Noah Sinclair
Gel manicures can be costly, so it's no surprise that many people are opting to do their gel nails at home. While it may take some time to master the technique, it can save you money and time spent travelling to the salon. To get started, you'll need an at-home gel nail kit, which typically includes a UV or LED lamp, gel polish, a nail file, and other tools for nail prep and clean-up. The process for filling in or fixing gel nails will depend on the type of gel and the condition of your nails. If you're dealing with minor chips or nicks, you can simply file the damaged area and apply a new layer of polish. For more significant damage or regrowth, you may need to file down the existing gel and apply a new set of gel nails.
How to fill in or fix gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| How to reshape gel nails | Use a medium grit file (180 or 150 grit file) or an emery board file. |
| How to fill in overgrown gel nails | Use a coarse, 100-grit nail file or buffer to remove the gel top coat. Continue filing down to the old dip powder to prevent the final look from becoming too thick. |
| How to fill in grown-out gel nails | Use a nail buffer to gently buff the entire nail. This breaks the seal on the top coat and allows the new polish to adhere better. Use a nail file to level off the chip's edges to create an even base for the new polish. Apply a base coat to the chipped area. Once dry, apply gel polish in fine layers, making sure each layer is dry before applying the next to prevent air bubbles. |
| How to prevent gel nails from growing out | Avoid water when possible and avoid strenuous activities with your hands. |
| How to fix grown-out gel nails | Remove the shine from the surface of the nail to give the gel something to adhere to. Use Swipe liquid to cleanse the nail thoroughly. Apply two coats of Protein Bond to ensure the nails are ready for a gel nail fill. |
| How to reshape gel nails without filing or building | Use nail nippers to cut the corners of the nail diagonally. Use a board hand file to file the sides. |
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What You'll Learn
File nails with a 100-180 grit file to remove the top coat
When fixing or filling in gel nails, it is important to use a nail file to shape and tidy them. A 100-180 grit file is best for removing gel nails and breaking through the top coat. The 100-grit side is coarser and can be used to reduce the length of the nail and take down the surface. The softer 180-grit side can then be used to shape the nail.
Before filing, ensure that you have washed your hands and removed any debris or oil. When filing, always file in one direction to avoid splitting or lifting. Be very gentle and careful not to over-file the nail. Only the very top layers of the nail plate should be filed to avoid destroying the bond between the keratin cells, which can make the nail porous and cause it to separate in layers.
If you are removing soak-off gel polish, use the 180-grit side of the file to break through the top coat before applying nail polish remover. Once the gel polish is completely removed, you can gently buff the nail with a 180-grit buffer, but be careful not to thin the nail.
If you are filling in overgrown dip powder nails, use a coarse 100-grit file to remove the gel top coat. File down the old dip powder to prevent the final look from becoming too thick. If you are applying a lighter colour, be sure to file down to the base layer.
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Buff nails to create a rough surface for new polish to adhere to
Buffing your nails is an important step in the process of filling in or fixing gel nails. It helps to remove any excess gel polish or ridges on the surface of your nails, creating a rough surface for the new polish to adhere to. Here's a step-by-step guide to buffing your nails to create the ideal surface for new polish:
- Select the Appropriate Buffer or File: Choose a buffer or file with a grit of 100 to 180. A buffer block with a grit of 100 to 120 is ideal, as it creates the necessary roughness without damaging your nails.
- Hold the Buffer Correctly: Position the buffer or file parallel to your nail. This ensures that you buff effectively without causing damage to the nail.
- Use Unidirectional Strokes: Buff your nail in an X shape using gentle, unidirectional strokes. Avoid side-to-side or back-and-forth motions, as these can create heat that dries out and damages your nails. Four to eight strokes per nail are usually sufficient.
- Avoid Over-buffing: Over-buffing can weaken your nails and make them prone to breaking or splitting. Limit buffing to once a week, and use a light touch to avoid removing too many layers of your nail.
- Create a Rough Surface: Focus on creating a slightly rough surface, as a smooth surface will not provide enough grip for the new gel polish. You can feel the surface of the buffer with your fingers to ensure it's not too smooth.
