Noah Sinclair
Long nails have been a part of Black women's aesthetic culture for centuries, with Egyptian women wearing artificial nail extensions made of ivory and bone as far back as 3000 BC. In the 1990s, celebrities like SWV singer Coko and Janet Jackson popularized the trend of extra-long acrylic nails and pierced nail looks, respectively. While long nails have been a form of self-expression and resistance to respectability politics for Black women, they have also faced scrutiny and double standards from society and the media. The style is often associated with markers of blackness, sexual deviancy, and marginalized femininity, as noted by Lynchburg College Sport Management Professor Lindsay Pieper. Despite this, Black women continue to embrace long nails as a form of self-expression and a way to push back against respectability politics that have policed their appearance.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Long nails as a marker of blackness | Long nails are a marker of blackness, with black women in particular being associated with acrylic nails. |
| History | Black women have been associated with long nails since at least the 1990s, with celebrities like SWV singer Coko and Janet Jackson popularising the trend. |
| Cultural significance | Long nails are a form of self-expression and a way to resist stereotypes about Black women's appearance. They can also be used to share messages about social issues. |
| Media portrayal | The media has often scrutinised and criticised Black women for their long nails, portraying them as abnormal and deviant. |
| Cultural appropriation | Long nails have been co-opted by the mainstream and cultural appropriation has occurred when trends originated by Black women are borrowed by the majority without credit. |
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What You'll Learn
- Black women have been wearing long nails since ancient Egypt
- Long nails are a marker of blackness
- Long nails are a way to resist respectability politics that have policed Black women’s appearance
- Black celebrities like Cardi B and Janet Jackson have popularised long nails
- Long nails are a way to express personality
Black women have been wearing long nails since ancient Egypt
While the genesis of the manicure cannot be attributed to one culture, archaeological evidence reveals that nail art and decoration have been practised for millennia. In ancient Egypt, nail decoration was a way to symbolise social status and divine protection. Egyptian queens Nefertiti and Cleopatra were known for wearing red nails, a colour associated with life and vitality. Lower-ranking citizens were forbidden from wearing the same shades as royalty and could only use pale hues.
The practice of nail decoration in ancient Egypt was not limited to women. Before a battle, ancient Egyptian warriors, alongside Babylonian and early Roman military commanders, spent several hours having their hair lacquered and curled and their nails painted the same shade as their lips.
In ancient Egypt, natural dyes and oils extracted from plants, berries, and herbs were used to tint and nourish nails, with shades ranging from deep reds to purples. Henna staining was also a common practice, with different colours holding symbolic meanings. Intricate nail designs, often inspired by nature or mythological tales, were popular among the elite classes, showcasing their wealth and artistic sensibilities.
The cultural significance of nail decoration has persisted through the ages, with long nails continuing to be a symbol of wealth and social status. In the 1980s and 1990s, Black women such as Coko from SWV and Janet Jackson sported flamboyant, bejewelled, and long acrylic nails, pushing back against Eurocentric expectations.
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Long nails are a marker of blackness
Nail technician Gracie J, for example, uses nail art as a means to share messages about topics like LGBTQ+ issues and racial inequality, featuring prominent Black women like Harriet Tubman and Sojourner Truth. This form of self-expression has been scrutinised more harshly when compared to similar expressions by white celebrities. For instance, the media came to the defence of white celebrity Kylie Jenner when she was criticised for her acrylics, while Cardi B faced a barrage of comments and questions about her mothering skills due to her long nails.
The prejudice faced by black women with long nails is evident in the media's portrayal of Flo-Jo, a world-famous athlete and former nail technician who chose to keep her nails long. Sportswriters depicted her as abnormal, deviant, and different because her preference for long, colourful nails clashed with white, middle-class norms. This double standard highlights the racial dynamics at play, where long nails on black women are viewed as markers of deviance and marginalisation, while long nails on white women are seen as stylish.
The erasure of black women from the narrative of nail art and long nails is a form of cultural appropriation. As pointed out by Dr. Mia Moody-Ramirez, a professor of Journalism, Public Relations & New Media at Baylor University, cultural appropriation involves "borrowing from cultures but not giving those cultures credit". This is evident in the adoption of trends like cornrows and nail art by the mainstream, where black women are erased from the narrative and not given credit for their influence.
Despite the scrutiny and double standards, long nails continue to be a form of self-expression and resistance for black women, pushing back against respectability politics that have policed their appearance.
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Long nails are a way to resist respectability politics that have policed Black women’s appearance
Long nails have been a part of Black women's aesthetic culture for a long time. As far back as 3000 BC, Egyptian women wore artificial nail extensions made of ivory and bone. In the 90s, celebrities like SWV singer Coko and Janet Jackson wore extra-long and pierced nails, respectively, popularizing the look.
