Isla Bennett
Filing your gel nails at home is a great way to save money and time, but it's important to do it correctly to avoid damaging your nails. The process of filing gel nails involves a few key steps: choosing the right file, preparing your file and nails, and filing in the correct direction. It's also important to be gentle and patient, as filing too aggressively can weaken your nails. Additionally, it's crucial to clean your nail file to prevent the spread of bacteria. When removing gel nails, it's recommended to use a medium-grit file, such as a 100/180 nail file, to avoid damaging the natural nail. You can also use acetone to help remove the gel polish, but be sure to wash your hands afterward to remove any residue. With the right tools and techniques, you can safely and effectively file your gel nails at home.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right nail file
Firstly, let's talk about the shape of the nail file. Nail files come in various shapes, including straight, banana-shaped, boat-shaped, and block-shaped. Straight files are great for everyday use and can be used to shape nails into almost any form. Banana-shaped files, with their gentle curves, are perfect for comfortably shaping your nails and reaching the tricky areas at the side of the nail without damaging the skin. Boat-shaped files, on the other hand, offer the best of both worlds by incorporating both curved and straight edges, making them versatile and suitable for gel polish and acrylic nails. Block-shaped files provide multiple filing surfaces, often with fine-grained surfaces ideal for buffing the nail surface.
The material of the nail file is also important. Glass files are often recommended because they are gentle on the nails and easier to clean. Classic emery boards are another option but may not be as durable or hygienic as glass files.
Lastly, let's discuss grit gradation. Nail file gradation refers to the varying levels of coarseness or grit on a nail file, which affects how it shapes and smooths your nails. Coarse files (60-100 grit) are ideal for filing down thick or hard nails and removing significant length, but they should be used carefully to avoid damaging the nail. Medium files (100-180 grit) are versatile and perfect for general shaping and smoothing, making them suitable for both manicures and pedicures. Fine files (400 grit and above) are best for buffing the nail plate and refining the shape without causing damage to natural nails.
When filing gel nails, it is recommended to start with a coarse or medium file to shape and shorten the nails, and then transition to a fine file to smooth the surface and prepare the nails for polish. It is also important to note that you should always file in one direction, sweeping from the side of the nail to the centre, rather than using a back-and-forth sawing motion, as this can lead to breakage and damage to the nail bed.
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Preparing the nail file
- Select the appropriate nail file: Choose a new file specifically designed for gel nails. Look for a file with a grit ranging from 80 to 180. The higher the grit number, the finer the file, which is gentler on your nails. Glass files are recommended as they are gentle, effective, and easier to clean.
- Remove sharp edges: New nail files often have sharp sides and edges that can accidentally cut your cuticles or sidewalls. To prevent this, use another nail file to gently file away and smooth out the edges of your chosen file. This step is crucial to ensuring the safety of your nails and surrounding skin.
- Understand file types and their uses: Familiarize yourself with the different types of nail files and their purposes. For example, a 100/180 grit file has one coarse side and one softer side. The coarser side is ideal for reducing nail length and taking down the surface, while the softer side is perfect for shaping the natural nail. Understanding these differences will help you use the right side of the file for your specific needs.
- Clean your nail file: Before using your nail file, ensure it is clean to prevent the spread of bacteria. This step is often overlooked but is essential for maintaining good nail hygiene and preventing potential infections.
By following these steps, you will have a prepared nail file that is ready to use for shaping and filing your gel nails safely and effectively. Remember to always be gentle during the filing process to avoid damaging your natural nails.
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Removing gel nails
First, you will need to prepare your tools. For hand-filing gel nails, you will need a nail file, ideally a new one, with a medium grit of around 80-100. You will also need acetone, cotton balls, aluminium foil, a glass bowl, a wooden orange stick or cuticle pusher, and cuticle oil.
Next, you will need to start filing. Begin by gently filing the surface of your nail with the 80-100 grit file. Take care not to apply too much pressure, as gel nails are softer than acrylics and require less force. File from the outer corner into the centre of the nail, repeating on both sides, rather than sawing back and forth. This process will take some time and patience. As you work, remember to wipe away the dust so you can see your progress. Once you have removed most of the colour, switch to a finer-grit file of around 400-600 grit. This will help you remove the final layer of polish without damaging your natural nail.
Once the gel polish is gone, you can use a wooden orange stick or cuticle pusher to gently scrape off any remaining colour or residue. Be careful not to scrape down to your natural nail. If you only have a metal cuticle pusher, be extra gentle to avoid damaging your nail surface.
