Ava Monroe
Adding gems to gel nails is a fun way to create dazzling nail art designs. The process is simple: after curing your final gel colour coat, apply a thin layer of non-cleanse top coat and let it remain uncured. Then, place the gems into the tacky top coat and seal them in with another thin layer. Cure both layers and cleanse off the dispersion for a smooth finish. It is important to use a quality gem adhesive and to work quickly, as you need the gems to stick before the top coat dries. You can also use gel as an adhesive, placing the gems into the base gel and fully encapsulating them with the gel overlay, curing between layers.
How to add gems to gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Gem type | Flat-backed, acrylic, glass, synthetic crystals, Swarovski crystals, rhinestones |
| Gem size | Smaller stones are better for natural nails |
| Gem placement | Closer to the cuticle for stability |
| Adhesive | Gel, glue, resin, top coat |
| Application tools | Toothpick, wax pencil, tweezers, wax-tipped wand, dotting tool, cuticle stick, gel wand |
| Application technique | Apply adhesive to the nail, not the gem; press gem into adhesive; apply top coat around the base of the gem |
| Curing technique | Use a UV or LED lamp; ask the client to pivot their hand from side to side |
| Durability | Gems applied with gel are more durable than those applied with top coat |
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What You'll Learn
- Gem type: Opt for flat-back gems, glass or synthetic crystals for more sparkle and durability
- Adhesive: Use a gel top coat, nail glue or gel nail polish as an adhesive
- Placement: Place gems closer to the cuticle for more stability
- Application: Use a wax pencil, tweezers or a toothpick to pick up and place gems
- Top coat: Apply a thin layer of top coat around the gems to seal them in place
Gem type: Opt for flat-back gems, glass or synthetic crystals for more sparkle and durability
When it comes to adding gems to gel nails, it's important to choose the right type of gems for a long-lasting, sparkling finish. Opting for flat-back gems made of glass or synthetic crystals will give you more sparkle and durability.
Flat-back gems are a popular choice for nail art because they sit securely on the nail's surface and don't snag easily. They are also easier to apply yourself, as they don't require any special mediums or powders to set them in place. Simply use nail glue or a gel top coat as an adhesive. If you're using glue, apply it to the nail, not the gem, and use a moistened cuticle stick or wax-tipped tool for precise placement. For larger gems, consider using a thick, stiff gel to set them in place and ask your client to pivot their hand from side to side while curing under a lamp to ensure the gel cures evenly.
Glass and synthetic crystals are known for their sparkle and durability. They tend to be more expensive than acrylic gems, but they are worth the investment if you want long-lasting shine. When choosing glass or synthetic crystals, look for precision cuts and vibrant colors to ensure your nails stand out. Brands like Preciosa and Serinity offer high-quality crystals with exceptional brilliance and durability. Additionally, these crystals can be soaked off and reapplied at future appointments, making them a cost-effective option in the long run.
When selecting gems, it's important to consider the size and arrangement. For natural nails, smaller stones are recommended as they provide a more stable surface. Larger stones can be used, but they should be secured around the entire perimeter of the nail to prevent snagging. For extra-large gems, look for a slight curve on the bottom to minimize snagging. As a general rule, veteran nail artist Gina Silvestro recommends limiting the size of flat-backed stones to 8mm or less.
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Adhesive: Use a gel top coat, nail glue or gel nail polish as an adhesive
When using a gel top coat, nail glue, or gel nail polish as an adhesive, it is important to select the appropriate type of gem. Acrylic gems are the least expensive and come in a variety of colours and shapes, but they are not very durable, lack lustre, and may not work well with gel. Glass or synthetic crystals are more sparkly and durable but come at a higher cost. For larger gems, look for a slight curve at the bottom, as flat-backed gems that are too large tend to snag easily.
If you are using a gel top coat, apply a matte or non-wipe top coat to the finished nail before placing your gems. When using larger crystals, opt for a firm yet flexible gel. Using a brush or dotting tool, pick up a bead of gel that is roughly half the size of the crystal. Apply the gel to the nail and use a wax-tipped gem wand, dotting tool, or tweezers to place and press the gem into it. You can also apply a non-wipe top coat over the bead of gel before curing to ensure that a tacky layer is not left behind.
