Sophia Delgado
The desire to have long nails has been a part of human culture for millennia, with archaeological evidence of nail decoration dating back to 5,000 BC. In ancient Egypt, royalty such as Cleopatra and Nefertiti wore red nails, while lower-ranking citizens were forbidden from wearing anything but pale shades. In China, nail colouring was reserved for the upper classes, with both men and women growing their nails long and wearing gold or bamboo splints to prevent them from breaking. In the 20th century, nail polish was invented and hit the market in the 1920s, with red nails becoming popular in the 1950s. The 1960s saw a preference for more natural-looking nails, while the 1980s brought a resurgence of nail painting with neon and rainbow colours. Today, long nails are often associated with femininity and are sometimes used to signal that one does not need to perform manual labour.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When did women start having long nails? | Women have been decorating their nails since ancient times. |
| Which cultures have influenced the trend? | Ancient Egypt, India, Babylonia, China, Greece |
| Which celebrities have influenced the trend? | Jean Harlow, Twiggy, Raquel Welch, Donyale Luna, Glodean White, Coko, Janet Jackson, Nia Dennis, Cardi B |
| What were the nails made of? | Egg whites, gelatin, beeswax, dyes from flower petals, dental acrylic resin, aluminum foil, gold, bamboo, pistachio shells, steel, rose petal lacquer, gel, fiberglass, acrylic, plastic |
| What were the social implications? | Long nails were a sign of wealth and social status, as they indicated that the bearer did not have to perform manual labor. |
| What were the health implications? | Long-term use and poorly fitted nails can damage the nail bed and hamper natural nail growth. Artificial nails can also cause fungal infections and bacterial burdens. |
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What You'll Learn
Ancient nail art
The practice of nail art has a long and diverse history, with evidence of its existence dating back to ancient times. In ancient Babylon, men and women of the upper classes adorned their nails with black kohl, while those of inferior status used green colouring. Nails were also decorated in ancient Egypt (5000 BC–3000 BC) to denote the status of women. In ancient China, artisans used beeswax, gelatin, vegetable dyes, egg whites, and other natural elements to create lacquers and varnishes for the fingernails, and the Chinese also favoured enamel decoration. Historians suggest that nail art was likely practised in ancient India and the Americas by Native American tribes like the 15th-century Incas, who decorated their nails with intricate pictures of eagles.
During the Ming Dynasty (14th–17th centuries) in China, both men and women grew their nails long (up to five inches) to demonstrate their wealth and the fact that they did not have to perform manual labour. They wore gold or bamboo splints to prevent their nails from breaking. In 19th-century Greece, women used pistachio shells as artificial nails.
The first modern manicures became popular around 1830, and nail shops began to spring up. In 1934, the dentist Maxwell Lappe created the first set of fake nails for clients who bit their nails. However, it wasn't until 1954 that an early version of the modern artificial nail was invented by Fred Slack, a dentist who chipped his nail and needed a replacement. He created a realistic-looking fake nail from dental acrylic that soon became popular worldwide.
The 1920s saw the introduction of nail polish, referred to as nail enamel, developed from lacquers originally designed for automotive painting. Bright colours were shunned by the upper class as they were associated with the working class. Red nails were popular in the 1950s, with a style that involved painting the lower half of the nail red while leaving the half-moon section unpolished. This was followed by subtle, frosted shades in the 1960s, and long neutral artificial nails in the 1970s. The 1980s saw a boom in nail art, with a wide range of colours available, from neon yellows to shocking blues.
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Long nails as a status symbol
Long nails have been a status symbol for thousands of years. In 3,000 BC, ancient Egyptian women applied henna dyes to their nails, achieving a reddish-pink shade. Nails tinted with plant extracts were also popular in India around the same time. However, only the elite were allowed to wear vibrant reds, with lower-class citizens restricted to paler shades. Archaeologists have also discovered evidence of nail decoration in ancient Babylonia, where men used kohl to colour their nails.
In China, nail colouring was initially reserved for the upper classes, with both men and women growing their nails long and wearing gold or bamboo splints to protect them. During the Ming Dynasty (14th-17th century), noblewomen wore long crimson nails with extensions to demonstrate their wealth and the fact that they did not need to work with their hands.
In the 20th century, the invention of modern nail polish led to new trends in nail decoration. In the 1920s, short, well-manicured round nails were a symbol of wealth, and bright colours were shunned in favour of paler shades. In the 1950s, long red nails became fashionable, inspired by Jean Harlow, who appeared on screen with this look. The 1960s saw a shift towards more natural, muted tones, while the 1970s and 1980s brought a resurgence of bold colours and artificial nails.
Today, long nails continue to be associated with wealth and social status, as they indicate that the wearer does not need to perform manual labour. The popularity of nail art and the availability of artificial nails have made it possible for people to express themselves and experiment with different styles, shapes, and textures.
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The invention of nail polish
Nail polish, also known as nail varnish or nail enamel, has existed in some form for thousands of years. However, the invention of modern nail polish can be traced back to the early 20th century, with the advent of the automobile industry.
In ancient China, around 3000 BCE, warriors painted their nails before going into battle. They used a mixture of ingredients such as coal, beeswax, eggs, gelatin, and flowers, with black and green being popular colours. During the Zhou Dynasty, the royal family preferred gold and silver nail polish, while others favoured red, black, and metallic shades. In ancient Egypt, lower-class people wore pastel colours, while high society painted their nails with reddish-brown hues, with Cleopatra opting for deep blood red.
In the 1800s, nail polish made its way to Europe, where it was observed that Greek women painted their nails a "dingy pink". During the Victorian era, it was considered improper for women to wear makeup or nail colouring, as natural appearances were favoured.
