Liam Carter
Gel nail varnish is a popular choice for those seeking a long-lasting, chip-free manicure. However, there are concerns about its potential negative effects on nail health. Some people experience nail thinning, brittleness, and other types of damage after removing gel polish, especially if it is not done carefully by a professional. Additionally, the UV light used to cure gel polish may cause skin damage and increase the risk of skin cancer. While modern gel formulas alone are considered harmless, the chemicals they contain can lead to allergic reactions and other issues. Spacing out gel manicures and prioritising proper removal techniques can help mitigate these risks.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Pros | Dries quickly, rarely chips, long-lasting |
| Cons | Exposure to UV light, thinning of nails, allergic reactions, damage during removal |
| Chemicals in gel nail polish | Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), Triphenyl phosphate (TPHP), Toluene, Formaldehyde |
| Side effects | Itchiness, swelling, burning, brittle nails, yellow nails, weakened nails, skin damage, rash, eczema, grooves, white spots |
| Precautions | Space out manicures, follow proper aftercare instructions, visit a professional for removal |
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What You'll Learn
Gel nail varnish removal
While gel nail polish offers a longer-lasting and chip-resistant finish, improper removal can weaken or damage your nails. It is recommended to visit a professional to ensure proper care and maintenance. However, if you want to remove gel nail polish at home, here are some general steps to follow:
Prepare Your Nails
Before starting the removal process, trim your nails to a shorter length and apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to each cuticle and the surrounding skin. This will help protect your skin from the acetone, which can be irritating and damaging.
Soak Nails in Acetone
Acetone is the most effective way to remove gel nail polish at home. Instead of wrapping your nails in foil, use plastic food wrap as it creates a tighter seal, reducing the risk of acetone dripping. Leave the plastic wrap on for about 10 minutes.
Remove the Polish
After removing the plastic wrap, most or all of the gel nail polish should come off with it. Use a washcloth soaked in warm water to gently rub off any remaining polish. Be careful to only rub the nail and avoid the surrounding skin.
Wash and Moisturize
Finally, wash your hands or feet with a gentle, fragrance-free soap and water to remove any residual acetone. Apply petroleum jelly to your cuticles and the skin around your nails for the next seven days to reduce any irritation caused by the acetone.
It is important to note that you should not pick, peel, or file off gel nail polish, as it can cause significant damage to your nails. If you want to avoid the hassle and potential damage of removing gel nail polish, you can simply let your nails grow out and clip them once a week to gradually remove the gel polish.
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Chemicals in gel nail varnish
The main difference between gel nail polish and conventional nail polish is that gel nail polish requires a UV lamp to cure the polish. This is because gel nail polish does not contain a polymer; instead, it contains the building blocks of a polymer, such as methacrylates, in dissolved form. The UV light triggers a chemical reaction that causes the dissolved components to form a stiff and shiny layer on the nail.
One of the most common photoinitiators in gel nail polish is benzoyl peroxide. This chemical breaks down into active molecules that are free radicals, which generate the chemical reaction in which the dissolved components form a stiff and shiny layer on the nail. Other common photoinitiators include diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide.
Gel nail polish also contains pigments and stabilizers, similar to conventional nail polish. However, unlike conventional nail polish, gel nail polish does not contain nitrocellulose.
While modern gel polish formulas are considered virtually harmless, there are still some risks involved in their use. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends carefully choosing your nail salon and making sure sterile tools are used during application. Additionally, it is important to protect your skin from the UV light used to cure the gel nail polish, as it can cause skin ageing and increase the risk of skin cancer.
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UV light exposure
The use of UV light to cure gel nail polish is a cause for concern. The American Academy of Dermatology states that the predominant form of ultraviolet radiation emitted by both LED nail lamps and UV lights, UVA rays, can penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays. This can cause skin damage, premature ageing, and an increased risk of skin cancer.
According to dermatologist Chey Ranasinghe, MD, "the less UV exposure you give your hands, the better". The cumulative bursts of UV exposure during the curing process of gel manicures increase UV-induced skin damage and the risk of skin cancer.
However, experts agree that brief exposure is unlikely to cause significant harm. One study revealed that numerous visits would be required to incur skin damage. Dermatologist Dana Stern advises protecting your hands with a broad-spectrum sunscreen applied 15 minutes before exposure or using fingertip-less gloves or pedicure socks to protect the skin on the hands and feet from the ageing effects of UV light.
