Isla Bennett
Gel nail polish has become increasingly popular in recent years, with people flocking to nail salons to get their fix of long-lasting, vibrant manicures. But what is it about the chemical composition of gel polishes that makes them so durable and glossy? The answer lies in the unique combination of ingredients, including methacrylate compounds, photoinitiators, and plasticizers. One of the key ingredients in gel nail polish is methacrylates, which are the building blocks of the polymer network that forms the hard, long-lasting layer on the nail. Photoinitiators, such as benzoyl peroxide, are also crucial as they initiate the polymerization reaction when exposed to UV or LED light, creating a stiff and shiny layer on the nail. The type of light used during curing can affect the quality and safety of the manicure, with newer LED lamps offering faster curing times and reduced exposure to potentially harmful UV radiation.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Main Components | Methacrylate compounds, photoinitiators, and plasticizers |
| Photoinitiators | Benzoyl peroxide, molecules that initiate a chemical reaction upon absorbing light at specific wavelengths |
| UV Light | Ultraviolet light is essential to the curing process of gel nails, activating photoinitiators and creating long polymer chains |
| Curing Process | Polymerization reaction, forming a cross-linked structure that gives gel nails their strength and resistance to chipping |
| Durability | High, due to the formation of strong covalent bonds during the curing process |
| Removal | More difficult to remove than conventional nail polish, requiring soaking or filing |
| Safety Concerns | Potential damage to skin from UV lamps, cancer-causing agents in some chemicals like Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA), and chemical interactions with natural nails |
| Ventilation | Adequate ventilation is important to minimize the presence of volatile organic solvents |
| Hygiene | Sterile tools and proper nail care are crucial to prevent nail infections |
| Creative Possibilities | Gel polish offers extended working time and durability, enabling intricate nail art and designs |
| Health and Safety | There is a growing trend towards polishes free from harmful chemicals, with nourishing ingredients like vitamins and essential oils |
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Methacrylates
Acrylates and methacrylates are chemical compounds used in the production of polymers, especially in nail products. They are the monomers or building blocks of the polymers found in nail gels, builder gels, and acrylic nail systems.
Due to their different reactivities, acrylates and methacrylates pose varying risks of causing allergic reactions. Acrylates are known to have a slightly higher allergy risk and can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Methacrylates are generally considered safer in terms of allergic potential, but they still require careful handling due to their strong bonding properties and potential chemical hazards.
To ensure client safety, nail professionals should be aware of the differences between acrylates and methacrylates and choose products that align with the desired treatment outcomes and their clients' health. Proper ventilation and protective gear are crucial when working with these compounds.
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Photoinitiators
Unlike conventional nail polish, gel nail polish does not contain nitrocellulose and does not contain an entire polymer. Instead, gel nail polish contains the building blocks of a polymer, such as methacrylates, in dissolved form. It also contains photoinitiators, which are molecules that initiate a chemical reaction upon light absorption at a certain wavelength.
The use of ultraviolet (UV) light is essential to any gel manicure. UV light is a type of high-energy radiation that may cause cancer following repeated or prolonged exposure. The UV light causes the photoinitiator to initiate a polymerization reaction, in which the building blocks in the solution connect to form a long polymer chain that hardens on the nail. One of the most common photoinitiators in gel nail polish is benzoyl peroxide. Upon exposure to UV radiation, it breaks down into active molecules that are free radicals, which generate the chemical reaction in which the dissolved components form a stiff and shiny layer on the nail.
The hardening process involves the repeated application of a thin layer of the substance on the nail, exposing it to UV light each time, as UV radiation cannot penetrate a relatively deep layer of gel nail polish. The use of a special curing lamp is what allows gel nail polish to harden in under a minute. Newer LED curing lamps deliver a narrower wavelength of light than fluorescent UV lamps, making the curing process faster and safer.
The choice of photoinitiator depends on the colour of the gel nail polish. Lighter and more specific colours require more specific photoinitiators and can change the wavelength of light needed. Hybrid polishes that cure with exposure to sunlight contain lower concentrations of photoinitiators than polishes that cure with UV or LED lamps. However, because their curing relies on sunlight, these reactive ingredients are present for longer, and there is a higher chance of overexposure.
The increased availability of at-home kits for gel nail treatments has led to an increase in serious allergic reactions. The British Association of Dermatologists believes that the increased use of chemicals to bond and cure gel nail treatments is causing the problem.
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Pigments
The vibrant colours of gel nail polishes are due to the pigments they contain. These can be organic pigments or inorganic minerals. Examples of inorganic minerals used as pigments include chromium oxide, which creates a green colour, and iron oxide, which produces a red colour.
