Caleb Foster
Dual forms are flexible, reusable plastic tools that help shape and form nail extensions using poly nail gel. They are beginner-friendly because they provide a pre-shaped curve that mimics the natural arc of the nail. There are two types of dual forms: flat and curved. Flat dual forms are ideal for those who prefer a subtle, natural look, while curved dual forms create a more dramatic, noticeable arch. To remove dual forms, you can use a pinching tool on the sides of the dual form, or gently lift it with your hand.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Removal technique | Use a thin tip to get underneath the form on the corner of the cuticle area to lift it off, then slowly and gently remove |
| Removal timing | Once the dual form is removed, place your hand back in the lamp for a full cure |
| Cleaning | Clean your dual forms with an alcohol-based solution after each use to maintain hygiene and extend their lifespan |
| Storage | Store the dual forms in their plastic bag after use to keep them ready for the next use |
| Application | Apply a generously thin layer of base gel with a designated brush on each nail and cure fully |
| Gel placement | Pump a bead of gel and drop it into the dual form, thinning it towards the cuticle and thickening it towards the middle |
| Fit | The form should cover the nail from sidewall to sidewall without applying pressure to the nail form |
| Fit (2) | The dual form should be slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent gel overflow and allow proper adhesion |
| Fit (3) | Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail as closely as possible for a comfortable fit and natural appearance |
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What You'll Learn
Removing dual form nails with a pinching tool
Removing dual-form nails with a pinching tool is a simple process. First, ensure that the gel is on the nail and has cured. You can do this by placing your finger under a lamp for 10 to 15 seconds. This will allow the gel to start setting, and your hand can be relaxed as the gel won't shift after this initial cure.
Next, remove your hand from the lamp and gently pinch the tip of the form, twisting it back and forth. You can also use a thin tip or a pinching tool to get underneath the form on the corner of the cuticle area to gently lift it off. Once the dual form is removed, place your hand back under the lamp for a full cure.
After the gel is set, take a cotton ball dipped in alcohol and wipe the nails on the top and bottom. Then, you can file, shape, and finish the nails as desired.
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Using an alternative thin tip to lift the form
When removing dual-form nails, you can use an alternative thin tip to lift the form. This method is useful if you are struggling to remove the dual form with your hands or a pinching tool.
First, clean your nails with soap and water, then use a cuticle pusher to push back your cuticles. Remove any dead skin from the nail plate with the other end of the cuticle pusher. Next, gently buff the surface of the nails with a sponge buffer to prepare them for gel application.
After applying the gel and allowing it to cure, you can use an alternative thin tip to gently lift the form from the corner of the cuticle area. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as the gel may not be fully cured and could still be soft. Once the form is lifted, slowly and gently remove it from the nail.
After removing the dual form, you can place your hand back under the lamp for a full cure. Finish by filing and shaping the nail as needed.
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Cleaning dual forms with an alcohol-based solution
After this, you can clean your nails with an alcohol-based solution. Firstly, ensure you are wearing gloves to prevent skin irritation. You can either purchase an alcohol-based cleaner or make your own. To make your own, pour one cup of isopropyl alcohol into a spray bottle, adding a cup of white vinegar to enhance its cleaning power. For a pleasant scent, add 10-15 drops of your preferred essential oil. Finally, top off the mixture with a cup of distilled water, shake the bottle, and your cleaner is ready.
You can then use a cotton ball dipped in the alcohol-based solution to wipe your nails. Alcohol is an effective cleaning agent due to its ability to tackle dirt, grime, and stains. It is also a disinfectant, killing germs and bacteria. However, it is important to note that alcohol-based cleaners should not be used on certain surfaces, such as porous materials like wood, marble, granite, or unsealed stone, as they may cause damage or discolouration.
After cleaning your nails with the alcohol-based solution, you can continue with the dual form application process. This involves applying a thin layer of base gel to your nails, curing the gel in an LED/UV lamp, and then gently removing the dual form with a pinching tool or your hands. Finally, you can file and shape your nails as desired.
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Selecting the appropriate size and shape of the dual form
Selecting the right size and shape of dual form is critical for a flawless application. Here are some tips to help you choose the appropriate dual form for your nail enhancements:
Size
When selecting a dual form, ensure it is slightly wider than your natural nail. This slight size difference prevents the nail product from overflowing and allows it to adhere properly without applying pressure to the nail form. It is important to note that the form should cover the nail from sidewall to sidewall without putting pressure on the nail form.
Curve Matching
Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail as closely as possible. This ensures a comfortable fit and a natural appearance. If you cannot find an exact match, opt for a slightly larger size and gently file the edges if necessary.
Nail Shape
The desired nail shape is also an important consideration when choosing a dual form. Common nail shapes include almond, coffin, ballerina, tapered square, square, and squoval (a softer square shape). The shape you choose will influence the positioning of the apex, which is the highest point of the nail enhancement and indicates the stress point. The longer the nail enhancement, the further back towards the cuticle the apex should be placed, but be careful not to create an unsightly hump that weakens the structure.
Nail Product Amount
When using a nail product like gel or acrylic, apply a pea-sized amount for each nail, adjusting the amount based on the length and style you desire. Ensure there is enough product inside the dual form to avoid the need for extensive filing after application.
Practice and Experimentation
For beginners, it is beneficial to practice and experiment with different dual forms to identify the best fit for your needs. Both flat and curved dual forms offer unique advantages, and choosing between them depends on the intended look and your personal nail preferences. For professional nail technicians, having a variety of dual form sizes and shapes ensures versatility in meeting client requests.
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Using dual forms with builder gel
Builder gel is a type of gel nail product used to extend the length of natural nails. It is available in a range of colours and can be applied with a brush or spatula. It is usually cured under a UV or LED lamp and provides a long-lasting, durable finish.
Dual forms are thin plastic or paper templates that help shape and form the nail. They are usually used with polygel, but builder gels can also be used. The point of dual forms is to avoid having to do a lot of shaping and filing at the top of the nails, and they will be perfectly structured.
To use dual forms with builder gel, start by cleaning your nails with soap and water. Use a cuticle pusher to push back your cuticles. Remove any dead skin from the nail plate with a gentle hand file. Next, use an alcohol solution to gently go around the cuticle area, pushing back the eponychium to ensure nothing is dragging or attracting the gel to the nail.
Apply a generously thin layer of base gel to each nail and full cure. Pump a bead of gel and drop it into the dual form, thinning it towards the cuticle and making it thicker towards the middle. Once you have the gel on the dual form, place it on the nail, ensuring it covers the nail from every angle and that the nail form is straight.
After preparing the dual form, gently apply it to 2/3 of the nail, avoiding the cuticle area. Cure in an LED/UV lamp for 60-120 seconds, depending on the manufacturer's instructions. You can then gently pinch the sides of the dual form to remove it.
After removing the dual form, take a bead of hard gel and apply it to the nail, lightly pillowing the bead close to the cuticle area without touching it. Bring it down to the tip and cure the nails in the lamp again. After the gel is set, wipe the nails with a cotton ball dipped in alcohol and shape and finish the nails as desired.
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Frequently asked questions
You can use a pinching tool or your hands to gently pinch the sides of the dual form and lift it off.
You can use your hands to gently pinch the sides of the dual form and lift it off.
After removing the dual form, take a bead of hard gel and apply it to the nail. Lightly pillow the bead as close to the cuticle area without touching it. Then, bring it down to the tip and cure the nails in an LED/UV lamp again.
To avoid damaging your natural nails, ensure your cuticles are pushed back before applying the dual form. When removing the dual form, be gentle and avoid pulling or tugging at your natural nails.
