Isla Bennett
Builder gel is a popular method for creating long-lasting, natural-looking nails. The process involves applying a thick, viscous gel to the natural nail to shield and protect them from breakage and splitting. It can be used to add length, thickness, and strength to nails and is much stronger than regular gel polish base coats. The application process for builder gel nails with tips involves several steps. Firstly, the nails need to be prepared by cleaning, filing, and buffing them, as well as pushing back and trimming the cuticles. A base coat or primer may then be applied, followed by the builder gel itself. The gel is painted on or picked up with a nail brush and then cured under an LED or UV lamp. The final step is to apply a top coat or gel nail polish and cure it again.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Buffing Nails | Helps the builder gel stick better, removing the shine from the nail surface |
| Nail Primer | Prevents gels from lifting off the nail surface, creating an even layer |
| Base Coats | Optional, depending on the builder gel; read packaging instructions |
| Curing Times | Varies across builder gels; follow packaging instructions for proper hardening |
| Nail Forms and Artificial Tips | Add length to nails, with nail forms wrapping around the finger to shape extensions |
| Nail Glue | Used to press artificial tips onto the natural nail surface |
| Filing | Ensures artificial tips align with natural nails, creating a seamless appearance |
| Builder Gel Application | Dab a bead of gel onto the nail tip, pulling the brush along the form to the desired length, then spread into an even layer |
| Curing Lamps | LED or UV lamps are used to cure the builder gel, following the time recommendations on the packaging |
| Removal | Soak nails in acetone for 15-20 minutes to remove the builder gel |
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What You'll Learn
Buffing your nails
Start by shaping and cutting your nails to the desired length and form. Push back your cuticles and remove any dead skin, being careful not to cut or nip any live skin. You can use a cuticle remover or cuticle pusher for this step.
Next, you will need a nail buffer. It is recommended to use a 180-grit buffer or a 100-120 grit buffer block. If you use a buffer or file with a grit higher than 180, your nails will be too smooth, and the gel may not adhere properly. Apply light pressure when buffing, as you only want to slightly roughen the surface of your nails. Move the buffer in a single direction, from the cuticle out to the tip of the nail, to avoid damaging your nails. Pay attention to any leftover polish or flakes that could prevent the gel from looking smooth when applied.
Be sure to buff the entire nail surface, including the free edge, which is the top end of your nail. This will ensure any excess gel polish from previous applications is removed, creating an even surface for your new manicure.
After buffing, brush off any nail dust and wipe your nails with a lint-free pad dampened with isopropyl alcohol. This will ensure your nails are clean and ready for the next steps of your manicure.
If you are using artificial nail tips, you may need to file the edges to blend them with your natural nails. You can then apply builder gel to the nail tips, shaping and curing them before removing the nail forms.
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Applying nail primer
Firstly, prepare the nail plate by cleaning it with alcohol to remove any dust or impurities. You can use an electric buffer to do this, running it horizontally across the top of the nail, from cuticle to tip, to create a rough surface. Then, brush off any nail dust and wipe the nails with a lint-free pad dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
Next, take your chosen nail primer and dip your nail brush into the bottle. Dab the primer onto your nails, spreading a thin, even layer over each nail, from the base to the tip. Avoid applying primer to your cuticles.
Wait for the primer to dry. This usually takes 40-60 seconds, but note that it may not dry completely, leaving a sticky residue. You can now apply your gel polish base coat and continue with your manicure as usual.
Remember to close the bottle of primer tightly after use, as it will evaporate and lose its properties if exposed to air.
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Using nail forms and artificial tips
Nail forms and artificial tips are used to add length to your nails. Nail forms are paper or plastic templates that wrap around your finger and shape gel nail extensions. To use a nail form, start by bending it to match the curve of your natural nail. Then, tuck the edge of the form underneath the end of your nail and stick the bottom flaps together to secure it to your finger.
If you're using artificial tips, you'll need to file the edges so they blend seamlessly with your natural nail. This will ensure that you don't end up with a visible line where the artificial tip meets your natural nail. Once you're happy with the fit, apply nail glue to the edge of the tip and gently press it onto your natural nail. Hold it in place for about five minutes to ensure a secure bond.
