
Nailing cedar siding is a crucial step in ensuring a durable, weather-resistant, and aesthetically pleasing exterior for your home. Proper installation requires careful planning, the right tools, and attention to detail. Begin by selecting high-quality cedar siding and ensuring it is acclimated to the local climate to minimize warping or splitting. Use corrosion-resistant nails, such as stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized, to secure the siding, and space them evenly, typically every 16 to 24 inches along studs. Maintain a consistent reveal by aligning the siding boards with a chalk line or level, and leave a small gap between boards to allow for natural expansion and contraction. Properly sealing the ends and edges of the cedar with a preservative will further protect against moisture and decay, ensuring your cedar siding remains both functional and beautiful for years to come.
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What You'll Learn
- Prepare Cedar Siding: Clean, sand, and treat wood for durability and appearance before installation
- Measure and Cut: Accurately measure and cut cedar planks to fit desired siding layout
- Install Starter Strip: Secure a starter strip along the bottom for even siding alignment
- Nail Siding Properly: Use stainless steel nails, spaced evenly, to avoid splitting the cedar
- Finish and Seal: Apply stain or sealant to protect cedar from weather and UV damage

Prepare Cedar Siding: Clean, sand, and treat wood for durability and appearance before installation
Cedar siding, with its natural beauty and durability, is a popular choice for homeowners. However, its longevity and appearance depend heavily on proper preparation before installation. Cleaning, sanding, and treating the wood are essential steps that ensure the siding not only looks stunning but also withstands the test of time. Skipping these steps can lead to premature weathering, warping, or even rot, undermining the investment in this premium material.
Cleaning the cedar is the first critical step. Over time, cedar can accumulate dirt, mildew, or stains, especially if it’s been stored outdoors. Use a mild detergent mixed with water and a soft-bristle brush to gently scrub the surface. For stubborn stains or mildew, a solution of one part bleach to three parts water can be effective, but rinse thoroughly afterward to avoid discoloration. Avoid pressure washing, as it can damage the wood fibers. Once cleaned, allow the cedar to dry completely—at least 48 hours in a well-ventilated area—to prevent moisture from being trapped beneath finishes or during installation.
Sanding cedar siding requires a delicate touch. The goal is to smooth the surface and open the wood pores for better treatment absorption, not to alter its natural texture. Start with 80-grit sandpaper to remove rough spots or mill marks, then finish with 120-grit for a uniform surface. Always sand in the direction of the grain to avoid scratches. For intricate profiles or grooves, use a sanding sponge or block to maintain consistency. Over-sanding can thin the wood, compromising its structural integrity, so proceed with care.
Treating cedar siding is where durability meets aesthetics. A high-quality wood preservative or stain is essential to protect against UV rays, moisture, and insects. Choose a product specifically formulated for cedar, such as a semi-transparent stain that enhances the wood’s natural grain while providing protection. Apply the treatment with a brush or sprayer, ensuring even coverage on all sides, including edges and ends, which are most vulnerable to moisture. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application rates—typically 100–150 square feet per gallon—and drying times, usually 24–48 hours before installation.
The final result of proper preparation is cedar siding that not only looks exceptional but also performs exceptionally. Cleaned, sanded, and treated wood resists warping, fading, and decay, maintaining its beauty for decades. This upfront effort pays dividends in reduced maintenance and replacement costs over time. By investing in these preparatory steps, homeowners ensure their cedar siding remains a striking and durable feature of their exterior.
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Measure and Cut: Accurately measure and cut cedar planks to fit desired siding layout
Accurate measurement and cutting are the backbone of a seamless cedar siding installation. Even the highest-quality cedar will look amateurish if the planks don’t align properly. Start by mapping out your siding layout, accounting for corners, windows, and doors. Use a chalk line to mark straight lines along the wall, ensuring each plank will sit level and plumb. Measure twice before making any cuts—cedar’s natural beauty deserves precision, not guesswork.
