Liam Carter
Gel nail infills are a great way to save time and product by filling in the nail growth with new gel. This simple process can be done at home and will keep your nails looking clean and fresh for around three weeks. The first step is to file down the existing gel polish, being careful not to damage your natural nail. Next, you'll need to push back your cuticles and trim any dead skin. Once your nails are prepped, you can apply a dehydrator and primer to help the gel bond to your natural nail. Then, apply your chosen gel, starting at the cuticle and dragging it up to the tip of your nail. Finish with a top coat to seal in your manicure.
How to do a fill in on gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First Step | File the nail with a coarse file (180) to remove the shine from the gel. Use an electric nail file or a hand file. |
| Next Step | File the top coat and some of the bulk. |
| Shaping the nail | Use a softer file to gently go over your natural nail and remove the shine and any product that is lifting. |
| Prepping the nails | Ensure there is no lifting of the gel, your cuticles are clean and any dead skin is removed. |
| Dehydrating the nail | Apply a dehydrator and primer to the natural part of the nail to help with the bonding of the gel to the natural nail. |
| Infilling with gel | Depending on the gel system, apply a base gel and then a builder gel. Starting at the cuticle area, place the gel carefully on the nail and drag it up to the tip. |
| Building the apex | Apply a little more gel to the centre of the nail to build up the apex and add structure. |
| Curing the nails | Cure the nails under an LED lamp for 60 seconds or a UV lamp for 120 seconds. |
| Painting the nails | Paint your nails with your chosen gel polish and create your desired nail look. |
| Sealing the nails | Finish with a top coat to seal in the manicure. |
| Frequency of infilling | Typically, people infill their gel nails around once every three weeks. |
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What You'll Learn
Filing down existing gel polish
Firstly, you should use a coarse file (180 grit) or an electric nail file to remove the shine from the gel polish. Make sure you only file the gel and not your natural nail. You don't have to remove all of the product, just the top coat and some of the bulk. Go gently and use a back-and-forth motion, applying enough pressure to remove the gel without being too harsh on your natural nail or surrounding skin.
Once most of the gel has been filed down, you can switch to a softer file to gently remove any remaining gel and shine from your natural nail. Ensure there is a seamless transition from your natural nail to the remaining gel. This step is important to prevent any lifting, which can cause the polish to peel.
After filing, you can move on to cuticle care. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin and trim any dead skin. Be careful only to cut dead skin and avoid the live skin to prevent infections. You can then buff your nails to create a rough surface that will help the gel adhere better. However, be careful not to over-buff, as this can damage your natural nails. Finally, use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust and wipe down the nail plate with a cleanser to remove any remaining dust, dirt, or oils.
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Cuticle care and prep
Once you're satisfied that most of your gel has been filed down, you can move on to cuticle care and prep. After a few weeks of wearing gel nails, your cuticles will most likely have grown back, which can make your nails look messy and cause the polish to lift and peel.
Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. Only trim away any dead white skin to neaten your nails. Please note: only trim the dead skin from your nails; never live skin. This can leave your skin open to bacteria and cause infections.
After prepping your cuticles, you'll need to buff the nails being infilled, just as you would before a regular gel polish application. Buffing is a really important step in any gel polish application process because it gives the gel better adhesion to the nail plate. Without this rough surface to grip, your manicure won't last nearly as long. When buffing, use a buffer block and move it in back-and-forth motions to create a rough texture. It's very important not to over-buff your natural nails; otherwise, you could end up damaging or thinning your nail plate. Just create a rough surface and then use a lint-free wipe to remove any dust and wipe down the nail plate.
Before applying your gel, you’ll need to dehydrate your nail surface. Simply glide the dehydrator onto your nails and leave it to air dry. Then do the same with the primer. This will help with the bonding of your gel to the natural nail.
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Applying the gel
Before applying the gel, ensure your nails are prepped. This includes filing down your existing gel polish, cuticle care, and buffing your nails. It is important to only file the gel and not your natural nail. Once you are satisfied that most of your gel has been filed down, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. Trim any dead white skin to neaten your nails.
Buffing is an important step as it gives the gel better adhesion to the nail plate. Use a buffer block and create a rough texture by moving it back and forth. Be careful not to over-buff your natural nails. Once you've finished buffing, use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust and wipe down the nail plate to remove any remaining dust, dirt, and oils.
Now, it's time to apply the gel. Depending on your gel system, you may need to apply a base gel first and then a builder gel. Starting at the cuticle area, carefully place the gel on your nail and drag it up to the tip. Once the whole nail is covered, apply some more gel to the centre of your nail to build up the apex and add structure. This will support the length of your extension. Turn your nail upside down for a few seconds to allow gravity to help give you more height in your apex.
Cure your nails under an LED lamp for 60 seconds or a UV lamp for 120 seconds. After curing, you can paint your nails with your chosen gel polish. Remember to cure between each coat of gel polish and always finish with a top coat to seal in your manicure.
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Curing the gel
Curing gel nails requires some training and practice to master. However, with the right technique and patience, you can achieve perfect results.
Curing gel polish involves using a UV or LED lamp to seal and harden the gel nail polish. This process is known as polymerisation, where the molecules in the gel polish bond together, forming a solid layer of colour that is resistant to chipping and wear.
To cure gel nails, start by applying a thin base coat of gel polish to your nails. Then, place your nails under a UV or LED lamp for the recommended time, usually between 45 seconds and 2 minutes, depending on the product. Remember to cure each coat under the lamp for proper sealing. After the base coat is cured, apply a thin layer of gel colour polish. You may need two coats for a more vibrant colour. Cure each colour layer under the lamp to preserve its flexibility. Finally, apply a thin layer of the top coat, sealing the free edge of the nail to prevent chipping. Cure the top coat under the lamp for a long-lasting finish.
It is important to note that curing times can vary depending on your nail type, the thickness of the gel application, and the type of lamp used, so always refer to the manufacturer's instructions. If you are using a UV lamp, avoid running it for more than 10 minutes when curing both hands to maintain safety. Additionally, ensure you store your gel products away from direct sunlight and warm temperatures to prevent them from curing in the bottle.
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Painting the nails
Painting your nails is the fun part! Choose your favourite colour and get creative. You can use a gel polish or a regular nail polish.
First, apply a slip layer of builder gel and don't cure it. Then, add a bead of polish on top and let it self-level, or use your brush to guide it into place.
If you are using a gel polish, remember to cure your nails under a lamp in between each coat of polish. Finish with a top coat to seal in your manicure.
If you are using a regular nail polish, you won't need to cure your nails under a lamp. Simply finish with a top coat to protect your manicure.
Your nails should now look fabulous and be ready for showing off!
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Frequently asked questions
Filing your nails is the first step. Use a back-and-forth motion, applying enough pressure to remove the gel without damaging your natural nail. Then, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, and trim any dead skin. Next, buff your nails to create a rough texture for the gel to adhere to. Dehydrate your nails and apply a primer. Now you're ready for the infill. Apply your gel, starting at the cuticle and dragging it to the tip of your nail. Add a little extra gel to the centre of your nail to build up the apex and add structure. Cure your nails under an LED or UV lamp. Finally, paint your nails with your chosen gel polish.
Make sure your cuticles are clean and any dead skin is removed. You should also ensure there is no lifting of the gel.
The apex is the stress area of your nail. Building an apex gives your nails extra strength and dimension, and it also protects your natural nail from the e-file.
You should use a builder gel or sculpting gel. This will allow you to build up the apex of your nail. You can't do a fill with gel nail polish alone; you will need to remove it completely and start again.
Typically, people tend to fill their gel nails every three weeks.
