Isla Bennett
When it comes to nail care, there are a lot of options to choose from. One of the most important tools in nail care is the nail file. There are many different types of nail files, each with its own specific use. For example, some files are better suited for artificial nails, while others are designed for natural nails. The type of nail file you should use depends on the condition of your nails and the desired outcome. It is important to choose the right nail file to avoid damaging your nails. When applying gel nail polish, it is recommended to use a medium grit nail file, typically a 100/180 grit file. This type of file is ideal for shaping and buffing natural nails before applying the gel polish. It is also important to note that you should never use a nail file with a grit coarser than 240 on natural nails.
Characteristics and Values of Nail Files for Applying Gel Nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Grit | 100, 150, 180, 240, 1000 |
| Usage | Removing old enhancements, shortening thicker enhancements, rebalancing, removing excess product, shaping natural nails, removing shine, removing gel nails, removing top layers of gel manicure, removing gel polish, buffing, removing scratches, removing sharp edges, blending tips to the natural nail, removing lifting, contouring the whole nail, prepping natural nail, removing product |
| Shape | Straight, half moon, diamond, banana |
| Material | Diamond, glass, sponge |
| Brand | Orly, Erica's ATA, CND Shellac |
| Maintenance | Disinfect after every use, replace every few months, brush dust off, wash with soap, spray or soak with disinfectant liquid |
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What You'll Learn
Nail file grit grades
- 80-grit is one of the coarsest options available, making it extremely sharp and abrasive. This grit level is commonly used for heavy-duty tasks like shaping and reducing the length of thick acrylic or gel extensions. However, it's important to be cautious when using this on natural nails as it can be too harsh and cause damage.
- 100-grit is still quite coarse, though slightly less abrasive than 80-grit. This grit level is used to shape and shorten hard gel or acrylic nails and to buff the surface of an enhancement to smooth harsh lines and deeper imperfections.
- 150-grit provides a medium level of sharpness, making it suitable for a variety of tasks. It is typically used for refining and shaping hard gel or acrylic nails and starting the smoothing process. While less abrasive than lower grits, it still requires careful use on delicate nails.
- 180-grit is the perfect balance between being gentle and effective. It is great for refining and shaping gel or acrylic nails and is also suitable for prepping natural nails without causing damage. This grit level is versatile, making it a staple in any nail technician's kit. It is also the recommended grit level for the gel topcoat to adhere to.
- 240-grit is a softer nail file intended for natural nails. It is used to shorten the nail and file it into shape without destroying the bond between the keratin cells. This grit level is also used to remove shine from the natural nail and eliminate sharp edges.
- 400-grit and above are considered fine-grit nail files, which are ideal for buffing the nail plate to avoid splitting or damaging the nail.
It is important to note that the quality of the nail file also matters. Investing in a high-quality, reusable nail file made of materials like diamond or glass can provide better results and last longer than cheaper alternatives.
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Removing gel nails
Firstly, you'll need to choose the right nail file. A medium grit 100/180 nail file is usually best for removing gel nails. The 100-grit side can be used to reduce the length and take down the surface of the gel, while the softer 180-grit side can be used for shaping the natural nail. It's important to note that you should never use a nail file with a grit coarser than 240 on the surface of your natural nails, as it can cause damage.
When filing, gently drag the file back and forth along each nail until the shine is gone. Take your time and be gentle to avoid damaging your cuticles or nails. Avoid picking the polish off your nails, as this can remove layers of your natural nail and leave them brittle and dry. Instead, use a 180-grit file to break through the top coat before applying a remover. Once the gel polish is completely removed, you can gently buff the nail with a 180-grit buffer, but be careful not to over-thin the nail.
After filing, you'll need to use a remover to fully take off the gel polish. Soak some cotton balls in 100% acetone and place them on top of each nail. You can wrap them with tin foil to keep them in place. Keep in mind that acetone is drying to your nails, so they may be sensitive or brittle afterward.
To maintain the health of your natural nails, it's recommended to invest in high-quality, reusable nail files and buffers. Diamond or glass files can be cleaned and reused many times, and they provide a precise and effective filing experience. Remember to disinfect and replace your files regularly to ensure optimal performance and hygiene.
