Isla Bennett
Builder gel is a popular nail treatment that can add strength, thickness, and length to natural nails. It is a great option for those who want to grow out their nails or repair damage. The application process for builder gel involves several steps, including preparing the nails, applying a base coat or primer, and then applying the builder gel itself. The gel is then cured under an LED or UV lamp, and the process is finished with a top coat. While builder gel can be applied at home, it may require more skill and effort than traditional gel polish.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To create length, thickness, or strength in the nail |
| Application | Can be applied like average nail polish or layered to strengthen nails |
| Colours | Clear, nude, and light pink are the most common shades |
| Top Coat | Can be topped with traditional gel or nail polish to add colour or nail art |
| Extensions | Can be used to create short gel extensions or as glue to bond pre-shaped gel extensions |
| Hard Gel | Requires filing to remove; stronger than builder gel |
| Builder Gel | More flexible than hard gel; less likely to crack |
| Curing | Cure nails under an LED light or UV lamp for 1-2 minutes |
| Cost | $40 to $80+ depending on location, salon, colour, design, and length |
| Durability | Lasts 2-5 weeks without chipping |
| Application Technique | Builder gel is swiped across the nail to build up the apex and add strength |
| Application on Short Nails | The "Cap in Reverse" method is effective when applying gel on short natural nails |
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What You'll Learn
Prepare nails: Clean, file, buff, and push back cuticles
Preparing your nails is an important step in achieving the perfect finish when applying builder gel. Start by cleaning your nails with a prep solution or nail cleanser/acetone. Use a lint-free pad to wipe your nails clean of dust or cuticle residue.
Next, use a nail file to shape your nails and create a textured base for the gel to stick to. File in one direction, starting from the cuticle and working towards the tips of your nails. This will help to prevent your nails from lifting and peeling after application.
Then, buff your nails to help the builder gel adhere better. Take an electric buffer and run it horizontally across the tops of your nails, starting just above your cuticles and working towards the tips. Press down lightly as you buff, moving the buffer in a single direction to remove the shine from the surface of your nails.
Finally, push back and trim your cuticles. You can use a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently push back the cuticles. After preparing your nails, you can apply a base coat or primer if your builder gel requires one.
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Apply a base coat or primer
The first step in applying gel builder on very short nails is to prepare your nails. Clean, file, and buff your nails. Push back and trim your cuticles. Wipe your nails with a lint-free pad using nail cleanser or acetone.
The next step is to apply a base coat or primer. Some builder gels require a base coat or primer, while others can be applied directly to the nail. Check the instructions on the packaging of your chosen gel brand to determine if you need to use a base coat or primer. If you are using a primer, dip your nail brush into the bottle and dab it onto your nails. If you are using a base coat, dip your brush into the builder gel and dab it onto the centre of each nail. Lightly float the brush over your nail to spread the base coat in a thin layer over the nail. Once you have finished applying the gel, hold your hand upside down for about 10 seconds to allow the gel to smooth out. Then, cure your nails under an LED lamp for 30 seconds or a UV lamp for 2 minutes, following the directions on the packaging of your chosen gel brand.
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Use a brush to apply builder gel
Applying builder gel on very short nails can be tricky, especially if you want to cap the free edge. To apply builder gel with a brush, start by dipping the brush into the builder gel. Then, gently dab the brush onto the centre of each nail. Lightly float the brush over your nail to spread the base coat in a thin layer over the nail. You can also use circular motions to spread the gel around and up to your cuticle. Be careful not to get the gel on your skin or cuticle.
Next, use a downward motion or swing the brush from side to side to work the builder gel towards the end of the nail. Make the gel slightly thicker near the middle of your nail. Apply the builder gel to all of your nails before curing them under an LED lamp for 30 seconds to 1 minute or a UV lamp for 2 minutes, depending on the product's instructions.
