Ava Monroe
Gel nail polish is a long-lasting alternative to traditional nail polish, but it can still crack and chip. There are several reasons why this might happen. One of the most common causes is over-filing the nails, which weakens the sidewalls and makes them more susceptible to cracking. Applying the gel polish too thickly or too close to the edge of the nails can also lead to cracking, as can using a hard top coat over a more flexible colour gel system. Additionally, if the natural nail is thin or brittle, it may not be able to support the gel polish, leading to stress fractures and cracks. Outside factors, such as frequent hand-washing or typing, can also increase the likelihood of gel nail polish cracking.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Thickness of the coat | Thick coats of polish are more likely to chip and peel. |
| Application technique | If the polish is applied too thickly or too close to the edge of the nails, it will be more prone to cracking. |
| Natural nail thickness | The thinner the natural nail, the more flexible it will be, and the more prone to stress fractures. |
| Nail flexibility | If the natural nail bends beyond the flexibility of the gel, it will start to create stress fractures. |
| Removal technique | Improper removal can cause the nail plate to become thin, which can lead to cracking. |
| Over-filing | Over-filing can weaken the sidewalls of the nail and lead to cracking. |
| Roughing the nail surface | Roughing the surface of the natural nail can cause damage. |
| Buffing the nail surface | Uneven nail surfaces lend to cracks more easily. |
| Residual oil on the nail | Oil on the nail can cause polish to not fully adhere. |
| Water exposure | Water exposure can cause the nail bed to expand and then contract as it dries, which can cause the polish to crack. |
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What You'll Learn
Over-filing or thinning of the natural nail
To avoid over-filing, nail technicians should refrain from shaping the nails too much. This is because over-filing weakens the sidewalls of the nail, making the nail more susceptible to cracking. It is recommended that nail technicians only gently buff the nail with a 240-grit buffer to remove the shine and create a smooth surface for the gel to adhere to. Any roughing of the natural nail surface or use of an e-file is not advised, as there is always a risk of damage to the natural nail.
Additionally, improper removal of gel nail polish can also lead to thinning of the natural nail. When removing gel nail polish outside of a salon, it is important to ensure that it is done safely. Forceful removal will cause delamination and thin the natural nail, making it more prone to cracking in the future. Instead, a safe soak-off process should be followed, and any remaining gel should be removed by booking a salon removal or using an infill rather than pulling it off.
Other factors that can contribute to nail polish cracking include the application process, such as applying thick coats of polish or not allowing enough time for each layer to dry, and the condition of the natural nail, such as dryness or brittleness. It is important to address the root cause of any nail issues and provide proper care to strengthen the nails before applying gel nail polish.
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Using a hard topcoat over a flexible colour gel
To prevent this, it is important to avoid over-filing or thinning the natural nail, as this weakens the sidewalls and can lead to cracking. Instead, gently buff the nail with a 240-grit buffer to remove the shine and create adhesion for the gel. If the natural nail has become too thin, it is recommended to reduce the length of the nail and start a nail 'rehab' program to allow the nail to grow out and repair any damage.
Additionally, it is important to consider the flexibility of the client's nails. Some clients may have more flexible nails and require a softer gel. Experimenting with different products can help determine what works best for each client. It may also be helpful to start with two-week appointments and slowly progress to longer schedules as the client becomes accustomed to the enhancements.
Furthermore, improper removal of gel nails can also lead to thinning of the natural nail. Safe soak-off removal should not be rushed, as any force needed to remove the gel will cause delamination and thin the nail. Advise clients to avoid pulling off any remaining gel and instead book a removal appointment if needed. Infills can also help reduce the risk of damage to the natural nail.
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Brittle, dry, or flakey nails
Brittle, dry, or flaky nails are a common issue, with nearly 20% of the world population suffering from weak nails. There are several factors that can cause this issue. Firstly, the natural thickness of your nails plays a role in their flexibility. Thinner nails are more flexible, and if they bend beyond the flexibility of the gel on top, they can develop stress fractures that eventually lead to cracks or breakages.
