Sophia Delgado
Hard gel manicures are a great way to get long-lasting, chip-free nails. They are an impermeable nail enhancement product that can be done at home if you have the right supplies. The process involves cutting and filing your nails, applying a base coat, two coats of colour and a top coat, and curing your nails under a UV or LED lamp. Hard gel manicures can also be done as overlays or extensions, with extensions requiring a form or mould to shape the nails. It is important to note that improper curing or removal of hard gel can damage the natural nail, so it is recommended to go to a professional nail technician who understands the products and lamps they are using.
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Prepping your nails
Start by cutting your nails to your desired length using a nail clipper. If you plan to shape your nails, use a hand file to smooth the edges and prevent any jaggedness. This will create an even base for the hard gel to be applied. It is important to note that you should not file your nails too smoothly, as this can make it difficult for the gel to adhere properly.
Next, gently remove any shine from the surface of your nails. You can use an e-file with a medium grit arbor band for this step. Ensure that you use a feathering motion over the nail without applying too much pressure or digging into the nail surface.
After shaping and removing the shine, it is important to cleanse your nails to remove any oils and dehydrate them. This step will help the hard gel adhere better and create a longer-lasting manicure. Use a swipe liquid or a nail cleanser to prepare the nail plate for the next steps.
Now, you can apply a base coat to your nails. Brush on two coats of a protein bond or a nail hardening product to create a strong foundation for your hard gel nails. Allow this to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next step.
Once your base coats are completely dry, you are ready to begin the application of the hard gel. Remember to work in a well-ventilated area and follow the instructions on your chosen hard gel product for the best results.
By following these steps, you will be able to properly prep your nails for a hard gel manicure, ensuring a long-lasting and professional finish.
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Applying hard gel
First, prepare your nails by cutting and shaping them to the desired length. Use a hand file to smooth the edges and ensure there are no jagged edges. Gently remove any shine from the surface of your nails with an e-file and a medium grit arbor band. It is important to use a feathering motion during this step to avoid digging into the nail surface. Too smooth a surface can prevent the gel from adhering properly.
Next, cleanse your nails with a swipe liquid to remove any oils and dehydrate the nail. This step will help the gel to adhere better and create a longer-lasting manicure. After cleansing, apply two coats of a protein bond to further enhance the adhesion of the gel.
Now, you are ready to begin applying the hard gel. Using a jar of hard base gel, dip your brush into the gel and pull it through to get a nice bead on one side of the brush. Keep the gel towards the tip of the brush rather than at the base to ensure a clean transfer. Use a firm pressure to brush the gel from the cuticle to the free edge, going slightly over each side.
Place your nails under a UV or LED lamp for 60 seconds to cure the gel. After curing, apply a nail form under each nail. Using a circular and floating motion, apply the hard gel to build length and shape. Keep in contact with the gel as you shape it, adding more gel if needed to achieve your desired length. Cure the nails again for 30 seconds.
Build the body of the nail, focusing on the cuticle area first and then creating a perimeter. Cure the nail once more. Repeat these steps for all ten nails. Fill in any hollow areas or unevenness with additional gel and cure for a full minute.
Finally, use swipe liquid or nail cleanser/rubbing alcohol to remove the sticky surface layer. File the nails into your desired shape, and your hard gel manicure is complete!
Remember, hard gel manicures can last for several weeks without chipping, and you can change the colour or add designs without removing the entire manicure. To remove hard gel, it is recommended to go to a salon or use a nail drill to grind it off, as improper removal can damage your natural nails.
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Curing the gel
To cure your gel nails, start by setting a timer, usually for around two minutes, and activating the lamp. Keep your hands still under the light to ensure a perfect shine. You can use a UV or LED lamp, but LED lamps are generally preferred as they cure faster and produce less heat, making them suitable for sensitive skin. However, some technicians prefer UV lamps for their power and wider working area. If you use a UV lamp, be cautious as over-curing can lead to yellowing of the top coat, and prolonged UV exposure is not recommended.
During the curing process, it is essential to cure each layer of gel completely before moving on. This includes curing the base coat, colour coat, and top coat. Apply thin coats of gel polish, as thicker layers may not cure properly and cause wrinkling. If you are adding glitter, foil, or other decorative elements, increase the curing time accordingly.
