepresentation of Black women among professional nail technicians, making it easier to exclude them from the narrative surrounding nail art.
Black women have also been at the forefront of social change, driving social justice movements and making significant strides in various fields despite the challenges they face. They are highly educated, ambitious, and forge their own paths as business owners. However, they continue to confront systemic racism and everyday discrimination in the workplace and beyond.
The voices of Black women are often muffled, stifled, and silenced. To dismantle misogynoir, awareness and anti-racism education are crucial. It is essential to listen to and amplify the voices of Black women, read books that explore intersectional experiences, and avoid behaviors like white-centering and defensiveness during conversations about racial justice.
The prejudice faced by Black women is not a recent phenomenon. During the abolitionist and women's rights movements in the 19th century, figures like Maria W. Stewart, the Grimké sisters (Sarah and Angelina), and Lucretia Mott spoke publicly against slavery, prejudice, and for the equality of women despite facing backlash and criticism. Their actions challenged social codes and reshaped the idea of a woman's role in society, paving the way for future women's rights advocates.
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Acrylic nails
The history of nail art is deeply rooted in Black culture, with Black women routinely wearing long, artificial nails with intricate designs more than a generation ago. Singers like Donna Summer and Diana Ross sported long, red, square-shaped acrylics with rhinestones in the 1970s, and Florence Griffith-Joyner (Flo Jo) and La Toya Jackson wore intricate nail designs in the 1980s. In the 1990s, hip-hop legends like Lil' Kim and Missy Elliot started a cultural wave with their nail art. Despite this history, Black women are often left out of the conversation around nail art and are a small percentage of professional nail technicians, making it easier to erase their contributions.
It is recommended to take a break from acrylic nails every three to six months to help rejuvenate natural nails.
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Frequently asked questions
There is no evidence to suggest that Black people have longer nail beds than other ethnicities. However, it is known that long artificial nails and nail art have been popularised by Black women.
In the 1970s, singers Donna Summer and Diana Ross wore long, red, square-shaped acrylics with rhinestones. In the 1980s, Flo Jo and La Toya Jackson wore intricate nail designs. In the 1990s, hip-hop legends like Lil' Kim and Missy Elliot started a cultural wave with nail art that continues today.
Black women have routinely worn long artificial nails and nail art for over a generation. However, they were ridiculed and considered "ghetto" for their manicures. Now, long square-tipped and bejewelled nails are associated with celebrities like the Jenners and the Kardashians.
