Liam Carter
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for those who want strong, long-lasting manicures. However, as the nails grow out, an infill is needed to maintain the manicure. While some professionals opt to soak off and reapply gel polish, infills are a cheaper and quicker alternative. The process involves filing the nails to achieve a smooth transition from the natural nail to the gel with a curved 'C' shape. Cuticles are then pushed back and any dead skin is removed. The nails are cleaned with acetone and soap, and then it's time for the infill. Depending on the gel system, a base gel and/or builder gel is applied, starting at the cuticle and dragging it up to the nail tip. The gel is then cured and cleaned, and a top coat is applied for a glossy finish.
How to infill gel nail polish
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Filing | Use a soft file to create a seamless transition from the natural nail to the gel with a curved 'C shape'. |
| Shortening | Shorten nails to maintain length. |
| Cuticle work | Push back cuticles and remove dead skin with a cuticle pusher to prevent future lifting. |
| Cleaning | Clean nails with acetone and a cotton pad, then rinse with soap and water. Use acetone again to remove any oils. |
| Dehydrating | Apply a dehydrator to the natural part of the nail to aid bonding. |
| Priming | Apply a primer to the natural nail. |
| Base gel | Apply a base gel, then a builder gel. |
| Builder gel | Place the builder gel carefully on the nail, starting at the cuticle and dragging it to the tip. |
| Curing | Cure the nails. |
| Topcoat | Apply a gel topcoat. |
| Refilling | Refill every 2-3 weeks. |
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What You'll Learn
Filing nails to achieve a smooth transition from natural nail to gel
Filing your nails is an important step in achieving a smooth transition from natural nail to gel. It is crucial to use the correct technique to avoid damaging your nails or the gel manicure.
Firstly, select an appropriate nail file for the task. Some sources recommend using an emery board file, while others suggest a crystal file or a board hand file. It is also important to consider the grit of the file; for reshaping a square nail into an almond or oval shape, a medium grit file (150, 180, or 240 grit) is recommended.
When filing, it is best to start by gently rounding the file in one direction, rather than moving it back and forth, to avoid damaging the connection between the nail and the nail plate. If you are reshaping your nails, place the file under the nail instead of on top to avoid filing off the top coat. File from the side of the nail towards the center to maintain its strength, and be careful not to over-file, as this can weaken the nail. Aim to create a curved 'C shape' for a seamless transition from the natural nail to the gel.
If you are filing your nails to prepare for a gel manicure, it is essential to prepare your nails properly. Push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher and remove any dead skin to prevent future lifting. Clean your nails with acetone on a cotton pad, then rinse with soap and water, scrubbing gently with a brush to remove any remaining dirt or dust. Finish by wiping your nails with acetone once more to remove any excess oils.
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Pushing back cuticles and removing dead skin
To begin, use a cuticle pusher to firmly push back the cuticles. This tool is designed to safely separate the cuticle from the nail plate, creating a clean and defined nail bed. After pushing back the cuticles, use the cuticle pusher to gently scrape away any dead skin or debris from the nails. Be careful not to be too aggressive, as the skin in this area is delicate.
It is recommended to apply a cuticle oil or petroleum jelly, such as Vaseline, to the cuticles and surrounding skin before and after this process. This helps to protect and nourish the skin, as it can be drying and damaging due to the use of acetone during gel nail removal. Cuticle oils can include products like apricot cuticle oil or simple alternatives like Vaseline, which acts as a barrier to minimise the damaging effects of acetone.
After pushing back the cuticles and removing dead skin, it is important to clean the nails. This can be done by soaking a cotton pad in acetone and gently rubbing it over the nails. Follow this by rinsing the nails with soap and water, and then using a brush to lightly scrub them. Finally, go over the nails one last time with an acetone-soaked cotton pad to remove any remaining oils or residue.
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Cleaning nails with acetone and soap
Cleaning your nails with acetone and soap is an important step in the gel infill process. It ensures that your nails are free of dust, dirt, and oils, creating a clean base for the gel application. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to effectively clean your nails with acetone and soap:
Step 1: Prepare the Acetone and Cotton Pads
Start by soaking a few cotton pads in acetone. You want them to be thoroughly soaked but not dripping. Cut the cotton pads into sizes that fit your nails. This helps control the amount of acetone applied to each nail and reduces the risk of acetone coming into contact with your skin.
Step 2: Protect Your Skin
Acetone can be irritating to the skin, so it is important to take precautions. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to your cuticles and the skin surrounding your nails. This creates a protective barrier and helps lock in moisture, reducing the potential for skin irritation.
Step 3: Apply Acetone to Nails
Place the acetone-soaked cotton pads on your nails, ensuring they cover the entire nail surface. For your first application, you can leave the cotton pads on for a few minutes, which will help soften and dissolve any gel polish or residue.