Despite this, society has not been as open to seeing Black women positively express themselves through long nails as it has to their white counterparts. When Grammy-winning rapper Cardi B gave birth to her first child, she faced criticism and questions about how she would handle changing her daughter's diapers with her long nails. In comparison, white celebrities like Kylie Jenner were defended by media outlets when facing similar criticism.
This double standard is a form of respectability politics, which has been used to police Black women's appearance. Respectability politics refers to the idea that marginalized groups can improve their social standing by changing their behavior or appearance to conform to dominant norms. In the context of Black women and nails, it means that they are expected to conform to white, middle-class, heteronormative beauty standards, such as French manicures and pastel colors, to be considered acceptable or respectable.
Long nails, therefore, become a form of resistance to respectability politics. They push back against the notion that Black women must conform to dominant norms to be respected. Instead, Black women use long nails as a way to express their personality and individuality, share messages about important topics, and celebrate their history and culture.
Additionally, long nails have become a way for Black women to reclaim their agency and challenge stereotypes. As Kimberly Smith, CEO, and founder of Marjani Beauty, a company that curates beauty products for women of color, notes, "Black women have kind of created something, and someone from the majority embraces it... Erasing Black women from this narrative is a classic case of cultural appropriation." By continuing to wear long nails, Black women are refusing to be erased from the narrative and are taking back the power to define their own standards of beauty and expression.
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Black celebrities like Cardi B and Janet Jackson have popularised long nails
Cardi B's nail looks have also included matching her manicure to her outfits, such as her mint green nails with bling to go with her opera-length gloves, and her blue nails to complement her blue eyeliner at the Grammys. She has also matched her nails to her handbag, with a bold, bright blue manicure, and a bubblegum pink set with shimmering crystals. For her "WAP" music video, Cardi B's nails featured Swarovski crystals, and for the "Up" video, she sported pointy, long turquoise nails with gems.
Similarly, Janet Jackson has inspired nail looks, with tutorials available online to recreate her style. One such look involves black nail polish, a top coat, and jump rings applied to long press-on nails.
Long nails have thus become a popular fashion statement, with celebrities like Cardi B and Janet Jackson showcasing various creative and stylish manicures that have inspired many fans.
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Long nails are a way to express personality
Long nails have been a part of Black women's aesthetic culture for a long time. As far back as 3000 BC, Egyptian women were believed to have worn artificial nail extensions made of ivory and bone. In the 90s, celebrities like SWV singer Coko and Janet Jackson wore extra-long sets of acrylic nails, popularizing the look.
Today, long nails are a way for Black women to express their personalities and resist stale stereotypes about appearance and presentation that disproportionately harm Black women. For example, New York-based nail tech Gracie J uses nail art on acrylics to share messages about topics like LGBTQ+ issues and racial inequality. She features images of prominent Black women like Harriet Tubman, Sojourner Truth, and #MeToo founder Tarana Burke.
Additionally, long nails can be a form of self-expression for Black women, allowing them to bring their personalities into spaces that may not typically welcome their presence. For instance, athlete Flo-Jo kept her nails long as an homage to the side hustle that paid her bills before she became a world-famous athlete. Similarly, rapper Cardi B has been known for her long, glittery claws, which have become a part of her trademark look, even before she became famous.
While long nails can be a form of self-expression and a way to push back against respectability politics, Black women often face scrutiny and criticism for their nail choices. For example, Flo-Jo faced prejudice and media scrutiny for her acrylics, with sportswriters depicting her as abnormal and deviant because her nail choices clashed with white, middle-class norms. Similarly, Cardi B faced criticism and racist suggestions about her mothering skills when she gave birth to her first child, with people questioning how she would handle changing diapers with her long nails.
Despite the scrutiny and criticism, long nails remain a popular way for Black women to express their personalities and resist respectability politics. They have become a part of Black women's history and culture, and manicurists like Mei Kawajiri of Nails by Mei are giving credit where it's due, making it known that Black women inspired their art.
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Frequently asked questions
Long nail beds have been a part of Black women's aesthetic culture for a long time. As far back as 3000 BC, Egyptian women wore artificial nail extensions made of ivory and bone.
Long, ornate nails have been a norm for Black women for a while. Black women have been getting acrylics and nail designs since the '90s.
Yes, there is. In ancient Egypt, women wore artificial nail extensions made of ivory and bone.
Yes. The media scrutiny of Black women's long nails and overall appearance has been an issue, with critics questioning their mothering skills and suggesting that their defiance comes from a place of vanity or irresponsibility.
Yes, long nail beds can be a form of self-expression and a way to resist stale stereotypes and respectability politics that have policed Black women's appearance. They can also be used to share messages about topics such as LGBTQ+ issues and racial inequality.