The removal process is also a common time to experience nail damage, so it is important to do this correctly. The gel removal process involves soaking the fingertips in acetone, which can cause dryness and dehydration, leading to brittle nails, peeling, and irritation.
To maintain nail health, it is recommended to space out gel manicures and ensure proper care and maintenance, such as visiting a professional for both application and removal.
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Healthier alternatives
There are several alternatives to gel nail polish that can be healthier for your nails. Firstly, it is important to note that the damage caused by gel nail polish is often due to improper nail preparation or removal. Therefore, if you do choose to use gel nail polish, it is crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions for removal and ensure that you do not mix different brands. Additionally, it is recommended to visit a professional for both the application and removal of gel nail polish to minimise potential damage.
One alternative to gel nail polish is a regular nail polish with a top coat. There are now many long-lasting nail polishes available that can provide a similar finish to gel nail polish. For example, Chanel's Le Vernis nail polishes, paired with their Le Gel Coat top coat, can provide a thick, glassy layer that resembles gel nails and lasts for a week or more. Similarly, CND's Vinylux nails provide a base and colour coat with a top coat that can last for up to five days without chipping. Nails Inc. also offers a range of long-wearing formulations, including the Gel Effect range, which provides beautiful shades with a subtle iridescence.
If you are looking for a longer-lasting option, there are some hybrid formulas available. Polygel, for instance, combines the benefits of acrylic powder and clear gel powder. It offers longer wear but requires more maintenance as you need to fill in the area of growth rather than removing and starting fresh. Another option is Shellac, which is a hybrid of gel and regular polish that offers a high-gloss finish and protection for up to two weeks. However, Shellac must be fully soaked off and not filed or scraped to avoid damaging your nails.
For those who want a similar effect to gel nails without the use of a UV lamp, there are UV-free manicure options. Manucurist's Green Flash system, for instance, provides a special base coat, colour, and top coat that cure under an LED light. This system is removed with a cotton pad soaked in nail polish remover, avoiding UV exposure. Additionally, there are nail wraps and stickers that can be applied on top of the nail and secured without any UV light curing, providing a long-lasting effect similar to gel nails.
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Licensed professionals
One of the main concerns with gel nail varnish is the exposure to ultraviolet radiation during the curing process. Both LED nail lamps and UV lights emit ultraviolet radiation, predominantly in the form of UVA rays. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, UVA rays can penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays and can cause skin damage, including premature aging and an increased risk of skin cancer. While brief exposure is unlikely to cause significant harm, licensed professionals should be cautious and advise clients accordingly.
Another issue with gel nail varnish is the potential for nail damage, especially during the removal process. Improper removal can weaken or damage nails, and it is important to follow manufacturer instructions and seek professional help if needed. Some common issues include brittle, thin nails that split, as well as peeling, white spots, and grooves. Licensed professionals should educate clients on proper aftercare instructions to minimise these risks.
Additionally, gel nail varnish contains chemicals that may cause allergic reactions or irritation in some individuals. These include acrylate and methacrylate, which are known to cause contact dermatitis and, less frequently, hives. Licensed professionals should be aware of these potential side effects and advise clients to seek medical advice if they experience any adverse reactions.
While the long-term effects of gel nail varnish are still being studied, licensed professionals should stay informed about the latest research and take precautions to ensure the safety of their clients. This includes proper application and removal techniques, as well as providing aftercare instructions to minimise the risk of nail damage and adverse reactions.
Overall, while gel nail varnish can provide a durable and long-lasting manicure, licensed professionals should be aware of the potential risks and take the necessary steps to ensure the safety and well-being of their clients.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail varnish is not necessarily bad for your nails, but improper removal can weaken or damage them.
The removal process is the most common time to experience nail damage. Gel nail varnish also requires UV light to cure and harden, which can cause skin damage, premature ageing, and an increased risk of skin cancer.
Soak your fingertips in acetone for around 15 minutes, or wrap aluminium foil around acetone-soaked cotton balls on the fingertips.
Traditional nail polish is a liquid that dries when exposed to air. It does not last as long as gel nail varnish, but it does not require UV light to cure and harden.
Gel nail varnish lasts longer than traditional nail polish, is less prone to chipping, and dries instantly.