For nail glue, choose a quick-set glue and apply it to the nail, not the gem. Place the gem onto the nail using a moistened cuticle stick or wax-tipped tool. You can add more glue at the base of the gem for added strength. This method is strong enough to hold even the largest gems in place.
When using gel nail polish, apply the gel and crystals directly over the cured colour or set acrylic. Use a thick, stiff gel to set the gem in place and ask your client to pivot their hand from side to side while curing under a lamp. This will allow the light to cure the gel around the crystals.
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Placement: Place gems closer to the cuticle for more stability
When applying gems to gel nails, placement is key. Veteran nail artist Gina Silvestro recommends placing gems closer to the cuticle, as this area of the nail plate doesn't flex, providing a more stable surface for the gems. This ensures that the gems stay put and don't snag on things as the nail grows out.
To achieve this stable placement, start by applying a thin layer of gel nail polish around the cuticles. Cure the polish under a UV or LED lamp for the recommended time. Then, use a gel top coat or rhinestone adhesive in the desired location of the gem. Pick up the gem using a wax pencil, tweezers, or a cuticle stick with a small amount of blu-tac, and place it onto the glue. Gently press the gem to secure it, and be careful not to get the gem wet.
For larger gems, it is important to ensure they are securely attached. Use a firm yet flexible gem gel, applying a generous amount so the gel can grip around the crystal and act as an anchor. Use a brush, dotting tool, or wax-tipped gem wand to pick up the gem and press it into the gel.
After placing the gems, seal them in with a thin layer of gel top coat around the gems, being careful not to apply the top coat directly on top of the gems, as this can dull their sparkle. Cure the nails under a UV/LED lamp to set the rhinestones.
With proper placement and application, rhinestones and gems can stay secure on gel nails for weeks.
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Application: Use a wax pencil, tweezers or a toothpick to pick up and place gems
When applying gems to gel nails, you can use a wax pencil, tweezers, or a toothpick to pick up and place the gems. If you are using a wax pencil, it is important to keep it sharpened with a nail file or to replace the heads regularly to ensure it stays in optimum condition for picking up gems.
If you are using a toothpick, you can use it to grab a small amount of adhesive and spread it thinly on the flat back of the gem. Then, gently press and release the gem onto the nail surface in your desired placement.
If you are using tweezers, you can use them to pick up and place the gems onto the glue. You can also use tweezers to place the gem into the gel, pressing it into the gel so it grips around the base.
Other tools that can be used to pick up and place gems include a cuticle stick, an orange stick, or a plastic stick with a rubber bit on the end.
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Top coat: Apply a thin layer of top coat around the gems to seal them in place
Applying a top coat is the final step in securing your gems on gel nails. It is important to work quickly, as you need the gems to stick before the top coat dries.
Firstly, apply a thin layer of top coat around the gems, being careful not to apply it directly on top of the gems, as this can dull their shine. You can use a small nail art brush to carefully apply the top coat around the base of each gem.
If you are using nail glue, make sure it is completely dry before applying the top coat. If you are using gel polish, cure the nails under a UV or LED lamp for the recommended time, which will vary depending on the manufacturer.
Once the top coat is applied, your gems should be securely in place. With proper application, gems can stay on gel nails for weeks.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several methods to add gems to gel nails. One way is to use a gel top coat as an adhesive for gems. Apply a small dot of top coat to the desired location and place the gem on top. Then, add a thin layer of gel top coat around the gem to seal it in place. Cure the nails under a UV/LED lamp to set the gems.
Flat-backed gems are recommended as they will adhere best. Glass or synthetic crystals are typically more sparkly and durable, but they are more expensive.
You will need a wax pencil, tweezers, or a cuticle stick to pick up and place the gems onto the glue. You can also use a gel or resin to fill in the gaps after curing.