Over-filing or thinning of the natural nail is one of the leading causes of nail issues. Nail technicians often file nails aggressively before applying gel polish to improve adherence. However, this can weaken the sidewalls and lead to cracking. Additionally, improper removal of gel polish can also cause the nail plate to thin. When removing gel polish outside of a salon, it is important to educate yourself on safe removal techniques to avoid damaging your nails.
Another factor that can contribute to brittle nails is the use of nail polish and nail polish remover. These products often contain strong chemicals that can dry out and weaken your nails, making them more prone to cracking. Additionally, the frequent use of gel manicures, especially during the winter when nails tend to be driest, can further exacerbate the problem.
In some cases, brittle nails can also be a symptom of underlying medical conditions. For example, if your nails are cracking, and you notice them getting thicker or turning yellow, it may indicate a fungal infection. Aging is another factor that can contribute to nail brittleness.
To address brittle, dry, or flaky nails, it is recommended to focus on nail care and hydration. This includes regularly using nail oil or hand lotion, and trying paraffin wax baths to moisturize your hands and nails. Additionally, consider reducing the length of your nails and starting a nail "rehab" program to allow them to grow out any damage.
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Incorrect application of the polish
Another common mistake is applying thick coats of polish, which can lead to chipping and peeling. It is important to apply thin coats of polish, ensuring it is not too close to the edge of the nails, to create a stronger and more durable manicure. Additionally, it is crucial to allow each layer of polish to dry properly before applying the next coat. Nails are porous and can absorb water, causing the nail bed to expand. When the nails contract, the polish is more likely to crack.
Applying a top coat is essential to protect the polish from chips and scuffs. However, it should be applied carefully to ensure it fully covers the polish without touching the cuticles. Any polish on the skin or cuticles can cause the polish to lift and chip more easily. A proper manicure should include a base coat, two coats of colour, and a final top coat.
The natural nail provides the base for the gel polish. If the natural nail is thin or brittle, it can create stress fractures that lead to cracking. It is important to address any nail issues before applying gel polish. This may include using nail-strengthening oils and polishes, ensuring proper nutrition, and allowing nails to strengthen between manicures.
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Exposure to water
The water content of the natural nail can increase while wearing gels or nail coatings, increasing the nail's flexibility. If nails are left bare, the water content evaporates, and nails return to their normal state. However, if the natural nail becomes too thin, it can lead to stress fractures. These fractures start as small cracks but can lead to visible cracks or breakages with repetitive bending or bumping.
Over-filing or thinning of the natural nail is a leading cause of nail issues. It weakens the sidewalls and leads to cracking. It is advised to avoid shaping the nails too much and causing damage to the natural nail. A gentle buff with a 240-grit file to remove the shine is sufficient for adhesion.
Additionally, the application technique plays a crucial role in preventing cracking. Thick coats of polish are more prone to chipping and peeling. It is recommended to apply thin coats of polish, ensuring it is not too close to the edge of the nails, to make it stronger and less likely to crack.
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Frequently asked questions
Thick coats of nail polish are more prone to chipping and peeling. Nails are porous and can absorb water, which expands the nail bed. When the nails dry and contract, the polish can crack.
If your nails are brittle, dry, or flakey, the polish will eventually reflect this and begin to crack. Even if the nail polish has a super-strong bond, a damaged nail surface will cause it to crack.
Opt for nail-strengthening oils and polishes. Ensure that you are getting enough nutrients and vitamins. Give your nails a break from polish until they are stronger and healthier.
Yes, over-filing your nails can cause cracking. The natural nail is the base that supports your nail product. If it bends beyond its flexibility, it creates stress fractures that lead to visible cracks.
Yes, if you are using a hard topcoat over a more flexible colour gel system, this can also lead to cracking.
