Isla Bennett
Blacksmithing is an ancient craft that has been around for centuries. One of the most fundamental tools in a blacksmith's arsenal is the nail header, which is used to make nails. While it may seem like a simple tool, creating an effective nail header requires precision and practice. The process begins with selecting the right material, typically low-carbon steel, and shaping it into a domed form. The sharpness of the top edge and the size of the hole in the header are crucial to its functionality. With the right technique and heat treatment, a blacksmith can forge a nail header that not only creates nails but also tells a story of historical accuracy and craftsmanship.
Characteristics and Values of a Blacksmith Nail Header
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Material | Low carbon steel, hot or cold rolled mild steel, or wrought iron |
| Shape | Square tapered hole in a domed forged with the taper larger at the bottom and a sharp top edge |
| Hole Size | 1/8”x3/16”, 3/16” square hole, or 1/4” for heavy nails |
| Stock Size | 1/4" for headers with 1/8”x3/16” hole size; 5/16” or 3/8” for headers with 1/4” hole size |
| Body | Mild steel |
| Dome | Hardened and tempered high-carbon steel |
| Handle | Welded onto the tool using a leaf spring or forged on |
| Finishing | Grinding or sanding to smooth the surface |
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What You'll Learn
- Start with a round or square rod, ideally low-carbon steel
- Heat the steel and draw out the nail shank, working on two sides at right angles
- Cut most of the way through the stock rod, leaving enough material for the head
- Place the shank into the nail header, twist and break off the stock rod
- Forge the nail head
Start with a round or square rod, ideally low-carbon steel
To make nails, start with a round or square rod, ideally low-carbon steel, in a size from 3/16 up to 5/16 in diameter or square. You can also use hot or cold rolled mild steel, which has about 0.1% carbon, with the rest made up of iron and perhaps a trace of silicon or manganese. Nails for masonry applications are tempered and have a higher carbon content.
You can salvage a wrought iron bar from a 19th-century gate, for example, and cut it to size using a hot cut or hardy. Then, hammer it out flat. You can also use a leaf spring, which is likely made of 5160 steel.
Next, use the edge of the anvil and precise hammer strikes to define the head of the tool and start to draw out the handle. The header will require steel on the face, as iron alone will not withstand repeated use. Cut the steel to fit the face of the header, ensuring there is no overhang, or the steel will overheat and crumble. You can use scrap steel from old files or wagon springs.
Finally, put in the taper hole and dress the tool. You can do this by grinding a domed surface on the end of the tool with a belt sander or angle grinder, or you can forge it by hand.
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Heat the steel and draw out the nail shank, working on two sides at right angles
To make nails, you need to start with a round or square rod, usually with a diameter of 3/16 to 5/16. The ideal material would be very low-carbon steel, but you can also use hot or cold-rolled mild steel. Once you have your steel rod, heat it up in a forge and then use a hot cut chisel or a hardy anvil tool to cut it to the desired length.
Now comes the important part: heating the steel and drawing out the nail shank. Using a pair of tongs, hold the heated steel rod and place it on your anvil or work surface. Using your hammer, start forging the steel, working on two sides at right angles to each other. This means you will be hammering the steel from two perpendicular directions to create a tapered shape. Keep turning and hammering the steel until you have drawn out the nail shank to the desired length and thickness.
It is important to maintain the right temperature for the steel while drawing out the nail shank. If the steel is too cold, it will be difficult to work with, and if it is too hot, it may crumble or lose its shape. Adjust your forge or heat source as needed to maintain a bright orange or yellow heat, which is the ideal temperature for forging.
Once you are satisfied with the length and thickness of the nail shank, you can move on to the next step. Using a hot cut hardie, cut most of the way through the stock rod, leaving just enough material to form the head of the nail. Now, place the shank of the nail into your nail header. With a quick twist, break off the stock rod, and you will be left with a single nail ready for the final step.
Forging the head of the nail is the final step in this process. Reheat the nail if necessary, and then place it back into the nail header. Using your hammer, deliver a central upsetting blow to form the basic shape of the head. Follow this with four quick blows to forge the facets and create a neat, finished look for the nail head. And that's it! You have now created a functional nail with your very own blacksmith nail header.
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Cut most of the way through the stock rod, leaving enough material for the head
To make a blacksmith nail header, you'll need to start with a nail header tool. You can either make your own or purchase one from a blacksmith supply store. If you're making your own, it's recommended to use a bar of salvaged wrought iron, cut to the appropriate size, and heated in a forge. You'll also need a hot cut (chisel) or a hardy (anvil tool) for cutting the iron.
