Ava Monroe
The history of nail polish dates back to 3000 BCE, with the Chinese credited as the original inventors. In ancient China, nail polish was used to indicate social class, with royalty wearing gold, silver, and red, while non-royals wore nude shades. In ancient Egypt, henna was used to dye nails a reddish-brown colour, with mummified pharaohs found to have painted nails. In the 1920s, nail polish became popular in the West, with makeup artist Michelle Menard creating a glossy nail lacquer that mimicked the shine on automobiles. In the 1980s, gel nail polish was introduced, and by the end of the 1990s, it had made a comeback with improved formulas designed to work with gel lights. Today, gel nail polish is widely popular and offered in salons worldwide.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Date of origin | 1980s |
| Popularity | Widespread |
| Application | Painted on the nail, then cured under a UV lamp or UV LED |
| Longevity | Lasts up to two weeks |
| Removal | Requires soaking nails in pure acetone for 5-15 minutes |
| Composition | Methacrylate polymer |
| Additives | Plasticizers, diethylphthalate, dibutylphthalate, camphor, dyes, and pigments |
| Pigments | Chromium oxide greens, chromium hydroxide, ferric ferrocyanide, stannic oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, carmine, ultramarine, manganese violet |
| Opalescent pigments | Mica, bismuth oxychloride, natural pearls, and aluminium powder |
| Solvents | Butyl acetate or ethyl acetate |
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What You'll Learn
The history of nail polish
In ancient Egypt, the lower classes painted their nails with henna, a reddish-brown dye. Nefertiti and Cleopatra also favoured this colour, with Nefertiti dying her entire hand with henna and Cleopatra dipping her fingernails. Mummified pharaohs were also found with their nails painted. Some sources suggest that mehndi (henna) originated in North Africa or the Middle East, with ancient Indians using henna to dye their hair, skin and nails.
In Europe, around 1810-1812, Frederick S. N. Douglas noticed that Greek women painted their nails a "dingy pink", which was believed to be an ancient custom. At this time, it was more common to polish nails with tinted powders and creams, finishing by buffing the nail until it was shiny. One such product was Graf's Hyglo nail polish paste.
In the 1920s, nail polish became popular in the US among flappers and upper-class women, with shades of red, maroon and brown being common. Makeup artist Michelle Menard created a glossy nail lacquer that mimicked the shine on automobiles, which gained popularity and led to the launch of Revlon in 1932. In 1957, dentist Frederick Slack created faux nails using aluminium foil and dental acrylic, which he later patented. In the 1980s, gel nail polish and nail wraps entered the market, although the application know-how was initially limited. By the end of the 1990s, gel nails re-emerged with improved formulas designed to work with precise light wavelengths and intensity, offering better clarity and durability.
Today, gel nail polish is widely popular and offered in many salons. With proper application and care, gel polish can last up to two weeks without chipping, compared to regular nail polish, which typically lasts two to seven days.
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Gel nail polish brands
Gel nail polishes have been popular since the late 2010s, with 86% of salons offering gel polish services to their clients by 2017. There are several brands in the market that offer gel nail polishes with unique selling points such as longer-lasting manicures and a wide range of colours.
Gelish
Gelish by Nail Harmony is a popular gel nail polish brand. It advertises a three-week manicure, a week longer than its competitors. It is available in 25+ locations globally and offers training courses for its products.
Shellac
Shellac is a hybrid nail polish by Creative Nail Design (CND). While it is not technically a gel polish, it was a game-changer for the industry and offered a wide variety of colours to choose from.
OPI
OPI is another well-known brand in the nail polish industry. It offers a range of gel nail polishes called GelColor, which includes popular colours such as Bogata Blackberry.
The GelBottle Inc (TGB)
TGB is a female-founded, vegan, and cruelty-free gel nail polish brand. It offers professional-grade products to certified nail technicians and at-home beauty products for enthusiasts.
Other Brands
There are several other gel nail polish brands available, such as Axxium by OPI, Gelac by IBD, and Gelez by EZ Flow. These brands offer unique formulas and features that cater to different needs and preferences.
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The science of gel nail polish
Gel nail polish is a long-lasting variety of nail polish. It is painted onto the nail in a similar way to traditional nail polish, but it does not dry in the same way. Instead, it is cured and hardened under an ultraviolet lamp or ultraviolet LED. This process involves repeatedly applying thin layers of the substance to the nail and exposing them to UV light. Unlike regular nail polish, gel nail polish will not harden without the use of UV light.
The key components of gel nail polish are methacrylate polymers, which are activated by photoinitiators. Photoinitiators are molecules that initiate a chemical reaction upon absorption of light at a certain wavelength. The photoinitiators absorb the UV light and split into radicals, kick-starting polymerization. This process involves the methacrylate building blocks in the solution connecting to form long polymer chains that harden on the nail.
The two main categories of gel nail polish are soft gels and hard gels. Soft gels have a flexible polymer network and can be removed by soaking them in solvents such as acetone. Hard gels, on the other hand, are rigid and impermeable to solvents, so they must be filed off.
The formulation of gel nail polish also includes inhibitors, pigments, non-energy curable resins, solvents, and stabilizers. Inhibitors prevent the gel from hardening prematurely while still in its original container. Pigments are optional and are used to impart colour. Non-energy curable resins are functional fillers that modify the properties of the gel, such as thickening or toughening the product. Solvents are substances in which other substances are dissolved, and they help the gel polish break down faster.
