Liam Carter
The nail care industry has evolved over the years, with nail professionals taking centre stage. From an afterthought, nails have become the focal point of the beauty industry, with nail art gaining prominence. The history of nail care dates back millennia, with ancient civilisations like the Egyptians using henna and royalty painting their nails black and red to indicate social status. In the 20th century, artificial glue-on nails became popular, and the industry has since grown, with acrylics, gel polishes, and innovative products shaping nail care trends.
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What You'll Learn
The nail industry's evolution
The nail industry has evolved significantly over the centuries, from ancient practices to modern trends. Here is an overview of its evolution:
Ancient Times to the 1900s
Nail care and decoration have been practised for millennia, dating back to ancient civilisations like Egypt and Babylonia. In ancient Egypt, royalty used red nail polish to signify their high social status, while military commanders painted their nails to match their lips before going into battle. Henna, a brownish-red substance, was used for manicures in India and was believed to stimulate nail growth and offer medicinal benefits. In Babylonia, the nobility used solid gold tools for manicures and pedicures. In China, long nails were considered a symbol of wealth and status, while shorter nails painted with vivid colours indicated the same.
In the 16th century, the invention of nail polish led to the evolution of trends, incorporating both colour and ornate patterns. By the early 1900s, manicure implements were considered works of art, with advertisements offering tools made of finely tempered steel and handles of exquisite materials like pearl and ivory.
The 1920s to 1950s
During the 1920s, screen stars favoured a natural, waif-like look with short hair and unpolished nails. However, the development of automotive paint during this time paved the way for modern nail enamels. In 1925, a sheer, rosy red nail polish sparked the trend of the "moon manicure," where polish was applied to the pink portion of the nail bed, leaving the free edge and lunula bare.
In the 1950s, nail care classes focused on basic manicure techniques, and manicures were often provided as a secondary service by hairdressers. Spray-on polish dryers and the first nail wrap system, the Juliette Manicure, were introduced during this decade. Celebrities endorsed the Juliette Manicure as a "natural nail enhancement," skyrocketing its popularity.
The 1970s to 1990s
The 1970s saw the rise of artificial nails as a symbol of wealth and luxury. Long, thick, and opaque artificial nails became popular, with hundreds of polish colours available. Acrylic nails were introduced to the American market during this decade.
In the 1980s and 1990s, performers like Coko from SWV and Janet Jackson sported bejewelled, flamboyant acrylic nails, pushing back against Eurocentric beauty expectations. Hip-hop artists like Missy Elliott and Lil' Kim also influenced nail trends during this time, with their acrylics featuring hand-painted designs, piercings, and bling.
Modern Era
Today, the nail industry is a significant part of the beauty economy, generating billions for the UK economy alone. Technology has transformed the industry, with advancements like long-lasting gel polishes and innovative systems from brands like CND and OPI. Social media has also played a crucial role, with nail artists gaining stardom and viral nail looks inspiring trends worldwide. The pandemic further highlighted the importance of nail services and the self-care experience that comes with visiting a salon.
Looking forward, the nail industry is expected to continue evolving with trends influenced by culture, fashion, and individual expression. Chrome, metallic, holographic, and glow-in-the-dark nails are gaining popularity, along with nail art inspired by African wax prints and vintage floral patterns. The demand for vegan and cruelty-free nail care products is also rising, with consumers seeking innovative, durable, and self-applicable options.
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Nail art history
The history of nail art is a rich tapestry that dates back millennia, encompassing complex social codes, cultural appropriation, modern slavery, and sexism. From ancient Egypt to modern-day celebrities like Cardi B, nail art has played a significant role in self-expression, beauty standards, and even social status.
In ancient Egypt, royalty used red nail polish to signify their high social status, while military commanders painted their nails to match their lips before going into battle. The use of henna, a brownish-red substance, for manicures also spread from Egypt to the Middle East and India, where it remains popular. In China, long nails were considered a symbol of wealth and status, as those with long nails were unable to perform manual tasks, indicating their wealth and ability to hire help.
In the 16th century, with the invention of nail polish, trends evolved beyond colour to include ornate patterns. By the 20th century, artificial glue-on nails became popular for those who couldn't or didn't want to grow their natural nails long. In the 1970s, acrylic nails arrived in America, with Phyllis Monier introducing her Nike line of acrylic powder and liquid in Chicago. Celebrities like Donyale Luna, Glodean White, Coko from SWV, and Janet Jackson sported bejewelled, flamboyant acrylic nails, pushing back against Eurocentric beauty standards and creating their own language of beauty.
Hip-hop artists in the 1990s, like Missy Elliott and Lil' Kim, donned acrylics with hand-painted designs, piercings, and bling, inspiring many viral nail art trends on social media today. Nail artists like Chaun Legend, Mei Kawajiri, and Betina Goldstein have elevated manicures to an art form, with clients including celebrities.
Today, the nail industry continues to innovate with gel nails, chrome or metallic nails, holographic nails, and even glow-in-the-dark nails. The trend of nail art inspired by culture and fashion shows no signs of slowing down, with individuals expressing their unique styles and personalities through their nail designs.
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Nail care in ancient civilisations
The history of nail care is a rich one, with practices dating back to ancient civilisations like Egypt, China, Greece, and Rome. In these societies, nail care played a significant role in shaping individual appearance and social perceptions, with various methods of nail grooming and decoration employed.