After applying the nail forms or artificial tips, you can start building the gel nail. Dip your nail brush into the builder gel and dab a bead of gel onto the tip of your nail, where it meets the nail form or artificial tip. Pull the brush slowly along the form, out to the desired length. Spread the gel into an even layer, focusing on creating the desired nail shape.
Once you've achieved the desired length and shape for all your nails, it's time to cure them. Hold your nails under an LED or UV lamp for the time recommended on the packaging of your chosen builder gel. After curing, remove the nail forms by pinching them together and slowly pulling them off.
Finally, cover your nails with an additional layer of builder gel to create a smooth, finished surface. Gently move the brush in a circular motion from the cuticle out to the tip, making the gel slightly thicker towards the middle of your nail. Remember to avoid getting any builder gel on your skin, as this could cause the nails to lift and come off.
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Curing the builder gel
The type of lamp you use is important. Builder gel is designed to cure and harden when exposed to the specific wavelengths of light that UV or LED lamps emit. Most builder gels will state on the packaging what type of lamp is required and for how long it should be cured. Typically, curing under an LED lamp will take 30 seconds to 1 minute, while a UV lamp will take around 2 minutes.
It is also possible to do a flash cure of 10-20 seconds to prevent the gel from running to the cuticle. After curing, the builder gel may look thick or misshapen, so you can refine the rough edges until your nails look uniform.
If you are creating 3D nail art, you may need to add a second or third layer of builder gel to create your desired shapes. Each layer should be cured under the lamp. Once all your gel is applied and properly cured, your manicure is complete!
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Removing the sticky residue
Isopropyl Alcohol
Isopropyl alcohol is a common and budget-friendly way to remove the sticky residue from your gel nails. It quickly dissolves the sticky layer, making it easy to wipe away. You can use alcohol wipes or lint-free cotton pads/balls soaked in alcohol to wipe your nails.
Acetone
Acetone is a strong solvent that can effectively break down long-lasting nail polishes. Soak a cotton ball in acetone and gently rub it on the sticky spots. Then, rinse your nails with water. Acetone can be harsh on your nails, so it is recommended to use it sparingly.
Gel Nail Cleanser
A gel nail cleanser is a handy product to have for your at-home gel manicures. It will remove any sticky layers and can also be used to remove oils, moisturisers, or residue before applying your manicure. Apply a small amount of the cleanser to a lint-free cotton pad/ball and wipe away the sticky layer.
No-Wipe Top Coat
If you prefer to avoid the hassle of removing sticky residue, you can opt for a no-wipe top coat. These top coats cure completely and do not leave any residue that needs to be wiped away. However, they may not be suitable for those who prefer cool or neutral colours, as they tend to turn yellow.
Soapy Water
As a last resort, you can try using mild liquid soap mixed with warm water to create a DIY solution. Soak your nails in this mixture for a few minutes, then use a soft nail brush or a toothbrush to gently scrub away the residue. Rinse your nails thoroughly and pat them dry.
It is important to note that some household chemicals, such as hand sanitizers and perfumes, contain high concentrations of alcohol and can be used to remove sticky residue. However, they may not be as effective as Isopropyl alcohol or a gel cleanser, and they could potentially ruin your manicure.
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Frequently asked questions
Buff your nails with an electric buffer to help the builder gel stick better. Brush off any nail dust and wipe them with a lint-free pad wet with isopropyl alcohol. You can also apply a thin layer of nail primer to prevent the gel from lifting off.
Most builder gels come with a built-in brush attached to the cap. If yours doesn’t, use a fine, high-quality brush for precise application. Apply the builder gel in a circular motion from the cuticle out to the tip, making the gel slightly thicker near the middle of your nail. Be careful not to get any builder gel on your skin.
File the artificial tips down so they’re even with your natural nail. You can also file down the top of the nail tip, especially around the cuticles, to blend it into your nail. Apply the builder gel to the nail tip and gently press it onto the surface of your nail.
Once you are happy with the length and shape of your nails, cure them under an LED or UV lamp for the time listed on the packaging. After curing, wipe your nails with an alcohol pad or a cotton ball soaked in isopropyl alcohol to remove any stickiness.
