Caleb Foster
Gel nail refills, also known as retouching, are a great way to maintain your manicure without fully removing the gel. This process involves removing the grown-out portion of your manicure, preparing your nails, and then filling in the new growth with a fresh manicure. It is recommended to get a refill every 3-4 weeks to maintain the balance of the nail structure and prevent issues such as cracks or loosening. The refill process allows for customization, as you can modify the shape, colour, and design according to your preferences. It is important to use the correct tools and products, such as builder gel, to ensure the health and strength of your natural nails. Proper nail care techniques, such as avoiding over-prepping and improper filing, are crucial to prevent damage and maintain the integrity of your nails.
How to do a gel nail refill
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to do it | After 3-4 weeks, when the extended nails show the first signs of yielding |
| What it is | Retouching or refill is a very long process that requires good knowledge of the processing steps and the necessary tools and products |
| How to do it | Remove 80-90% of the grown-out nail, prep your nails and fill in the grown-out part with a new manicure |
| What to use | A gel nail polish meant to be worn for extended periods of time and a builder gel to protect your natural nails |
| What not to use | A thin hybrid gel like shellac or opi |
| Benefits | Nails are stronger, can grow without breaking, and you can use all your favourite gel colours and regular polish colours |
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Prepping your nails
Step 1: Remove the Old Gel
Start by gently removing the old gel nail polish. If you are using a nail drill, be careful not to apply unnecessary pressure on the surface of your nails. You can also use an e-file to remove the previous gel manicure. This method has become a preferred choice by many as it is safer and less damaging to the natural nail compared to traditional nail drills.
Step 2: Eliminate Residual Gel
Once the majority of the gel polish is removed, use a fan nail art brush to dust off any remaining gel residue from your fingers and hands. Ensure that your nails are free from any dust or debris before moving on to the next step.
Step 3: Roughen the Nail Surface
To ensure a strong bond between the new gel application and your natural nail, gently roughen the surface of your nails using a stone nail file. This step helps create a slightly textured surface for the new gel to adhere to.
Step 4: Address Any Issues
Before applying the new gel, take this opportunity to check on the health of your natural nails. Remove enough of the old colour to clearly see your natural nails and address any issues, such as "greenies" (a build-up of bacteria due to moisture getting underneath your nails). If you notice any problems, consider giving your nails a break and letting them recover before proceeding with the gel refill.
Step 5: Cuticle Care
Although not mentioned in detail in the sources, cuticle care is an important step in nail preparation. Push back your cuticles gently and ensure your cuticles are neat and tidy. Well-maintained cuticles provide a clean slate for the new gel application and help prevent issues such as lifting or uneven nail surfaces.
Remember, proper nail preparation is key to achieving a seamless and long-lasting gel nail refill. Taking the time to prep your nails will not only enhance the final look but also help maintain the health and strength of your natural nails.
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Filing the nail
When filing the nail during a gel refill, it's important to be gentle and precise. The goal is to remove the old gel product and create a rough surface for the new gel to adhere to, without damaging the natural nail.
Begin filing at the cuticle area with a 100/180 grit file. Carefully file down the old product until it is no longer visible, focusing only on the gel surface. This process helps remove any lifted product and ensures the new gel will have a textured base to cling to. It is crucial to avoid filing the natural nail, as this can weaken the nail bed and cause damage. Take your time and use gentle, controlled movements to achieve the desired result.
Once the old gel is removed, use a nail cleaning brush or a fan nail art brush to dust off any residual filling and remove any dust created during the filing process. This step ensures that the nail surface is clean and ready for the next steps of the gel refill. A skilled nail technician will pay attention to this detail, ensuring that the nail and surrounding skin are free of debris.
After filing and dusting, the nail surface should be slightly roughened to prepare for the new gel application. This can be achieved by using a stone nail file to gently roughen the surface, creating a textured base for the new gel to adhere to. This step is crucial, as it helps the gel bond securely to the nail and ensures the longevity of the manicure.
The filing technique is an important aspect of the gel nail refill process. It requires precision and a gentle touch to effectively remove the old gel and prepare the nail surface for the new application. By taking the time to file correctly and thoroughly, you can achieve a smooth and long-lasting gel manicure.
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Applying the gel
Now, you are ready to apply the gel. If you have used a Builder Gel base, infill with Builder Gel. If you have used a Magic Extender Gel Base, infill with Magic Extender Gel. Fix 'N' Flash Tips can be infilled with either of the two. Apply a thin layer of your gel, starting at the apex of the nail and pushing the brush towards your cuticle. Then, float the gel over the whole nail plate and polish, creating a smooth finish. Apply a little more gel to the centre of your nail to build up the apex and add structure.
After applying the gel, cure your nails under a UV or LED lamp for the amount of time specified in the instructions on your gel bottle. This can be anywhere from 30 seconds to three minutes. When the first layer of gel is done curing, apply a second coat of gel and cure it. You can then apply a third coat of gel and cure it if you desire more strength and thickness. After curing the final coat, cleanse your nails with a disinfectant cleanser to remove the tacky layer, then wash your hands.
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Curing the gel
Before curing, ensure that you have applied the gel polish in thin layers to prevent lifting. Start by applying a thin base coat, avoiding the cuticle area, and then cure it under the lamp. Next, apply a thin coat of gel polish colour and cure it. If you desire a fuller colour, apply a second coat of colour and cure it under the lamp.
It is important to cure one nail at a time. Place your nails under the lamp, ensuring that the gel polish is exposed to the light. After curing each layer, you may need to cleanse your nails with a disinfectant cleanser to remove any sticky residue and create a smooth surface for the next layer.
The number of gel polish layers you apply depends on the desired strength and thickness of your manicure. After curing the final coat, you may apply a top coat for a glossy finish and cure it under the lamp. Finally, gently buff the top coat to remove the glossy finish and achieve the desired shine.
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Finishing touches
The final steps of your gel nail refill will depend on the type of manicure you are going for. If you are using a builder gel, you will need to build an apex on your nail. The apex is the stress area of your nail, so you will want to add more product towards the base of the nail, building up this area to give your nails extra strength and dimension. You can then add a new colour and top coat.
If you are using a regular gel manicure, your layers will be much thinner. You will want to stop filing once you get past the colour and hit the base. You can then add a new colour and top coat.
It is important to note that you should not buff your nails, as this can be too harsh. Instead, you just want to get rid of ridges to create an even surface. Blending the old product into the natural nail will ensure a seamless finish when applying the new base.
If you are changing colours, you will need to file off the old colour. You can do this by filing past the colour and into the builder layer, removing the previous apex. You can then smooth out any bumps with a sanding band or hand file.
Finally, remember that the products you use are very important. You should use a gel that is meant to stay on your nails for a long time, and a builder gel will add extra protection.
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Frequently asked questions
A gel nail refill is a way to maintain your manicure without fully removing the gel. You remove most of the colour, leaving some of the gel as a protective layer, before filling in the grown-out area with a new manicure.
It is recommended to get a gel nail refill every 3-4 weeks. This is to prevent the stress point and bead of the extended nail from being projected towards the tip of the nail, which can cause cracks and loosening.
First, remove the colour with a hand file or nail drill. Then, dust off your fingers and hands with a fan nail art brush. Next, roughen the nail surface with a stone nail file. Finally, apply a new extension, taking care to place the majority of the product towards the base of the nail.
You should use a gel that is designed to be worn for extended periods of time. It is also important to use builder gel to protect your natural nails.
