Isla Bennett
Gel nail fills are a great way to save time and money by avoiding the need to fully remove and redo gel nails. The process involves filing down the existing gel polish, addressing cuticle growth, and then filling in the grown-out area with new gel polish. It is important to use the right tools and products, such as a builder gel, to ensure the fill looks clean and lasts for several weeks. This process can be done at home or in a salon, and it helps to strengthen nails and prevent breakage.
How to do a fill on gel nails
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| First step | File the nail to remove the shine from the gel. Use a coarse file (180) or an electric nail file. |
| Next step | Move to a softer file to gently go over your natural nail and remove any product that is lifting. |
| Prepping the nails | Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, trim any dead skin, and neaten up your nails. |
| Next step | Dehydrate your nail surface and apply a primer. |
| Infill with gel | Depending on your gel system, apply a base gel and then a builder gel. Start at the cuticle area and place the gel carefully on the nail, dragging it up to the tip. |
| Benefits of using builder gel | You can build an apex on your nail, which is the stress area of your nail, giving your nails extra strength and protecting your natural nail. |
| Benefits of filling | Filling your nails instead of fully removing the gel every time prevents over-prepping of your natural nail, keeping them strong and allowing them to grow longer. |
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What You'll Learn
Prepping your nails
Step 1: File Down Existing Gel Polish
Use a nail file to remove the top coat and some of the gel polish. Start with a coarse file (180-grit) and work in a back-and-forth motion, applying enough pressure to remove the gel without filing your natural nail or the surrounding skin. You can use an electric nail file or a hand file for this step.
Step 2: Cuticle Care
After a few weeks, your cuticles will likely have grown back, which can cause the polish to lift and peel. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. Trim any dead white skin with cuticle nippers, being careful only to cut dead skin and not live skin to prevent infections.
Step 3: Buffing
Buffing creates a rough surface on the nail, which helps the gel adhere better and ensures your manicure lasts longer. Use a buffer block and work in back-and-forth motions, being careful not to over-buff your natural nails as this can cause damage or thinning.
Step 4: Clean Nails
Use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust and dirt from the nail surface. Then, wipe down the nail plate with a nail prep solution to remove any remaining dust, dirt, or oils before applying the new gel.
Step 5: Dehydrate Nails
Dehydrating your nails helps with the bonding of the gel to the natural nail. Use a nail prep dehydrator and simply glide it onto your nails, then leave it to air dry.
Step 6: Apply Primer
After dehydrating your nails, apply a primer to further enhance the bonding of the gel to your natural nail.
By following these steps, you will properly prep your nails for a gel fill, ensuring a smooth and long-lasting manicure.
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Filing the nail
When using an electric file, be careful not to touch your natural nail. Using a builder gel can help with this, as it allows you to build up the apex of your nail, which is the stress area. This gives your nails extra strength and also protects your natural nail from the electric file.
Once you are satisfied that most of the gel has been filed down, you can move on to cuticle care and prep. After a few weeks of wearing gel nails, your cuticles will likely have grown back, which can cause the polish to lift and peel. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. You should also trim any dead white skin to neaten up your nails, but be careful not to cut live skin, as this can cause infections.
After prepping your cuticles, you will need to buff your nails. Buffing creates a rough texture, which gives the gel better adhesion to the nail plate. Use a buffer block and move it in back-and-forth motions. Be careful not to over-buff your natural nails, as this can damage or thin your nail plate. Once you've finished buffing, use a lint-free nail wipe to remove any dust and wipe down the nail plate with a prep solution to remove any remaining dust, dirt, and oils before applying your gel.
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Applying the gel
After filing and shaping the nail, it's time to apply the gel. The first step is to dehydrate the nail. This can be done with a product like Mylee Nail Prep Dehydrator, which you simply glide onto your nails and leave to air dry. Next, use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. Any dead skin can then be trimmed away, but it's important to only trim dead skin and avoid cutting live skin, which can cause infection.
Now, you can begin to apply the gel. Depending on your gel system, you may need to apply a base gel first and then a builder gel. Starting at the cuticle area, carefully place the gel on the nail and drag it up to the tip. Once the whole nail is covered, add some more gel to the middle of the nail and let it float. This will create a nice curve and help with the structure.