Once you have your materials and tools, you can begin the process of creating the nail header. Heat the stock rod and then extend a short portion on the anvil, drawing out a taper. This will be the shank of the nail. Work the iron back and forth between two faces to achieve the desired length, typically around three times the length of the anvil.
Now, use your hot cut hardie to cut most of the way through the stock rod, leaving just enough material for the head. This step is crucial, as leaving too much material will cause the head to fold instead of upsetting when you forge it. Cut just above the shoulder of the taper, as this will allow the shoulder to catch on the header, making the next steps easier.
With the stock rod prepared, you can now place the shank of the nail into your nail header and break off the excess rod with a twist. From here, you can begin forging the head of the nail. This process can be done with a central upsetting blow, followed by several quick blows to forge the facets of the nail head.
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Place the shank into the nail header, twist and break off the stock rod
To make nails, you can start with a round or square rod, usually in a size from 3/16 up to 5/16 in either diameter or square. The ideal material would be very low carbon steel, but good nails can also be made from either hot or cold rolled mild steel. Begin by heating the steel and then drawing out the shank of the nail, working on two sides at right angles to each other. Then, using a hot cut hardie, cut most of the way through the stock rod, leaving just enough material for the head.
Now, placing the shank of the nail into the nail header, you will break off the stock rod with a twist. This is done by placing the shank of the nail into the nail header and then twisting and breaking off the stock rod. This step may require some force, as the stock rod needs to be separated from the nail shank. It is important to ensure that the nail header is properly secured and stable during this step to avoid any accidents or injuries.
After breaking off the stock rod, you will be left with the nail shank in the nail header. At this point, you can begin the process of forging the head on the nail. This involves heating the nail shank and using a hammer to shape the head. It is important to work quickly during this step, as the nail will start to cool down once it is removed from the heat source. With practice, you may be able to complete this step in one heat, but it is more common to use two heats: one to form the shank and cut through the stock rod, and a second heat to forge the head.
There are several variations on this basic method, such as the Peter Ross and Jerry Darnell approaches. The Peter Ross method involves setting off the head area at the start of nail-making, using a half-on-half-off blow to set down the stock from two sides of the nail stock. The Jerry Darnell method focuses on high hammer control, with quick and precise strikes to shape the nail head.
Additionally, it is important to consider the shape of the nail header to prevent the nail from sticking inside the hole. A sharp top edge on the nail header can cause the metal to be forged downward, locking the nail in place. To avoid this, the sharp edge can be carefully filed or dressed to remove it, or you can punch through from the bottom side.
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Forge the nail head
To forge the nail head, you will need a nail header. You can purchase one or make your own. If you want to make your own, you can start with a bar of salvaged wrought iron. The bar should be around 3/4" square and cut to roughly 6" long. Heat the bar in a forge and use either a hot cut (a chisel for hot metal) or a hardy (an anvil tool that fits in the square hardy hole with a chisel edge). Flatten the bar with a hammer to around 1/2"x1".
Next, use the edge of the anvil and precise hammer strikes to define the head of the tool, and then start to draw out the handle. The header will need a steel face, as iron alone will not withstand repeated use. Cut the steel to fit the face of the header, ensuring there is no overhang, or the steel will overheat and crumble when you weld. You can use scrap steel from old files or wagon springs.
Now, put a taper hole in the header and dress the tool. You can weld a handle onto a smaller piece of leaf spring and then dish the tool in a swage block. Alternatively, you can forge the tool on or use a belt sander or angle grinder. You can also add a dome to the working end of the nail header with a power hammer. Flux the steel and set it aside to cool. You can use fine sand as flux, bringing the iron to an orange heat slowly and then quickly fluxing and bringing the steel to a welding heat. Repeat the weld a few times to seal any gaps, then punch the hole in the header from the back and finish it from the top. Clean up the edges of the handle and make it comfortable to grip, adding a hook or loop on the end. Bring the header back up to temperature and quench to harden.
Once the nail header is made, you can pass a few nails through it and break it in before starting production. It is recommended to radius the nail header to reduce the possibility of the nail sticking inside the hole.
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Frequently asked questions
A nail header is a tool used to make nails.
You will need a bar of salvaged wrought iron, a chisel, an anvil, and steel.
First, cut a bar of salvaged wrought iron to the desired length. Heat the bar in a forge and cut it with a hot chisel. Hammer the bar flat and use precise hammer strikes to define the head of the tool. Draw out the handle and add steel to the face to prevent crumbling.
The recommended hole size depends on the size of the nails you want to make. For very small nails, use a 1/8” hole size. For average-sized nails, use a 3/16” square hole. For heavy nails between 4” and 6” long, use a 1/4” hole size.
