Isla Bennett
Japanese gel nails are a popular choice for those looking for a long-lasting manicure. Japanese gel is a true gel, highly pigmented and with a natural finish, and can be used for both nail art and full applications. Unlike other gels, Japanese gel does not require a bonder or primer, and it is formulated to last for over four weeks without chipping. Japanese gel nails can be created at home, with brands such as Kokoist and Leafgel offering courses for beginners.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Long-lasting manicure |
| Preparation | Thorough nail cleaning |
| Removal | Dissolve with acetone |
| Application | No bonder or primer needed |
| Ingredients | No toxic chemicals |
| Brands | Kokoist, Leafgel, Mayour, Nail Thoughts, F Gel, Mithmillo, Candy +, Zillabeau, Izemi, Vetro, Ageha, Pregel |
| Courses | Kokoist, Leafgel, Sierras Nails on Instagram |
| Lamps | SUN UVLED lamp, BIDUO Professional Rechargeable 86W UV LED Portable Cordless Nail Lamp Machine |
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What You'll Learn
Japanese gel nail kits
Kokoist offers two different kits. Kit #1 includes one or two colours—the toffee-labelled colours and micro glitters are recommended. It also includes a base gel, specifically the Platinum Bond Duo, which can be purchased in a pot or a bottle. The pot is recommended for professionals or those training to become nail technicians, while the brush-on bottle is better for at-home use. Kit #2 includes the Platinum Bond Duo in a pot for short to medium-length nails, an Excel Builder for medium to long-length nails, and a flat brush, oval brush, and thin liner brush.
Leafgel also offers two different kits with the bare minimum products. One option includes the Extreme Clear Plus gel base, which is longer-wearing but may not be the best choice if you like to change your nail colour often. In that case, the Sanding-free base or Quick-off base may be better options, as they are meant for fast and easy soak-off. This kit also includes two colours—K01, an off-white, and Dark Wine Red #517 are recommended. The second kit includes Sculpting Gel II, which creates thin and natural extensions and can be used to overlay long natural nails. It also includes two brushes, one for builder gel and one for colour and base gel, an 180g board file, a 220 sponge buffer, and a Glossy Top Gel.
In addition to these brand-specific kits, there are also some great starter kits available on Amazon. One option is a 22-piece set that has received positive reviews. Another benefit of purchasing a kit from Amazon is that it may be more cost-effective than purchasing individual products from premium brands like Kokoist and Leafgel.
When choosing a Japanese gel nail kit, it is important to consider your level of experience and your specific needs and preferences. For example, if you are a beginner, you may want to choose a kit that includes a variety of products to experiment with, or if you have short to medium-length nails, you will need to choose a kit with products that cater to that nail length.
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Nail art and embellishments
Japanese gel nails are a popular choice for those looking for long-lasting, chip-free manicures. The process of creating nail art and embellishments using Japanese gel involves several steps, requiring various tools and materials.
One of the key advantages of Japanese gel is its versatility, allowing users to create both nail art and full applications. The gel is highly pigmented, and a little product goes a long way. When it comes to nail art and embellishments, the options are endless. Users can opt for simple designs or more intricate 3D art, incorporating crystals, studs, and mica flakes.
For a simple yet elegant look, users can apply a base colour of their choice, such as a peach base, and then add a layer of rainbow mica flakes. It is important to gently apply the flakes without pressing too hard to avoid crackling. A small amount of product is sufficient to create a subtle shimmer. For a more subtle look, users can opt for a non-wipe matte top coat, such as the one offered by Leafgel.
To create more intricate designs, users can add 3D nail art, such as crystal clusters. To achieve this look, a medium-sized bead of fixing gel is placed on the nail, typically the thumb or ring finger, and crystals and studs are arranged to cover the gel. Non-flatback crystals are recommended for better placement and stability. Once satisfied with the arrangement, the crystals are flash-cured with a hand lamp and followed by a full cure. Users can choose to add these embellishments to all nails or opt for accent nails only.
Japanese gel nail brands offer a wide range of colours and products to create unique nail art designs. Brands such as Kokoist and Leafgel are popular choices, with Kokoist offering over 250 colours and highly pigmented gels. Additionally, Japanese gel nails are known for their long-lasting formula, which can go chip-free for four or more weeks when applied properly. The gels are also formulated without toxic chemicals, making them a safer option for manicures.
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Removal techniques
Japanese gel nails are a popular choice for those seeking long-lasting, chip-free manicures. While the application process is relatively straightforward, the removal technique is equally important to ensure the health and strength of your natural nails. Here are some detailed, step-by-step instructions for removing Japanese gel nails at home:
Acetone Soak-Off Method:
- Gather your supplies: acetone, a glass bowl, aluminium foil, a nail file, cuticle oil, and a wooden stick or cuticle pusher.
- Using a nail file, gently buff the surface of your gel nails to break the top coat. Be careful not to file your natural nail bed.
- Soak cotton pads in acetone and place them on your nails.
- Wrap each finger with aluminium foil to secure the cotton pads in place. Ensure the acetone-soaked cotton pads are in direct contact with your nails.
