Noah Sinclair
Hard gel nails are a long-lasting alternative to gel polish and acrylics. They can be done at home with the right supplies and technique. Hard gel nails can be done as overlays or extensions. Overlays are thick coats to strengthen natural nails, while extensions add length to the tips. The process involves shaping the nails, pushing back the cuticles, removing shine from the nail plate, and cleansing the nails. A dehydrator is applied to reduce oil and moisture, followed by a protein bond and primer. Hard gel is then applied carefully to avoid air bubbles, which can cause weakness and cracking. At-home gel nail kits, such as Olive & June The Gel Mani System and SensatioNail Gel Starter Kit, offer a cost-effective and convenient way to achieve professional-looking results.
How to do hard gel nails at home
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To strengthen nails and make them longer |
| Duration | Lasts longer than regular polish, up to months |
| Procedure | Shape the nail, push back the cuticle, remove shine from the nail plate, remove debris, cleanse the nails, apply a dehydrator, apply protein bond and primer, apply hard gel, cure the hard gel under a nail lamp |
| Supplies | Nail file/drill, cuticle pusher/wooden cuticle stick, nail brush, cleansing wipes, dehydrator/dehydrating cleanser, protein bond/primer/base coat, nail art brush, forms (for extensions), nail lamp |
| Brands | Olive & June, SensatioNail, Young Nails, IBD, Madam Glam, YN, Light Elegance, Akzentz, Cuccio Pro, LAVIS |
| Tips | Use thin layers of hard gel, avoid air bubbles, watch educational videos or tutorials before attempting |
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What You'll Learn
Essential items for hard gel nails at home
If you're looking to do hard gel nails at home, there are a few essential items you'll need to get your hands on. Hard gel nails are a great way to strengthen your natural nails and make them longer. While it may take some practice to perfect the technique, the process is straightforward and can be done at home with the right supplies.
Firstly, you'll need to get your hands on some hard gel. This product is also known as builder gel or sculpting gel, so don't be confused if you see these terms while shopping. You'll also need a nail file or nail drill to shape your nails and remove any excess gel. A nail brush and cleansing wipes are essential to clean your nails before applying the gel and to wipe the nails after.
To push back your cuticles, you'll need a cuticle pusher or a wooden cuticle stick. A dehydrator or dehydrating cleanser will help remove any excess oil and moisture from your nails, and a protein bond or primer will help the gel adhere to your nails. If your hard gel doesn't come with a brush, you'll need to get a nail art brush for application.
If you're doing extensions, you'll need a form or mould to shape your nails. A nail lamp is also crucial to curing the hard gel. You can also cure gel polish with this lamp if you want to add colour to your manicure.
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Preparing your nails
Firstly, gather the necessary tools: a nail file or nail drill, a cuticle pusher or wooden cuticle stick, nail cleansing wipes, a nail brush, a dehydrator or dehydrating cleanser, and a protein bond/primer or base coat.
Start by shaping your nails with the nail file or drill. File in one direction only, as filing back and forth can cause the nail to split. Next, use the cuticle pusher or wooden stick to gently push back your cuticles. This is an important step as it creates a neat base for your gel application and ensures the gel does not lift or peel prematurely.
After shaping and pushing back the cuticles, you should remove any shine from the nail plate. This step helps the gel adhere better to your natural nails. Use a nail buffer or a soft-grit nail file to gently buff the surface of your nails until they appear dull and the shine is removed. Be careful not to over-buff, as this can thin and weaken your nails.
Once the shine is removed, it is important to cleanse your nails to remove any debris and oils. Use nail cleansing wipes or a nail brush dipped in cleanser to gently clean the nail plate. Ensure your nails are thoroughly cleansed as any remaining debris or oil can prevent the gel from adhering properly, leading to lifting and peeling.
At this point, you can apply a dehydrator to further reduce any remaining oil or moisture on the nail plate. Dehydrators are particularly useful if your nails are naturally very oily or if you have applied any hand lotion prior to starting the manicure.
Finally, apply a protein bond and primer to your nails. The protein bond will help the gel adhere better to your nails, while the primer will create an even surface for the gel to be applied. As these products air-dry quickly, you can apply a second coat by the time you finish treating all your nails.
With these steps, your nails will be ready for the application of hard gel. Remember, proper nail preparation is key to achieving long-lasting hard gel nails that rival a salon-quality manicure.
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Applying the hard gel
Firstly, it is important to prepare your nails by shaping them using a nail file or nail drill. Push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher or a wooden cuticle stick. Removing the shine from the nail plate with a nail buffer will create a rough surface for better gel adhesion. Cleanse your nails with a nail brush and cleansing wipes to ensure they are free of any debris.
Next, you can apply a dehydrator to remove excess oil and moisture from your nails. This step is crucial as it helps the hard gel adhere better to your nails. Following this, apply a protein bond and primer to your nails. These products will help the hard gel bond more effectively to your nails and create a longer-lasting manicure.
Now, it's time to apply the hard gel. If your hard gel comes with a brush, use a light hand to avoid creating air bubbles in the gel. Air bubbles can lead to weak spots, causing the gel to crack later. Apply the hard gel in thin layers, being careful not to overload the brush. Start at the cuticle and apply the gel thinly by the cuticle and sidewalls, then apply a thicker coat to the rest of the nail.
