Caleb Foster
Gel manicures are a popular choice for those seeking a long-lasting, natural-looking manicure with the strength of acrylic nails. However, as nails grow out, the shape may no longer be to the wearer's liking, or the design or colour may no longer be wanted. This article will explore how to update gel nails, including reshaping, removing and reapplying gel polish, and caring for natural nails.
How to update gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| How often to update | Every 10-14 days for a touch-up, every 2-3 weeks for a colour change |
| When to update | When bored of the look, or when the shape needs changing |
| How to remove previous colour | Use nail clippers/nippers, or a carbide efile bit |
| How to smooth the nail | Use a fine ceramic bit |
| How to clean the nail | Use an alcohol-moistened wipe |
| How to prevent imperfections | Ensure the nail is free from imperfections before applying gel |
| How to prevent overflow | Remove any cuticle or hangnails before curing |
| How to shape the nail | Use a medium grit file (150 or 180) |
| How to prevent damage to the seal | Do not reshape on a French manicure |
| How to dust off the nail | Use a dry brush, then wet the brush with 90% alcohol |
| How to apply base coat | Apply a thin layer, dry under an LED lamp for 1-2 minutes, or air dry for 10 minutes |
| How to apply colour | Apply a thin layer, cure under an LED lamp for 30 seconds, or a UV lamp for 2 minutes |
| How to seal the nail | Apply a layer of clear top coat |
| How to remove gel polish | Soak cotton balls in acetone, wrap in tin foil |
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What You'll Learn
How to update gel nails at home
Doing gel nails at home is a great way to save money and time. The process is similar to a traditional nail polish procedure, but you will need a gel nail kit to properly apply and remove the polish. Here is a step-by-step guide to achieving salon-worthy gel nails at home:
Prepare your nails:
First, decide on the nail shape you want – round, square, pointy, almond, or oval – and cut and file your nails accordingly. Next, use a cuticle stick to push back any dead skin off your nail plate. You can also use cuticle oil to soften your cuticles and make this process easier. Remember to wash or soak your hands afterward to ensure there is no oil left on your nails, as this can cause your gel nails to lift.
Buff your nails:
Nail buffing is crucial to achieving a smooth and even nail surface. Use a nail buffer made of fine grit to buff your entire nail from edge to edge. This step will help the gel polish adhere to your nails better and last longer without chipping or peeling.
Apply the base coat:
Apply a very thin layer of the base coat gel polish to your nails, being careful to seal the edges and avoid getting any on your cuticles. The base coat should then be cured under a UV or LED lamp for 1 minute or 30 seconds, respectively.
Apply the gel polish:
Again, apply a very thin layer of gel polish from cuticle to free edge, sealing the edges. Place your hand under the UV light for 3 minutes for dark colors or 2 minutes for light colors. You may need to repeat this step for even coverage.
Apply the top coat:
Apply a thin coat of the gel polish top coat from cuticle to free edge and cure under the UV lamp for 2 minutes or under the LED lamp for 30 seconds.
Finish with cuticle oil:
After curing the top coat, wipe off the tacky surface with a nail cleanser and lint-free nail wipes. Finally, add a couple of drops of cuticle oil to the skin surrounding your nails for a hydrating treat.
Removing gel nails at home:
To remove your gel nails, start by filing off the top coat, which will make the gel easier to remove. Then, soak your nails in acetone by placing acetone-soaked cotton balls on top of each nail and wrapping them with tin foil. After this, the gel should be easier to scrape off with a cuticle pusher.
Remember that practice makes perfect, so don't be discouraged if your first attempt is not successful! With the right supplies and a bit of patience, you'll be able to achieve salon-quality gel nails at home in no time.
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Removing embellishments and reshaping nails
Removing Embellishments
To remove nail embellishments, you will need a blunt nail clipper or nipper, or a carbide efile bit. Avoid using ceramic as it can chip off and damage the bit. Carefully take your time with this step and do not force sharp objects into the natural nail and skin.
If you are using a carbide efile bit, you can use a striping brush and your top coat to seal the edges of your embellishment. This will help to secure the embellishment, similar to how a jewel is secured on a ring.
Reshaping Nails
Reshaping nails involves clipping and filing to achieve the desired nail shape. First, clip your nails to the desired length. Then, use a nail file to shape them. If you are reshaping gel nails, it is recommended to use a medium grit file, such as a 180 or 150 grit file. When filing, be gentle and file in one direction to avoid splitting or lifting, which can be caused by filing back and forth.
If you are using a board hand file, instead of placing the file on top of the nail, try putting it under the nail to avoid filing off the top coat. This way, you can use a regular top coat on your gel manicure because you are just reshaping.
It is important to note that if you have French tip nails, reshaping them can break the seal on the white tip, causing it to start collecting pigment from your clothing or discoloration.
