Caleb Foster
Gel nail polish is a type of nail polish that is cured with a UV or LED lamp to create a shiny, long-lasting manicure. Unlike regular nail polish, gel nail polish does not dry by solvent evaporation but by polymerization triggered by light. This results in a strong, flexible, glossy finish that is chip-free and long-lasting. The process of curing gel nail polish involves the polymerization of small molecules called monomers, which join together to form long chains, known as polymers. The UV light activates photoinitiators, which are added to the gel formula, and these absorb the light and split into radicals that kick-start polymerization. The interconnected polymer network gives gels their chip resistance and staying power.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Removal | Requires slight pressure, acetone soak, or gel remover |
| Durability | Long-lasting, chip-resistant, scratch-resistant |
| Application | Painted on like regular polish, but cured under a UV or LED lamp |
| Composition | Acrylic polymers, hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA), di-HEMA trimethyl-hexyl dicarbamate, methacrylates, oligomers, photoinitiators, monomers, rheology modifiers, preservatives, solvents, pigments |
| Results | Smooth, high-gloss shine, even coverage, vivid and intense colour, flexible, glossy finish |
| Aftercare | Avoid washing dishes or using cleaning products without gloves, use cuticle oil regularly |
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What You'll Learn
The science behind gel nail polish
Gel nail polish is formulated with various ingredients, including hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) and di-HEMA trimethyl-hexyl dicarbamate, which contribute to the cross-linking of polymer chains. This interconnected polymer network gives gel polishes their chip resistance and longevity. The viscosity of gel polishes can vary, from thin polishes for colour coats to thick builder gels used for creating 3D nail designs.
The application process for gel nail polish is similar to that of traditional nail polish. However, gel polish requires curing under a UV or LED lamp to harden and adhere to the nails properly. This curing process typically takes between 30 seconds and two minutes per layer, resulting in a strong, flexible, glossy finish that resists chipping and scratching for up to three weeks.
Unlike traditional nail polish, which dries through solvent evaporation, gel nail polish relies on light-triggered polymerization to harden. This makes gel manicures more durable and less prone to smudging, smearing, or denting compared to regular nail polish. The gel formula also allows for deeper pigment saturation, resulting in more vivid and intense colours that resist fading and yellowing over time.
To remove gel nail polish, slight pressure is usually sufficient, and products like CND Shellac offer base coats that don't require shine removal. However, it's important to note that gel manicures can be hard on natural nails, potentially making them weak or thin with frequent use. Overall, the science behind gel nail polish involves a complex interplay of chemistry and light activation, resulting in a long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing manicure.
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How to apply gel nail polish
Applying gel nail polish is a simple process, but it does require some preparation and a few key tools. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to apply gel nail polish:
Prepare Your Nails:
Start by gathering your supplies, including a nail polish remover, manicure set, gel base and top coat, gel cleanser, UV or LED lamp, and gel colour polish. Remove any previous nail polish with nail varnish remover. Use a cuticle softener to loosen the cuticles, and then gently push them back using the curved side of a nail file or an orangewood cuticle stick. This provides a clean surface for the gel polish to adhere to and creates a more even-looking nail bed.
Shape Your Nails:
Use a nail file to shape your nails to the desired length and shape. A medium grit file is ideal for natural nails, while a finer grit, such as 180 grit, is better for gel nails. File in one direction to avoid splitting the nail and always file gently to avoid thinning the nail plate.
Buff Your Nails:
Gently buff the surface of your nails to create a smooth and even canvas for the gel polish. Pay particular attention to the sides of your nails and the area around the cuticles to prevent lifting. Remove any dust or residue with a lint-free wipe and gel nail polish remover.
Apply the Base Coat:
Apply a thin coat of the gel base coat to your nails, capping the free edge. Leave a small gap between the gel polish and your cuticle to avoid any skin contact. The base coat should be slightly sticky after curing to ensure better adhesion for the following layer. Cure the base coat under a UV or LED lamp according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically for about 60 seconds.
Apply the Colour Coat:
Apply 2-3 thin coats of your chosen gel colour polish, capping the free edge and curing each coat under the lamp for 60 seconds. Again, the colour coat should remain slightly sticky to allow better adhesion for the next layer. If you're using a magnetic colour coat, hover the magnet over your nails before curing to create unique designs.
Apply the Top Coat:
Finish with a thin coat of the gel top coat, capping the free edge once more. Cure this final layer under the lamp for 60 seconds. The top coat will provide a glossy shine and protect your manicure.
Remove Any Residue:
If desired, remove the sticky inhibition layer by gently wiping your nails with a lint-free wipe moistened with gel nail polish remover. This will leave your nails with a smooth and glossy finish.
Maintain Your Gel Manicure:
Gel manicures can last for up to two weeks or more without chipping. However, it's important to note that gel manicures can be drying to your nails, cuticles, and surrounding skin. To maintain healthy nails, regularly apply cuticle oil to keep the skin and nail plate moisturised. Additionally, always use a UV gel manicure glove to protect your hands from the UV light used during curing.
