Noah Sinclair
Gel nail extensions with dual forms are a popular nail trend, especially on YouTube and among DIY enthusiasts. Dual forms are flexible, reusable plastic tools that help shape and form nail extensions using poly nail gel. They are beginner-friendly because they provide a pre-shaped curve that mimics the natural arc of the nail, which can be difficult to achieve manually. To begin the process, you should prepare your nails by cleaning them, pushing back the eponychium, and applying a base coat. Then, you can select the correct-sized dual form and apply the gel, ensuring it covers the sidewalls perfectly. Finally, cure the gel under a nail lamp, remove the dual form, and shape your nails as needed.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Nail extension |
| Use | Shaping and forming nail extensions |
| Material | High-quality ABS material |
| Reusability | Reusable |
| Ease of Application | Beginner-friendly |
| Pre-shaped Curve | Mimics the natural arc of the nail |
| Cleaning | Clean with an alcohol-based solution after each use |
| Storage | Store in a plastic bag |
| Types | Flat and curved |
| Curved Dual Forms | Suited for creating a more dramatic, noticeable arch |
| Size | Ensure it's slightly wider than the natural nail |
| Curve Matching | Match the curvature of the dual form to the natural nail |
| Application Technique | Apply poly nail gel from the cuticle area and spread outward |
| Placement | Gently press the dual form onto the nail, ensuring it covers the sidewalls |
| Curing | Cure the poly nail gel under a nail lamp for around 10 seconds |
| Removal | Pinch the dual form at the sides |
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What You'll Learn
Preparing the nail plate
Sanitize and Push Back Cuticles: Start by sanitizing your hands and pushing back the cuticles. This can be done with a cuticle pusher, which can also be used to scrape the nail plate and remove any dead skin or "cuticle" from the nail. It is important to ensure that the nail plate is clean and free of any debris, as this will help the gel adhere properly and avoid lifting issues.
Trim and File Nails: The next step is to trim and file your nails to the desired length and shape. Use a nail clipper to cut your nails to the preferred length, and then use a nail file to shape the edges and create a smooth surface for the gel application. Filing the sides and cuticle area will ensure an accurate fit for the dual forms.
Remove Shine and Dust: Using a fine drill bit, buffer, or file, remove any shine from the nails. This step helps create a rough surface for better gel adhesion. After filing, ensure you wipe away any dust from the nails and surrounding skin.
Clean Nails: Clean your nails thoroughly with rubbing alcohol or an acetone-based cleanser. This step is crucial as it ensures that the nail plate is free of any impurities, such as remaining cuticle oil or dust particles, which can cause the gel polish to lift prematurely.
Apply Nail Dehydrator and Primer: Once your nails are clean and dry, apply a thin coat of a nail dehydrator, followed by an acid-free primer. These products will help the gel adhere better to the nail plate and promote longer-lasting results.
Select Dual Forms: Choosing the right size and shape of dual forms is critical for a flawless application. Ensure the dual form is slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent the gel from overflowing. Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail shape as closely as possible for a comfortable and natural-looking fit.
Remember, proper preparation of the nail plate is essential for achieving the best results and ensuring the long-term health of your natural nails.
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Choosing the right-sized dual form
Size
Ensure that the dual form is slightly wider than your natural nail. This slight size difference prevents the nail gel from overflowing and allows it to adhere properly without the need for excessive pressure. It is important to evaluate factors such as the shape of your natural nail, the desired length, and flexibility.
Curve Matching
Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail shape as closely as possible. This ensures a comfortable fit and a natural appearance. Curved dual forms are suited for creating a more noticeable arch, giving your nails depth and dimension. Flat dual forms, on the other hand, can be used to achieve a more subtle curve. If you can't find an exact match, opt for a slightly larger size and gently file the edges if necessary.
Nail Type
Consider the type of your natural nails. For example, if you have fragile nails, you may want to choose soft gel tips that are flexible. However, keep in mind that soft gel tips are less suitable for more fragile nails. ABS tips, while very resistant, can be more rigid and may not offer the desired flexibility.
Nail Forms vs. Nail Tips
Nail forms and nail tips are two different methods for creating nail extensions. Nail forms are more secure and stronger than nail tips as they provide a customised fit and shape for each person. Nail forms can be used to create more natural-looking and thinner nails, but they may have a steeper learning curve. Nail tips, on the other hand, are the traditional method of extending nails and rely on glue for adhesion.
