Caleb Foster
A structured gel manicure is a type of gel nail application that is applied thicker than a standard gel manicure. It can be used to add structure and strength to natural nails, allowing them to grow longer without breakage. The process involves applying a thicker viscosity gel to create a reinforced and natural-looking nail apex, similar to the dome of a bridge. This technique requires skill and is typically performed by experienced nail artists. The result is a long-lasting manicure that can last for three to four weeks. However, it is important to have structured gel nails professionally removed to avoid potential damage to the natural nails.
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What You'll Learn
- Preparation: cleaning cuticles, filing nails, and choosing the right products
- Application: applying the gel base and creating the desired structure
- Curing: using an LED light to cure the gel and ensure durability
- Sealing: sealing the deal with a top coat and optional nail art
- Aftercare: maintaining and removing gel nails, and potential drawbacks
Preparation: cleaning cuticles, filing nails, and choosing the right products
To prepare for a structured gel manicure, you'll need to clean your cuticles, file your nails, and choose the right products.
Cleaning Cuticles
Start by gently pushing your cuticles back with a metal or wooden cuticle pusher. Be sure to remove any cuticle that has grown up and over your nail bed. This step is crucial as it ensures you don't accidentally paint over your cuticles, which can cause the gel polish to lift. Use a cuticle remover to get rid of any dead skin around the cuticle area. Be careful not to nip any live skin, as this can lead to bleeding and infection. Once your cuticles are pushed back and cleaned, use a lint-free wipe with alcohol to scrape and smooth the area.
Filing Nails
It is important to file and shape your nails before applying gel polish. Filing helps to seal the ends of your nails, preventing snags. Use an emery board or a crystal nail file to achieve the desired shape and smooth edges. Remember, filing your nails while wearing polish can be harmful, so avoid doing this.
Choosing the Right Products
For a structured gel manicure, you will need a thicker viscosity gel. This can be a tinted builder gel in a bottle or a soft builder gel, depending on your nail length. Bio-Base Gel is an excellent option for short to medium-length nails, while longer nails may benefit from a soft builder gel for added thickness and weight. Additionally, you will need a UV lamp to cure the gel polish, a base coat, a top coat, cuticle oil, and a gel polish remover.
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Application: applying the gel base and creating the desired structure
To apply the gel base and create the desired structure for a structured gel manicure, you will need a gel with a thicker viscosity. The viscosity of the gel is important as it determines the thickness and texture of the final product. A thicker viscosity gel will give your nails a more defined structure and make them look plumped up. You can use a premium soft potted gel or a builder gel, depending on the length of your nails. For short to medium-length nails, a soft gel is suitable, while longer natural nails may require a soft builder gel for added strength and length.
The application process begins with cleaning and shaping your nails. First, clean up your cuticles and file your nails into the desired shape. This can be any shape you prefer, such as square, round, or almond. Once your nails are shaped, it's time to apply the gel base. The gel base can be a rubber base gel or a regular base gel, depending on your preference and the products you have. The base gel is applied directly to your natural nails, creating a strong foundation for the rest of the manicure.
To create the desired structure, you will need to build an apex. The apex is the highest point of your nail, similar to the dome of a bridge, and it helps your nails grow out without breakage. To create the apex, flip your hand over and let the gel fall towards the free edge of your nail due to gravity. This technique ensures that the gel builds up and creates a curved structure, making your nails stronger and less prone to breakage.
If you are using a builder gel, you may need to use a base coat to help the gel adhere to your nails. Additionally, you can use forms or foil to build up the length and create the desired shape. These are temporary structures that your nail technician can use to work the gel from the tip to achieve the right shape. Once the gel is applied and shaped, your nails will be cured under an LED light to set the structure.
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Curing: using an LED light to cure the gel and ensure durability
Curing is an essential step in the process of gel manicures, including structured gel nails. It involves using an LED light to cure the gel, ensuring durability and a long-lasting finish. Here's a detailed guide on curing gel nails using an LED light:
LED lamps are designed to quickly and efficiently cure gel polish. These lamps provide optimal light exposure to ensure that your gel nails cure perfectly, resulting in a chip-free, durable manicure. The curing process is straightforward and safe, even for those new to nail care.
When curing gel nails with an LED lamp, it is important to follow the correct timing recommendations. The curing time can vary depending on the specific gel polish used and the lamp's intensity. Therefore, always refer to the manufacturer's instructions for the gel polish and the LED lamp to determine the appropriate curing time.
During the curing process, the LED light emits a safe and specific wavelength of light that activates the photoinitiators in the gel polish. This reaction causes the gel to harden and polymerize, transforming from a liquid to a solid state. The structured gel, thicker than standard gel, requires adequate exposure to ensure thorough curing.
