Gel Nails: Mastering The Extension Gel Technique

how to do extension gel nails

Creating extension gel nails at home can save you money and give you the satisfaction of expressing your creativity and personal style. The gel method is one of the most popular manicure techniques, as it allows for a long-lasting effect and gives the nails the desired shape. It can be applied to artificial nails or natural nails, and it is safe for everyone, including pregnant women and allergic people, as no harmful dust is released during the manicure. To get started, you will need a UV gel nail kit, which includes tools such as a nail lamp, nail forms, gel polishes, and brushes. The process involves preparing your natural nails, applying nail forms to achieve the desired shape, applying the gel polish, and finishing with a top coat. With practice, you can achieve salon-quality gel extension nails in the comfort of your own home.

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Preparing the nail plate

Firstly, ensure your natural nails are clean, dry, and free of any oils or debris. Gently push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher, avoiding any cutting or trimming. This step helps create a neat base for the extensions. Next, use a nail file, preferably a 100/180 grit file, to shape your natural nails to your desired length and shape. Filing helps create a smooth surface for the extensions to adhere to.

After shaping, it is important to wipe each nail surface with a cleanser or nail dehydrator to ensure the nail plate is thoroughly clean and ready for the next steps. You can use a dust-free pad or an alcohol-based solution for this step. Once the nails are cleansed, apply a high-quality, acid-free primer to the nail plate. The primer will help the gel extensions adhere better and create a more durable manicure.

Finally, select the appropriate size and shape of dual forms for your nail extensions. Dual forms are flexible, reusable plastic tools that help guide the shape and length of your extensions. Ensure the dual form is slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent gel overflow. Curve matching is also crucial; match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail shape for a comfortable and natural-looking fit. If you cannot find an exact match, opt for a slightly larger size, and you can gently file the edges for a perfect fit.

By following these steps, you will have a well-prepared nail plate, ready for the application of gel nail extensions. Remember, taking your time and practicing will help you master the art of gel nail extensions!

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Applying the gel

Prepare the Nails:

Before applying the gel, ensure your natural nails are clean, dry, and free of any oils or debris. Push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher, and gently buff and file your nails to create a smooth surface. You can use a 100/180-grit nail file to shape your nails and create the desired nail shape. This step helps the gel adhere better to your nails.

Apply the Base Coat:

With your nails prepared, it's time to apply a thin layer of the base coat. Use a high-quality, acid-free primer and apply it carefully to the entire nail surface, avoiding the surrounding skin and cuticles. The base coat acts as a foundation for the gel polish, ensuring a smooth and even application.

Cure the Base Coat:

After applying the base coat, it's important to cure it under a UV or LED lamp. Place your nails under the lamp for the recommended time, which is usually around 60 seconds. This step hardens the base coat and creates a strong foundation for your gel nails.

Apply the Gel Polish:

Now, it's time to apply the gel polish. Choose a colour that you prefer and use a clean gel brush to apply a thin coat to each nail. Start from the cuticle area and spread the gel outward, ensuring it's thinner near the cuticle and sidewalls to prevent bulkiness. Be careful not to get any gel on the surrounding skin.

Cure the Gel Polish:

Once you have applied the gel polish to all your nails, it's time to cure them again under the UV or LED lamp. Each layer of gel needs to harden under the light for two to three minutes or 90 seconds, depending on the lamp type. This process creates a chemical bond that connects the gel to your nails.

Apply the Top Coat:

After curing the gel polish, finish your gel nails with a top coat. Apply a thin layer of the top coat to each nail, ensuring even coverage. Place your hands back under the lamp for the final curing process. This last step ensures that your gel nails are smooth, shiny, and long-lasting.

Remember, practice makes perfect! With each attempt, you will improve your technique and create beautiful gel nail extensions that will impress everyone.

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Using dual forms

To use dual forms, start by selecting the right size and shape. Ensure the dual form is slightly wider than your natural nail to prevent the poly nail gel from overflowing. Match the curvature of the dual form to your natural nail as closely as possible for a comfortable and natural-looking fit. If you can't find an exact match, opt for a slightly larger size and gently file the edges. Each type of form has lines etched into it, acting as a built-in ruler to help you measure the poly nail gel length consistently.

Before applying the dual forms, prepare your nails by pushing back your cuticles and removing any dead skin or shine from the nail plate. You can use a cuticle pusher or an orange stick for this step. Then, apply a nail dehydrator and primer to ensure the gel adheres properly.

Now you're ready to place the dual forms onto your nails. Gently press the dual form onto your nail, ensuring it covers the sidewalls perfectly without applying too much pressure. Apply a thin layer of base gel to each nail, using a base-gel designated brush. Cure the gel under a nail lamp for a brief period (around 10 seconds) to set the gel, then relax your hand as the gel won't shift.