In the 1920s, automotive paint was invented, and French manicurist Michelle Manard adapted this formula to create opaque nail polish. Around the same time, hairstylist Antoine de Paris produced some of the first modern polishes in France, causing a stir by painting each of his nails a different colour. This decade also saw the rise in popularity of red nails, inspired by Jean Harlow, which remained fashionable well into the 1950s.
In 1925, Cutex created liquid nail polish, establishing a beauty empire. In 1932, Michelle Manard and Charles Revson launched the cosmetic brand Revlon, introducing the first coloured nail enamel. Manicures were no longer exclusive to the upper classes, with nail polish becoming a popular beauty item in America. During World War II, when women joined the workforce, clear polish or buffing with cream polish became more practical for those performing manual labour.
Over time, nail polish formulas have been revised to enhance their decorative properties, improve safety, and suppress cracking or peeling. Today, nail polish comes in various shades and textures, playing a significant role in manicures and pedicures worldwide.
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The evolution of nail shapes
Ancient Times:
Nail art and decoration have existed for millennia, with evidence of nail colouring and decoration dating back to ancient civilizations. In ancient Egypt, royalty and wealthy women applied henna or plant extracts to their nails, achieving vibrant red shades. Cleopatra and Nefertiti were known for their bold red nails, a colour that became associated with elite social status. Meanwhile, in India around 5000 BC, women stained their nails with henna, and ancient Babylonian men used kohl to colour their nails.
Ming Dynasty (14th-17th Century):
During this period, Chinese noblewomen wore long nail extensions to signify their high social status and the fact that they did not engage in manual labour. They often adorned their nails with elaborate gold or bamboo splints to prevent breakage.
1920s:
Short, well-manicured, and round nails became a symbol of wealth during this decade. Nail polish, referred to as "nail enamel," entered the market, with brands like Revlon introducing long-lasting formulas in 1932.
1950s:
The 1950s saw the rise in popularity of red nails, popularized by Jean Harlow, who appeared on-screen with long red nails. The manicure style involved painting the lower half of the nail red while leaving the half-moon section polish-free.
1960s:
This decade marked a shift towards more muted, pastel tones, and natural-looking nails. Models and celebrities, like Twiggy, favoured subtle, frosted shades. However, artificial nails were still predominantly worn by those in the public eye.
1970s:
Long, neutral-coloured artificial nails gained popularity, with celebrities like Raquel Welch sporting this look. The French manicure also emerged during this time, offering a versatile nail style that paired well with different looks and wardrobe changes.
1980s:
The 1980s witnessed a resurgence of nail painting, with neon and rainbow colours taking centre stage. This decade also saw the rise of flamboyant and bejewelled nail art, particularly among Black women, as a form of self-expression and a pushback against Eurocentric beauty standards.
Late 20th Century to Present:
Artificial nails, or "fake nails," became widely popular worldwide, offering various shapes, sizes, and textures. Gel nails, acrylic nails, and fiberglass nails emerged as long-lasting alternatives to traditional nail polish, providing high-gloss finishes and chip resistance. However, the long-term use of artificial nails has also raised concerns about nail bed damage and natural nail growth inhibition.
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Nails in modern times
The modern manicure has evolved from ancient practices, with archaeological evidence of nail decoration dating back to 5000 BC in Egypt and India. The genesis of the manicure cannot be attributed to a single culture, as it has been influenced by various societies throughout history. In ancient Egypt, mummies were found with gilded nails and henna-tinted fingertips, while Indian women stained their nails with henna. Babylonian men also used kohl to colour their nails, and a solid gold manicure set was discovered in southern Babylonia, dating to 3200 BC.
In the 20th century, nail polish was invented and introduced to the market in the 1920s. During this time, short, well-manicured round nails were a symbol of wealth. However, bright colours were associated with the working class, and the elite favoured more neutral tones. Red nails, in particular, were considered glamorous and remained fashionable into the 1950s, popularised by Jean Harlow. In the 1960s, Twiggy promoted subtle, frosted shades, while the 1970s saw the rise of long neutral artificial nails, as seen on Raquel Welch. The 1980s brought a resurgence of nail painting, with neon and rainbow colours taking centre stage.
Today, nail art and design have become a form of self-expression for many women, with endless options for colour, size, shape, and texture. The practice of artificial nail enhancements has also gained popularity, with various techniques and materials available, such as gel, acrylic, and fiberglass nails. These modern artificial nails serve as both fashion accessories and a way to showcase one's social status, indicating that the wearer does not engage in manual labour.
While the aesthetics and trends of nail art have evolved, the underlying social significance remains. Nails continue to reflect cultural codes, societal trends, and issues of classism and discrimination. Additionally, the accessibility and popularity of nail salons have made it convenient for individuals to experiment with different styles and express their creativity through their nail choices.
Looking forward, the future of nail art and design is bound to be influenced by cultural exchanges, technological advancements, and shifting societal norms. As trends come and go, the modern manicure will continue to be a dynamic and evolving aspect of beauty and self-expression.
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Frequently asked questions
Women have been growing their nails since ancient times. In ancient Egypt, women applied henna dyes and blood to their nails to achieve a vibrant red colour.
Long nails have been fashionable at various points throughout history. In the 17th century, the upper class in Chinese society grew their nails to five inches long to demonstrate their wealth. In the 1950s, red nails were popular, and in the 1980s, there was a resurgence of nail painting with neon and rainbow colours.
Long nails have historically been a way to demonstrate wealth and social status, as those with long nails were seen as not having to perform manual labour.