If you are using a builder gel, you can build an apex on your nail. The apex is the stress area of the nail, so adding builder gel here will give your nails extra strength and protect your natural nail. To apply the builder gel, paint on a slip layer (without curing it), add a bead of polish on top, and let it self-level or use a brush to shape the apex.
It's important to note that not all gel products are suitable for fills. A thin hybrid gel like shellac is not ideal, as it is not designed to stay on the nails for an extended period. Instead, opt for a gel meant to be worn for a long time, such as the Nail Thoughts tinted builder base.
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Using a builder gel
Builder gel is a popular type of nail product that is used to create strong and durable nails. It is often used to create nail extensions and overlays. The process of filling in your nails with builder gel involves hiding the part of your natural nail that has grown out. After about two to three weeks, your nails will have grown out and may be exposed next to your cuticles.
To fill in your nails with builder gel, start by filing down the surface of your gel nails to roughen the surface. Then, apply primer to the exposed natural nail. You can also apply cuticle oil to the base of your nails to moisturize the skin around them and keep them healthy.
Next, apply a base coat to your nails. It is important to choose a base coat that is compatible with builder gel. After applying the base coat, use a brush to gently fill in the missing areas of the nail with builder gel until the surface is even and smooth. Remember to apply the builder gel in thin layers, allowing each layer to cure before applying the next.
Once the builder gel is applied and cured, buff the nails until they are smooth and polished. Finally, apply colour and a top coat to add shine and protect your nails from chips or cracks.
Builder gel can be filled when needed, allowing for longer wear and maintenance of a beautiful and polished nail appearance.
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Aftercare and maintenance
The aftercare and maintenance of gel nails are crucial to ensure the longevity and aesthetics of your manicure. Here are some detailed instructions to help you maintain your gel nails:
Cuticle Care: After a few weeks of wearing gel nails, your cuticles will likely grow back, which can cause the polish to lift and peel. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin, being firm but not too harsh. It is important to only trim any dead white skin and avoid cutting live skin to prevent bacterial infections.
Buffing: Buffing is an essential step to create a rough surface for the gel to adhere to. Use a buffer block with back-and-forth motions, being careful not to over-buff your natural nails, which can lead to thinning or damage.
Dehydration: Before applying new gel, it is crucial to dehydrate your nail surface. Use a nail prep dehydrator and glide it onto your nails, allowing them to air dry. This step ensures that the gel adheres properly and helps extend the wear time of your manicure.
Apex Creation: When using builder gel, focus on creating an apex, which is the stress area of your nail. This step adds strength and dimension to your nails while protecting your natural nail from any filing or buffing.
Nail Filing: When filing your nails, use a coarse file to remove the shine from the gel. Be cautious to only file the gel and not your natural nail. You can use an electric nail file or a hand file for this step.
Gel Application: Depending on your gel system, you may need to apply a base gel first, followed by a builder gel. Start at the cuticle area and carefully drag the gel up to the tip of your nail. Apply additional gel to the middle of your nail to create a nice curve and reinforce the stress point.
Remember, proper aftercare and maintenance will help your gel nails stay strong and healthy while allowing them to grow longer without breakage.
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Frequently asked questions
Filling gel nails is a way to save time and money by not having to remove the entire gel polish. The process involves filing down the existing gel polish, addressing the cuticles, buffing the nails, and then filling in the nail growth with new gel.
You will need a nail file, a cuticle pusher, a nail buffer, a lint-free nail wipe, a nail dehydrator, and a gel polish of your choice.
Use a back-and-forth motion with the nail file, applying enough pressure to remove the gel without damaging your natural nail. Only file down about 80-90% of the gel polish, leaving a thin base layer for the new polish to grip on to.
After filing, you will need to address your cuticles. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push back the skin and trim any dead skin. Then, buff the nails to create a rough texture that will help the new gel polish adhere better. Finish by wiping down the nail plate with a lint-free wipe to remove any dust, dirt, and oils.
It is recommended to use a builder gel or a gel meant to be worn for extended periods. These gels provide extra strength and protection to your natural nails.
