Caleb Foster
The long nail trend has been popular for thousands of years, with sources tracing the practice back to ancient Egypt and China. In ancient Egypt, fake nails were made of bones or ivory and worn by wealthy women as a symbol of power and importance. During the Ming Dynasty in China, noblewomen wore long fake nails to show they didn't have to labour like commoners. In the 1930s, nail art was popular with Joan Crawford sporting the crescent moon style. However, the trend for long acrylic nails is often associated with Black culture and was popularised in the 1980s by Olympic athlete Florence Griffith Joyner, also known as Flo Jo, who wore three-inch-long nails. By the 1990s, the trend had spread to pop culture, largely due to Black influences at the time, with hip-hop artists such as Lil' Kim wearing long acrylic nails. Today, celebrities and influencers continue to have a significant impact on nail trends, with stars like Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner, and Cardi B often credited with starting new trends.
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What You'll Learn
The ancient origins of nail art
The history of nail art is a long and fascinating one, with sources tracing the practice back thousands of years. Various shapes and colours have been popularized based on the fashion trends of the generation, with manicure styles often reflecting the changing values and expressions of the culture and time period in which they arose.
Nail art is believed to have originated around 5000 BC in ancient Egypt, where royalty and wealthy women wore fake nails made of bones or ivory as a symbol of power and importance. In 3000 BC, the Chinese formulated what could be considered the first form of nail polish, a mixture of beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, and vegetable dyes, or crushed orchid and rose petals to create shades of pink to red. During the Ming Dynasty, noblewomen in China wore long fake nails to demonstrate that they didn't have to labour like commoners. Around 600 BC, during China's Chou Dynasty, aristocrats wore flashy gold or silver nail guards, which were symbolic of wealth and leisure.
In the 15th century, the Incas are believed to have invented "nail art" as we know it, decorating their nails with intricate pictures of eagles. Manicures were also popular during the Renaissance, with wealthy European women favouring a light tint of red oil, though no pigment. In the 1800s, upper-class Greek women wore pistachio shells over their nails, a trend that spread across Europe.
Nail art became popular in the 1930s, with Joan Crawford sporting the era's popular crescent moon style. In 1932, Revlon became the first nail polish brand on the market, and in 1934, the dentist Maxwell Lappe created the first set of fake nails for clients who bit their nails. In 1937, Earl Tupper invented the first nail appliqué, revolutionizing the nail art industry. In the 1940s, Rita Hayworth influenced the industry with her love of long, bright nails, though many women entering the workforce preferred shorter styles. In 1954, dentist Frederick Slack accidentally created acrylic nails while trying to mend his broken nail with dental acrylic, though the blend was perfected in the 1970s by Dr. Stuart Nordstrom.
In the 1980s, four-time Olympic medalist Florence Griffith Joyner, also known as Flo Jo, made long nails her trademark, with three-inch-long, jewelled nails. By the 1990s, acrylic nails had become a staple in pop culture, largely due to Black influences, with leading ladies of hip-hop wearing acrylic nails adorned with airbrushed designs. In the 2000s, celebrities like the Kardashians further popularized the trend.
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The influence of Black culture
The long nail trend has a long history, with sources tracing back the practice to thousands of years ago. Various cultures and time periods have used different nail fashions to symbolize status, power, and artistic expression.
Black culture has had a significant influence on the long nail trend, particularly in the rise of acrylic nails in America. In the 1980s, Florence Griffith Joyner, a four-time Olympic medalist and the Fastest Woman in the World, popularized acrylic nails as her trademark. Joyner's long, colourful nails became a source of intrigue and revulsion, with writers subtly emphasizing racial differences. Despite the negative portrayal, acrylic nails gained mainstream popularity in the 1980s due to Joyner.
By the late 1990s, the leading ladies of hip-hop, such as Lil' Kim, were sporting acrylic nails adorned with airbrushed designs. Lil' Kim's iconic money manicure, designed by celebrity nail technician Bernadette Thompson, further solidified the trend.
Additionally, it is important to recognize that trends originating in Black culture are often deemed acceptable by the wider society only when appropriated by non-Black individuals. This dynamic was observed in the case of nail art, where styles popular among Black women were deemed vulgar or ghetto until they were adopted and repackaged by non-Black individuals.
Thus, the long nail trend, especially the popularity of acrylic nails, owes much of its influence to Black culture and the trendsetters within it.
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Acrylic nails: an accidental invention
The use of artificial nails, or "fake nails", has become a popular trend in modern times, with many people, especially the youth, considering them "super cute and customisable". The trend has also been considered a confidence booster, with some people believing that it makes them "feel put-together and well-dressed". Acrylic nails are also believed to prevent sickness by acting as a hard protective layer that prevents people from biting their nails.
The concept of fake nails is not new, with its origins dating back to ancient Egypt, where wealthy women wore them as a symbol of power and importance. They were made of bones or ivory. During the Ming Dynasty in China, noblewomen wore long fake nails to show that they didn't have to do manual labour like commoners. In the 1800s, the trend spread across Europe, with upper-class Greek women wearing pistachio shells over their nails.
The invention of modern acrylic nails, however, was an accident. In 1954, a dentist named Frederick Slack broke his nail at work and fixed it using dental acrylic. The blend was later perfected in the 1970s by Dr Stuart Nordstrom. Acrylic nails gained popularity in the 1980s when they were worn by Florence "Flo Jo" Griffith Joyner, a four-time Olympic medallist known as the "Fastest Woman in the World". Joyner made a statement with her three-inch long, colourful nails, which became her trademark.
