Liam Carter
Structured gel manicures are a type of nail treatment that has gained popularity in recent years. This technique involves applying a thick layer of gel to the nails, which helps to reinforce and strengthen the natural nail, providing a protective layer that prevents breakage and adds length. The gel is typically applied in layers and cured under UV or LED light, resulting in a long-lasting manicure that can last for several weeks. Structured gel manicures are ideal for those seeking a durable and low-maintenance option, as they provide a natural-looking finish and can be customised with various colours and designs.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To reinforce natural nails with a supportive layer to protect them from breakage and add strength and support to weak and brittle nails |
| Ingredients | Oligomers and monomers (polymers), photo initiators (molecules that react to UV light), and a rubber base |
| Application | A thicker viscosity builder gel is applied beneath the coating of gel polish to add structure and length to the natural nail |
| Benefits | Long-lasting (3-6 weeks), neat and natural-looking, safe for nails, conceals ridges and discolouration |
| Downsides | Time-consuming, expensive, requires professional removal |
| Tips | Use a dry, clean file to remove the white part of the cuticle so that the gel base adheres properly to the nail |
| Variations | Can be applied as a gel-based extension or directly on the natural nail, pot or bottle form, with or without nail art |
| Brands | Bio Sculpture, Japanese Gel, Vetro, Leafgel, Kokoist, Luminary |
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What You'll Learn
Pros and cons
Structured gel manicures are a type of manicure that uses a thicker gel polish to reinforce the strength and structure of the natural nail. This type of manicure is ideal for those looking for a long-lasting option that can add strength and support to weak and brittle nails. The gel is applied in layers, which helps to prevent peeling or lifting, and can last for up to six weeks.
Pros
Structured gel manicures offer several benefits, including:
- Longevity: Structured gel manicures can last for three to six weeks, depending on nail growth and activity level. This makes them a cost-effective option for those who want to avoid frequent salon visits.
- Strength and protection: The thick gel layers reinforce and strengthen natural nails, providing a protective layer that can help nails withstand wear and tear and promote nail growth.
- Natural-looking results: Structured gels create a neat, clean, and natural-looking manicure that enhances the natural arch and shape of the nail.
- Nail-biting solution: The added thickness and strength of structured gels can help those who struggle with nail-biting or cuticle-picking habits.
- Customization: Structured gels come in various colors and can be used to create nail art, such as French manicures.
Cons
However, there are also some potential drawbacks to consider:
- Time-consuming: Structured gel manicures can take at least two and a half hours to complete, and regular maintenance is required every three to four weeks.
- Expensive: The initial application and subsequent removal can be more expensive than traditional polish or other gel services.
- Professional removal: Structured gel manicures require professional removal to avoid damaging the nails, which can be time-consuming and costly.
- Thickness: Some people may not prefer the thicker gel application and may opt for a thinner, flat polish look.
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Ingredients and application
Structured gel manicures are a type of gel nail application that is applied thicker than just brushing on your gel product, as is the case with a Shellac or Gelish manicure. Structured gel polish typically contains a combination of ingredients such as oligomers and monomers (polymers found in acrylic nail formulas) and photo-initiators (molecules that react to UV light), allowing the substance to cure and set under UV or LED light. The thicker consistency offers longer wear while reinforcing the strength and structure of the natural nail underneath.
The process of getting a structured gel manicure is similar to getting soft gel or Shellac polish, but with more shaping and moulding due to the thicker gel. The nail artist will first prep your nails to create a clean and properly shaped base. This includes cuticle care, such as pushing back the cuticles and filing off the white part of the cuticle attached to the nail plate to allow the gel base to adhere properly. Then, you can choose your desired colour, and a priming product may be used to dehydrate the nail and improve adhesion for the base coat. The base coat is applied and cured, followed by the building gel.
The application of the gel is crucial to achieving the desired structure and aesthetics. The gel is applied thicker than traditional gel products, plumping up the nails similar to fillers for the lips. The thicker viscosity gel has a semi-hard texture, making it durable and self-levelling, allowing for beautiful definition and structure. The manicure can be completed with a gel-based extension or by simply covering the natural nail to add strength and prevent breakage.
The entire process for a new structured gel manicure set can take at least two and a half hours, and the results can last for three to six weeks, depending on nail length and client activity. Structured gel manicures are slightly more expensive than traditional polish or other gel services due to the application time and the sculpting or extension work involved. Additionally, the removal process can be time-consuming and must be done professionally to avoid damaging the nails.
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Removal
The removal process for structured gel nails is important to ensure the health and strength of your natural nails. Poor at-home removal can cause damage, so it is recommended to have structured gel nails professionally removed.
The removal process will vary depending on the specific products used for the manicure. For example, some structured gel nails are soak-off nails, which can be removed by soaking in a solution that breaks down the gel. This method is often used for Japanese gel nails. Other methods may involve filing or buffing the nails to remove the gel.
