Liam Carter
Creating a gel manicure with nail tip guides can be a complex process, but with practice, it can be mastered in no time. Before starting, it is important to remove any old nail polish or gel nails with acetone and to push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher. The next step is to choose the desired shape and length of the nail tip guides, which typically come in coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval shapes, and extra-short, short, medium, long, and extra-long lengths. After assigning a nail tip to each natural nail, the nail tech will glue the nail tips onto the top of the nail and apply gel or acrylic. The gel is then cured under a UV or LED nail lamp, and the final step is to fix up the edges with a nail file.
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What You'll Learn
Preparing your nails
Start by removing any old nail polish, gel nails, or tips. Use acetone to wipe off nail polish with a cotton pad. If you have old gel nails, wrap them in acetone-soaked cotton pads before gently scraping the gel off. Soak your hands in warm water for 5 to 10 minutes to soften your cuticles. Then, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the thin layer of cuticle skin, exposing as much of your natural nail as possible. Be careful not to push too hard, as this can be painful and cause damage. Trim off any hangnails or excess skin with a cuticle trimmer if needed.
The next step is to roughen the surface of your natural nails. Use a nail buffer or buffing block to create a slightly uneven texture, as this will help the gel polish adhere better. Remember, you are trying to roughen your nails, not make them smooth. After buffing, ensure there is no dust, debris, or natural oils left on your nails, as this can interfere with the gel's ability to bond. Use a cotton pad or brush soaked in acetone to remove any residue.
Finally, choose the appropriate nail tips for your desired manicure style. Select a set of nail tips in your preferred shape and length, ensuring they match the widths of your natural nails. Popular shapes include coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval, and lengths typically range from extra-short to extra-long. Avoid white nail tips, as they require more preparation for the gel to bond effectively.
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Choosing the right nail tip guides
Nail Tip Shape and Length:
Nail tips come in various shapes, including coffin, almond, stiletto, square, rounded, oval, and squoval. Choose a shape that complements your desired manicure style and natural nail shape. It is important to select a tip with a straight sidewall to ensure a secure fit and avoid compromising the lateral wall structure. Additionally, consider the length of the nail tips. They typically come in extra-short, short, medium, long, and extra-long options. Select the length that aligns with your preferred manicure style and natural nail length.
Tip Material and Quality:
Most nail tips are made of plastic, specifically acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). This material is durable, flexible, and resistant to yellowing. When purchasing nail tips, opt for "virgin" or pure plastic, which does not contain any recycled material. Recycled plastic may cause quality issues, such as cracking, when re-melted and reused.
Well Type:
The well is the thinner area of the nail tip that comes in contact with your natural nail. There are three main types of wells: full-well, half-well, and well-less tips. Full-well tips have the largest contact point and offer the best grip, making them ideal for camouflaging imperfections. However, they require more blending and are best covered with opaque polish or a coloured product. Half-well tips offer less coverage and are quicker to apply and blend. Well-less tips are the most versatile as they can be applied anywhere on the nail plate and do not require blending.
Tip Size:
Ensure that you choose a tip that fits your natural nail size correctly. A tip that is too small will leave vulnerable areas of your natural nail exposed, making them more prone to damage and causing discomfort. On the other hand, oversizing the tip and not tailoring it to fit can also cause discomfort and leave excess tip material. Examine your natural nails and select a tip size that aligns with the width and curvature of your nails.
Adhesive Selection:
The choice of adhesive is crucial for securing the nail tips in place. Opt for a professional-grade glue or resin designed specifically for nails. These adhesives vary in thickness and setting time, so choose one that provides the right amount of support and allows you to work at your preferred pace. If you are new to applying nail tips, slower-setting glue may offer more flexibility and wiggle room for adjustments.
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Applying the gel polish
Before applying the gel, you must roughen the surface of your nails. Use a buffing block to create a rough texture on your natural nails and the tips. This will help the gel layers adhere better. Now, you are ready to apply the gel polish. Remember that less is more. It is better to apply multiple thin layers than one thick coat. Apply the gel from your cuticle to the free edge of the fake nail tip. Be sure to cap the free edge by painting all the way to the edge of the nail and a little under. This will prevent your nails from lifting and provide better protection from chips. Avoid getting polish on your skin, but if you do, use a thin brush dipped in acetone to clean up the cuticles and nail edges.