Despite the popularity of acrylic nails, there are some drawbacks. They can be inconvenient for sports, writing, and other everyday activities. Additionally, the application of gel nail products can lead to fungal infections and allergic reactions if not done properly. Acrylic nails also require regular upkeep, with touch-ups needed every two to three weeks.
The cultural significance of nail art and the trend of long, decorative nails have been influenced by Black culture. Black women have been at the forefront of nail art's resurgence, pushing back against Eurocentric expectations and creating their own standards of beauty. However, they have also faced stigmatisation and covert repulsion for their nail choices, with their achievements sometimes being overshadowed by the media's obsession with their nail styles.
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Celebrities and the long nail trend
Long nails have been a popular trend among celebrities and the fashion system, with many stars sporting long nails on the red carpet, magazine covers, fashion editorials, and social media. This trend has been particularly prominent within the hip-hop and rap communities, with celebrities like Lil' Kim, Cardi B, and Nicki Minaj known for their bold and extravagant nail choices. Lil' Kim, for example, has been wearing next-level manicures featuring bright colors, custom designs, and daring lengths since the 90s, paving the way for the over-the-top nail trends we see today. Cardi B, a native of the Bronx, has been a regular at New York nail salons and is known for her ultra-long, blinged-out styles, often featuring diamonds, 3D embellishments, and jaw-dropping designs. Similarly, Nicki Minaj's nails are just as iconic as her alter egos, with bright pink claws and elegant, jeweled designs that match her fashion looks.
Another celebrity who has helped popularize the long nail trend is Beyoncé. She has been spotted with long nails on various occasions, including when she gave a glimpse of her Adidas x Ivy Park manicure in 2019. Beyoncé has also been credited with starting the trend, along with other celebrities like the Kardashian klan, who adopted it in the 2000s. However, it's important to recognize that the long nail trend has its roots in Black culture, where nail artistry has been celebrated for many years, and the trend has been considered "cool" when worn by non-Black women, while often deemed "tacky" when worn by Black women.
In addition to the aforementioned celebrities, there are several other notable figures who have embraced the long nail trend. For example, Cynthia Erivo, an award-winning actress and singer, has graced red carpets and magazine covers with her bold nail choices, treating her nails like wearable art that coordinates with her designer gowns and accessories. Bella Hadid has also jumped on the trend, posting a snap on Instagram showcasing her colorful long nails. Other celebrities who have been spotted with long nails include Catherine Zeta-Jones, Chanel Iman, Heidi Pratt, and Alexa Demie, who showed off bold nail art during a Balenciaga couture show.
The long nail trend has also been influenced by historical figures, such as the Egyptians in North Africa, who created the first manicures worn by royals like Nefertiti around 5000 BC. Additionally, in 3000 BC, the Chinese originated the first form of nail polish from a mixture of beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, and vegetable dyes. More recently, in the 1980s, Florence "Flo Jo" Griffith Joyner, a four-time Olympic medalist, made a statement with her three-inch long, colorful nails, which became her trademark. However, her nails were also a source of intrigue and revulsion, with writers subtly emphasizing racial differences.
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Nails as a form of self-expression
Nails have been a form of self-expression for thousands of years, with the practice of decorating them dating back to 5000 BC in ancient Egypt. In ancient times, nail art was used as a symbol of status, wealth, and power. For example, during the Ming Dynasty in China, noblewomen wore long fake nails to show that they didn't have to perform manual labour. Similarly, in the 15th century, the Incas decorated their nails with intricate pictures of eagles.
In the 1900s, nail art became increasingly popular, with the first nail polish brand, Revlon, entering the market in 1932. The 1930s also saw the popularity of nail art among Hollywood starlets, with Rita Hayworth sporting long, bright nails, and Joan Crawford wearing the era's popular crescent moon style. In 1934, the first set of fake nails was created by a dentist named Maxwell Lappe for clients who bit their nails. The 1940s saw a shift towards shorter nail styles as more women started entering the workforce. However, nail art remained popular, with Cher starting a square nail trend in the 1960s.
In the 1980s, the Black four-time Olympic medalist Florence Griffith Joyner, also known as "Flo Jo", popularised long acrylic nails, making them a trademark. By the 1990s, acrylic nails had become a staple in pop culture, largely due to Black influences, with leading ladies of hip-hop such as Lil' Kim sporting long nails with airbrushed designs.
Today, nail art is widely accessible, with nail salons offering professional manicures and DIY options available for at-home nail enthusiasts. Social media has also played a significant role in the popularity of nail art, with hashtags like #nails garnering millions of posts on Instagram. Celebrities and influencers continue to influence nail trends, with stars like Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner, and Cardi B often credited for starting new trends.
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Frequently asked questions
Long nails have been popular across various cultures for centuries. In 3000 BC, during the Ming Dynasty in China, noblewomen wore long fake nails to demonstrate that they didn't have to work. In ancient Egypt, royalty and wealthy women wore long nails made of bones or ivory as a symbol of power and importance.
In the 1940s, Rita Hayworth influenced the trend for long, bright nails. In the 1980s, the trend for long acrylic nails was popularised by Florence Griffith Joyner, also known as Flo Jo, a four-time Olympic medallist.
In the 2000s, celebrities like Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner, and the Kardashian klan helped to popularise long, decorated nails.
The rise of social media and the popularity of hashtags like #nails on Instagram have helped to spread nail trends globally.
Black culture has had a significant influence on the rise of acrylic nails in America. In the 1990s, leading ladies of hip-hop like Lil' Kim and Missy Elliot popularised long acrylic nails with airbrushed designs.