If you are removing the gel nails at home, it is important to be cautious and gentle to avoid damaging your natural nails. You may need to purchase specific products to safely and effectively remove the gel. It is also important to note that some brands and types of structured gel nails may be more difficult to remove than others, so it is always a good idea to research the specific removal process recommended for the products used.
After removing structured gel nails, it is important to care for and nourish your natural nails. This may include using nail oils or creams to hydrate and strengthen your nails. It is also a good idea to allow your nails to breathe and recover between manicures.
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Comparison to acrylic nails
Structured gel manicures are a great option for those seeking a long-lasting, glossy manicure that can strengthen weak and brittle nails. This type of manicure involves applying a thick layer of gel beneath a coating of gel polish to add structure and protect the natural nail from breakage. The gel is then cured and set under UV or LED light.
Acrylic nails and gel nails are two of the most popular salon nail services, both resulting in a strong, shiny, chip-free manicure that lasts for weeks. However, there are some key differences between the two.
Acrylic nails are created by mixing a liquid monomer and powder polymer to form a gummy paste, which is then painted onto the nail with a brush and hardens when exposed to air. This process allows for a lot of freedom in terms of nail art, as you can play with length, shape, and design. Acrylic nails can be painted onto natural nails or nail extensions to add length.
On the other hand, gel nails use a specific type of nail polish, known as gel nail polish, which is cured with a UV nail lamp to create a long-lasting, shiny manicure. Gel polish can also be applied to natural nails, acrylics, or nail extensions. The application process for gel nails involves applying a base coat, gel polish, and a top coat, with each layer cured under UV light.
One of the main differences between the two is the appearance. Acrylic nails tend to look thicker and bulkier than gel nails, especially if they are not properly filed and shaped. Gel nails can appear more natural, especially with shorter lengths, but they can also look lumpy if the gel is not applied evenly.
Another difference is the maintenance and removal process. Both types of manicures require maintenance to camouflage nail regrowth, but the time between appointments may vary. Clients with natural nail gel manicures typically come in every two weeks, while some acrylic or gel extension clients can go up to three weeks before needing a fill. To remove gel nails, a manicurist will use a fine grit drill to break the seal, followed by wrapping the nails in acetone-soaked cotton balls and foil. Acrylic nails are usually soaked in a bowl of pure acetone for 20 to 30 minutes.
It is important to note that UV nail lamps used for gel nails emit harmful UV rays, which can increase the risk of developing skin cancers. Therefore, it is recommended to apply sunscreen or wear gloves to protect the skin on your hands and fingers during the curing process.
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Nail-biting solution
If you're a nail biter, a structured gel manicure could be a great solution. This type of manicure reinforces your natural nail with a supportive layer of rubber-based gel, adding structure and strength to your nails. This protective layer prevents breakage and allows your natural nails to continue growing underneath.
Structured gel manicures are ideal for those looking for a long-lasting service, typically lasting three to six weeks. The thicker consistency of the gel offers longer wear time, and because it's applied in layers, it won't peel or lift easily. The real benefit of structured gel is its longevity, which means you won't have to worry about your nails for weeks on end, making it perfect for vacations or any other occasion where you want your nails to look their best.
When getting a structured gel manicure, your nail artist will first prep your nails by pushing back and trimming your cuticles, then filing your nail plates to ensure the gel adheres well. They may also use a dry, clean file to remove the white part of the cuticle attached to the nail plate. This process is crucial for optimal gel adhesion and is followed by the application of a base coat and the building gel.
One thing to keep in mind is that structured manicures are quite time-consuming and can take up to two and a half hours or more, especially if you opt for extensions or designs. Additionally, structured gel manicures require professional removal to avoid damaging your nails. The maintenance routine can be time-consuming and expensive, but it's worth it for the neat, clean, and natural-looking results that will last you several weeks.
If you're considering trying a structured gel manicure, you can either opt for a regular gel manicure first and then branch out, or jump straight into structured manicures. It's important to note that there are many products on the market, so you can explore different brands and techniques to find what works best for you.
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Frequently asked questions
A structured gel manicure is a type of manicure that uses a thicker gel polish to add structure and strength to your nails. It involves building up the nail with an apex and providing it with "structure" instead of a thin/flat layer of base gel.
A structured gel manicure typically lasts for three to six weeks, depending on the length of your nails and your activity level.
Structured gel manicures can help reinforce and strengthen your natural nails, making them less prone to breakage and helping them grow longer and healthier. They can also conceal ridges and discolouration, and provide a natural-looking layer that replicates the arch and shape of your nail.
First, your nail technician will push back your cuticles and give them a trim. They will then file your nail plates so that the gel can adhere well. Your nails will then be filed into the desired shape. A rubber base gel is then applied, followed by the structured gel polish of your choice. Finally, a top coat will be applied to finish the manicure.
