Sophia Delgado
Hard gel nails are a long-lasting, chip-free manicure option that can be done at home or in a salon. The process involves applying a self-levelling gel to the nails, which are then cured under a UV or LED light. The curing process hardens the gel, creating a strong, compact polymer that is resistant to solvents and cannot be removed with acetone. Hard gel nails can be used to extend the nail or as an overlay to protect the natural nail. The application process requires some practice, and it is important to follow the correct steps to avoid damaging the natural nail.
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What You'll Learn
Preparing the nail
Firstly, shape your nails to the desired style. This can be done using a nail file or an e-file, gently smoothing the surface and creating a subtle arch. Remember to leave the gel slightly thicker at the mid-point of the nail for added strength. Pushing back the cuticles is also important at this stage, as it ensures the entire nail plate is accessible and ready for the gel application.
Next, it is essential to remove any shine from the nail plate. This step may seem unnecessary, but it helps the hard gel adhere better to the nail surface. After this, ensure you remove any debris and thoroughly cleanse the nails. A nail cleanser or even rubbing alcohol can be used for this step.
Once the nails are clean and prepared, you can apply a dehydrator to further reduce any remaining oil or moisture on the nail surface. This step is crucial as hard gel nails require a completely dry and oil-free surface to adhere properly. Following this, apply a protein bond and primer to the nails. These products will help the hard gel bond effectively with your natural nails.
Finally, it is important to note that hard gel should be applied with a feather-soft touch, as overworking the gel can introduce air and cause cracking. Be cautious not to apply too much product near the cuticle area, as any gel touching the skin may cause lifting. With these steps, your nails will be ready for the application of hard gel!
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Applying hard gel
Before you begin, shape the nail and push back the cuticle. Remove the shine from the nail plate, then cleanse the nails and remove any debris. You can then apply a dehydrator to reduce oil and moisture. Next, apply a protein bond and primer. As the primer dries, apply a second coat. Be careful not to switch the brush too much, as this can create air bubbles in the gel, which will lead to weak spots and cracking.
Once you've cured the hard gel under a UV or LED light, you can apply coloured gel and a top coat. Hard gel is usually limited to neutral colours like white, clear and pink. It's important not to overwork the gel and press too hard, as this can introduce air into the product, which can cause cracking. You can finish the process by filing and shaping the nail.
Hard gel nails are long-lasting and chip-free, but they can only be removed by filing, as they are acetone-resistant.
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Curing the gel
During the curing process, it is important to avoid overworking the gel and pressing too hard. This can introduce air into the product, leading to cracking. Instead, allow the gel to self-level and use a feather-soft touch, as recommended by experts. Additionally, be cautious not to create air bubbles in the gel, as these can cause weak spots and cracking later on. For runnier formulas, you may need to flash cure as you work to prevent it from flooding the cuticle area.
After curing, you may notice a tacky film of uncured gel, known as the inhibition layer, on the nails. This layer must be removed using a nail cleanser or rubbing alcohol. It is important to note that improper removal of hard gel nails can cause damage to the natural nail. Therefore, it is recommended to visit a salon or seek professional help for removal. The process typically involves clipping off the tip, filing off the colour, and then washing the hands to restore your natural nails.
The curing process for hard gel nails allows for the creation of a durable, chip-free manicure. However, it is important to be gentle and careful during the application and removal processes to maintain the health of your natural nails.
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Finishing the nail
Once you have applied the gel polish, you will need to cure your nails under a UV or LED lamp. This process typically takes 30 seconds under an LED lamp, or 2 minutes under a UV lamp. Curing allows the polish to harden uniformly. If you skip this step, the gel polish may dry unevenly.
After curing, you can shape your nails using a nail file to achieve your preferred nail shape. Be sure to file your nails gently to avoid damaging your cuticles.
Next, apply a clear top coat to seal and protect the colour of your gel polish.
Finally, finish by removing any tackiness with isopropyl alcohol.
If you want to remove your gel nails, it is recommended to go to a professional to avoid damaging your nails. However, you can also remove them at home by filing off the top layer with a 180-grit nail file. Gently drag the file back and forth until the shine is gone. Then, soak cotton balls in acetone and wrap them around your nails with tin foil. Alternatively, you can use a nail drill to grind most of the gel off before soaking your nails in acetone.
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Removing the hard gel
Hard gel nails are cured under a UV or LED light, creating a strong, compact polymer that solvents can't penetrate. This means that hard gel can only be removed by filing. However, filing off the product yourself can cause a lot of damage to your natural nails. If you have never done it before, it is hard to tell if you are too close to your natural nail. This damage can take 4-6 months to grow out. Therefore, it is recommended to go to a salon to get hard gel nails removed.
If you are set on removing hard gel nails yourself, it is possible to do so with a hand file. Hard gel is easy to file and works down pretty quickly. However, it will take a long time to file the hard gel off by hand. You can also use an e-file to remove most of the bulk, and then get the last thin layer off with a hand file. Be careful not to file your natural nail.
Another option is to soak off the hard gel. First, file off the topcoat. Then, cut up some cotton pads and soak them in 100% acetone. Cut up some foil and place a soaked cotton pad on each nail, wrapping it in foil. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes. After waiting, remove one finger at a time, as the gel will harden again once the acetone evaporates. Gently scrape off the gel with an orange stick or metal cuticle pusher. Don't force anything; if it's not coming off easily, repeat the process of soaking and gently scraping.
It is important to note that the acetone will dry out your skin and nails, so be sure to remedy this with some jojoba oil afterward. Additionally, have some acetone to dip your finger into when you are getting close to the natural nail. It will dehydrate your natural nail, and you will be able to see the difference between the gel and natural nail better.
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Frequently asked questions
First, shape the nail and push back the cuticle. Remove the shine from the nail plate, then the debris, and cleanse the nails. Apply a dehydrator to reduce oil and moisture, followed by a protein bond and primer. Apply the hard gel with a densely packed brush, and cure under a UV or LED light. Finish by applying a coloured gel and a top coat.
Hard gel is used for strength and structure, whereas gel polish is used for colour and art, with a little strength. Hard gel is used to extend the nail or as a protective coating, whereas gel polish is simply painted on.
Hard gel nails must be filed off, as they cannot be removed with acetone or traditional nail polish removers. If you do not have experience using a nail drill, it is recommended that you go to a salon to have them removed.