To cut cedar planks, a sharp carbide-tipped blade on a circular saw or table saw is ideal. Cedar’s softness can cause splintering if the blade is dull, so inspect it before beginning. For intricate cuts around windows or trim, a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade provides better control. Always cut with the finished side of the plank facing down to minimize tear-out. When measuring, account for the siding’s exposure (the visible portion of the plank) and the overlap needed to shed water effectively—typically 1 to 1.5 inches.
While measuring, consider the natural expansion and contraction of cedar due to moisture changes. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between planks to allow for this movement, preventing buckling or warping over time. For longer runs, stagger joints by at least 12 inches to avoid creating a “path” for water infiltration. Use a speed square to ensure cuts are perfectly perpendicular, especially for corner pieces, which require precise 45-degree angles for a clean, professional look.
A practical tip for efficiency: batch-cut planks of the same length together. For example, if multiple planks need to be 6 feet long, measure and mark them all before cutting. This minimizes setup time and ensures consistency. Label each piece with its intended location to avoid confusion during installation. Remember, cedar’s natural grain can vary, so select planks with similar patterns for adjacent areas to maintain visual harmony.
Finally, always prioritize safety. Wear eye protection, ear protection, and a dust mask when cutting cedar, as its fine dust can irritate lungs and eyes. Secure planks firmly before cutting to prevent kickback or slipping. By taking the time to measure and cut accurately, you’ll not only save material but also achieve a siding installation that enhances your home’s aesthetic and durability for years to come.
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Install Starter Strip: Secure a starter strip along the bottom for even siding alignment
A starter strip is the unsung hero of cedar siding installation, providing a stable foundation that ensures each board aligns perfectly. Without it, your siding risks an uneven, amateurish appearance that can detract from the natural beauty of the wood. Typically made of the same cedar material as the siding, this strip acts as a guide for the first course, setting the tone for the entire project. Its importance cannot be overstated—it’s the difference between a professional finish and a DIY disaster.
Installing the starter strip begins with precision measurement and cutting. Use a level to ensure the bottom edge of the strip is perfectly horizontal, as any deviation will compound as you stack siding boards. Secure the strip to the sheathing with corrosion-resistant nails, spaced approximately every 16 inches. For added durability, consider using stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails, especially in humid climates where cedar is prone to moisture absorption. A properly installed starter strip should sit flush against the wall, with no gaps or wobble, creating a seamless base for the siding to follow.
One common mistake is neglecting to account for expansion and contraction of the cedar. Wood is a living material that responds to temperature and humidity changes, so leave a ¼-inch gap between the starter strip and any adjacent structures, such as the ground or a foundation. This allows the wood to breathe and prevents warping or buckling over time. Additionally, ensure the strip is installed at least 6 inches above grade to protect against water damage and rot, a critical consideration for longevity.
While the process seems straightforward, the devil is in the details. For instance, pre-drilling nail holes can prevent splitting, particularly in colder or drier wood. If using a pneumatic nail gun, adjust the pressure to avoid overdriving nails, which can compromise the strip’s integrity. A subtle but effective technique is to scribe the strip to match uneven walls, ensuring a tight fit even on imperfect surfaces. This level of attention to detail separates a good installation from a great one.
In conclusion, the starter strip is more than just a preliminary step—it’s the backbone of your cedar siding project. By prioritizing accuracy, using the right materials, and anticipating wood behavior, you lay the groundwork for a stunning and durable exterior. Skimp on this stage, and you’ll pay the price in misaligned boards and premature wear. Invest time here, and your siding will not only look impeccable but also stand the test of time.
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Nail Siding Properly: Use stainless steel nails, spaced evenly, to avoid splitting the cedar
Cedar siding, with its natural beauty and durability, demands precision in installation. One critical aspect often overlooked is the choice and placement of nails. Stainless steel nails are the unsung heroes here, offering superior corrosion resistance compared to galvanized or common nails. Cedar’s natural oils can accelerate rust in lesser metals, leading to unsightly stains and structural compromise over time. By opting for stainless steel, you ensure longevity without sacrificing aesthetics.
Spacing nails evenly is equally vital to prevent splitting, a common issue with cedar’s soft grain. A general rule of thumb is to place nails every 16 to 24 inches along the length of the board, depending on local building codes and wind loads. For vertical siding, aim for two nails per board at each stud, positioned ¾ inch from the top and bottom edges. This distribution minimizes stress on the wood fibers, reducing the risk of cracks as the cedar expands and contracts with seasonal changes.
