Caleb Foster
Gel manicures are a popular choice for those wanting long-lasting, chip-free nails. However, the process of applying and removing gel nail polish can be tough on nails, causing brittleness, peeling, and cracking. The UV or LED lights used to cure gel nail polish emit UV radiation, which has been linked to premature skin aging and skin cancer. Additionally, the removal process can be time-consuming and damaging, often involving soaking nails in acetone. To keep nails healthy, dermatologists recommend taking breaks between gel manicures, nourishing nails and cuticles with oil and moisturizer, and being mindful of the tools and techniques used during application and removal.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Effect on nail health | Can cause nail brittleness, peeling, and cracking, dryness, white spots, and thinning |
| Effect on skin health | Can increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging on the hands due to UV exposure |
| Removal process | Requires time and effort, usually involving soaking nails in acetone or filing off the top layer |
| Nail care | Proper application and removal techniques, good nail care, and choosing the right products are essential to maintain nail health |
| Protection | Applying sunscreen or wearing UV-protective gloves can help reduce UV exposure and its potential risks |
| Cuticle care | Cuticles should not be cut or pushed as it can lead to inflammation and infection; using cuticle oil can help maintain nail health |
| Nail health recovery | Taking breaks between gel manicures and nourishing nails with moisturizer and cuticle oil can help restore nail health |
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The risks of UV exposure
While gel manicures can be beautiful and long-lasting, the UV exposure that comes with curing lamps poses several health risks.
The UV curing process is essential for hardening gel nail polish, but it can also damage DNA and mutate cells, increasing the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands. The cumulative effect of UV exposure can be harmful over time, and there is currently no standard for how long hands should be kept under the lamp. The skin on your hands is particularly vulnerable to UV damage during the manicure process, as it receives direct exposure.
UVA rays, which are used to cure gel manicures, are the most mutagenic wavelength range of the UV spectrum, penetrating the skin more deeply than UVB rays. This means that they play a more significant role in skin cancer development and premature skin ageing, such as wrinkles and sun spots.
To minimise the risks associated with gel nail polish, it is essential to take precautionary measures. Applying sunscreen to your hands before your gel nail appointment can help shield your skin from harmful UV rays. You can also wear UV-protective gloves during the curing process, which are designed to cover your hands while leaving your nails exposed, reducing UV exposure.
Additionally, some brands offer long-lasting, fast-drying gel polishes that do not need to be cured by UV light. Dip powder polishes are another alternative, which are applied directly to the nail and air-dried.
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Removal techniques
Gel nail polish can cause temporary nail damage and repeated use may increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing. To keep your nails healthy, dermatologists recommend taking a nail polish break for one to two weeks or longer. This will allow your nails to recover.
If you're removing gel nail polish at home, there are several methods you can try. However, it's important to note that picking, scraping, or filing off gel nail polish can damage your nails.
- Acetone Soak-Off: Start by filing down the top coat of your gel nail polish with a coarse nail file until it's no longer shiny. Then, soak cotton balls in 100% pure acetone and place them on your nails. Wrap your nails with aluminium foil or plastic food wrap to hold the cotton balls in place and let them soak for 10 to 20 minutes. Finally, gently push off the gel polish with a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick.
- Gel Nail Polish Remover: Use a coarse nail file on the top coat layer until it loses its shine. Apply a thick layer of gel polish remover to your nails, avoiding your skin. After 5 minutes, the gel polish should start to peel or crack. Use a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently remove the polish.
- Nail Growth: This method involves letting your nails grow out and clipping them once a week to remove the gel nail polish. This is a slow process and can take up to 6 months for fingernails and 12 to 18 months for toenails.
After removing your gel nail polish, it's important to rehydrate your nails and cuticles with a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly or cuticle oil.
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Nail damage
While gel nail polish itself may not damage your nails, the application and removal processes can. The preparation work for gel nails, such as filing and the use of curing lamps, can thin the nail plate and cause temporary nail damage. Additionally, the curing process involves exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, which can cause skin ageing and DNA damage that may lead to cancer. The repeated use of gel manicures can therefore increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands.