- Remove Excess Oil: Before proceeding with the new polish application, remove any excess cuticle oil from your nails. This step is crucial because it ensures that the new polish will adhere properly to the nail surface.
By following these steps, you will create the ideal rough surface for your new gel polish to adhere to. Remember to be gentle and avoid over-buffing to maintain the health and strength of your nails.
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Remove shine from the exposed natural nail
When your natural nail starts to "'grow out'" of the gel coat, a gap will form between the cuticle and the enhancement. This can happen in as little as two weeks, but the timing will depend on your comfort level with the new growth. The longer you wait to fill in the gap, the more out of balance your nails will become, and the more prone they will be to breakage.
To fill in or fix your gel nails, you will need to remove the shine from the exposed natural nail. This will give the gel something to adhere to. You can use an e-file with a medium ending band to do this. An e-file is a small, electronic nail file that is easier to use in the small space between the gel and the natural nail than a hand file.
Be sure to remove the shine from the entire exposed natural nail before moving on to the rest of the nail surface. Once you have finished this step, you can use Swipe liquid to cleanse the nail thoroughly. Then, two coats of Protein Bond will ensure that your nails are ready to take a gel nail fill that will last for weeks.
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Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin
After a few weeks of wearing gel nails, your cuticles will likely have grown back, which can make your nails look messy and cause the polish to lift and peel. To address this, use a cuticle pusher—such as the Mylee Metal Cuticle Pusher—to gently push back the skin. Be firm but not too harsh.
It's important to only trim dead skin from your nails, never live skin, as this can leave your skin vulnerable to bacteria and cause infections. Before using a cuticle pusher, you can wash your hands with warm water and/or use a lint-free wipe soaked in alcohol to remove any debris and oil. Allow 3-5 minutes for your hands and nails to fully dry.
You can also use a nail nipper to trim any dead white skin and neaten up your nails. However, it's important to note that nail nippers are meant to cut nails and not skin. Be careful not to use your cuticle nippers to cut plastic or nails, as this can damage them.
After pushing back your cuticles and trimming any dead skin, you'll need to buff your nails, just as you would before a regular gel polish application. It's important not to over-buff your natural nails, as this can damage or thin your nail plate. Simply create a rough surface, and then use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust.
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Apply a base coat to the chipped area to enhance adhesion
Before applying a base coat to the chipped area, it is important to prepare your nails properly. Firstly, use a nail buffer to gently buff the entire nail. This breaks the seal on the topcoat and allows your new polish to adhere better to the old application. You can then use a nail file to level off the chip's edges, creating an even base for the new polish.
Next, apply a base coat to the chipped area just as you would if you were preparing your full nail for a gel manicure. The base coat will enhance the adhesion of the new polish and make it more long-lasting. The base coat acts like glue, helping the nail polish to adhere securely to the nail plate. It is a crucial step to ensure your polish lasts as long as possible and skipping it can lead to premature chipping and peeling.
Make sure the base coat is completely dry before moving on to the next step. You can cure the base coat under a UV or LED lamp according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once your base coat is dry, you can apply your gel polish in fine layers, ensuring each layer is fully dry before applying the next to prevent air bubbles from forming.
If there are still visible lines between the old and new polish coats, you can apply a coat of gel polish to the full nail to create a more seamless finish.
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Frequently asked questions
Soak a cotton ball in acetone nail polish remover and place it on your nail. Wrap aluminium foil around your finger to keep the cotton ball in place. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then wipe the nail with the cotton ball. If the gel doesn't come off, let the acetone sit for another 3-5 minutes.
File the chipped edge with a buffer to break the topmost coat of the gel polish. Then, apply two coats of a similar polish shade so that it blends in.
Push back your cuticles and remove any dead skin from your nails with a cuticle pusher. This is important to prevent future lifting. You can also talk to your nail technician about using an acid primer so the gel will stick better to your nail.
First, file the nail with a coarse file (180) to remove the shine from the gel. Then, use a softer file to gently go over your natural nail and remove any product that is lifting. Apply a dehydrator and primer to your natural nail, then apply your gel.
Soak your fingernails in a mix of water and white vinegar before applying the gel. The vinegar strips the nail of oils, preventing bubbles and helping the polish stick better.