Practice and Experimentation
Remember that practice makes perfect. Experiment with both flat and curved dual forms to discover the best fit and style for your nails. With time and practice, you will be able to craft flawless gel nail extensions with ease.
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Applying the base coat
The base coat will help the gel nail extension adhere properly to your natural nail. Select a base coat designed for use with gel nail extensions, such as the Bluesky Base Coat. Apply the base coat to your nails and cure it under an LED or UV lamp. The curing time will depend on the product you are using—follow the specific instructions for your base coat. For example, the Bluesky Base Coat cures in 60 seconds.
It is important to note that the dual forms should not be pressed all the way up to the cuticle area. This will ensure that you don't have to do heavy filing to blend the natural nail into the new extension. The dual form should cover the sidewalls perfectly without pressing too hard.
After curing the base coat, you can continue with the rest of the dual form gel nail extension process. This typically involves applying a builder gel and curing it before removing the dual form and shaping and buffing your nails to create your desired look.
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Using dual forms
To use dual forms, start by preparing your nail plate and applying a base coat. Then, choose the right size dual form, ensuring it is slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent the poly nail gel from overflowing. Gently press the dual form onto your nail, ensuring it covers the sidewalls perfectly without pressing too hard.
Apply a thin layer of poly nail gel from the cuticle area and spread it outward, making it thinner near the cuticle and sidewalls to prevent bulkiness. Cure the gel under a nail lamp for a brief period (around 10 seconds) to start setting the gel, and then relax your hand as the gel won't shift.
If you need to apply another layer of gel for a stronger apex, simply repeat the above steps. Once finished, remove the dual form, shape your nails with a nail file, and use a nail buffer to remove the shine. Finally, wipe your nails with a cleansing wipe and proceed with your base coat, colour gel polish, and top coat to create your desired look.
It is important to clean your dual forms with an alcohol-based solution after each use to maintain hygiene and extend their lifespan. Store them in their plastic bag to keep them ready for future use.
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Finishing with a top coat
Once you've applied your gel nail extensions with dual forms, it's time to finish with a top coat to protect your manicure and add shine. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
Start by wiping your nails with a cleansing wipe to remove any residue. This will ensure that your nails are clean and ready for the top coat application. It is important to note that you should not use any acetone-based products for cleaning, as they can break down the gel and cause damage to your manicure.
Next, select your top coat of choice. A good-quality top coat will add shine and protect your nail extensions from chipping and lifting. You can opt for a regular top coat or a quick-dry formula, depending on your preference. Quick-dry formulas are ideal if you're in a hurry, as they can reduce drying time significantly.
Apply the top coat carefully and evenly to each nail. Start with the brush at the base of your nail, near the cuticle, and gently sweep it outward towards the tip. Ensure you don't overload the brush with too much product to avoid flooding your cuticles. A thin, even layer is all you need for a smooth finish.
After applying the top coat to all your nails, it's time to cure them. If you're using an LED/UV lamp, place your hand under the light for the recommended time, usually around 30 to 60 seconds. This will vary depending on the brand of the top coat, so be sure to check the instructions. Some top coats may also be air-dried, but curing under a lamp is generally faster and provides a longer-lasting finish.
Finally, once the top coat is cured, you can finish by shaping your nails to your desired look. Use a nail file to gently shape the free edge of your nails and a nail buffer to smooth out any rough edges. You can also use this step to add more definition to the nail shape, such as squoval (square-oval) or almond-shaped nails.
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Frequently asked questions
Dual forms are flexible, reusable plastic tools that help shape and form nail extensions. They are usually used with polygel but can also be used with builder gel.
Start by doing a dry manicure, using cuticle nippers and a cuticle pusher to push back the eponychium at the cuticle area. Then, use a cuticle pusher to scrape the nail plate and remove any dead skin. Next, wipe the nail with an alcohol solution to ensure nothing is left dragging or attracting the gel on the nail.
Selecting the appropriate size and shape of the dual form is critical for a flawless application. Ensure the dual form is slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent the gel from overflowing. Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail as closely as possible for a comfortable fit and natural appearance.
Start by applying a base coat to your nails. Then, apply a thin layer of builder gel or polygel from the cuticle area and spread it outward, ensuring it's thinner near the cuticle and sidewalls to prevent bulkiness.
Gently press the dual form onto your nail, ensuring it covers the sidewalls perfectly without pressing too hard. Cure the gel under a nail lamp for around 10 seconds, then relax your hand as the gel won't shift. Remove the dual form by pinching it at the sides. Repeat this process for all your nails.