- Let your nails soak for 10-15 minutes. You may feel the gel softening during this time.
- Remove the aluminium foil and use a wooden stick or cuticle pusher to gently scrape off the gel. Avoid using force, as this can damage your natural nails.
- Wash your hands and apply cuticle oil to nourish your nails and surrounding skin.
Filing and Growth-Out Method:
- If you prefer not to use acetone, you can remove Japanese gel nails by filing them down and letting your natural nails grow out.
- Using a nail file, gently buff and file the gel nails until they become thin and less noticeable.
- Continue to file the gel nails as your natural nails grow out, taking care not to apply excessive pressure or damage your nail beds.
- Maintain proper nail care during this process, including regular moisturization with cuticle oil and nail strengthening treatments.
It is important to note that the acetone soak-off method is generally gentler on your natural nails and can provide a quicker removal process. However, both methods are effective for removing Japanese gel nails at home. Always ensure your nails are properly prepared and cleaned before applying a new set of gel nails.
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Rebalancing and refiling
Rebalancing and refilling Japanese gel nails is a straightforward process. Firstly, it is important to note that Japanese gel nails are typically "soak-off", meaning they can be dissolved with acetone. This is in contrast to hard gel nails, which need to be filed down thin and allowed to grow out. So, if you are rebalancing and refilling Japanese gel nails, the first step is to soak off the old gel. This can be done with acetone, which will dissolve the gel, allowing you to gently remove it from your natural nails.
Once the old gel is removed, you can start the process of rebalancing and refilling. This involves applying a new set of gel nails, following the same steps as you would for an initial application. Start by preparing your nails by removing any old product and wiping your nails with 90% alcohol to ensure they are clean and free of any residue. You may also want to remove any dried skin around the nails for a smoother finish.
Next, you will apply a base gel. Choose a high-quality base gel, such as those offered by brands like Kokoist and Leafgel, which are known for their strong adhesion and durability. Apply a thin layer of the base gel to your nails, adding a second bead for structure if needed.
At this point, you can also add any nail art or designs that you desire. Japanese gel nails are versatile and can be used for both nail art and full applications. You can use crystals, studs, and mica flakes to create unique and eye-catching designs.
Once you are happy with your nail design, finish with a top coat to protect and seal in your handiwork. Apply a thin layer of a non-wipe matte top coat, ensuring that you go around any crystals or studs without covering them to maintain their shine.
Finally, cure your nails with a hand lamp to set the gel and ensure long-lasting results. With proper application, your Japanese gel nails should last for 4+ weeks without chipping.
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Application methods
Japanese gel nails are highly pigmented and can be used for nail art and full applications. They are also known for their long-lasting formula, which can go without chipping for over four weeks. Japanese gel nails are also 5-free, meaning they do not contain harmful ingredients such as toluene, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), formaldehyde, and camphor.
- Start by preparing your nails. Remove any old product and wipe your nails with 90% alcohol to ensure they are clean and free of any oils or residue.
- Apply a thin layer of base gel. You can use a three-in-one builder base, such as the peach base from Kokoist, and add a second layer for more structure.
- If you want to add nail tips, you can use gel tips or polygel to adhere the tips to your natural nails.
- For a simple design, apply a coloured gel polish of your choice. Japanese gel brands offer a wide range of colours to choose from.
- Cure your nails under a lamp. You can use a brand lamp or a SUN UVLED lamp, which is a more affordable option.
- If you want to add some sparkle, you can use mica flakes. Gently press them into the wet polish and use a small amount of product to avoid crackling.
- Apply a layer of top coat. You can use a Non-Wipe Matte Top Coat from brands like Leafgel or Kokoist.
- If you want to add crystals or studs, use a medium-sized bead of fixing gel and place it on the nail. Arrange the crystals or studs as desired and flash cure with a hand lamp.
- Finish with another layer of top coat to encapsulate the charms and secure them in place. Be careful to go around the crystals without covering them to maintain their shine.
Remember to work in a well-ventilated area and always follow the directions provided by the gel nail brand you are using.
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Frequently asked questions
Japanese gel is a true gel, not a gel polish, meaning it is highly pigmented. Japanese gel is also a soak-off gel, meaning it can be dissolved with acetone, unlike hard gel which needs to be filed down. Japanese gel is also 5-free, meaning it does not contain common nail polish toxins such as toluene, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), formaldehyde, and camphor.
Some popular Japanese gel brands include Kokoist, Leafgel, Mayour, Nail Thoughts, F Gel, Mithmillo, Candy +, Ageha (nail labo), and Pregel.
First, prepare your nails by removing any old product and cleaning the nail. Then, apply a thin layer of base gel, such as the Kokoist 3-in-1 builder base. Next, add any desired colours or decorations, such as mica flakes or crystals. Finally, apply a top coat to protect the design.
When applying the gel, use a generously thin layer and add a second bead for structure. Be careful not to press too hard on any decorations, as they may crack or dull. Use a hand lamp to cure the gel and ensure your work area is well-lit.
There are several online courses available to learn about nail preparation and gel nail application, such as those offered by Kokoist and Leafgel. You can also find many free tutorials on YouTube or Instagram.