Finally, finish by washing your hands with mild soap and warm water to remove any remaining acetone and dust. Dry your hands gently with a soft towel, and apply cuticle oil to moisturise your nails.
An alternative method to hand-filing is to soak off the gel polish. After filing the surface of your nail with a medium-grit file, soak a cotton ball in acetone and place it on your nail. Wrap your fingertip and the cotton ball in aluminium foil and wait for the acetone to dissolve the polish. This usually takes 10-20 minutes, depending on the type of gel polish. Remove the foil and cotton, and use an orange stick to gently push off any remaining polish. Finish by washing your hands and applying cuticle oil.
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Reshaping gel nails
Reshaping your gel manicure is a great way to switch up your nail style without having to get a whole new set. The first step is to decide on the shape you want. This could be anything from a square, round, or almond to stiletto or oval. Knowing which shape you want will help guide your filing technique.
If you're going for a square look, you'll want to start by filing the edges of your nails at a 90-degree angle to the nail bed. Then, file the corners straight to create a square shape. This shape is a classic and is less likely to break, making it a practical choice for those who use their hands frequently.
For an almond shape, you can start with square nails and clip the corners to create tapered sides that meet at a rounded peak. This can be achieved using a medium grit file, such as a 150 or 180 grit file. If you're feeling bold, you can also try a bolder shape, like stiletto, by shaping your nails into a triangular point.
If you're looking for something more feminine and on-trend, try a round or oval shape. For this, you'll want to file the sides of your nails straight and then lead them into a semicircle or oval tip. This shape is perfect for the spring and summer seasons.
No matter the shape you choose, it's important to use the right tools and techniques to avoid damaging your nails or skin. It's recommended to use a classic emery board or a glass file, as they are gentle on the nails and easier to clean. Always file in one direction, avoiding filing back and forth, to prevent splitting or lifting. Be extra careful not to dig your file into the nail bed and to dull the edges of the file to avoid cutting into your nail plate or skin near the cuticles.
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Aftercare
Moisturize and Nourish:
After filing, your nails may feel dry and brittle. It is important to nourish and moisturize them to restore their natural health. Apply a generous amount of cuticle oil to your nails and cuticles. Cuticle oil helps repair frayed nails, prevent breakage, and promote healthy nail growth. Massage the oil into your nails and cuticles gently, and then wash your hands with mild soap and warm water to remove any residue.
Buff and Shine:
Buffing your nails can help smooth out any ridges or imperfections that may have occurred during the filing process. Use a nail buffer with a fine grit, such as a 400- to 600-grit buffer, to gently buff the surface of your nails. This will also help restore the natural shine to your nails. Be careful not to over-buff, as this can thin and weaken your nails.
Shape Maintenance:
If you wish to maintain the shape of your nails, regular filing is necessary. Depending on the shape of your nails, follow the appropriate filing technique. For example, round nails are filed into a semicircle, while square nails have sharp corners. Ensure you file in one direction, from the outer corner to the center, to avoid damaging the nail.
Hygiene and Safety:
It is important to maintain proper nail hygiene and safety. Clean your nail file and buffer after each use to prevent the spread of bacteria. If using metal tools, such as cuticle pushers, ensure they are sanitized before each use. Avoid using metal tools aggressively, as they can damage your nails. Additionally, be cautious not to over-file your nails, as this can weaken them and cause peeling or cracking.
Nail Strengthening:
If your nails feel weak or fragile after filing, you can use nail-strengthening treatments to fortify them. Look for products that contain vitamin E, essential oils, or nail-strengthening proteins. These treatments can help reinforce your nails and prevent breakage. Additionally, consider applying a nail hardener over your nails to provide extra support and protection.
By following these aftercare steps, you can ensure that your nails remain healthy and strong after filing gel nails. Proper maintenance will allow you to enjoy your desired nail shape and promote the overall well-being of your nails.
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Frequently asked questions
For gel nails, a medium-grit 100/180 nail file is usually best. If you are removing soak-off gel polish, use a 180-grit nail file to break through the top coat before applying the remover. A 100-grit file is sharper and can be used for heavy product removal, but be careful not to over-file the nail.
When hand-filing gel nails, it's important to file in one direction from the outer corner to the centre of the nail, rather than sawing back and forth. This will help prevent damage to the nail plate. You should also be careful not to file too fast, as this can result in removing too much nail.
First, use fingernail clippers to trim long nails before filing. Then, file the nails into the desired shape, being careful not to dig your file and move it back and forth, as this can damage the connection between the nail and the nail plate.