If you are using nail forms or artificial tips for extensions, the process is slightly different. After applying the nail form or artificial tip, dip your brush into the builder gel and dab a bead of gel onto the tip of your nail where it meets the nail form. Slowly pull the brush along the form to your desired length. Spread the gel into an even layer over the nail form. Once you are happy with the length and shape, cure your nails under an LED or UV lamp for the time listed on the packaging.
It is important to note that curing times may vary for different builder gels, so always follow the directions on the packaging to ensure proper hardening. Additionally, buffing your nails before applying the builder gel can help the gel adhere better and create a smoother finish.
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Cure nails under an LED or UV lamp
Curing your nails under an LED or UV lamp is an important step in the gel manicure process. It involves hardening the gel polish using ultraviolet (UV) light, which is emitted by both LED and UV lamps. Here's a step-by-step guide to curing your nails under an LED or UV lamp:
Prepare the Nails:
Before curing, ensure your nails are properly prepared. Start by buffing your nails with an electric buffer to create a rough surface for better gel adhesion. Brush off any nail dust and wipe your nails with a lint-free pad dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Apply a thin layer of nail primer to prevent lifting and enhance adhesion.
Apply the Gel:
Dip your brush into the builder gel and dab it onto the center of each nail. Gently float the brush over the nail to spread the gel in a thin, even layer. After applying the gel, hold your hand upside down for about 10 seconds to allow the gel to smooth out.
Cure under the Lamp:
Now it's time to cure your nails under the lamp. If you're using an LED lamp, cure for 30 seconds. For a UV lamp, cure for 2 minutes. Refer to the gel's packaging for specific instructions, as curing times may vary depending on the brand and type of gel. Remember to cure each layer of gel separately, including the base coat and top coat.
Shape and Finish:
After curing, you can shape your nails using a nail file. Finish by applying a top coat or gel nail polish and curing it for an additional 1-2 minutes.
Safety Considerations:
It's important to note that UV exposure carries potential risks. Both LED and UV lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, primarily in the form of UVA rays, which have been linked to an increased risk of skin cancer. To minimize risks, protect your skin by applying sunscreen or wearing fingerless gloves during the curing process. Additionally, ensure you are using the correct nail lamp and following the manufacturer's instructions for curing times and wavelengths to avoid under-curing or over-curing.
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Finish with a top coat or nail art
Once you have applied the builder gel, cured your nails, and shaped them with a file, you can finish with a top coat or nail art.
Builder gel nails can be finished with a top coat to add shine and protect your nails from chipping. You can use a high-gloss top coat, or a non-yellowing formula to preserve the colour underneath. Apply the top coat and cure your nails for one to two minutes.
If you are creating nail art, you can use a builder gel as a base for your design. You can use a clear, nude, or light pink builder gel as a base, and then add your chosen design on top. You can also use builder gel as a glue to bond pre-shaped gel extensions to your natural nails, and then add nail art on top.
If you are creating intricate nail art, you may want to use a top coat to seal in the design and protect it from wear and tear.
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Frequently asked questions
Start by cleaning, filing, and buffing your nails. Push back and trim your cuticles. Wipe your nails with a lint-free pad and nail cleanser or acetone to remove any dust or cuticle residue. You can also apply SPF 30 or greater to protect your hands from UV rays during the curing process.
Follow the instructions on your chosen gel brand's packaging. Some brands require a primer or base coat, while others can be applied directly to the nail. Use a fine, high-quality brush for precise application and ensure you cover the free edge of the nail. Allow the gel to self-level and settle for a few seconds to achieve an even layer.
Cure your nails under an LED or UV lamp, following the timing recommendations on the gel's packaging. Most builder gels will require 1-2 minutes of curing time. Hold your hand upside down for about 10 seconds after application to allow the gel to smooth out.
Yes, you can add colour or nail art to your builder gel nails. Apply your desired colour or nail art, followed by a top coat of gel nail polish, and cure for 1-2 minutes. You can also use builder gel as a base for natural-looking nails or to create short gel extensions.