The formulation scientists' challenge is to create a base formula that functions correctly and consistently across the whole product line and allows for easy swapping out of the pigments.
The pigments used in gel nail polishes are the same as those used in conventional nail polishes. However, unlike conventional nail polishes, which dry by solvent evaporation, gel polishes harden or "cure" through a chemical process called photopolymerization. This process involves the creation of long polymer chains through the absorption of ultraviolet light by photoinitiators, which are molecules that initiate a chemical reaction upon exposure to light at a specific wavelength.
One common photoinitiator used in gel nail polishes is benzoyl peroxide, which breaks down into free radical molecules upon exposure to UV light. These free radicals then generate the chemical reaction that forms a stiff and shiny layer on the nail.
The use of UV light in gel manicures has raised safety concerns due to the potential damage it can cause to the skin. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends taking precautions such as applying sunscreen to the hands or wearing opaque gloves during the UV curing process to minimise the risk of skin damage.
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Ultraviolet radiation
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for those seeking a durable manicure that is less likely to chip than traditional nail polish. However, the use of ultraviolet (UV) lamps during the curing and drying process has raised safety concerns due to potential exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
A recent study by the University of California San Diego, in collaboration with the University of Pittsburgh, investigated the effects of nail dryer UV exposure. They exposed human and mouse cell lines to UV light for about 20 minutes, which is longer than the typical drying time in a nail salon. The results indicated that a single 20-minute session led to 20-30% cell death, while three consecutive sessions caused 65-70% of the exposed cells to die. This suggests that the repeated use of UV nail dryers could potentially increase the risk of skin cancer, particularly on the hands and fingers.
To mitigate the risks associated with UV exposure during gel manicures, several precautions can be taken. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying a generous layer of sunscreen with a high SPF (Sun Protection Factor) to the palms of the hands before the treatment. Alternatively, wearing opaque gloves with the tips cut off can protect the hands while exposing the nails. It is also important to choose a reputable nail salon that prioritises hygiene and uses sterile tools to prevent nail infections.
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Safety concerns
The use of gel nail polish has raised several safety concerns, mainly due to the chemicals involved and the ultraviolet (UV) light used in the curing process.
One of the primary concerns is the potential damage caused by UV light, which is essential for curing gel nail polish. The curing process involves exposing the nails to UV light, which can lead to DNA damage, skin ageing, and an increased risk of skin cancer. This risk is present regardless of the type of lamp used, including newer LED curing lamps, as they still emit UV radiation. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying sunscreen with a high SPF to the hands or wearing fingerless gloves during the UV treatment to minimize the risk of skin damage.
Gel nail polish itself contains various chemicals that can be harmful. For example, gel polish contains acrylate and methacrylate, which are known to cause allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis and, less commonly, hives. The removal process of gel polish can also be aggressive, involving soaking in acetone, buffing, scraping, or peeling, which can damage the nail plate and cuticle, leading to temporary nail thinning and brittleness. Additionally, the use of communal jars of powder in salons can be a reservoir for bacteria, fungi, and viruses, posing sanitation risks.
To ensure safety when using gel nail polish, it is recommended to choose a reputable nail salon that prioritizes hygiene and uses sterile tools. It is also crucial to allow time for nails to recover between manicures, moisturize with lotion, and apply cuticle oil during the gel application process. While gel nail polish offers long-lasting colour and resistance to chipping, it is important to be aware of these safety concerns and take the necessary precautions to minimize potential risks.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail polish consists mostly of methacrylate compounds, photoinitiators, and plasticizers. One of the most common photoinitiators in gel nail polish is benzoyl peroxide. Other chemicals in gel nail polish include methyl acrylate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), and pigments.
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends taking certain precautions when using gel nail polish due to the potential health risks associated with ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. It is advised to choose a reputable nail salon that uses sterile tools and applies a generous layer of sunscreen to the hands or provides opaque gloves before treatment. Additionally, it is important to avoid peeling off the polish or using mechanical instruments that can damage the nail, as this increases the risk associated with chemical exposure.
The unique properties of gel nail polish, such as its durability and glossy finish, are achieved through a chemical process called polymerization. During the curing process, photoinitiators in the gel nail polish absorb UV or LED light, initiating a chemical reaction that forms a strong polymer network. This polymer network provides the strength and resilience that characterizes gel nails.
Removing gel nail polish can be challenging due to the strong chemical bonds formed during the curing process. Soft gels can be removed by soaking them in solvents like acetone, while hard gels are more rigid and impermeable, requiring filing to be removed. It is important to note that prolonged use of gel nail polish can affect the hydration levels of the nail plate, so giving nails a break between manicures is crucial for maintaining nail health.
