Caleb Foster
Gel manicures are a popular choice for those who want natural-looking nails with the strength of acrylics. However, gel manicures can also leave nails brittle and dry, so it's important to know how to care for your nails after gel application and removal. In this article, we will discuss how to smooth gel nails, treat post-gel nail damage, and reshape your gel manicure to achieve your desired nail shape. We will also provide a step-by-step guide to achieving smooth gel nails at home, from preparing your nails to sealing the final look.
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What You'll Learn
Cut, file and shape your nails
Cutting, filing and shaping your nails is an important step in achieving the perfect gel manicure. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you achieve well-shaped nails:
Cutting Your Nails
Firstly, decide on the nail shape you wish to achieve. Common shapes include square, round, oval, almond and stiletto. For a square shape, cut your nails on a shallow slant. For a round shape, cut closer to the top of the nail, leaving some length so you can file it into a curve later. For an almond or oval shape, you may need to clip the corners of your nails diagonally. If you want a stiletto shape, cut the sides of your nails on a more drastic slant towards the tip.
Filing Your Nails
Once you have achieved your desired length, it is time to file your nails. Use a board hand file with a medium grit of 150 or 180, or a fine grit of 240 or higher. Gently file your nails in one direction, being careful not to file off too much. For a square shape, file the edges of your nails at a 90-degree angle to the nail bed, then file the corners to make them straight and square. For a round or oval shape, use the file to smooth out any bumps and create a curved shape. For an almond shape, file the sides of your nails towards the centre point of your cuticle and the free edge. For a stiletto shape, file the sides of your nails into a tapered point, starting at the centre and gradually tapering down to the tip.
Finishing Touches
Once you are happy with the shape of your nails, use a dry brush to dust off any excess nail filings. Then, wet the brush with 90% alcohol and dust your nails again, remembering to brush underneath. Finally, apply a layer of topcoat to your nails to finish.
Remember to cut and file your nails regularly to keep them in the best shape and prevent chipping.
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Buff your nails
Buffing your nails is an important step in achieving a smooth finish. It helps remove ridges and smooths the nail surface, creating an even canvas for your gel manicure. Here is a step-by-step guide to buffing your nails:
Step 1: File Your Nails
Start by filing your nails to your desired shape. It is recommended to use a medium grit file, such as a 150 or 180 grit file, for effective shaping. Place the nail file perpendicular to your nail and then angle it slightly. Follow the curve of your finger and slide the file from one corner of your nail to the other in a single direction. Repeat this process for each nail until you achieve the desired shape. Avoid filing back and forth, as this can damage the nail.
Step 2: Buff Your Nails
Hold the buffer parallel to your nail. Use the large grit side of the buffer and place it on your nail. Buff your nails gently, using unidirectional strokes in an X shape. Avoid buffing side-to-side, as this can create heat that dries out and damages your nails.
Step 3: Polish Your Nails
After buffing, use the polish side of the buffer, which has a finer grit, to remove any remaining imperfections and make your nails even smoother. Polish your nails with four to six X strokes, following the same direction as the buffing step. This step ensures that your nails are smooth and ready for the next steps of your gel manicure.
Step 4: Shine Your Nails
Using the smooth side of your nail buffing block, make small circular motions over your nails to give them a healthy-looking, glossy finish. Your nails will feel smooth to the touch and have a beautiful shine.
Step 5: Nourish and Moisturize
Finish by applying a small amount of cuticle oil to nourish and moisturize your nails and fingertips. This step helps to maintain the health of your nails and surrounding skin. Remember to stick to buffing your nails around once a month to avoid causing damage or making your nails brittle.
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Seal your nails
Sealing your nails is an important step in the process of achieving smooth gel nails. Here is a detailed guide on how to effectively seal your nails:
Start by selecting a suitable nail strengthener to create a protective barrier for your natural nails. Apply a thin layer of the nail strengthener of your choice, such as the Fiote nail hardener, and allow it to dry completely. This step ensures that your natural nails are protected and strengthened before proceeding with the sealing process.
Next, grab your trusty buffer! But be cautious—while buffering is essential, over-buffing can lead to thinning your nails. Gently buff your nails, focusing only on the areas where the gel was applied. Avoid the new growth area to prevent any accidental damage. Use a high-quality buffer designed specifically for nails to avoid excessive thinning.
Now, it's time to reach for your 220/280-grit buffer. Start with the coarser side first and then switch to the softer side. Buff each fingernail, applying gentle pressure, especially around the sidewalls. This process helps create a smooth and even surface for the final sealing steps.
For a high-shine finish, it's time to introduce The Shiner. This super-fine 1000-grit tool will add a dazzling shine to your nails. Start with the green area, which is around a 400-grit, and work your way across all ten fingernails. You'll notice that this step removes the nail's shine, leaving a fine dust.
Finally, it's time to dust off the nails with a dry brush. Then, wet the brush with 90% alcohol, and give your nails a final dusting. Don't forget to brush underneath your nails, too! This step ensures that any remaining dust or particles are removed, leaving your nails smooth, sealed, and ready to show off!
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Remove gel polish
Removing gel nail polish can be tricky, especially if you want to avoid damaging your nails. The best way to remove gel nail polish is to soak your nails in acetone, which is an effective way to remove the polish at home.
Firstly, prepare your work area by lining it with plastic wrap to protect your surfaces. Then, place a thick towel on top. It is also a good idea to apply a little cuticle oil or Vaseline to the skin around your nails to protect it during the removal process.
Next, prepare a bowl filled with acetone. You can either soak your nails directly in the bowl or use cotton wool balls soaked in acetone, secured to your nails with foil. If using the bowl method, soak your nails for 10-15 minutes. If using the cotton wool balls, leave them on for 15 minutes.
After soaking, most or all of the gel nail polish should come off easily. If not, gently scrape it off with a gel scraper or orangewood stick. Be careful not to use too much force as this can damage your nails. Finally, wash your hands with a gentle, fragrance-free soap and water to remove the acetone.
An alternative method to remove gel nail polish is to let your nails grow out and then clip them. However, this is a slow process and can take up to six months for fingernails and 12-18 months for toenails.
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Strengthen your nails
If you're looking to strengthen your nails, there are a few key steps you can take. Firstly, it's important to start with a good base. Make sure your nails are clean and free of any old polish. File your nails gently in one direction to shape them, using a glass nail file instead of clippers to avoid accidentally cutting them too short. Keep your corners rounded to prevent snagging.
Next, you'll want to apply a ridge-filling base coat. You can use a product like OPI's Nail Envy, which can be applied directly to your natural nail and will help fill in any ridges or damage. If your nails are particularly weak, you may want to consider a soft gel base coat, such as the Kokoist Megastick Base Coat, which will give your nails flexibility and protection. You can also apply a thin coat of Megastick base under your builder gel to help it adhere better.
To further strengthen your nails, you can use a product like Hard Gel, which is slightly thicker than normal gel polish and will add extra strength and protection to your nails. This can be used under your coloured gel polish or on its own for a natural look. Apply your base coat, followed by one to two coats of Hard Gel, your chosen colour coats, and finally, a top coat.
Additionally, incorporating nail oils can be beneficial. Jojoba oil, in particular, is recommended as it is similar to the body's natural oils, allowing it to penetrate the layers of keratin and help keep the nail flexible. You can also add essential oils like tea tree, eucalyptus, and lavender for their anti-fungal and antimicrobial properties. Apply the oil at least three times a day, focusing on massaging it into the cuticle area to promote blood flow and enhance nail growth.
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