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Preparing the nail file
Firstly, it's important to invest in a high-quality, reusable nail file. Celebrity nail artist Laura Malarkey recommends diamond or glass nail files, which can be cleaned and reused many times. Cheaper files will need to be replaced more often as the grit wears down faster, so you may end up creating more waste.
Next, you need to prepare your nail file before its first use. New files have sharp edges that could cut your cuticles or sidewalls, so it's important to get rid of these by using two files and filing edge to edge to blunt them slightly. You can choose from different shapes, including straight, half-moon, diamond, and banana, depending on which area you are focusing on. For example, the half-moon shape is good for working around the cuticle area as it has a lower risk of cutting or irritating the skin, while a straight file is best for filing the free edge, sidewalls, and lower arch.
Once you've prepared your file, you can start to work on your nails. If you are filing your natural nails, aim for a file in the 200-240 grit range or a file labelled as "medium grit". A 240-grit file is used to shorten the natural nail and file it into shape without destroying the bond between the keratin cells. If you are filing artificial nails, a lower grit (between 80 and 180) will help you grind through the layers of cured glue or other artificial materials.
If you are applying gel polish, a 180-grit file is best for buffing the surface of a fresh gel enhancement without causing harsh imperfections. A 100-grit buffer can also be used to rough the surface of your nails while keeping them smooth, but be sure not to use this on natural nails as it may cause damage.
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Removing gel polish
To remove gel nails, start by wearing away the top layer of the gel and the top coat with a 180-grit nail file. Gently drag the file back and forth along each nail until it is no longer shiny, being careful not to damage the cuticle or nail. It is important to go slow and take your time during this process. Avoid picking the polish off your nails, as this can remove layers of your nail, leaving them brittle and dry.
Once the top layer of gel is removed, you can soak the nails in acetone to remove the rest of the polish. This can be done by setting an acetone-soaked cotton ball on each nail. It is important to note that only 100% acetone will effectively remove the gel polish. After the gel is removed, you can gently buff the nail with a 180-grit buffer if needed, but be very gentle to avoid thinning the nail.
Another method for removing gel polish is to use a lower grit file, such as an 80-grit, which is more abrasive and can help to grind through the layers of cured glue or artificial material. However, this type of file can damage natural nails, so it should be used with caution.
It is also important to note that the quality of the nail file can impact the effectiveness of the removal process. Higher-quality, reusable nail files may be preferable, as they can provide more precise and efficient results. Additionally, the shape of the nail file can be a factor, with some shapes being more suitable for working around the cuticle area to reduce the risk of irritation or cutting.
Overall, when removing gel polish, it is crucial to use the appropriate grit and type of nail file and to take the necessary precautions to avoid damaging the natural nail.
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Buffing the nail
When buffing your nails in preparation for a gel manicure, it is important to use the correct type of nail file. The ideal grit for this purpose is 180, as this is coarse enough to effectively buff the nail plate without causing damage. A 180-grit file can also be used to remove the top layers of a gel manicure, and to prep the natural nail before applying a gel polish.
It is important to note that you should never use a coarse grit to buff the bare nail plate, as this can cause irreparable damage. Fine-grit nail files usually start at around 400, and if your nails are naturally weak, it is best to opt for a higher grit. For natural nails, a file in the 200-240 grit range is recommended.
When buffing your nails, be sure to take your time and be gentle, especially if you are using a lower grit file. It is also important to disinfect and prepare your nail file before use, as the sides and edges can be very sharp and may cut the cuticle or sidewalls. Additionally, if you file your nails frequently, it is recommended to invest in a high-quality, reusable nail file, such as a diamond or glass file.
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Frequently asked questions
A 180-grit nail file is best for applying gel nails. This is because a 180-grit file is coarse enough to break down the gel product without damaging the natural nail underneath.
First, cut and file your nails so they are all the same length. Then, apply cuticle oil to your cuticles and push them back with a cuticle pusher. Next, buff each of your nails to remove built-up oils and help the gel last longer. Finally, wipe your nails with an alcohol wipe.
A 240-grit nail file is best for natural nails as it is a softer file and will not destroy the bond between the keratin cells.