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Applying a base coat
After shaping and buffing your nails, you can apply the base coat. It is important to apply an extremely thin layer of the base coat gel polish onto your nails. Then, cure your nails under a UV light for 120 seconds. Remember to make the layer as thin as possible to avoid a big mess. If you get the polish on your skin, use some acetone to wipe it away before curing your nails.
The base coat plays a vital role in achieving lasting and aesthetically pleasing gel manicures. It acts as a bonding agent between the natural nail and the gel polish, enhancing the adhesion between the two. This prevents premature chipping and peeling, which are common issues with gel polish applications. By creating a smooth canvas on the nail surface, the base coat ensures that the gel polish applies evenly, resulting in a more polished and professional look.
Additionally, the base coat prevents the natural oils of your nails from interfering with the gel polish. Without a base coat, these oils can seep through, causing the polish to weaken and lose its luster. Therefore, the base coat is an indispensable step in the pursuit of flawless and long-lasting gel nails.
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Applying gel nail polish
Prepare your nails:
Start by cutting your nails to the desired length and shape. You can create round, square, pointy, almond, or oval nails, depending on your preference. It is important to decide on the shape before you begin, as, unlike acrylic nails, gel nails cannot be shaped after application. Use a nail file to shape your nails and buff the tops of your nails to remove a bit of the top layer. This will help the gel polish to adhere better.
Clean your nails:
Rinse your hands with water (no soap) and remove any dead skin. Ensure your nails are completely clean and dry. You can use a cuticle stick and acetone to clean up your cuticles and push back any dead skin from your nail plate.
Apply a base coat:
Apply a thin layer of a base coat to your dry nails. Work in smooth vertical strips and wipe off any base coat that gets on your surrounding skin. You can dry the base coat under an LED lamp for 1-2 minutes or let your nails air dry for about 10 minutes. Some gel nail polishes come with a specific primer; if your gel polish has a primer, use that instead of a base coat.
Apply gel nail polish:
Once your base layer has dried completely, apply your first layer of gel nail polish. It will likely look streaky, but that is normal for the first layer. Paint all the way to the tip of your nail and over the surface to prevent the gel from curling back off your nail. Cure the first layer of gel nail polish under a UV or LED lamp. Follow the curing instructions that came with your gel nail polish. Typically, you'll cure them under an LED lamp for 30 seconds or a UV lamp for 2 minutes. Curing allows the polish to harden uniformly. If you don't cure your nails under the lamp, the gel polish may dry unevenly. Remember, you must have a UV or LED lamp to cure the gel.
Seal with a top coat:
Seal your gel nail polish with a layer of clear top coat to protect the colour. You can also use a nail buffer to smooth and polish your nails after curing.
Remove and change colour:
To remove the gel nail polish, cut your cotton pads into four pieces, and soak each piece with acetone. Buff the top of each nail, then cover your nail with the cotton pad and apply a nail polish soak-off clip to hold it in place. Keep it there for about 15 minutes. Remove the clips and begin scraping off the gel polish with a steel cuticle remover and scraper.
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Removing gel nail polish
The first step is to use a nail file to buff off the shiny top layer of the polish. This breaks the gel seal so that acetone can be used to break down the cured paint. It is important to note that some gel polishes are very hard-wearing, and this step may take some time.
The next step is to apply cuticle oil to the skin surrounding the nail to prevent dehydration. Then, cut some cotton pads into small pieces and soak them in acetone. Place one soaked cotton pad on each nail and wrap the nail with plastic food wrap, which creates a tighter seal than foil and prevents dripping. Leave the plastic wrap on for about 10 minutes.
After removing the plastic wrap, most or all of the gel nail polish should be gone. Remove any remaining gel nail polish with a warm, wet washcloth, gently rubbing the nail. Wash your hands with a gentle, fragrance-free soap and water to remove the acetone. Finally, gently rub petroleum jelly into your cuticles and the skin around your nails for seven days to reduce any irritation caused by the acetone.
Alternatively, you can let your nails grow out and clip them once a week to remove the gel nail polish. This is a slow process, as it takes about six months for fingernails to grow out and 12 to 18 months for toenails.
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Frequently asked questions
It is recommended that you change your gel nails at least every three weeks.
Cut your cotton pads into four pieces and soak them in acetone. Buff the top of each nail and cover your nail with the cotton pad and nail polish soak-off clip. Keep it there for 15 minutes, then scrape off the gel polish with a steel cuticle remover.
Cut, file, and shape your nails. Clean up your cuticles with a cuticle stick and acetone. Push back any dead skin off of your nail plate.
Apply a thin base coat to your dry nails and cure it under a UV or LED lamp for 1-2 minutes. Then, apply 1-2 thin layers of gel nail polish, curing each layer under the lamp. Finish with a layer of clear top coat.