Ancient Egypt
In ancient Egypt, nail care was of great importance. The colouring of nails was common, with the ruling class wearing rich red hues while the lower classes were restricted to pale tones. Egyptian military leaders spent several hours before each battle having their nails painted, often to match their lips. Archaeological digs have unearthed manicure sets containing clippers and scissors made of solid gold, indicating the significance of nail care in ancient Egyptian culture.
Ancient China
Nail care in ancient China was a means of personal grooming and a reflection of social status, cultural values, and aesthetic preferences. Both women and men engaged in grooming practices, with women using oils and powders to care for their nails. The practice of "finger dipping" originated in China, where people would dip their fingers in dye to signify their rank within the rigid social hierarchy.
Ancient Greece and Rome
In ancient Greece and Rome, nail care was considered an essential aspect of personal hygiene and physical appearance. It was common for both men and women to keep their nails relatively short and neatly trimmed, as long nails were associated with manual labour and were considered unfashionable among the upper classes. Some individuals adorned their nails with simple decorations, using natural pigments or dyes to add colour or employing basic nail art techniques. Nail care tools were often made from materials such as bronze, ivory, or bone, reflecting an individual's social status and wealth.
During the Middle Ages in Europe, nail care declined as long nails were associated with manual labour. However, royalty and nobility continued to maintain their nails, and cleanliness was paramount. Special tools, such as metal nail cleaners and scrapers, were used to ensure nails remained presentable.
In ancient civilisations, nail care was intimately connected to social status and refinement. The evolution of nail care practices over the centuries reflects the changing cultural values and societal norms of each era.
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The impact of technology
Technology has transformed the nail industry and will continue to do so. Recent advances include CND's PLEXIGEL 3+ week system and OPI's Velvet Vision gel effect. The nail industry has also benefited from aerosol technology, which has led to spray-on polish dryers. The first nail wrap system was introduced by Juliette Marglen and sold in sheets bundled into matchbook-like packaging. The product is trimmed to cover only the top third of the nail and became popular after celebrities endorsed it as a "natural nail enhancement".
In the 1970s, acrylics arrived in America, with Phyllis Monier introducing her Nike line of acrylic powder and liquid in Chicago. Artificial nails became a sign of wealth and luxury, and nail technicians used cigarette and perm papers reinforced with airplane glue to strengthen nails.
Nail art has a long history, dating back to ancient Egypt, where henna was used to adorn the hands of royalty and dancers with elaborate designs. The use of henna also spread to the Middle East, India, and China, where the growing and painting of nails were considered symbols of wealth and status. In ancient Egypt and Rome, military commanders were known to paint their nails to match their lips before going into battle.
In the 16th century, with the invention of nail polish, trends evolved to include not just colour but also ornate patterns. The development of automotive paint in the 1920s further paved the way for today's nail enamels.
In the 20th century, different styles of manicures emerged, and artificial glue-on nails became popular for those who could not or did not want to grow their natural nails long. Hip-hop artists in the 1990s, such as Missy Elliot and Lil' Kim, donned acrylics with hand-painted designs, piercings, and bling, inspiring many of the looks that go viral on social media today.
The pandemic hit the nail industry hard, with salons shuttered and professionals forced to pivot. During the shutdown, nail artists focused on education and social media, emphasising the importance of the salon experience and self-care.
The demand for time-saving and durable nail care products that reduce salon visits is increasing, especially in emerging markets. Brands are responding by developing innovative, long-lasting products that promote self-application and vegan, cruelty-free, and herbal options.
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The future of the industry
The nail care industry has evolved over millennia, from the use of henna in ancient Egypt and India to the modern-day gel polishes and acrylic nails. While the industry was hit hard by the pandemic, it also highlighted the importance of nail services and the experience of visiting a salon for self-care.
The nail care industry is expected to continue growing, with a projected increase of 7% globally over the next decade. This growth will be driven by emerging markets, where there is a demand for time-saving and durable products that reduce salon visits. Consumers are increasingly seeking innovative, long-lasting products that promote self-application and are vegan and cruelty-free. Brands are responding to this demand by investing in research and development for new products that cater to these needs.
Nail art will continue to be influenced by culture and fashion, with trends such as chrome or metallic nails, holographic nails, and glow-in-the-dark nails gaining popularity. Acrylic nails, which first appeared in the 1970s, are being replaced by gel nails, which offer a longer-lasting finish and require less effort to remove.
The industry will also continue to be shaped by social media, with nail artists gaining recognition and influencing trends. Additionally, the growing popularity of maximalism in fashion will likely impact nail trends, with bold colours and unique textures taking centre stage.
While technology will continue to push the boundaries of the industry, the care and attention given by nail professionals to their clients remain a constant. The nail care industry is expected to adapt to new trends and innovations while also meeting the changing needs and expectations of consumers.
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Frequently asked questions
The nail care industry has been around for more than 5000 years.
In ancient Babylonia, nobility used solid gold tools for manicures and pedicures. In ancient Egypt, royalty painted their nails red, which designated the highest social status. Military commanders in ancient Egypt and Rome painted their nails to match their lips before going into battle.
In the 1920s, screen stars favoured a waif-like look with short hair and slender figures. Nails were still unpolished, but the development of automotive paint paved the way for today's nail enamels. In the 1950s, nail care classes focused on basic manicure techniques. In the 1970s, artificial nails gained popularity as a sign of wealth and luxury.
Acrylic nails appeared on the market in the 1970s and have grown in popularity over the years. Gel nails have become popular in recent years as they provide a longer-lasting finish, are easy to apply, and can be removed with minimal effort.