Cure the gel under a UV or LED nail lamp according to the manufacturer's recommended timeframe. You may need to cure the nails multiple times throughout the process, depending on the gel polish system you are using. After curing, you can add a coat of standard nail polish or nail art elements if desired. Finish with a topcoat of finishing gel, curing the nails one last time. Finally, fix up the edges with a nail file to perfect the nail shape and remove any excess gel.
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Curing the gel
To cure your gel nail polish, start by applying a thin layer of the gel base coat to each nail, capping the free edge to seal the polish. Place your hand under the lamp and activate it. Cure the base coat for the recommended time, typically between 10 to 60 seconds, depending on the lamp wattage, gel polish brand, and lamp type. LED lamps generally cure faster than UV lamps and are more energy-efficient, but both achieve the same result.
After curing the base coat, apply a thin layer of gel polish colour, ensuring even application and capping the free edge. Cure this layer under the lamp for the recommended time, usually between 30 seconds to two minutes, depending on the lamp and polish. If your gel polish is sheer, you can apply additional gel layers, curing each layer under the lamp. Remember, thin layers will cure faster than thick layers and prevent wrinkling.
Once you're happy with your gel polish coating, apply a thin layer of the gel top coat and cure for the recommended time, typically at least a minute. After curing, some gel polishes may leave a sticky residue called the inhibition layer. This can be removed by wiping your nails with rubbing alcohol or a cleanser designed for gel nails.
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Aftercare
Keep Nails Dry and Clean
Water and chemicals are the enemies of gel nails. Avoid prolonged exposure to water, especially immediately after a manicure. When washing dishes, cleaning, or performing any tasks that involve water or chemicals, wear gloves to protect your nails.
Moisturise
Keep your nails and cuticles hydrated by applying lotion or oil. However, avoid applying these products directly to the nail surface; instead, focus on the surrounding skin and cuticle area.
Be Gentle
Treat your nails with care and avoid using them as tools. Do not use your nails for tasks like prying open cans or peeling stickers, as this can cause chipping and lifting.
Avoid Picking or Peeling
If your gel manicure starts to lift, resist the urge to pick or peel it off. Instead, book an appointment with a professional to have it properly removed to avoid damaging your natural nails.
Avoid Excessive Heat
Minimise exposure to excessive heat, such as hot water in showers or when doing dishes. Excessive heat can weaken the bond between the gel polish and your nails, leading to chipping and lifting.
Regular Maintenance
Maintain the shape and structure of your nails by leaving any cutting or filing to the professionals. They have the expertise and tools to do this without damaging your gel manicure or natural nails.
Protect Your Nails
When applying or removing gel nail polish, use a UV gel manicure glove to protect your skin from the UV light. Long-term exposure to UV light can be harmful to your skin.
By following these aftercare tips, you can keep your gel manicure looking fresh and vibrant while maintaining the health and strength of your nails.
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Frequently asked questions
First, remove any old nail polish, gel nails, or tips with acetone. Then, use a nail buffer to roughen the surface of your nails. Make sure there is no dust, debris, oils or creams left on your nails as this will prevent the gel from sticking. Finally, push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher and trim off any hangnails.
Start by applying a thin coat of gel polish from your cuticle to the free edge of the nail, avoiding the cuticles and sidewalls. Then, cure your nails under a UV or LED lamp for the recommended time. Repeat this process for as many coats as you desire, but remember that applying more thin layers is better than fewer thick layers. Finish with a topcoat of finishing gel and cure your nails one last time.
Nail tips are plastic-shaped tips that the nail technician glues onto the top of the nail. Choose natural or clear tips in your desired shape and length, and assign one nail tip to each of your natural nails. Before applying the gel polish, use a buffing block to roughen the surface of the nail tips. Then, apply the gel layers and cure under a UV or LED lamp as normal.
Soak your nails in acetone and the gel should crumble off without needing to forcefully scrape it. Do not pick off your gels as this will damage the nail underneath.