Step 4: Use Plastic Wrap (Optional)
If you are removing gel nail polish, you can use plastic food wrap to create a tighter seal and prevent acetone from dripping. Leave the plastic wrap on for around 10 minutes. Most of the gel polish should come off with the plastic wrap.
Step 5: Remove Remaining Polish
After removing the cotton pads or plastic wrap, there may be some residual gel polish. Use a washcloth soaked in warm water to gently rub off any remaining polish. Be careful to only rub the nail surface and avoid the surrounding skin.
Step 6: Wash Hands with Soap and Water
Once the majority of the polish is removed, wash your hands with gentle soap and water to remove any remaining acetone. Use a mild, fragrance-free soap to avoid skin irritation. This step also ensures that your hands are clean and ready for the gel infill process.
Step 7: Final Wipe with Acetone
As a last step, take a fresh acetone-soaked cotton pad and give your nails a final wipe to remove any remaining residue or oils. This ensures that your nails are completely clean and ready for the gel application.
Remember, while acetone is great for removing nail polish and cleaning your nails, it should not be used as a nail cleaner after the gel infill, as it can dissolve the gel and cause stickiness. Instead, use rubbing alcohol or even vodka for cleaning the sticky inhibition layer on gel nails.
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Applying a base coat and builder gel
Firstly, prepare your nails by gently shaping and filing them to the desired length and form. It is recommended to create a smooth transition from the natural nail to the gel, forming a curved 'C shape'. This step ensures a seamless blend and helps prevent lifting.
Next, push back your cuticles using a cuticle pusher and remove any dead skin or dirt from the nails. This step is crucial in preventing future lifting and ensuring a neat application. Clean your nails with acetone on a cotton pad, followed by soap and water, and then finish with another swipe of acetone to remove any remaining oils.
Now, it's time to apply the base coat. Depending on the gel system you are using, you may need to apply a dehydrator and primer first to aid the bonding process. Apply a thin layer of your chosen base coat to your natural nails, covering the entire nail, including the growth gap. Ensure the base coat is evenly distributed and allowed to dry or cure properly.
After the base coat, you will apply the builder gel. Builder gel is a thicker formula designed to add length, thickness, and strength to your nails. It can be applied directly to the natural nail or used with nail tips for extensions. Apply the builder gel in small, horizontal strokes, starting at the cuticle area and dragging it up to the tip of the nail. Focus on building up the apex of your nail, which is the highest point on your nail bed. You can add multiple layers of builder gel, curing between each layer, to achieve your desired thickness and shape.
Finally, cure your nails under the appropriate LED or UV nail lamp, following the instructions provided by your chosen gel brand. The curing process will set the gel and ensure your manicure lasts for several weeks.
By carefully following these steps and allowing adequate time for curing, you can achieve a professional-looking gel manicure with lasting results.
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Finishing with a gel top coat
Once your nails are prepped and filled, it's time to finish with a gel top coat. This will give your nails a glossy and smooth look. Start by curing and cleaning your nails. If you've applied a builder gel, you can create an apex by painting a slip layer and adding a bead of polish on top. You don't need to cure the slip layer. Then, use your brush to get the apex into place.
The type of builder gel you use will determine whether you need a separate base coat. For example, the Kokoist x Nail Thoughts Builder base gel is a 3-in-1 product that serves as a base coat, builder gel, and colour all in one. However, if you're not using this specific brand, refer to the manufacturer's instructions to see if you need a separate base coat.
After applying the base coat, carefully place the gel on your nail, starting at the cuticle area. Drag the gel up to the tip of your nail. Once the entire nail is covered, apply more gel to the middle of your nail and let it float, creating a nice curve and enhancing the structure. Repeat this process for all your nails. Keep in mind that you might need to do your thumb separately, as it may not fit in your LED lamp.
Finally, apply a gel top coat to finish off your manicure. Some gels don't require a top coat, so follow the routine that works best for you. With the right products and techniques, you can achieve beautiful gel nails that will last up to 4-6 weeks.
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Frequently asked questions
The process of infilling gel nail polish involves first filing your nails to achieve a smooth transition from the natural nail to gel. Then, use a cuticle pusher to push back the cuticles and scrape away any dead skin from the nails. Wipe away any dirt and dust with acetone and a cotton pad, and then rinse with soap and water. Apply a dehydrator and primer to the natural part of your nail to help the gel bond. Apply a base gel and then a builder gel, starting at the cuticle and dragging it up to the tip of the nail. Finish with a gel top coat.
Infilling gel nail polish is a way to fill in the grown-out area of your nails with new product to create a new manicure, without having to fully remove and re-apply gel nail polish. This process can help to strengthen nails and allow them to grow without breaking.
Infilling gel nail polish can save time compared to fully removing and re-applying gel nail polish. It can also help to strengthen nails and allow them to grow without breaking. Additionally, infilling can be a more cost-effective option than fully removing and re-applying gel nail polish.