To prevent nail damage, it is recommended to take breaks between gel manicures to allow your nails to recover. During this time, you can apply a moisturising product, such as petroleum jelly, to your nails and cuticles several times a day to minimise brittleness and help prevent chipping. It is also important to use proper application and removal techniques, practice good nail care, and choose the right products to maintain nail strength and health.
To avoid the risks associated with UV exposure, you can apply sunscreen to your hands before a gel manicure. Look for a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Mineral sunscreens that contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly effective. You can also wear UV-protective fingerless gloves to keep the rest of your hand protected.
When removing gel nail polish, do not pick at the polish or peel it off, as this can damage your nails. Instead, have the gel polish removed by a manicurist, or use the correct removal process at home. Rough up the surface of the gel with an emery board, then soak cotton balls in acetone and apply them directly to the nail bed, ensuring the cotton does not touch the surrounding skin. Wrap the nails with aluminium foil to keep the cotton balls in place and prevent the acetone from evaporating.
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Skin damage
While gel nail polish itself does not damage your nails, the process of applying and removing gel nail polish can be harmful to your skin. The UV or LED lights used to cure gel nail polish emit UV radiation, which has been linked to premature skin ageing and skin cancer. Dermatologists warn that repeated use of gel manicures can increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands.
To protect your skin from UV radiation, it is recommended to apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands before your gel manicure. Mineral sunscreens that contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are faster-acting than other types of sunscreen. You can also wear UV-protective fingerless gloves with the fingertips cut off to protect your skin during the manicure.
Additionally, the tools used to apply and remove gel nail polish can cause skin damage if they are not properly sterilised. Unsterilised tools can lead to fungal or bacterial infections. It is important to ensure that your manicurist is cleaning and disinfecting their tools after each client.
To maintain healthy skin and nails, it is recommended to take breaks from gel manicures and allow your nails to repair and rehydrate. Applying cuticle oil and moisturiser to your nails and cuticles can help prevent brittleness and reduce the risk of peeling.
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Cuticle care
While gel manicures can be beautiful and long-lasting, they can be tough on nails. Gel manicures can cause nail brittleness, peeling, and cracking, and repeated use can increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands. Therefore, it is important to care for your nails and cuticles properly to keep them healthy.
- Do not cut or push your cuticles: Your cuticle is your body's natural barrier to protect your nail from infection. Cutting or pushing your cuticles can lead to inflammation and infection.
- Moisturise your cuticles: Apply cuticle oil or hand cream daily to keep your nails and the surrounding skin hydrated. This will help prevent your nails from chipping and breaking.
- Avoid harsh chemicals: Water and chemicals can weaken the gel and cause it to lift or chip. Wear gloves when doing chores, especially if they involve water or harsh chemicals.
- Be gentle with your nails: Do not use your nails as tools to open cans or remove staples. Treat your nails gently and avoid using them to pry things open.
- Protect your nails from UV exposure: If you are using a curing lamp, apply sunscreen to your hands beforehand to protect your skin from UV radiation. You can also wear UV-protective fingerless gloves.
- Take breaks between gel manicures: Give your nails a break between applications to allow them to repair and recover. Try not to wear nail polish for one to two weeks or longer.
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Frequently asked questions
While gel nail polish doesn't directly damage your nails, the prep work (filing) can thin your nail plate. The removal process can also be damaging if not done correctly. Therefore, it's important to use proper application and removal techniques, practice good nail care, and choose the right products to maintain their strength and health.
To remove gel nail polish correctly, you should first rough up the surface of the gel with an emery board. Then, soak cotton balls in acetone and apply them directly to the nail bed, ensuring the cotton doesn't touch the surrounding skin. Wrap the nails with aluminium foil to keep the cotton balls in place.
To protect your nails, it's important to keep them hydrated and nourished. Apply cuticle oil and hand cream regularly, and avoid cutting or pushing back your cuticles as this can lead to inflammation and infection. You can also apply sunscreen to your hands before using a curing lamp to protect your skin from UV radiation.
It's recommended to take breaks between gel manicures to give your nails time to recover. Try to leave at least one to two weeks between manicures, and ensure you're using the correct techniques and products to avoid damage.