The development of gel nail polish can be traced back to the late 1990s when it re-emerged in the US nail industry with improved formulas. These new formulas were designed to work with specific light wavelengths and intensities, resulting in better clarity and durability.
Today, gel nail polish is a popular choice for those seeking long-lasting, chip-resistant nail colour.
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The process of gel nail polish application
The popularity of gel nail polish has grown significantly over the years, with Instagram being a major contributor to its fame. In 2017, 86% of salons offered gel polish services, showcasing its widespread adoption. Now, let's delve into the intricate process of gel nail polish application, which involves several steps to achieve a flawless and long-lasting manicure.
Firstly, it is essential to prepare the nails by removing any previous polish and shaping them to the desired style. This involves cutting, filing, and buffing the nails to create a smooth and even surface. The cuticles should also be pushed back gently to provide a clean canvas for the gel polish. Proper nail preparation is crucial to ensure the gel polish adheres well and lasts longer.
Next, a thin base coat is applied to the nails, which can be dried under an LED lamp or allowed to air dry. This step acts as a primer for the gel polish, creating a smooth foundation. Once the base coat is dry, the first layer of gel nail polish can be applied. It is important to work in thin layers and ensure that the gel polish does not come into contact with the surrounding skin.
After the first layer of gel polish is applied, it is cured under a UV or LED lamp for about a minute. This process hardens the gel polish and ensures it adheres securely to the nail. The curing time may vary depending on the specific gel polish brand and lamp being used. It is common to apply multiple thin layers of gel polish, curing each layer under the lamp to create a durable manicure.
Finally, a top coat is applied to seal in the colour and add shine. This final layer is also cured under the lamp, completing the gel polish application process. It is important to note that gel nail polish removal requires more time and care than traditional nail polish. Soaking the nails in pure acetone is the typical method for removing gel polish, and it can take around 5 to 15 minutes.
Gel nail polish application is a meticulous process that requires patience and practice to perfect. With proper application and aftercare, gel manicures can last for up to two weeks, providing long-lasting colour and shine.
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Removal of gel nail polish
The popularity of gel nail polish can be traced back to the late 2000s and early 2010s, with the product experiencing a boom in availability and interest. This was largely due to the emergence of social media platforms like Instagram, which provided a new avenue for nail technicians to showcase their work and connect with clients.
Now, onto the removal of gel nail polish. Gel nail polish is a long-lasting variety of nail polish that, when properly applied and cared for, can remain chip-free for up to two weeks. While its durability is a selling point, it also makes gel nail polish more challenging to remove than traditional nail polish. The most common method for removing gel nail polish is to soak the nails in pure acetone, which is the solvent found in most nail polish removers. This method typically involves the following steps:
Soaking in Acetone
- Prepare your work area: Acetone can damage surfaces, so it is recommended to cover your work area with a plastic wrap or a thick towel.
- Protect your skin: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the skin around your nails to create a protective barrier.
- Soak cotton pads in acetone: Cut the cotton pads to fit your nails, and soak them in a bowl of pure acetone.
- Apply the soaked cotton pads: Place the soaked cotton pads on top of your nails, ensuring they cover the entire nail.
- Wrap your nails: Instead of using foil, which is commonly recommended, Dr. Shari Lipner, a board-certified dermatologist, suggests using plastic food wrap. Wrap each nail tightly, but be careful not to cut off your circulation.
- Wait for 10-15 minutes: The amount of time needed to soak will depend on the formula of the gel nail polish. Check your nails periodically to see if the polish is lifting.
- Remove the wrap and cotton: Most or all of the gel nail polish should come off with the cotton pads. If any residue remains, gently rub your nails with a wet washcloth to remove it.
- Wash your hands: Use gentle soap and water to remove any remaining acetone from your hands.
Alternative Methods
Apart from the acetone soaking method, there are a few other ways to remove gel nail polish:
- Nail filing: This method involves filing or buffing the top layer of the gel nail polish and then soaking or scraping off the remaining product. However, this approach can be damaging to your nails and is not recommended by dermatologists.
- Nail drill: An electric nail drill or nail dremel can be used to carefully remove the bulk of the gel nail polish, followed by hand filing or acetone soaking to finish the job. This method should be performed by a professional to avoid damaging your nails.
- Letting your nails grow out: According to Dr. Lipner, the safest way to remove gel nail polish is to simply let your nails grow. By clipping your nails once a week, you can gradually remove the gel polish while also preventing your nails from catching on objects. This method is slow, as it can take up to six months for fingernails and 12 to 18 months for toenails to grow out completely.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail polish first became popular in the 1980s, alongside other nail enhancements like nail wraps and fiberglass.
Gel nail polish is a long-lasting variety of nail polish made up of a type of methacrylate polymer. It is painted on the nail like traditional nail polish but is cured under a UV lamp or UV LED.
With proper application and home care, gel nail polish can last up to two weeks without chipping.
Gel nail polish is more difficult to remove than regular nail polish. It is usually removed by soaking the nails in pure acetone for five to fifteen minutes, depending on the formula.
Some popular gel nail polish brands include Shellac, Gelish by Nail Harmony, Gelac by IBD, and Gelez by EZ Flow.