After curing the final layer, use a cotton pad or paper towel soaked in alcohol or a specialised gel cleanser to remove any sticky residue. This step ensures a flawless and smooth finish. Remember to replace the UV bulb in your lamp every 2-4 months for consistent performance, and always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
By following these steps and practising with patience, you can master the art of curing gel nails and enjoy long-lasting, chip-free manicures.
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Removing the gel
Removing hard gel nails can be a tricky process, and it is recommended to go to a salon if you don't have much experience. However, if you want to do it yourself, there are a few methods you can try.
Firstly, it is important to note that hard gel nails are acetone-resistant, so you will need to use a nail drill to grind most of the gel off before soaking your nails in acetone. You can file the gel off by hand, but this will take a long time. It is also important to note that you should not pick or scrape the gel off, as this can damage your nails.
One method is to use a gel nail polish remover, which is faster and requires fewer tools than the traditional acetone method. This involves using a coarse nail file on the topcoat layer until it is no longer shiny and smooth, then applying a thick layer of gel polish remover to your nails. After 5 minutes, use a metal cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently push the gel polish off each nail.
Another method is the traditional acetone method. For this, you will need acetone, cotton balls or pads, aluminum foil, a cuticle pusher, and a nail file. Cut the cotton to the size of each nail to reduce the risk of getting acetone on your skin, as it can be irritating. Soak the cotton in acetone and place it on top of the nail, then wrap the nail with plastic food wrap or aluminum foil to create a tight seal. Leave this on for 10-15 minutes, then use a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently push the gel polish off.
You can also try the double boiler method, where you heat acetone in a double boiler to speed up the process. Alternatively, you can simply let your nails grow out and clip them once a week to remove the gel nail polish. This is a slow process, taking about 6 months for fingernails and 12-18 months for toenails.
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Aftercare
Hard gel nails can be a great way to get a polished, long-lasting look. However, it's important to care for your nails properly after a gel manicure to keep them healthy and strong. Here are some detailed aftercare tips to keep your hard gel nails looking their best:
Keep Nails Clean and Dry
It is important to keep your nails dry and clean. Moisture and dirt can weaken the gel, leading to chipping, lifting, or even infections. Avoid activities that may cause your nails to become wet or dirty, and be sure to dry them thoroughly if they do come into contact with moisture.
Avoid Harsh Chemicals
Harsh chemicals are the enemy of your gel nails' shine. Steer clear of cleaning products, gardening supplies, and other harsh substances. When handling such chemicals, be sure to wear gloves to protect your nails. Additionally, some nail polishes and removers may contain harsh chemicals, so opt for gentle, nail-loving products that combine breathability and restoration.
Nourish Nails and Cuticles
Nourishment is key to maintaining healthy nails and cuticles. Apply cuticle oil daily, and use hand cream regularly to keep your hands and nails hydrated. You can also apply a thin layer of Fortifying Ridge Filler to help smooth and nourish the nail plate, followed by a Nail Hardener & Base Coat for added strength and shine.
Protect Nails from UV Rays
Don't forget that your nails need protection from the sun, too! Apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands before getting a gel manicure to protect your skin from ultraviolet radiation. Alternatively, wear dark, opaque gloves with the fingertips snipped off during the application process.
Avoid Picking or Using Nails as Tools
Resist the temptation to pick at your gel nails, as this can damage both the gel and your natural nails underneath. It's also important to refrain from using your nails as tools, such as opening soda cans or peeling stickers, as this can cause chipping and lifting.
Give Nails a Break
Back-to-back gel applications can stress your nails, so it's important to give them a break. Try to go bare between manicures, and if possible, space out your gel manicures to allow your nails to breathe and repair.
Proper Removal
When it's time to remove your gel nails, it's best to see a professional nail technician who can safely remove the gel without damaging your nails. They will typically use a nail drill to grind most of the gel off before soaking your nails in acetone. If you choose to remove the gel at home, be very careful, as improper removal can damage your nails.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a gel nail kit, which includes a UV or LED lamp, cuticle oil, a nail buff, a top coat, a base coat, and gel nail polish. You can buy these items separately if you prefer.
First, cut your nails to the desired length and file them to your desired shape. Then, apply cuticle oil and gently push back your cuticles.
Start by applying a base coat and curing it under your lamp for 30 seconds. Then, apply your chosen colour and cure again. Finish with a top coat and cure for the final time.
You can use a gel nail polish remover or acetone. The latter requires more tools and takes longer.
Make sure to wipe your nails with alcohol after curing to prevent stickiness. Also, avoid hot water as it lifts gel polish faster.