Consider the nail size as well—too long, and it may pierce through the siding into the sheathing; too short, and it won’t secure the board adequately. For most cedar siding applications, 1½-inch to 2-inch nails are ideal. Use a nail gun with depth adjustment to ensure consistency, but hand-nailing can offer better control in delicate areas. Always pre-drill holes if the cedar is particularly dense or if you’re working in extreme temperatures, as this further reduces splitting.
A persuasive argument for precision lies in the long-term savings. Properly nailed cedar siding can last 30 years or more with minimal maintenance. Conversely, shortcuts like uneven spacing or inferior nails can lead to costly repairs within a decade. Investing time and quality materials upfront pays dividends in both appearance and structural integrity. Think of it as crafting a legacy, not just installing siding.
Finally, observe the rhythm of your work—nail placement should mirror the natural flow of the cedar’s grain. Avoid forcing nails near knots or imperfections, as these areas are prone to splitting. Step back periodically to ensure the siding lies flat and even, adjusting as needed. With stainless steel nails, careful spacing, and attention to detail, your cedar siding will not only endure but also age gracefully, enhancing the character of your home.
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Finish and Seal: Apply stain or sealant to protect cedar from weather and UV damage
Cedar siding, with its natural beauty and durability, is a popular choice for homeowners. However, left unprotected, it’s vulnerable to the elements. Sunlight fades its rich color, moisture warps and cracks the wood, and temperature fluctuations accelerate decay. Applying a finish or sealant is the critical final step in preserving cedar’s integrity and appearance, acting as a shield against weather and UV damage.
The Science Behind the Seal:
Sealants and stains work by penetrating the wood’s cellular structure, creating a barrier that repels water and blocks UV rays. Oil-based finishes, like cedar-tone or semi-transparent stains, enhance the wood’s natural grain while providing deep protection. Water-based options offer lower VOCs and easier cleanup but may require more frequent reapplication. For maximum durability, choose a product with UV inhibitors and mildew resistance, especially in humid climates.
Application Techniques for Lasting Results:
Begin by cleaning the cedar surface with a mild detergent and water solution, removing dirt, mildew, or debris. Allow the wood to dry completely—at least 48 hours—before application. Use a brush, roller, or airless sprayer, applying the finish in thin, even coats. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for drying time between coats (typically 2–4 hours). Two coats are standard, but three may be necessary for high-exposure areas like south-facing walls.
Timing and Maintenance: A Long-Term Investment:
Apply the finish during dry, mild weather (50–85°F) to ensure proper curing. Avoid extreme heat or direct sunlight, which can cause uneven drying. Reapply the sealant every 3–5 years, or when water no longer beads on the surface. Regular inspections for cracks, peeling, or discoloration will catch issues early, extending the siding’s lifespan.
The Payoff: Beauty and Resilience:
A well-sealed cedar exterior not only retains its vibrant hue but also resists rot, insect damage, and structural degradation. Think of the finish as sunscreen for your home—an essential layer that preserves both aesthetics and function. With the right product and care, your cedar siding will age gracefully, maintaining its charm for decades.
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Frequently asked questions
Essential tools include a pneumatic nail gun (preferably a siding nailer), galvanized or stainless steel siding nails (1.5 to 2 inches long), a hammer, a tape measure, a level, a chalk line, and safety gear like gloves and eye protection.
Nails should be placed every 16 to 24 inches along the length of the siding boards and within 1 inch of each end to ensure proper securing. Follow manufacturer guidelines for specific spacing recommendations.
Yes, use galvanized or stainless steel nails to prevent rust and corrosion, especially in humid or coastal environments. Ring-shank nails are recommended for better grip and holding power.
Use a chalk line to mark straight lines along the wall as a guide. Regularly check with a level to ensure each board is plumb and aligned. Adjust as needed before nailing into place.











