To ensure effective curing, it is crucial to prepare the nails properly before applying the gel polish. Ensure your nails are clean and dry, and consider using a gentle nail dehydrator to remove any excess oils. Additionally, avoid applying extremely thick layers of gel polish, as this can affect the curing process and lead to uneven results. Instead, apply the gel in thin, even coats, following the recommended curing time between each layer.
By following these instructions and using an LED lamp, you can achieve a durable and long-lasting structured gel manicure. Remember to maintain your LED lamp and follow safety guidelines to optimize its performance and prolong its lifespan.
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Sealing: sealing the deal with a top coat and optional nail art
Sealing is the final step in the structured gel manicure process. After your chosen nail art has been applied, your nail technician will finish the manicure with a top coat. This seals the deal, securing your nail art and providing a protective layer.
The top coat is an essential step in the process, as it helps to ensure the longevity of your manicure. It creates a smooth and seamless finish, blending your natural nails with the gel overlay. This protective layer adds shine and durability to your manicure, helping to prevent chipping and extending the wear time of your gel nails.
The type of top coat used can vary, and your technician may choose a product specifically suited to your nail type or desired outcome. For example, a premium soft potted gel or a thicker viscosity gel may be selected for longer-lasting results.
While sealing the structured gel manicure, your nail technician may also offer additional services or enhancements. This could include the application of cuticle oil or a hydrating hand cream to nourish your hands and cuticles, which can become dry during the manicure process. They may also provide a hand massage to promote relaxation and enhance the spa experience.
Additionally, your nail technician might offer advice on aftercare and maintenance to ensure the longevity of your manicure. This may include recommendations for cuticle care, such as regular hydration and gentle exfoliation, as well as suggestions for touch-up appointments to maintain the appearance of your gel nails.
The sealing process is a crucial step in the structured gel manicure, as it not only enhances the durability of your nails but also completes the overall aesthetic of your chosen nail art design.
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Aftercare: maintaining and removing gel nails, and potential drawbacks
Gel nail polish is set or cured under a UV or LED light. This makes the nails smooth, hard, and dry, and gives them an armour-like quality. To maintain this strength and to keep the nails looking their best, there are several things you can do. Firstly, do not file your nails unless it is absolutely necessary. If you must file them, do so gently and always finish by filing in a downward direction. Always wear gloves when doing general household chores, hobbies that are rough on your hands, or when using harsh chemical products. Avoid using your nails as tools to pull or pick at things. Be careful not to use any products that contain solvent oils, which can cause damage to the colour. These oils can be found in certain sun tan oils and insect repellents. To avoid colour fading when on holiday, wash any chlorine off your hands after swimming and dry your nails before sunbathing. If any lifting occurs, do not pick or pull at the nail. Instead, consider adding a dab of glitter to the base of each nail and blending upwards. This will hide the growth and give you a few more days before needing a refill.
To remove gel nails, you will need to break the "seal" of the topcoat. You can do this by gently filing through the topcoat and colour with a nail file (150-grit works great). Be careful not to file down to the natural nail, as you may damage it. Simply get the shine off and rough up the surface. You can then oil your cuticles and use your preferred removal method. One option is to use nail remover wrap foils, placing your hand in a disposable plastic bag and then in a hand warmer. Another method is the double-boiler technique, where you use a special bowl with a removable bottom to warm water and acetone. You can also just soak your nails in 100% acetone for 15-45 minutes. After this, the gel should flake off, but you may need to use a cuticle scraper to remove any remaining product.
One potential drawback of gel nails is the removal process. If not done properly, it can be damaging to the natural nail. It is recommended to book in a gel removal appointment to ensure no damage occurs on the natural nail.
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Frequently asked questions
A structured gel manicure is a type of gel nail application that is applied thicker than a standard gel manicure. It can also be called a structured gel overlay. The thicker application gives the nail strength and a natural curve, making it less prone to breakage.
On average, a structured gel manicure will last for three to four weeks. The rate of natural nail growth will impact the time between manicures.
After cleaning and shaping your nails, a rubber base gel is applied. This creates a strong apex, which allows your nail to grow out without breaking. Extensions can be created using builder gel, which is thicker and provides bulk and length. Your nail artist will then cure your nails under an LED light and apply a gel nail polish coat to create a seamless blend. Finally, they will finish with your chosen nail art and a top coat.
Structured gel manicures are an advanced nail technique that is best left to professionals. However, if you want to try doing your own gel nails at home, there are many resources available, such as YouTube channels, that can teach you the basics of gel manicures and help you progress to more advanced techniques.