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How to remove gel nail polish
There are several methods for removing gel nail polish. The traditional method involves using acetone, cotton balls, and foil. First, use a coarse nail file to buff the top layer of the nail, removing the shiny coating of the gel polish. Then, soak a cotton ball in acetone and place it on the nail. Wrap the nail with foil to hold the cotton ball in place. Leave this on for 10-15 minutes, then gently push the gel polish off each nail with a metal cuticle pusher or orangewood stick. Finally, gently buff your nails to smooth out ridges and remove any remaining polish.
Another method is to use a gel nail polish remover. First, use a coarse nail file to buff the top layer of the nail. Then, apply a thick layer of gel polish remover to your nails and wait 5 minutes. The edges of the gel polish should start to peel, crack, or bubble. Use a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick to gently push off the gel polish. Finally, clean your nails with a nail buffer.
It's important to note that gel nail polish can be tough on your nails and skin, so it's recommended to use cuticle oil to keep your nails and cuticles hydrated and healthy. Additionally, gel nail polish should be removed carefully to avoid damage to the nails. One way to avoid this is to simply let your nails grow out and clip them once a week to remove the gel nail polish.
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The difference between gel nail polish and regular nail polish
The main difference between gel nail polish and regular nail polish is in their chemical composition and how they are applied and removed.
Regular nail polish is based mostly on nitrocellulose and hardens after solvent evaporation. It is painted on and left to air dry. It can dent, smudge, and peel within days.
Gel nail polish, on the other hand, is based on acrylic polymers. The polymerization is triggered by light, typically from a UV or LED lamp. The monomers in the gel link up into polymer chains, creating a strong, chip-resistant, and long-lasting manicure. Gels can vary in viscosity and come in different forms, including thin polish for colour coats, thick builder gels, and mouldable gels for 3D nail designs.
When it comes to removal, regular nail polish can be removed with a standard nail polish remover. In contrast, removing gel nail polish requires more effort and can be a lengthy process. The shiny layer of the gel polish must be removed, and then the nails are soaked in acetone, either with foils or using the double boiler method.
In terms of durability, gel nail polish is known for its long-lasting finish, with some claiming it can last up to three weeks without chipping. Regular nail polish, on the other hand, typically lasts only 2-7 days before needing a touch-up.
It is worth noting that gel nail polish can be harder on your natural nails, potentially making them weak or thin if used frequently. Additionally, the removal process can be damaging to the nails, leaving them dehydrated.
Ultimately, the choice between gel and regular nail polish depends on personal preferences and lifestyle. If you like to change your nail colour frequently, regular nail polish might be more suitable. If you're looking for a long-lasting, chip-resistant manicure and are willing to put in the extra effort for removal, gel nail polish could be the better option.
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Pros and cons of gel nail polish
Gel nail polish is a popular choice for those who want stronger, longer-lasting nails. The polish is cured under UV or LED lamps, creating a hard, chip-resistant manicure with a glossy finish. The formula also resists fading and yellowing, allowing the colour to last for weeks.
Pros of Gel Nail Polish:
- Long-lasting: Gel nail polish can last for 2-3 weeks without chipping or scratching, compared to regular polish which may only last 2-7 days.
- Quick-drying: Unlike regular nail polish, gel polish dries quickly under UV or LED light, with no risk of smudging or denting.
- Flexible: Gel polish is more flexible than acrylics, reducing the risk of tearing at the nail bed.
- Natural look and feel: Gel nail polish is designed to mimic the look and feel of natural nails, making it a popular choice for those who want stronger, longer-lasting nails.
- Rich colour: The gel formula allows for deeper, richer pigment saturation, resulting in more vivid and intense colours.
Cons of Gel Nail Polish:
- Dehydration: The removal process can be tricky and may require slight pressure or soaking in acetone. This can dehydrate the nails, and they may need time to recover.
- Nail damage: Some people find that their nails become weak or thin after frequent gel manicures. This is because nails need access to air and cannot be constantly covered with polish.
- Limited designs: Solid gel nail polish does not have the same movement or self-levelling properties as traditional gel polish, making it less suitable for nuanced designs.
- Cost: Gel nail polish services and products can be more expensive than regular nail polish, and may require additional purchases such as a UV lamp.
Overall, gel nail polish is a popular choice for those who want long-lasting, chip-resistant nails. However, it is important to consider the potential cons, such as dehydration and nail damage, and take proper care of your nails during and after the manicure process.
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Frequently asked questions
Gel nail polish is thicker than ordinary nail polish and does not dry naturally. It needs to be cured under a UV or LED lamp. It is more flexible and resistant to chipping or smudging.
Gel nail polish is comprised of stronger ingredients that grasp the nail tighter than traditional lacquers. It is cured under a UV or LED lamp to activate the chemical process that dries each coat of gel polish.
Gel nail polish is long-lasting, quick-drying, and resistant to chipping. It also has a glossy finish.
Gel nail polish requires extra products such as a lamp and a whole new system of polish. It is also more difficult to remove than regular nail polish.
There are no harmful effects on natural nails when using gel polish. However, it is recommended to allow nails to rest between applications to restore the nail beds.