Finally, remove the dual forms and apply a bead of hard gel to each nail, bringing it close to the cuticle area without touching it. Then, cure the nails under an LED/UV lamp for 60-120 seconds, depending on the manufacturer's instructions. Finish by wiping your nails with a cotton ball dipped in alcohol and applying cuticle oil.

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Curing the gel

Preparing the Nail Plate

Before curing the gel, it is essential to prepare the nail plate properly. Start by pushing back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher. This way, you won't have to cut them. Use a nail file, such as a 100/180-grit file, to shape and buff your natural nails to your desired shape. You can also use a nail dehydrator or cleanser to wipe each nail surface and ensure they are clean and dry.

Applying the Base and Primer

Apply a thin layer of UV base coat or primer to each nail, covering the entire nail surface. Be careful not to get any product on the surrounding skin or cuticles. The base coat acts as a foundation for the gel polish, ensuring a smooth and even application. You can use a gel brush or a square gel brush to apply the base coat precisely.

Curing the Base Coat

Once the base coat or primer is applied, it's time to cure it under a UV or LED lamp. Place your hand under the lamp for a brief period, usually around 10 seconds to one minute, to start setting the base coat. The gel hardens under the UV or LED light, creating the chemical bond.

Applying the Gel Extensions

Now, you can apply the gel extensions. Take a gel brush and a sufficient amount of gel extension product, applying it to both the natural nail and the underside of the gel extension. Place the extension snugly against the cuticle and position it exactly where you want it, as it will be stuck in place once cured.

After placing the gel extensions, it's time to cure them again under the UV or LED lamp. Expose each hand to the light for around 60 seconds or as directed by the product instructions. This will secure the gel extensions in place.

Final Steps

Depending on the desired pigmentation, you may repeat the process of applying the gel colour and curing under the lamp multiple times (three to four times). Once your colour is set, apply a gel top coat, and cure it under the lamp for another 90 seconds. And there you have it—your gel nail extensions are now complete!

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Aftercare

Keep your natural nails healthy: Ensure your natural nails are clean and free of any damage or conditions. Regularly trim and file your nails to maintain a comfortable shape and length. Be gentle when filing and always finish in a downward direction. Keep an eye out for any signs of nail fungus or infection, and consult a professional if you notice anything unusual.

Moisturise and protect: Moisturising your nails is crucial, especially after washing your hands or exposing them to water. Use cuticle oil to moisturise your cuticles and the surrounding skin. Massage a few drops of cuticle oil onto each nail and gently push back your cuticles with a cuticle pusher. This will help seal in the colour, protect your nails from chipping, and enhance the overall appearance of your manicure.

Avoid harsh chemicals and activities: Protect your gel nails from harsh chemicals and activities that can cause chipping or peeling. Wear gloves when doing household chores, gardening, or any activities that involve hands-on work. Avoid using your nails as tools to pick or pull at things. Stay clear of products containing solvent oils, such as certain sun tan oils and insect repellents, as they can damage the colour.

Maintain and prolong the manicure: To prolong the life of your gel manicure, avoid filing or cutting your nails unless necessary. If you need to file, do so gently and always finish in a downward direction. Avoid buffing as it can ruin the texture of the polish. Apply a dab of glitter to the base of each nail and blend upwards to hide any grown-out gels and prolong the time between refills.

Book professional removal: When it's time for a change, book an appointment at a reputable salon to have your gel manicure properly removed. This will ensure that your natural nails remain undamaged. It is recommended to take a break of at least two weeks between gel manicures to allow your natural nails to breathe and prevent any potential damage.

Frequently asked questions

The gel method is one of the most popular manicure techniques as it allows for a long-lasting effect and gives the nails the desired shape. It can be applied to artificial nails and the natural nail plate. It is safe for pregnant women and allergic people as no harmful dust is released during the manicure.

You will need a UV or LED lamp, a nail file, a cleanser or nail dehydrator, a primer, a bonder, and builder gel. You will also need a gel base and topcoat, and coloured gel.

First, you need to push back your cuticles with a pusher and clean the nail plate with nail cleaner and a dust-free pad. Next, apply a non-acidic primer to the degreased nail plate.

After preparing your nails, apply a thin layer of the UV base coat to each nail, making sure to cover the entire nail surface. Take a form and determine the size and shape that best fits your nails. Peel off the backing from the form, and align the curved edge with the base of your nail. Press down firmly to secure the form in place. Apply a thin layer of builder UV gel onto the nail forms. Sculpt the UV gel to create the desired shape and length for your extensions.

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