If you are creating extensions, use a nail form—a semi-rigid paper guide placed just below the free edge of the nail. This acts as a temporary canvas, allowing you to shape the hard gel to your desired length and shape. You can also freehand the extensions without using nail tips, which requires practice and technique.
Finally, cure your hard gel nails using a nail lamp. Ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for curing time and lamp settings to avoid overheating.
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Drying and curing the gel
Firstly, you will need a nail lamp to cure the hard gel. You can purchase these as part of at-home gel nail kits, which also include polishes, a base coat, and a top coat. The nail lamp will cure the base coat, polish, and top coat in around 45 seconds. However, it is worth noting that the heat from the lamp can be intense and may cause discomfort. If you are concerned about the heat, you can purchase a lamp with a low heat mode, which will cure the gel gradually, usually within 90-120 seconds.
Before curing, you will need to apply the gel. It is important to be careful during this step, as you do not want to switch the brush too much and create air bubbles in the gel. These bubbles can cause weak spots, which may lead to cracking later on. Apply the gel in thin layers to avoid burning and ensure a smooth finish.
Once you have applied the gel and cured your nails under the lamp, you will need to allow the gel to dry and set fully. This may take a few minutes, and it is important to be patient during this time. You can speed up the drying process by using a nail dryer, but be careful not to smudge the gel.
After your manicure, you will need to maintain your nails to ensure the hard gel remains in place. As your natural nails grow, a gap will form between the cuticle and the hard gel. To address this, you can perform a nail fill, filling in the grown-out area with more hard gel to create a seamless, freshly-done look. This will also restore physical balance to the nail, preventing the gel extensions from becoming structurally weak and at risk of snapping.
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Maintenance and removal
Maintaining your hard gel nails is easy. The gel treatment will last for up to two weeks without chipping, dulling, cracking, or peeling. To make your gel manicure last longer, you can apply a thin coat of colour, as thicker coats may cause the polish to run and pool at the sides, creating an uneven layer, which leads to uneven curing. Also, lighter colours are less likely to show any imperfections, so when your nails start growing out, it will be less obvious to see the growth.
Additionally, always remember to cap the free edge to seal in the gel polish and help prevent chips and cracks on the end of your nail. Avoid getting any gel polish on your skin. If you do, wipe it off before curing. Curing even any gel polish on your cuticles can cause premature lifting. Always check the curing times of the specific gel, as they may not all be the same. UV and LED lamps also have different curing times.
Correctly preparing your nails will ensure your gel manicure looks pristine for two weeks. If you wash your hands before applying gel polish, make sure they are thoroughly dried. If your nail beds retain water after the application, the moisture will cause the gel polish to lift more quickly.
To keep your nails happy and healthy, give them a few days' break before reapplying. While you have gel nails on, avoid hot water and cleaning chemicals. Hot water can cause your natural nails to expand and contract, causing your gel polish to crack and lift. Harsh chemicals in cleaning products react with the gel polish, causing them to degrade.
To keep your nails healthy and moisturised, apply cuticle oil daily. Due to the alcohol-based cleaners and dehydrators used in the application process, your nails can suffer. Dry nails become brittle and crack more easily, damaging your gel manicure.
If you want to remove your hard gel nails at home, it is important to have the right tools and follow the proper steps. Most hard gels are acetone-resistant, so you will need to file off or grind down the overlays or extensions. Start by filing off the top coat, focusing on removing all the shine and breaking the gel seal so that the acetone can work perfectly. Then, protect your skin from dehydration by carefully applying petroleum jelly to the skin surrounding your nails. You can then soak your nails in acetone by dipping your fingers in acetone or wrapping your nails with acetone-soaked cotton pads wrapped in aluminium foil. As you unwrap the foil, you will notice the gel is already flaking off. Use a cuticle pusher to push off loose gels, but do not apply much pressure. If any parts of the gel refuse to come off, repeat the process of dipping cotton in acetone and wrapping it around your finger. After removing all the loose gel, gently buff the nails before applying cuticle oil to rehydrate your skin.
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Frequently asked questions
Hard gel nails are a type of manicure that can be used to create extensions or sculptures by applying the gel to the natural nail. They are longer-lasting than gel polish, which requires reapplication every two weeks, and can last for months.
You will need a nail file or nail drill, a cuticle pusher or wooden cuticle stick, a nail brush and cleansing wipes, a dehydrator or dehydrating cleanser, a protein bond/primer or base coat, an art brush for applying the gel, forms for extensions, and a nail lamp to cure the gel.
First, shape the nail and push back the cuticle. Then, remove the shine from the nail plate and any debris, and cleanse the nails. Apply a dehydrator to reduce oil and moisture, and then apply a protein bond and primer. Finally, apply the hard gel, being careful not to switch the brush too much to avoid creating air bubbles in the gel.
The Olive & June Gel Mani System comes with everything you need for a DIY manicure, including six polishes of your choosing. The SensatioNail Gel Starter Kit is a more affordable option that dries quickly and lasts longer than at-home manicures with regular polish.
